Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

How to get Canistel tree to produce
without dropping flowers and fruit

Q: My Canistel tree is 3 1/2 years old and is growing very well, see the picture below. It gets hundreds of pea sized "berries" but then they fall off. No canistel fruit. What's wrong?

A: You have such a nice looking tree, it is a shame you can't get any fruit to ripen.
In our experience, Pouteria trees dropping fruit prematurely is a very common problem. There may be one of the following reasons, or a combination of them:
- Cold winters may affect production, and while Canistel is generally pretty hardy tropical plant that can easily withstand short periods of chill, the fruit may never form properly if it had a cold winter.
- Lack of water. Canistel tree is pretty drought tolerant, but for the proper production cycle it needs regular irrigation. Especially during hot summer.
- The tree may be not strong enough; young trees drop fruit very often when they don't have enough "fruiting energy" built up in their system.
Your tree looks well established and vigorous, however, flower/fruit drop is often a sign of insufficient nutrients of particular kind, usually Boron (B) and/or Molybdenum (Mo): either when a tree is too young and not strong enough, or because of poor soils and lack of necessary elements.

Here is what can be done, considering you live in a warm, frost-free climate.

1. Provide regular fertilizing program. We recommend liquid fertilizers Sunshine Boosters that are safe to use with every watering and year around. It is beneficial to switch plants from traditional "slow-release" fertilizer to the liquid one because it makes a huge difference in plant growth and flower/fruit quality and quantity. See also:
- Why liquid fertilizers are better than dry
- Article about benefits of liquid fertilizers.

Use this plant food for your Canistel tree:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster

2. Apply micro-element remedies that are very effective for improving fruit production, especially when flower or fruit drop occurs:

SUNSHINE Honey - promotes more efficient blossoming and pollination, makes flowers bigger and reduces bud drop.
SUNSHINE SuperFood - improves plant vigor and quality and size of flowers These are all natural, eco-friendly supplements that work great for fruit trees and other edibles.

🏡 To Use Your Garden Or Be Used By It

Smokey and Sunshine November Planting.

Smokey: Winter roots make spring easy. Keep that plant straight.
Sunshine: I am keeping it straight by not touching it at all.
Smokey: That is exactly what I was afraid of.

November is the month when the garden finally stops yelling at you. The heat backs off, the bugs calm down, and the weeds take a breath. This is when we get to take control again. And as gardeners, we know the truth: Either you use your garden, or your garden will use you in spring. Let me walk you through this, gardener to gardener.

"November is when the garden finally listens. Give it a little direction now, shape it, guide it, and prepare it for spring. It will reward you all year." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

🌴 When The Garden Uses You

We have all lived this scene:

• March weeds appear, and two days later it looks like a jungle.
• One missed watering turns into five wilted plants and a full week of recovery.
• A skipped feeding shows up as yellow leaves and panic searching online.
• Bugs return fast, and suddenly you are washing leaves every other day.
• Random plant purchases fill your yard with chaos and mismatched care needs.
• When the garden takes control, spring feels like hard work, not joy.

Overgrown Tropical Garden Showing How a Garden Can Use You

📊 When You Use Your Garden

November flips the script. Plants slow down. Soil stays warm. This is the safest month to experiment, move plants, fix mistakes, and redesign.

What you do now pays off huge in March.

• You map out sun zones and shade zones.
• You mulch now so weeds do not explode later.
• You move plants to better positions without heat stress.
• You remove the high-drama plants before they start another season of complaints.
• You pick what you want for next year instead of letting impulse buys rule you.

Spring becomes smooth instead of overwhelming. And honestly? It feels good to walk outside in March and see order instead of chaos.

In the photo: Every garden starts in small steps. Biquinho Pepper (front) in the garden.

What Benefit Do You Get Personally?

• Less watering.
• Fewer bugs.
• Bigger fruit.
• Better flowering.
• Less money wasted.
• Less time fixing problems you could have prevented now.

This is why experienced tropical gardeners adore November.

In the photo: Organized Tropical Garden. Firebush (lemon gold variety) and Cordylines (Ti Leaf) make colorful spots in the garden.

🐭 Start With Something Small Today (5 Minutes)

Pick one:

• Add mulch to the driest spot in your yard.
• Cut one dead branch from any tree.
• Move one pot to a better sun angle.
• Pull three weeds from the worst area.
• Water deeply once this week.

Small steps now save hours later.

⭐ One Short Story

Last year we planted a Star Fruit in November. By March, it was already covered in flowers, and have been harvesting fruit non-stop since then! That is what winter planning does: it gives plants a head start you can actually see.

🐍 Plants That Will Use You If You Let Them

These are great plants, but only if you plan before planting them:

• Banana (thirsty)
• Hibiscus (hungry)
• Brugmansia (sensitive)
• Passion vine (takes over anything it touches)

Place them wrong, and they become full-time jobs.

In the photo: Passion Vine taking over the swing.

🐰 Plants That Work For You

These feel like free upgrades to the yard:

• Moringa - grows almost on autopilot
• Star Fruit - continuous production
• Dragon Fruit - minimal effort for big results
• Cattley Guava - cold hardy, compact and fruitful
• Loquat - fast fruiting and hardy
• Mulberry - very cold hardy with fruit abundance
• Tabebuia - spectacular winter colors
• Brunfelsia - reliable night fragrance in shade
• Adenium - perfect container showstopper
• Jasmine - instant fragrance
• Mexican Flame Vine - fast growing yet controllable vine
• Wiri Wiri and Biquinho Peppers - always available for your kitchen
• Firebush, Hamelia - everblooming and hardy butterfly native
• Cordyline Ti Leaf - instant leaf colors
• Megaskepasma Brazilian plume - lush tropical foliage with red blooms in shade or sun
• Iris - hardy easy low-growing native for any soil
• Champaka, Joy Perfume Tree - legendary perfume tree that blooms almost year round
• Olive tree - maintenance-free source of olives
• Plumeria - instant Hawaiian perfume flowers all summer
• Dombeya - spectacular hydrangea-like blooms all winter
• Insulin Ginger - instant nature remedy
• Eugenia Cherries and Barbados Cherry - immediate fruit, compact trees for small gardens or pots
• Peanut Butter tree - exotic sweet fruit like peanut butter, compact tree
• Blackberry Jam fruit - exotic fruit like blackberry jam, very small tree
• Colocasia - instant tropical look with Elephant ears
• Strawberry tree - sweet cotton-candy fruit year around
• Papaya - fits any yard, delicious fruit and natural digestive remedy

Pick even one of these and your garden starts giving back.

In the photo: Cattley Guava brings not only tasty fruit but also a wonderful character with its amazing multi-color twisted trunk.

🌡️ November Advantage

You cannot ruin anything in November. This is the safest, calmest month to shape your garden the way you want. If you act now, spring becomes a victory lap. If you wait, spring becomes a rescue mission.

In the photo: Adenium is a colorful accent in the garden.

💐 Thanksgiving Tie-In

This is the season to reset, breathe, and be thankful for your outdoor space. A garden that works for you is one of the best gifts you can give yourself going into the new year.

Start your November plan today. Use your garden. Do not let it use you.

In the photo: Megaskepasma, Iris, Colocasia, Crotons, Dracaena and Ti Leaf bring instant tropical look to your garden.

Shop Fruit trees

Shop Flowering shrubs

😾 When Orange Isn't a Good Thing

Smokey: Those orange spots are plumeria rust.
Sunshine: Orange is an excellent color.
Smokey: On cats, yes. On plumeria leaves, no.
Sunshine: I represent the good kind of orange.

🌸 Plumeria Rust in Humid Climates:
What Finally Worked for Us

By Tatiana Anderson, Plant Expert, Top Tropicals

If you grow plumerias in Florida, you probably know what comes next. Around June, when the rainy season begins and afternoon thunderstorms become part of the daily routine, orange-yellow spots start appearing on the undersides of plumeria leaves. Plumeria rust arrives almost like clockwork. If you have ever tried to fight it, you know how frustrating that battle can be.

Let me be clear about something right away: Plumeria rust is rarely fatal to an otherwise healthy plant.

In our experience, we have never lost a healthy plumeria to rust alone. The disease is mostly cosmetic, but it causes significant yellowing, triggers premature leaf drop, and can turn a beautiful specimen into something that looks ragged throughout the best months of the growing season. For a plant grown as much for its attractive foliage as its spectacular flowers, that matters.

At Top Tropicals, we have grown plumerias for many years and have tried most of the approaches gardeners typically recommend: sulfur-based fungicides, neem oil, copper sprays, improving drainage, and removing infected leaves before they hit the ground. Some of those things helped to varying degrees. None of them felt like a real breakthrough until recently.

The Fungicide That Actually Did Something

A few seasons ago, on the recommendation of another grower, we tried Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide . This biological fungicide contains the beneficial bacterium Bacillus sp, and I want to be careful here: I am not suggesting it is the best product for everyone or that it will produce the same results in every situation. What I can say is that, in our experience, it was the first fungicide that consistently produced visible improvement when applied according to the label directions.

We applied it at the first sign of rust, repeated applications according to the label, and actually saw the progression slow down while new infections became less severe. Whether that was the product, the timing, or some combination of factors, I cannot say with certainty. But after cycling through several options over the years, it was the one that felt like it was doing something real. If you are looking for a starting point, it is worth trying.

But the fungicide wasn't our main discovery. That came this past season, and it changed how we think about this disease.

☔️ What This Season Taught Us About Leaf Wetness

This season we moved our prized container plumerias under a covered growing area with a clear plastic roof and approximately 30 percent shade cloth overhead. The structure provides excellent light, warm temperatures, and very good air circulation while protecting the plants from Florida's frequent summer rains. It is not a climate-controlled greenhouse, but rather a protected outdoor growing area.

Here is the important part: these plants were still irrigated regularly, every two to four days, with overhead watering. The leaves did get wet. But because they were not sitting outside during Florida's daily summer downpours, the foliage dried within a reasonable amount of time instead of remaining wet for hours, which is common after a heavy rain followed by cloudy skies and still air.

The result? Not a single case of rust developed on those plants throughout the season. Considering how consistently plumeria rust appears each summer in our nursery, that result immediately caught our attention. The most significant difference was how long the foliage remained wet after watering or rain. Meanwhile, plumerias growing in the ground nearby, fully exposed to the weather, showed rust infection at the usual time.

💦 Ambient Humidity vs. Standing Water

That observation made us rethink what we believed was driving the disease. We had always assumed Florida's high humidity was the primary factor. Humidity certainly plays a role. But this experience suggested that prolonged leaf wetness may be a much more significant factor than ambient humidity by itself.

There is a real difference between air that feels humid and leaves that stay wet for four, six, or eight hours after a rain. Humid air means the moisture content of the atmosphere is high. Wet leaves means there is standing water on the leaf surface. Both conditions can occur together, but they are not the same thing. A leaf in a humid but breezy location can dry within an hour. A leaf in still, wet conditions after a heavy rain may stay wet most of the day. That difference may be far more important than many gardeners realize.

We are not plant pathologists, and we do not want to overstate what we learned from one growing season. But after many years of growing plumerias in Florida, the results were convincing enough that we now protect our best container specimens from prolonged summer rainfall whenever possible.

👉 What We Recommend

Based on many years of growing plumerias in Florida, here are the practices that have worked best for us:

• Grow plumerias in full sun whenever conditions allow. Good light means faster drying after rain or irrigation, and plants grown in low light often seem to show rust symptoms more readily.
• Keep your plumerias well-fed. Healthy, vigorously growing plants recover from stress and disease much better than weak ones. We apply Green Magic controlled-release fertilizer every six months for a steady supply of nutrients, and supplement with Sunshine Boosters Megaflor during the growing season. Because Megaflor is gentle, it can be safely applied with every watering, all year long.
• During extended rainy periods, consider moving valuable container plants under cover if possible. Even a covered patio can make a difference if it keeps the leaves from remaining wet for most of the day.
• Provide air circulation. Plants crowded together stay wet longer. Space them properly and position them where they receive good airflow.
• Remove infected fallen leaves. They can continue serving as a source of spores. Pick them up and dispose of them rather than leaving them beneath the plants.
• If rust begins to appear, start fungicide applications early. Slowing an infection at the beginning is much easier than trying to control one that is already well established.

💡 A Realistic Conclusion

Plumeria rust is mostly a cosmetic problem rather than a life-threatening one. Healthy plants usually recover well, but yellowing foliage and premature leaf drop can take much of the beauty out of an otherwise beautiful blooming season.

We cannot promise these methods will eliminate rust in every garden. Every growing environment is different. However, after years of battling this disease, reducing how long the leaves remain wet made a bigger difference than any other single change we have tried. If you grow plumerias in a humid climate and continue struggling with rust, it may be worth focusing not only on humidity itself, but also on how quickly the foliage dries after the rain stops.

📚 Plumerias in Top Tropicals Garden Blog

👉 Start your Plumeria collection

Sunshine: Healthy plumerias need sunshine... that's me... good airflow, and dry leaves.
Smokey: That's a surprisingly accurate summary.
Sunshine:We can help with all of that. Donut worry. Coffee first.