Date: 15 May 2020
Harvesting from a young mango tree
Q: About a year ago we bought a mango tree from you folks and planted it in our backyard in Estero. It has done well. It now has several mangoes and I am wondering if the tree is strong enough to support the fruit or if I should just cut off the fruit and wait until next year when the tree is a bit stronger. I am attaching some pictures. I am most concerned about the branch on the right which seems to be sagging. If you do not suggest that I cut off the fruit, can I wait until they ripen on the tree and eat them. They seem to be a bit on the small side for eating.
A: Your mango tree looks very healthy and happy, congratulation with a great job! For young mango trees, it is always recommended to minimize a number of fruit to 2-3 so
the tree has enough energy for vegetative growth rather than fruiting.
In your case, as we can see from the pictures, your tree is very well
established, has a strong root system, nice symmetrical shape, and vigorous new growth. In our opinion, you can save all
these fruit and let them ripen on the tree.
To support the plant's energy, make sure to fertilize it during summer with slow-release Mango Food, and year around - with Mango Tango booster. Use Sunshine Honey
supplement for sweeter fruit.
Secure the heavy fruit branch with a v-shape stake (a big branch may work), it can definitely use the support otherwise may break
under strong Florida winds.
You are all set to enjoy your first crop and be rewarded with fruit of your excellent work!
In the photo above: Mr B is harvesting Mango Pim Seng Mun after his successful Sunshine Boosters
Date: 4 Nov 2019
Hardy Plumeria Pudica
Q: I have ordered plumeria pudica from you in March and it is thriving really well here in Rancho Cordova, California. The current temperatures are ranging from 68 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit. My USDA zone is 9b. Does this plumeria pudica survive outside with temperatures dropping in coming winter in CA?
A: From our experience, Plumeria pudica is pretty cold hardy and takes some cold spells in
spite of being a tropical species.
Our trees (well-established) took a few hours of freeze with no
significant damage.
Potted plants are less hardy than in-ground plants. However, their
advantage is, they are easy to move indoors or inside warmer place like garage,
etc. If the temperature stays borderline around 32F for a few hours, the plant
should be safe as long as warm day temperatures follow a cold night. For
longer periods of cold, move the plant inside.
Make sure do not overwater and keep Plumeria on a dry side during
winter, since cold and wet is a bad combination and may cause root problems.
Above is the picture of Plumeria pudica tree growing in Cape Coral, FL
where low temperatures in winter sometimes go down to upper 20's for a few
hours.
To improve cold hardiness of Plumerias and other tropical plants, use SUNSHINE-Epi-T for plant thermal protection and immune system boost.
Make sure to fertilize plants on regular basis to keep them strong and
vigorous. The stronger and bigger the plant, the hardier it is!
RECOMMENDED FERTILIZERS:
Plumeria Top Dress - Smart-Release Booster
Pink N Good Daily Plant Food - Flower Booster
Tropical Allure - Smart-Release Booster
Date: 7 Oct 2019
Fertilizing in Winter?
Q: I'm a bit confused about what winter fertilization schedule I should follow in South Florida. For blooming plants, usually, I use a monthly granular bloom booster fertilizer as well as a liquid fertilizer every 10 days or so. Should I continue that schedule in the winter as well? Should I stop fertilizing altogether in the winter? How about fruit trees? What fertilization schedule should I follow in the winter?
A: Here is a general fertilizing schedule for established plants that we follow here
in SW Florida.
The rule of thumb is, do not fertilize (with macro- NPK elements) when
minimum temperatures drop below 65F and stay at that level for more than 7
days. At this temperature point, most of the tropical and subtropical plants
slow down their metabolism and some of them going into dormancy. This means,
nutrients are not consumed as much as during active growth period, and built-up
nutrient supply within a plant plus whatever is available in the soil is
just enough to get by through the winter. So additional fertilizing is not
necessary. You may continue micro-element supplements and bio-stimulants
throughout the year. In fact, it is highly recommended to do so, to help the plant
survive cold spells. These are very effective tropical plant protectors:
SUNSHINE-Epi - Brassinosteroid plant hormone
SUNSHINE-Power-Si - Advanced plant protector with Silicon
SUNSHINE SuperFood - Complex microelement supplement
This rule is applied to both flowering and fruiting plants, in general. However, some species are winter-flowering and winter-fruiting. For those, you can make an exception and provide extra nutrients for flowering and fruiting, as long as the weather stays warm. During cold spells, avoid any NPK fertilizers and use only bio-stimulants and micro-elements. If you apply NPK during cold, it won't be consumed by a plant, build up in the soil, and may create a root burn situation.
In simple words, fertilize from March to October. Give plants some rest from November to February.
Date: 20 Apr 2019
More about Mulberries
Customer comment on our Mulberry column in the previous newsletter:
...I planted a Himalayan mulberry, Morus macroura, about six years ago.
For several maddening years, it shot only very long, un-branching tentacles
out there, and it resisted my efforts to force some branching by pruning. It
would send another long, reaching shoot from the tip of the pruned branch,
with NO laterals. Several times, it did this. Finally, two years ago, it broke
buds that looked like they meant it all along those long branches, and in one
season, it fluffed out. The next season it elaborated on this, acting much
more like a proper tree. The fruit is fabulous, three or more inches long, very
sweet, with a rich berry flavor that's more raspberry than mulberry. I
guess it just needed more time. My understanding is that mulberries don't
really like to be pruned, but it needed to happen in this case, along a driveway,
so I reigned it in, and now it's a treasure. Be patient.
Cheers, your admirer, C
Check out our Mulberry trees.
Date: 30 Aug 2018
6 Things to Do on Labor Day Weekend
1. Plant a tree... or a shrub, even just a small perennial will do. This plant will make you feel good and accomplished for the whole year, until next Labor Day (or even longer!). You will always see this fruit of your work and remember your motivation, so things are not that bad with you!
2. Pull 66 weeds. Needless to say, you have plenty of those in your yard at the moment. Why 66? Just do it and see what happens. If you don't see any happy results, pull another 66.
3. Fertilize all plants in your garden or potted collection with slow release fertilizer and microelements. Remember, this is the last chance to give them food and strength to survive, before winter. Starting October, all leftover fertilizer goes to storage, even in tropical gardens.
4. Apply SUNSHINE
booster to protect your plants from cool temperature, help to go into
dormancy and rest without stress.
Remember, there are products for all your pre-winter needs: Sunshine-T for improving cold tolerance, Sunshine-BC for caudex and bonsai plants, Sunshine-H for houseplants, and general booster Sunshine-E to cover all occasions... 50 and 100 ml bottles available for large plant collections.
Sunshine-Honey