Date: 13 Apr 2021
Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster
Why my Avocado is not flowering?
Q: I have 5 avocados. Three of your cold hardy varieties and two others that have all flowered and set fruit in the past. The last two years including this year, not a single one of them has put out any flowers. I am getting lots of new growth like one would expect on a tree too young to flower. The last two years have been very mild with out any damaging frost where in previous years they lost all their leaves due to frost yet started putting out flowers once winter was over. I am confused because they have all flowered and set fruit previous years. Any ideas would be appreciated.
A: From information you provided, and considering the trees get
lots of full sun and cold was not an issue, the only explanation is - lack of
nutrients. Here is an example.
Very common situation: you get a small 2-3 ft Avocado or Mango tree in 3
gal pot (or even smaller) from a nursery, full of flowers, and sometimes even a
small fruit. You bring it home, plant it in the ground or a bigger pot, it
looks happy and grows like crazy. Then next year - oops, no fruit, sometimes
not even flowers. What happened?
When the tree lived in a nursery, it was provided with all necessary
nutrients through the injector systems (continuous feed); or some nurseries may use
top dress smart release on regular schedule. Regardless of fertilizer type,
professional grower's set up delivers plant food non-stop, on regular basis, with balanced formulas. Plants are not only growing fast but also ready to produce, since nutrients are always available for a full growth cycle.
When you plant a tree in the ground (or larger pot), conditions change.
They may be beneficial for the plant: lots of room for roots to establish, hence
lots of vegetative growth. Even if you planted it using good quality fertile
soil, this soil may contain mostly nutrients responsible for vegetative
growth (branches and leaves). Chances are, your soil may be rich in Nitrogen
(good for green growth), but poor in other elements responsible for flowering and
fruiting (Phosphorous, Potassium, and many important micro-elements such as
Molybdenum, Boron, Iron, etc.). Besides, existing soil gets exhausted
quickly, and within a year a two, if you don't add fertilizer, flowering and fruiting may be reduced or even stopped.
This is why fertilizing program is very important for fruit trees that are expected to bring a crop soon.
We recommend:
- SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster - balanced food for fruit
trees
- SUNSHINE-Honey - sugar booster - promotes more efficient blossoming and
pollination, makes flowers bigger and reduces bud drop
- SUNSHINE SuperFood - for improving fruit trees production
Also keep in mind that some fruit trees have a habit of "skipping" a year and may either produce less or not produce at all every other year. In any case, balanced nutrition program can help to fix this "bad habit".
Date: 28 Dec 2020
Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster
How to grow a happy Red Jade Vine?
Q: My Red Jade Vine has the leaf tips turning brown. I water this plant four times a week and I am using a half a teaspoon of miracle grow bloom booster 15-30-15 per 2 gallons, every two weeks. In the beginning I had to water this plant off city water in South Fort Myers. Over the last two months I picked up a dechlorinator buggy plus threw that on my hose and I've been watering it with that but it didn't seem to make a difference. I put this plant in the ground last September. It has three shoots that run into the top of the tree, so it is growing but leaves seem to drop off down low at the base of the vine and the brown tipping running into the top of the plant. But not the newest shoot its leaves are solid green all the way at the top. Thanks for any advice.
A: Mucuna benettii - Red Jade vine - is not the easiest plant to grow, and
we are glad your vine is growing well. For those who love this plant but not
ready to face all challenges, we recommend its cousin - Camptosema grandiflora - Dwarf Red Jade Vine, which is much hardier and
easier plant.
We looked at the photos and these are our thoughts.
1) The top of the plant with green fresh leaves definitely indicates
that the plant is generally healthy and vigorous.
2) Dry tips of the old leaves may indicate excess salts in soil, in
combination with the summer heat that it went through. Based on your feeding program
description, that fertilizer may create a problem. Water soluble traditional
fertilizers are EDTA-chelated which often causes nutrients lock up in soil
and leaf drop. Try to stay away from that fertilizer for a month and let the
rains and/or irrigation water flush the soil for a couple of weeks.
3) Red Jade vine is a very sensitive species. Normally, during hot season
it is safe to use traditional fertilizers, especially slow-release granulated.
However, with this plant we recommend you to switch to more delicate formula
and use only liquid fertilizer.
SUNSHINE Megaflor - Bloom Nutrition Booster will be the best. It is
safe to use it as frequent as with every watering! It is amino-acid
based, and will be totally consumed by the plant without nutrient lockup.
4) Another cause of dry leaf tips may be micro-element deficiency.
Megaflor booster already has all necessary micro-nutrients in it, plus you
may apply some extra: SUNSHINE Superfood.
5) You may continue using regular water for watering (including city water)
as long as you use amino-acid based plant food and supplements: they improve
soil acidity (what tropical plants like is acidic soil, and Florida soils
are alkaline). Additionally, to improve soil acidity which can be critical for
this Mucuna species, you may add 1"layer of pure peat moss on top of the
soil around the plant. Please keep us in loop how the plant is doing. It is
pretty rare species in cultivation and we will be happy to help you to keep it
thriving.
Date: 13 Aug 2020
Healthy Plant Food
Q&A from Mr Booster
Establishing Avocado Tree
Q: I received my avocado Wurtz tree yesterday. Per instructions I have put the tree in a pot first. However I am having difficulty deciding what to trim off. Yesterday I removed obvious damaged leaves. However as you can see, the leaves are lighter in some areas and contain yellow and red in some spots. What would you advise? Given this is a critical state as I do not want to shock the tree after the trip, I would like to do everything possible to protect it and ensure viability.
A: Your Avocado tree looks great and healthy overall. You've done excellent job planting it. Wurtz is a good, vigorous variety, while the tree is somewhat dwarf,
great for containers.
You are right, it is the best for the tree to leave it alone and do not
trim or remove leaves any more, until it starts showing new growth. Then it will
be obvious what needs to be trimmed. Reddish/orange color of young leaves is
normal. If any spots or dots - no need to remove those leaves yet. Wait
until the plant grows more leaves. It needs them for photosynthesis, in order to
become stronger.
Keep the tree in bright shade and gradually move from filtered sun to
full sun. Water daily. Within a week or two after planting, you can start
applying mild fertilizer and micro-elements. We recommend at this growth stage:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster
SUNSHINE SuperFood - Micro-element Plant Booster
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster from Garden Series, or Combo Total Feed Collection - all nutrients in just one bottle, for fruit trees and edibles.
Date: 31 Oct 2023
How to
establish Tabernaemontana
and get more fragrant blooms
Q: I purchased Tabernaemontana australis from you back in June of this year and it recovered just fine, but the new growth got some chlorosis. Older leaves still look normal. The flowers also look normal but lack fragrance. Since I live up north, I have it in a heated greenhouse for the winter, with a grow light to compensate for the short days. I have it in a 10 inch clay pot in a mix of equal parts standard indoor potting soil, peat moss, and perlite. It gets fed with half strength 10-10-10 about once a month on average. Is there some specific culture that you would recommend for this plant ? I really love it and want it to thrive.
A: Tabernaemontana is a plant that may take some time to establish itself, and leaf chlorosis often becomes a common issue when the root system is not well-established. This symptom is indicative of Iron deficiency, and possibly other micro-element deficiencies, such as Boron or Molybdenum, which become more apparent when the plant receives excessive water. This problem tends to intensify as temperatures drop, particularly when a combination of cool and wet conditions prevails. It's worth noting that your potting mix seems to be appropriate for this plant.
In light of these circumstances, we recommend the following steps:
1) Reduce watering during the cooler season, especially when daylight hours are shorter. Allow the top layer of the soil to dry before watering again.
2) Consider supplementing with microelements using a product like Sunshine Superfood. You can apply this as a foliar spray and mix it with your watering can.
3) Maintain your regular fertilizing program throughout the
winter months, but ensure that you use only liquid amino-acid fertilizer, such
as
Sunshine Megaflor. Follow the instructions on the label for the correct
dosage and apply it with each watering, even during the winter. Since you will be
reducing amount of water, the amount of fertilizer also will be adjusted
accordingly.
Important: do not use any dry fertilizers during winter months
(Nov-March).
Regarding the fragrance of the flowers, they typically emit a mild, sweet scent, although it may not be as potent as that of gardenia or jasmine. The strongest aroma usually becomes more prominent during warm (but not excessively hot) and humid conditions, particularly in the morning hours. As the plant grows larger and healthier, the fragrance should become more intense because the flowers produce more essential oil when the plant is robust. You may also apply Sunshine Honey supplement to improve flower quality and fragrance strength.
Date: 30 May 2020
How to prevent mango fruit drop
Q: My mature mango tree is fully grown 15 yrs old and each year it fully blooms, sometimes twice. Shortly thereafter, all the baby mangos and flowers fall off providing no mangos for the season. I have tried fertilizing, spraying the tree for fungus or other insects, to no avail. I give up, any suggestions?
A: Dropping fruit in pretty common issue with mango trees. There
may be several reasons, or a combination of reasons.
1. Fungal disease (anthracnose), and/or powdery mildew. To avoid
fungal disease problems, spray your tree when it just begins to form the flower
spikes. Treat foliage with Copper fungicide. There is also another
one, very effective for anthracnose: Thiophanate methyl.
2. Inadequate nutrition. Feed your tree with a combination of
granulated fertilizer Mango-Food, liquid booster SUNSHINE Mango Tango and micro-elements Sunshine Honey and Sunshine Superfood
Check out pictures of our mango tree problems that were fixed within a month by
using Sunshine Boosters.
3. Too much rain or heavy dew during blooming and fruit set (see 1 -
use preventive treatment for fungus)
4. Cold. Sometimes the cause of premature fruit drop is from the
cold weather during bloom and fruit set. Usually the most affected varieties are
the early bloomers including Glenn, Haden. The cold damages the developing
embryo in the seed. The fruit starts to develop but because of ethylene gas
given off by the damaged embryo, the fruit is triggered to drop before
maturity. To see if cold temperature was the cause for your fruit dropping, cut open
the fallen fruit. Even if there is a small speck of brown in the seed,
that's enough damage to stop fruit development.
To learn more how to care for your mango, please read this publication.
