Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 19 Dec 2016

Update on SUNSHINE in a Bottle

Photos of our experiments. These tomato seedlings potted 4 weeks ago, and batch on the right treated with standard recommended dose of SUNSHINEâ„¢ twice (within one week period). They are setting buds and flowers, while untreated plants (batch on the left) have much slower growth rate and are still far from flowering.
See TTLaboratories website and order SUNSHINE boosters.

Date: 24 Oct 2016

Overwintering Adeniums outside of tropics

Q: We bought several adenium plants from you. We are moving to the Denver area of Colorado. How can we make sure the plants survive? Should we use a green house?

A: Adeniums are perfect container plants, and house plants. They can be easily grown outside of tropical climate. During winter, Adeniums drop leaves and go into dormancy which makes it easy to keep these plants in a dormant stage in a warm location of your house, or possibly even in well-lit spot of garage (with a window), with temperatures above 50-60F.
Here in South Florida, during time of cold, when chances of freeze are high, we move our own Adenium collection into lanai, with plastic sheet protection around lanai.

In colder climates, Adeniums can be kept indoors as house plants during winter. There are some requirements/tips for you:

  • Temperature. Move Adeniums indoors when temperature starts dropping below 45F.
  • SUNSHINE. Use SUNSHINE boosters to improve cold resistance of Adeniums, and essure healthy plant throughout winter. SUNSHINE-BC formula is specifically designed for plants with caudex, and bonsai.
  • Water. Reduce watering to minimum, especially when plants drop leaves - this means they went into dormancy. Once a week light watering is enough. Water very carefully during cooler months. When it is hot (85-100F), excessive water usually won't harm adeniums: it will be partially used by a plant, and partially will evaporate. Especially be careful with water when temperatures drop below 65F - then tropical plants simply stop growing process and go dormant. Once adeniums start losing leaves, this is a sign to reduce watering to once a week to once a month, and in very small quantity (couple tablespoons per pot).
  • Light. Bright light is not necessary, but do not keep them in dark either, even if all leaves dropped. Good light is necessary to maintain healthy stems and caudex. Keep in mind, the less light, the less watering too. Ideal spot is a windowsill, however if your space is limited and all windows occupied by other "leafy" plants, location close to window will be enough as long as watering is reduced, to avoid rot. We keep our big collection specimens on a roofed porch during winter, where level of light is very low. Last winter we haven't lost a single plant due to low light. They take shade pretty well considering minimum or no water. However bright light is always better - it creates healthier environment for a plant. We all know about space limitations for our large collections, especially in winter. So if you can afford a bright spot for adenium during winter - the plant will be lucky!
  • Soil. Use only well drained mix with much higher content of perlite than you would use for most tropical plants. For adeniums, we use mix with 30-40% of perlite in it, while regular mix has 10-15%. Adeniums like alkaline soil, unlike most of tropical plants (hard to say what else likes alkaline... Ficus for sure!). This means, regular mix with high content of peat moss may cause root rot. To increase alkalinity, you may add dolomite. Here in Florida where we have natural supply of shell rock handy, it is easy to add some shell to a potting mix (shell sand, rather than quartz sand). We always add a few large shells on top of a pots with a big specimen. Besides increasing soil pH (making it more alkaline), shells look very decorative.
  • Fertilizer. No fertilizer until Spring when plants start showing new growth and new leaves.
  • Move your Adeniums outside in Spring, when chances of freeze are zero. More sunlight and air circulation is beneficial for breaking the dormancy and providing plants with a quick growth start.

Date: 25 Mar 2026

Forget the Tropics: These 5 Condo Mango Varieties Thrive in Your Living Room

Mngo tree in a pot

Mngo tree in a pot

Forget the Tropics: These 5 "Condo Mango" Varieties Thrive in Your Living Room 🥭

A tropical orchard in your living room? It’s more possible than you think. While wild mango trees can tower at 60 feet, "condo mango" varieties allow you to harvest juicy, sun-ripened fruit right next to your sofa.
If you have a sunny window and a bit of patience, here is exactly how to grow a potted mango tree indoors.
  • 🌳 Why "Condo Mangoes" are the Secret to Success



    Most people fail because they plant a seed from a grocery store mango. Don't do that. Seeds take up to a decade to fruit and grow far too large.

    Instead, look for grafted, dwarf varieties. These are bred to:

•  Stay compact (6–10 feet).
  • •  Fruit within 1–3 years.
  • •  Thrive in the limited root space of a container.


🌳 The 5 Best Mango Varieties for Indoor Pots



Choosing the right cultivar is 90% of the battle. These five are the gold standard for indoor growers:
  • •  Pickering: The #1 choice for pots; naturally tiny. Rich, fiberless, and coconut-heavy.
  • •  Cogshall: Slow-growing and easy to prune. Classic, ultra-sweet tropical taste.
  • •  Ice Cream: Extremely compact; thrives in small spaces. Creamy texture, like mango sorbet.
  • •  Carrie: High disease resistance; very productive. intense, spicy-sweet aroma.
  • •  Mallika: A semi-dwarf Indian favorite. Exceptional, honey-like sweetness.



🌳 4 Essentials for Indoor Mango Care



1. Light: The "Make or Break" Factor

Mangoes are sun-worshippers. They need at least 8 hours of direct light daily.

The Pro Move: Place your tree in a south-facing window. If you live in a cloudy climate, a high-quality LED grow light isn't optional - it’s a necessity to prevent leaf drop and encourage flowering.

2. Strategic Watering

Mango trees hate "wet feet." Use a fast-draining potting mix and a pot with large drainage holes.

The Rule: Let the top 2 inches of soil dry completely before watering deeply.

3. Temperature & Humidity


Keep your room between 65F and 90F. If you are comfortable, the tree is likely comfortable. Avoid placing it near drafty AC vents or heaters that sap humidity.

4. The "Bee" Factor (Pollination)

Indoors, you lack wind and insects. When your tree flowers, gently shake the branches or use a small paintbrush to move pollen between blooms to ensure fruit sets.
  • 👉 Quick Tips for a Better Harvest


  • •  Pot Size: Start with a 15-inch wide container and "up-pot" every two years.
  • •  Pruning: Don't be afraid to snip! Pruning the tips encourages branching, and more branches mean more fruit.
  • •  Fertilizer: Use a balanced organic fertilizer with micronutrients (like magnesium and iron). We recommend Sunshine Mango Tango specifically formulated for mango trees, and a micro element supplement - Sunshine Superfood - these are safe to use with every watering.


🛒 Dicover Condo Mango

📚 Learn more:
#Food_Forest #How_to #Discover #Mango

Plant Facts

Mangifera indica
Mango
USDA Zone: 9-11
Large tree taller than 20 ftSmall tree 10-20 ftFull sunModerate waterYellow, orange flowersPink flowersEdible plantSeaside, salt tolerant plant
🟢 Join 👉 TopTropicals

Date: 25 Jan 2021

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

How to get Canistel tree to produce
without dropping flowers and fruit

Q: My Canistel tree is 3 1/2 years old and is growing very well, see the picture below. It gets hundreds of pea sized "berries" but then they fall off. No canistel fruit. What's wrong?

A: You have such a nice looking tree, it is a shame you can't get any fruit to ripen.
In our experience, Pouteria trees dropping fruit prematurely is a very common problem. There may be one of the following reasons, or a combination of them:
- Cold winters may affect production, and while Canistel is generally pretty hardy tropical plant that can easily withstand short periods of chill, the fruit may never form properly if it had a cold winter.
- Lack of water. Canistel tree is pretty drought tolerant, but for the proper production cycle it needs regular irrigation. Especially during hot summer.
- The tree may be not strong enough; young trees drop fruit very often when they don't have enough "fruiting energy" built up in their system.
Your tree looks well established and vigorous, however, flower/fruit drop is often a sign of insufficient nutrients of particular kind, usually Boron (B) and/or Molybdenum (Mo): either when a tree is too young and not strong enough, or because of poor soils and lack of necessary elements.

Here is what can be done, considering you live in a warm, frost-free climate.

1. Provide regular fertilizing program. We recommend liquid fertilizers Sunshine Boosters that are safe to use with every watering and year around. It is beneficial to switch plants from traditional "slow-release" fertilizer to the liquid one because it makes a huge difference in plant growth and flower/fruit quality and quantity. See also:
- Why liquid fertilizers are better than dry
- Article about benefits of liquid fertilizers.

Use this plant food for your Canistel tree:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster

2. Apply micro-element remedies that are very effective for improving fruit production, especially when flower or fruit drop occurs:

SUNSHINE Honey - promotes more efficient blossoming and pollination, makes flowers bigger and reduces bud drop.
SUNSHINE SuperFood - improves plant vigor and quality and size of flowers These are all natural, eco-friendly supplements that work great for fruit trees and other edibles.

Date: 17 Sep 2025

Mulberry Care and Growing Tips

Mulberry  fruit  on  a  plate

Mulberries are tough, low-maintenance fruit trees that adapt to many conditions.

  • Climate: Hardy from USDA zone 5 to 10.
  • Soil: Grow well in almost any soil; prefer good drainage.
  • Watering: Regular watering during dry spells; drought tolerant once etablished.
  • Growth: 3–5 feet per year, producing fruit early.
  • Pruning: Annual pruning controls size and improves branching.
  • Pot culture: Dwarf types thrive in containers, staying 6–7 feet tall. Use a large pot, water consistently, and prune lightly. Use Abundance potting mix for best results.
  • Fertilizer: For reliable production, fertilizer regularly. Apply Sunshine C-Cibus liquid booster with every watering, or Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 5-6 months.

❓ Mulberry FAQ


How soon will a mulberry fruit?

One to two years, sometimes the very first season.

What climates are suitable?

USDA zones 5–10, from -20F winters to hot summers.

How tall do they get?

Standard trees 20–30 ft; dwarfs 6–10 ft in pots.

Do I need more than one tree?

No, they are self-pollinating.

What do they taste like?

Sweet and juicy, like a blend of blackberry and raspberry.

How long is the harvest?

Everbearing types ripen gradually from summer into fall.

Do birds eat them?

Yes, but trees are so productive there’s plenty to share.

Are they messy?

Dark-fruited varieties can stain; white mulberries do not.

Can I grow them in containers?

Yes, dwarf types (Dwarf Everbearing, Issai) fruit well in pots.

How long do they live?

Many live for decades; Illinois Everbearing can endure for generations.

What are the health benefits?

Mulberries are low-glycemic, support healthy blood sugar, improve heart health, and are rich in antioxidants.

Shop Mulberries