Q: I received my avocado Wurtz tree yesterday. Per instructions I
have put the tree in a pot first. However I am having difficulty deciding
what to trim off. Yesterday I removed obvious damaged leaves. However as you
can see, the leaves are lighter in some areas and contain yellow and red in
some spots. What would you advise? Given this is a critical state as I do not
want to shock the tree after the trip, I would like to do everything possible
to protect it and ensure viability.
A: Your Avocado tree looks great and healthy overall. You've done excellent job planting it. Wurtz is a good, vigorous variety, while the tree is somewhat dwarf,
great for containers.
You are right, it is the best for the tree to leave it alone and do not
trim or remove leaves any more, until it starts showing new growth. Then it will
be obvious what needs to be trimmed. Reddish/orange color of young leaves is
normal. If any spots or dots - no need to remove those leaves yet. Wait
until the plant grows more leaves. It needs them for photosynthesis, in order to
become stronger.
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster from Garden Series, or Combo
Total Feed Collection - all nutrients in just one bottle, for fruit trees and
edibles.
Date: 31 Oct 2023
How to
establish Tabernaemontana
and get more fragrant blooms
Q: I purchased Tabernaemontana australis from you back in June of this year and it
recovered just fine, but the new growth got some chlorosis. Older leaves still
look normal. The flowers also look normal but lack fragrance. Since I
live up north, I have it in a heated greenhouse for the winter, with a grow
light to compensate for the short days. I have it in a 10 inch clay pot in a
mix of equal parts standard indoor potting soil, peat moss, and perlite. It
gets fed with half strength 10-10-10 about once a month on average. Is there
some specific culture that you would recommend for this plant ? I really
love it and want it to thrive.
A: Tabernaemontana is a plant that may take some
time to establish itself, and leaf chlorosis often becomes a common issue
when the root system is not well-established. This symptom is indicative of Iron
deficiency, and possibly other micro-element deficiencies, such as Boron or
Molybdenum, which become more apparent when the plant receives excessive
water. This problem tends to intensify as temperatures drop, particularly when a
combination of cool and wet conditions prevails. It's worth noting that your
potting mix seems to be appropriate for this plant.
In light of these circumstances, we recommend the following steps:
1) Reduce watering during the cooler season, especially when
daylight hours are shorter. Allow the top layer of the soil to dry before
watering again.
2) Consider supplementing with microelements using a product
like SunshineSuperfood. You can apply this as a foliar spray and mix it with
your watering can.
3) Maintain your regular fertilizing program throughout the
winter months, but ensure that you use only liquid amino-acid fertilizer, such
as
Sunshine Megaflor. Follow the instructions on the label for the correct
dosage and apply it with each watering, even during the winter. Since you will be
reducing amount of water, the amount of fertilizer also will be adjusted
accordingly. Important: do not use any dry fertilizers during winter months
(Nov-March).
Regarding the fragrance of the flowers, they typically emit a
mild, sweet scent, although it may not be as potent as that of gardenia or
jasmine. The strongest aroma usually becomes more prominent during warm (but not
excessively hot) and humid conditions, particularly in the morning hours. As
the plant grows larger and healthier, the fragrance should become more intense
because the flowers produce more essential oil when the plant is robust. You
may also apply Sunshine Honey supplement to improve flower quality and fragrance
strength.
Q: My mature mango tree is fully grown 15 yrs old and each year
it fully blooms, sometimes twice. Shortly thereafter, all the baby mangos and
flowers fall off providing no mangos for the season. I have tried
fertilizing, spraying the tree for fungus or other insects, to no avail. I give up, any
suggestions?
A: Dropping fruit in pretty common issue with mango trees. There
may be several reasons, or a combination of reasons. 1. Fungal disease (anthracnose), and/or powdery mildew. To avoid
fungal disease problems, spray your tree when it just begins to form the flower
spikes. Treat foliage with Copper fungicide. There is also another
one, very effective for anthracnose: Thiophanate methyl. 2. Inadequate nutrition. Feed your tree with a combination of
granulated fertilizer Mango-Food, liquid booster SUNSHINE Mango Tango and micro-elements Sunshine Honey and Sunshine Superfood
Check out pictures of our mango tree problems that were fixed within a month by
using Sunshine Boosters. 3. Too much rain or heavy dew during blooming and fruit set (see 1 -
use preventive treatment for fungus) 4. Cold. Sometimes the cause of premature fruit drop is from the
cold weather during bloom and fruit set. Usually the most affected varieties are
the early bloomers including Glenn, Haden. The cold damages the developing
embryo in the seed. The fruit starts to develop but because of ethylene gas
given off by the damaged embryo, the fruit is triggered to drop before
maturity. To see if cold temperature was the cause for your fruit dropping, cut open
the fallen fruit. Even if there is a small speck of brown in the seed,
that's enough damage to stop fruit development.
To learn more how to care for your mango, please read this publication.
Date: 24 Jun 2018
Avocado, Lychee and Mango setting
fruit... give them some FOOD!
Q:
Do I need to fertilize tropical fruit when they set fruit?
A:
It is traditionally believed that mango and other tropical
fruit shouldn't be fertilized during fruiting period. It
is true to an extent: you don't want fruit to burst from
fast excessive growing. Instead, try to feed fruit trees
wisely, because they still need proper nutrition to
produce flowers and fruit.
Our spring specials of Lychee, Avocado and Mango are full of buds and
some already set tiny fruit (see examples on the photo).
Here is the feeding plan for these plants once you receive
your mail order:
1) Once received the plant, pot it into container size of
the root ball and let establish for couple weeks. Use SUNSHINE-E to help the plant
recover from shipping stress and establish root system.
2) Apply SUNSHINE-Honey right before
flowering, and next time at setting fruit, to provide
sweeter and bigger fruit, eliminate fruit cracks and help
resist fungus and other fruit diseases.
3) Use balanced granulated fertilizer,
1 tsp per each gallon of soil. Apply once a month during
Spring-Summer season. This gives the plant balanced
macro-elements (NPK) necessary for overall plant health.
Do not use on fruit trees fertilizers with high Nitrogen
content.
4) Apply SUNSHINE SuperFood
micro-element booster to keep fruit trees vigorous,
develop strong root system and avoid deficiencies.
5) In case of signs of chlorosis (yellowing leaves with
darker veins), give the tree SUNSHINE-GreenLeaf and watch
the leaves turning green quickly.
After harvesting, don't forget to make another treatment
of SUNSHINE-Honey as a
preparation for the next year flowering and fruiting
season.
Date: 29 Jan 2026
How to make Sapodilla fruit profusely?
Sapodilla - Manilkara or Achras zapota, the Brown Sugar Fruit
🍊 How to make Sapodilla fruit profusely?
Sapodilla - Manilkara or Achras zapota), the Brown Sugar Fruit is a warm-climate evergreen fruit tree that can produce a lot of fruit once conditions are right. So why do so many sapodilla trees grow beautifully, flower heavily, and still refuse to set fruit?
Sapodilla Fruit Production - What Really Matters
1. 🌳 Choose the Right Tree
Grafted or air-layered trees fruit much sooner - typically in 1-2 years - and more reliably than seedlings, which may take 6–8+ years.
Some varieties are more profuse producers than others. For example, Silas Woods is virtually everbearing, Hasya is commercial prolific producer, Oxkutzcab (or Ox) -is also heavily productive (learn more about varieties).
2. ☀️ Environment: Heat, Sun & Water Balance
Temperature and Humidity
Excessive heat above 90F and low humidity can cause flowers to dry up and fall before setting fruit.
Solution: Provide filtered light or shade during the hottest part of the day to reduce heat stress on blossoms.
Water
Sapodillas are drought tolerant, but consistent moisture during flowering and fruit set improves fruit retention.
Avoid waterlogged conditions - soggy soil can stress roots and reduce yield.
Sun Exposure
Full sun is best for growth and flowering - but for hot climates, protection during peak afternoon heat helps reduce flower drop.
Young trees can also suffer sunburn.
3. Fertilization: Feed for Fruit, Not Just Foliage
Good nutrition is critical for flowers to turn into fruit. Apply a routine feed through the growing/flowering season - contolled-release (Green Magic) or liquid (Sunshine C-Cibus) both work.
Balanced fertilizer with trace elements like Boron (B), Molybdenum (Mo), Iron (Fe), and Copper (Cu) is essential for fruit set and development. Boron & Molybdenum deficiency as a frequent cause of flower/fruit drop in container-grown trees (nutrients get depleted quickly in pots).
Micro-nutrient sprays 2-3 times per year help improve fruit retention and quality. Some growers use sugar boosters (Sunshine Honey) or micronutrient blends that include Mo & B to help fruit set (Sunshine Superfood).
4. 🐝 Pollination - Often Overlooked
Sapodilla flowers are small and often require pollinators for best fruit set.
In some regions, small insects like thrips are key pollinators.
In places with low insect activity, hand pollination dramatically increases fruit set - brushing pollen from one flower to another with a small paintbrush during peak bloom times can help.
Placing fruit scraps (apple peels/banana peels) under the tree to attract beetles is an inexpensive way to boost insect activity.
5. ✂️ Pruning and Tree Structure
Moderate pruning can help open the canopy for better light penetration and air circulation, which supports flowering and reduces stress. Training young trees promotes a strong branch structure that can carry more fruit later. Sapodilla flowers on young growth (tips of the branches).
6. Pot vs Ground: Size Matters
If your sapodilla is in a container, root bound trees struggle with fruit set because roots run out of space and nutrients - stepping up to a larger container or planting in the ground can help.
Root-bound trees often bloom but fail to develop fruit.
7.
📅 Patience & Timing
Even healthy trees can take years to start fruiting well.
Trees often flower repeatedly but only set fruit when environmental conditions and pollination align - especially important for young or newly planted trees.
📌 Summary Checklist for Better Sapodilla Fruiting
✔️ Choose a grafted variety (faster, more reliable fruit).
✔️ Manage heat & humidity - shade during hot hours.
✔️ Water consistently but avoid waterlogging.
✔️ Fertilize balanced NPK + micronutrients (include B & Mo).
