🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival
Guide Part 2.Temperature.
❄️
Smokey: Too cold. We need more heaters so the plants feel comfortable. Sunshine: I feel comfortable. Smokey: You are not part of my plant collection, but I am glad you are comfortable.
Most tropicals stop growing below 70 to 75 F. They stay green, but their engine shuts down.
Below 70F:
Water intake drops.
Roots slow down.
Fertilizing becomes risky.
Root root becomes easy.
If you WANT your plants to grow in winter, you must take care of everything:
Warmth, light, humidity, water. It all works together.
Aim for 75 F with bright light. Water lightly. No fertilizer.
Watch out for drafts. Cold windows. Door blasts. Garage entryways.
Even one gust can trigger leaf drop.
Vents are the opposite problem: hot, dry, dusty air. That gives you crispy edges and mites.
Root zone temperature matters just as much as room air.
Your thermostat may say 72 F, but your pot on a tile floor may be sitting at 55 F.
Fix this by elevating pots on boards or stands. Use Styrofoam.
Never keep pots directly on cold tile o windowsill
Extra winter heat: Space heaters are fine if used smartly. Do not blow hot air directly on plants.
Keep heaters away from cords, trays, and water. Oil filled radiators are the safest option for plant rooms.
Use a humidifier if you want growth or want to prevent spider mites.
But do not blow mist directly onto leaves.
Always place the unit lower than the plant canopy.
Grouping helps. Put tropical plants close together to share humidity.
Do not mix succulents with humidity lovers.
Cats and dogs love to knock over lights and stands. Secure your fixtures. Trust us.
Airflow: Light airflow is healthy. Direct fan blast is not. Still, dry corners invite mites.
A mild night drop is OK. A big one below 55 F will stop growth completely.
A mandevilla thriving indoors with bright pink blooms and glossy green leaves.
☂️ PLACEMENT: MICROCLIMATES RULE EVERYTHING
Indoors is one big tradeoff: light but cold near windows, warm but dim away from them.
The winning combo is a warm room with supplemental light.
Best zones to keep plants in winter:
South or east windows with additional light
Warm living spaces
Bright bathrooms for natural humidity
Worst zones to keep plants in winter:
Behind curtains
Directly on windowsills
Near heaters or vents
Against cold exterior walls
Dark corners without supplemental lighting
A vigorous indoor philodendron stretching across the window.
💨 ACCLIMATION
Moving a plant from outdoors to indoors is a shock. Light drops. Humidity drops. Airflow stops. Soil cools. Even healthy plants may drop some leaves for a few weeks. That is normal.
Before you bring them inside:
Rinse foliage to remove dust and pests. We recommend Sunshine NoBug - and organic, safe solution.
Check for ants.
Trim weak branches.
Treat soil if fungus gnats are present.
Try to bring plants inside before the first cold front, not after.
If you are reading this too late, do the prep now and expect a little leaf drop.
If you nail light and temperature, winter becomes simple. In the next mail-list we will cover watering, fertilizer timing, humidity, and other indoor tricks that keep tropicals happy till spring. Stay tuned.
Cat Bob is inspecting his indoor garden around the tub
with a bright skylight
✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT
Q: Why are leaves dropping only on the window side?
A: Cold glass. The room may be warm, but the glass surface can be much colder.
Q: Is a cold room OK for tropicals?
A: They may survive, but they will not grow below about 65F to 75F. When nights stay below 65F for a week, many plants enter dormancy.
Q: My room feels warm. Why is my plant still not growing?
A: Check the soil temperature. Pots on cold tile can be 10 to 20F colder than the air.
Q: Can plants sit directly on the floor?
A: Not on cold tile. Always elevate them on boards, stands, or trays.
Q: Is it OK to keep plants near a heater or vent?
A: No. Vents and heaters blast hot, dry air and cause crispy leaves and mites.
Q: My plant is dropping leaves after coming indoors. Why?
A: Normal acclimation to reduced light and humidity right after the move.
Q: Can I keep plants in a bright bathroom?
A: Yes. Bathrooms can have good humidity. Just keep pots off cold tile.
Q: Do I need a humidifier?
A: Not for survival. Yes if you want better growth and fewer pests like spider mites.
Q: Do I need a grow tent?
A: No. A bright LED plus a warm room is enough for winter holding.
Q: Should I fertilize in winter?
A: Not now. Winter fertilizer rules will be covered in the next mail-list.
Q: Should I water the same as in summer?
A: No. Indoor plants need much less water in winter. Watering rules also coming soon.
🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival
Guide Part 1: Lighting
❄️
Smokey: "Winter lighting must be precise. I need this light exactly at 14
inches."
Sunshine: "Sure. I am holding this… little number thing."
Smokey: "It reads humidity. Your main job is to look cute."
🌞
LIGHT, TEMPERATURE, PLACEMENT
Winter indoors is a different kind of battlefield.
Dark rooms. Dry air. Cold windows. Random drafts. Weak light. Sad plants.
We've been talking about keeping your tropicals alive outdoors previously.
But some of you have no choice this time of year. You have to bring the jungle inside.
If that is you, then this is your plant survival guide.
☀️ LIGHT: THE WINTER LIFELINE
Light advice here comes straight from our in-house expert, Michael Dubinovsky, a high-tech lighting engineer with over 30 years of hands-on experience. If he says brightness beats hours, trust him.
Here is the truth: Indoor light in winter is 10 to 50 times weaker than outdoors.
Short days. Low-angle sun. Windows filtering half the useful light. It all adds up.
Tropicals need 10 to 12 hours of real brightness. Winter sun cannot do that on its own. Not even in a big window. So we help them.
Use bright LED shop lights or utility lights. 5000K to 6500K CCT. High lumen output. Skip decorative bulbs. Skip purple grow fancy toy lights. If you want a single plant light, even a clamp lamp is fine if you screw in a bright daylight LED bulb.
Panels work best for plant clusters. Bars for shelves. Bulbs for single plants.
And grouping plants under one bright panel always beats spreading them out.
Distance matters: keep LEDs about 12 to 18 inches above the leaves.
Too close: leaf burn.
Too far: stretching, weak stems.
Leaves reaching up? Light is too high or too weak.
Leaves curling down? Light is too close.
If you want a reality check, download any smartphone lux meter app.
Most indoor corners are 50 to 200 lux without supplemental light.
Tropicals want much more
And a quick tip about windows: winter sun comes in sideways.
A spot that looks bright at noon can go dull by 2 PM. Don't count of window light
Bright light or long hours
People try to fix weak light by running it for 16 or 18 hours. That does not work.
Plants care more about light intensity.
A few hours of strong light beats all-day dim light.
If the light is weak, adding more hours will not change anything except your electric bill.
Simple rule: Short duration but bright is always better than long duration but weak. - by Michael, Top Tropicals lighting expert
No need for fancy horticultural panels
You do not need purple grow lights. You do not need special horticultural fixtures. You do not need expensive panels unless you want real winter growth.
For winter plant holding till spring, the inexpensive solution works great:
Bright LED daylight bulbs (5000K to 6500K) from hardware store
High lumen output
Inexpensive clamp lamps
Aim directly at the plant from 12 to 18 inches
This setup keeps tropicals happy until spring without buying anything fancy.
Save the money for soil, pots, or your next plant.
Indoor plant lighting safety note:
Use timers. Keep cords dry. Do not overload outlets.
Do not hang lights over humidifiers.
And do not put fixtures on piles of books to raise them. People do this.
✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT
Q: I am in Home Depot. Which light do I buy?
A: LED shop light, daylight color (5000K to 6500K), high lumens. Skip fancy plant bulbs.
Q: Can I use clamp lamps or floor lamps for plants?
A: Yes. Clamp lamps with a bright daylight LED bulb work great for winter holding.
Q: Do I need special horticultural grow lights?
A: No. A bright LED daylight bulb works fine for winter. Save the fancy lights for real growth projects.
Q: How far should the light be from the plant?
A: About 12 to 18 inches above the leaves. Too close burns. Too far stretches.
Q: Can I run weak lights for 18 hours to compensate?
A: No. Weak light plus long hours still equals a weak plant. Brightness matters more than hours.
Q: How do I know if a spot is bright enough?
A: Use a free phone lux app. Most indoor corners are much too dim for tropicals.
Q: I have a huge window. Why do I still need LEDs?
A: Indoor winter light is weak, short, and filtered by glass. Plants want intensity, not just a big window.
Q: My window faces north. Now what?
A: North windows are decorative only. Use supplemental lighting or move the plant.
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.
Smokey: Winter roots make spring easy. Keep that plant straight.
Sunshine: I am keeping it straight by not touching it at all.
Smokey: That is exactly what I was afraid of.
November is the month when the garden finally stops yelling at you.
The heat backs off, the bugs calm down, and the weeds take a breath.
This is when we get to take control again.
And as gardeners, we know the truth:
Either you use your garden, or your garden will use you in
spring.
Let me walk you through this, gardener to gardener.
"November is when the garden finally listens.
Give it a little direction now, shape it, guide it, and prepare it for
spring.
It will reward you all year." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌴
When The Garden Uses
You
We have all lived this scene:
March weeds appear, and two days later it looks like a jungle.
One missed watering turns into five wilted plants and a full week of
recovery.
A skipped feeding shows up as yellow leaves and panic searching
online.
Bugs return fast, and suddenly you are washing leaves every other
day.
Random plant purchases fill your yard with chaos and mismatched care
needs.
When the garden takes control, spring feels like hard work, not
joy.
Overgrown Tropical Garden Showing How a Garden Can Use You
📊
When You Use Your Garden
November flips the script.
Plants slow down. Soil stays warm.
This is the safest month to experiment, move plants, fix mistakes, and
redesign.
What you do now pays off huge in March.
You map out sun zones and shade zones.
You mulch now so weeds do not explode later.
You move plants to better positions without heat stress.
You remove the high-drama plants before they start another season of
complaints.
You pick what you want for next year instead of letting impulse buys
rule you.
Spring becomes smooth instead of overwhelming.
And honestly? It feels good to walk outside in March and see order instead
of chaos.
In the photo: Every garden starts in small steps. Biquinho Pepper
(front) in the garden.
What Benefit
Do You Get Personally?
Less watering.
Fewer bugs.
Bigger fruit.
Better flowering.
Less money wasted.
Less time fixing problems you could have prevented now.
This is why experienced tropical gardeners adore November.
In the photo: Organized Tropical Garden. Firebush (lemon gold
variety) and Cordylines (Ti Leaf) make colorful spots in the garden.
🐭
Start With Something Small Today (5 Minutes)
Pick one:
Add mulch to the driest spot in your yard.
Cut one dead branch from any tree.
Move one pot to a better sun angle.
Pull three weeds from the worst area.
Water deeply once this week.
Small steps now save hours later.
⭐
One Short Story
Last year we planted a
Star Fruit in November.
By March, it was already covered in flowers, and have been harvesting fruit
non-stop since then!
That is what winter planning does: it gives plants a head start you can
actually see.
🐍
Plants That Will Use You If You Let Them
These are great plants, but only if you plan before planting them:
Papaya
- fits any yard, delicious fruit and natural digestive remedy
Pick even one of these and your garden starts giving back.
In the photo: Cattley Guava brings not only tasty fruit but also a
wonderful character with its amazing multi-color twisted trunk.
🌡️ November Advantage
You cannot ruin anything in November.
This is the safest, calmest month to shape your garden the way you want.
If you act now, spring becomes a victory lap.
If you wait, spring becomes a rescue mission.
In the photo: Adenium is a colorful accent in the
garden.
💐
Thanksgiving Tie-In
This is the season to reset, breathe, and be thankful for your outdoor
space.
A garden that works for you is one of the best gifts you can give yourself
going into the new year.
Start your November plan today.
Use your garden.
Do not let it use you.
In the photo: Megaskepasma, Iris, Colocasia, Crotons, Dracaena and Ti
Leaf bring instant tropical look to your garden.
Smokey and Sunshine Wrap Up the Garden with Frost Cloth Before the
Chill.
Smokey: "Thermometer says 45. Time to wrap the bananas!"
Sunshine: "You wrap the bananas. I’ll guard the mulch… from this
sunny spot."
Smokey: "Teamwork, Sunshine. Teamwork."
🌡️ Cold nights are coming - but your
tropicals do not need to shiver!
Even in sunny Florida and other warm zones, one cold snap
can undo months of growth. Preparation is everything. Tropical plants can
handle a lot, but they dislike surprises. Let’s make sure
your garden stays safe, strong, and happy all winter long.
Tips from Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
👉 Group and Check Your Plants
You already know which plants are in pots and which are in the ground.
What matters now is prioritizing by cold sensitivity.
Identify the tender tropicals – papaya, banana, plumeria, adenium,
heliconia – and decide which ones get covered first when temperatures
drop.
Keep frost cloths or old sheets near those areas, ready to grab fast. If
your garden is large,
label protection zones or mark plants that always need extra care. The goal
is to have a plan, not a panic, when the cold alert hits.
Once you know your priorities, you can plan the rest of your protection
strategy.
👉 Feed and Mulch
Stop using high-nitrogen fertilizers by late fall. They push soft new growth
that freezes easily.
Add compost around the base of your plants and top with 3 to 4 inches of
mulch. Mulch acts like a blanket: it keeps warmth in, protects the roots,
and keeps soil moisture steady. Just make sure the soil drains well; cold
and soggy soil leads to root rot. In raised beds, check that water flows
away easily.
After you feed and mulch, it is time to look at how your local zone changes
the game.
👉 Zone-by-Zone Tips
Moving Tropical Plants Indoors for Winter Protection
Zone 10: You are lucky! This is mostly a maintenance season.
Watch for root rot after heavy rain, trim lightly if needed, and protect
tender young trees during surprise chills. Keep some frost cloth ready just
in case.
Zone 9: This is the main action zone. Nights can dip into the
30s. Deep-water your trees once before cold nights to insulate the roots.
Apply heavy mulch, and have frost protection ready to go. If you grow
tropical fruit like mango or guava, consider wrapping young trunks in burlap
or foam pipe insulation.
Zone 8: This is where tropical gardening becomes creative. Stick
to cold-hardy tropicals such as loquat, guava, or cold-hardy avocado
varieties. Use portable greenhouses, wrap trunks, and move smaller plants
indoors or to a heated porch when frost threatens.
Now that the garden beds are set, let’s look at your pots and
containers – your most mobile plants.
👉 Container and Patio Plants
Potted plants are the easiest to protect but also the quickest to freeze.
Start reducing watering now so roots do not stay too wet in cooler weather.
Before moving them, check for insects hiding under leaves or in the soil.
Group your pots close to a wall for reflected heat and wind protection.
If you plan to bring them indoors, do it gradually. Move them closer to the
house for a few days before bringing them all the way inside to help them
adjust to lower light and humidity.
When the chill starts, many gardeners rush to move everything inside at once
– but a smooth transition works much better.
👉 Indoor Plants
When bringing plants inside, give them a good rinse to remove dust and bugs,
and flush the soil to wash out salts from summer fertilizing. Keep
them separate from your houseplants for a week to make sure no pests come
along. Expect some leaf drop – it is normal as they adjust to lower
light. Give them bright light near a window, and cut watering by about half
until spring. Avoid misting too much; good airflow matters more than
humidity during winter.
Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a
while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.
👉 Timing Is Everything
The key is to prepare before the first cold warning. Check your weather app
regularly once nights start dropping into the 50s. Keep covers, mulch, and
supplies ready so you are not running outside at midnight with a flashlight
and a frozen hose. Have your frost cloths labeled by plant group and stored
in an easy spot. A little organization now saves a lot of stress later.
Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a
while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.
Remember: the goal is to help your plants rest safely. Many gardeners prune
or fertilize too late in the season – we will talk about why that can
be risky next week." — says Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
Coming next mail-list: The best gadgets for cold protection (lights,
heaters, frost covers) and what NOT to do in winter.
Protecting Tropical Plants with Frost Covers at Top Tropicals
Nursery
Date: 12 Jan 2025
How to protect tropical plants in Winter
Winter tips and podcast
Photo above: wrapping plants with frost cloth
Winter can be tough on plants, especially on tropical varieties. But with a little preparation, you can protect your garden and keep your plants safe from the cold. Here's how:
Winter Care Tips for Tropical Plants
Cut watering: Reduce watering to prevent root rot. Cold + wet = dead roots.
Water before frost: Thirsty plants are more vulnerable. Water them before a cold night to prevent damage.
Wind protection: Wind is more harmful than temperature drops. Plant near structures like houses or trees for shelter.
Prepare for long cold periods: If cold weather lasts for hours, use all available protection, including Christmas lights and propane heaters.
Don't use dry fertilizer in winter: Heavy fertilizing encourages tender growth, which is more susceptible to cold damage. Sunshine Boosters liquid fertilizers are safe to use year around as their intake is controlled by reduced watering. Use fabric covers, not plastic: Plastic can cook plants in the sun, while fabric allows better ventilation.
Photo above: we cover our plants in the nursery with a thin synthetic fabric (sintepon) called "frost cloth" or "strawberry cloth". It is light, breathable and allows light and water to go through unlike plastic that creates heavy water pockets.
Prepare for Cold Nights
Wrap plants: On cold nights, cover individual plants or trees with sheets or blankets to shield them from wind chill.
Use Christmas lights: A simple string of lights can add extra warmth, protecting your plants during frosty nights.
Use propane heaters: For added warmth in a larger area, place a propane heater near your plants. Make sure to follow safety guidelines and keep the heater at a safe distance from flammable materials. This can help maintain a few extra degrees of warmth, especially in more open garden spaces or temporary greenhouses. Always ensure proper ventilation to avoid harmful gas buildup.
Photo above: we use both propane and kerosene heaters at the nursery
Large Collections? Build a Temporary Greenhouse
Affordable winter greenhouse: For large plant collections, you don't need an expensive greenhouse. A mobile carport with plastic or fabric covering, costing around $200, can house up to 100 plants!
Photo above: Temporary wrapping around plant collection with a plastic or frost cloth protects from a windchill. It may also win you a few degrees even without a heater. In this particular case, according to our temp sensors, with 30F outside, it was 41F inside this "dome", no heaters used.
Southern Exposure and Garage Storage
Southern windowsills: Compact tropicals can thrive on southern-facing windowsills, getting plenty of sunlight during the day.
Move plants inside: If you have larger collections, move them into a well-lit garage for the colder nights or longer periods.
Photo above: using Christmas lights around plants while wrapping with frost cloth.
Key Factors for Survival
Cold duration: Tropical plants can survive brief cold spells but long durations, even above freezing, can be deadly.
Wind-chill: Wind chill can be harsher than the temperature itself.
Exposure: Southern-facing slopes hold heat longer, making them ideal for your plants.
Humidity: Proximity to lakes or oceans can create a milder micro-climate.
Gradual temperature Drops are safer. Plants adjust better to slow temperature changes than sudden cold blasts. Gradual cooling allows plants to prepare, reducing the risk of damage.
Strengthen Plant Hardiness
Health and maturity: Well-established, healthy plants are more cold-hardy. Boost plant immunity: Use products like SUNSHINE-Epi to improve cold resistance. Apply it before and during cold snaps to protect your plants. Healthy plant is hardy. Make sure to fertilize your plants on regular basis - healthier and stronger plants are more cold hardy.
With these steps, you can protect your plants and help them survive the winter months. Stay
warm and keep your garden thriving!
Podcast with Horticulturist Mark Hooten:
How to Protect Tropical Plants in Winter
💕How would you like to give a Valentine plant gift?
Choose the plant
If you already know what feels right, choose the plant now.
Sweetheart Hoya is a favorite for a reason, and there are other Valentine
plants to explore if you want options.
A good choice when you feel confident, love plants, or are gifting something
meant to live indoors.
Let your Valentine choose
If timing, weather, or choice feels uncertain, a Gift Card keeps the moment simple. Your Valentine can choose the
perfect plant when the time is right.
Especially helpful for gardeners up north, or when you want the gift to
unfold later.
About shipping and timing
We ship live plants with care and pay close attention to weather along the
way.
If conditions are not right, we may hold a shipment briefly to keep plants
safe.
If timing or weather makes you hesitate, a Gift Card is an easy way to give a Valentine gift now and choose the
plant later, when conditions are perfect.
Valentine Day Gift Card Bonus
To make Valentines Day a little sweeter, we are offering a special gift
card bonus for a limited time.
When you purchase a gift card, we add 15% extra
value. Just add Valentine greeting in gift card message field.
For example, a $100 gift card becomes $115 to spend.
Offer valid through 02/15/2026.
The bonus value is not valid with other promotions or discounts. Gift
cards cannot be used to purchase other gift cards. Bonus value is added at
the
time of purchase.
🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival
Guide. Part 3. Watering and Humidity. ❄️
💦
Water, Humidity, and the Small Things That Decide Who Makes It to
Spring
Smokey: "Still damp. No watering today."
Sunshine: "Great. I am excellent at not watering."
Smokey: "You have been practicing not doing any work your whole life."
Most winter losses come from good intentions and habits that worked fine outdoors or in summer, but fail indoors when growth slows.
Watering: Where Most Indoor Plants Die in Winter
If there is one winter skill that matters more than anything else, it is knowing when not to water.
In winter, light is weaker, temperatures are lower, roots stay cold longer, and growth slows or stops. Plants simply do not drink the way they do in summer.
How winter watering actually works
Do not water on a schedule. Winter does not care about your calendar.
Instead:
Water thoroughly when you do water.
Let excess drain out.
Then wait longer than feels comfortable.
Before watering, test the soil with your finger. Water only when the top inch or so is dry.
If the soil below still feels cool and damp, do nothing. That is the hardest skill to learn.
Remember what we covered in Part 1: in winter, soil and roots stay cold much longer. Cold roots absorb water very slowly. Wet, cold soil is not helpful moisture. It is stress.
Waiting is often the correct move.
Common winter watering traps
The soil surface looks dry, but the root ball is still wet.
Pots near windows dry unevenly.
Large pots stay wet for weeks.
Always check below the surface. If the pot feels cold and heavy, roots are not asking for water yet.
Signs you are watering too much
Soil stays wet for many days.
Pot feels heavy long after watering.
Leaves yellow and soften.
Fungus gnats appear.
As a rough guideline, most indoor tropicals need 25 to 50 percent less water than summer, sometimes even less in low light.
Always use room temperature water. Cold water shocks roots and slows recovery.
Humidity: Invisible Winter Stress
Winter indoor air is dry. Often far drier than people realize.
Heating systems pull moisture out of the air, and many homes sit at 20 to 30 percent humidity all winter. Most tropical plants prefer something closer to 50 to 60 percent.
Low humidity rarely kills plants outright. It weakens them first. That is why pests show up more often in winter. The plant is already stressed before insects arrive.
What low humidity looks like
Brown or crispy leaf edges.
Curling leaves.
New leaves stuck while unfolding.
Spider mites appearing suddenly.
What actually helps
Group plants together.
Use pebble trays.
Run a room humidifier.
Use bathrooms if light allows.
Humidity works best when plants are grouped. One isolated plant in dry air struggles far more than a group sharing moisture.
Misting leaves feels helpful, but it only raises humidity for minutes. It does not fix dry air.
Cleaning Leaves: More Important Than It Sounds
Winter light is already weak. Dust makes it worse.
Dusty leaves block light, clog stomata, and create hiding places for pests.
Wiping leaves is one of the simplest winter care steps, and one of the most ignored.
How to clean
Soft cloth.
Plain water.
Mild soap if needed.
Gently wipe. No scrubbing. Every few weeks is enough.
Plants with fuzzy leaves, like African violets, should only be brushed gently with a dry brush.
Clean leaves also make problems easier to see. You will spot mites, scale, or damage early instead of discovering it weeks later.
Winter is not the season to be surprised.
Soil and Pots Behave Differently Indoors
Soil that works outdoors often behaves badly indoors. No wind, lower evaporation, and cooler roots mean the same soil stays wet far longer than expected.
In winter, roots care more about oxygen than water. Soil that stays wet pushes oxygen out, even if the plant looks fine above the soil line.
This is why rot often appears suddenly in late winter, not right after watering mistakes.
Pot size matters
Large pots dry slowly. Slow drying plus cool soil equals rot.
If a plant is barely growing, a very large pot is not doing it any favors.
About repotting
Winter is not the time to repot unless you must.
Only repot if:
Roots are rotting.
Pests are severe.
The plant is clearly failing.
Repotting in winter slows recovery and often makes things worse.
Airflow: Quietly Important
Indoor winter air is still. Still air leads to mold, fungus, and spider mites.
Airflow is not about cooling plants. It is about breaking stagnant air layers that pests and fungus love.
A small fan on low, not blowing directly on plants, makes a big difference. Even gentle movement helps more than people expect.
Drainage and Mold: Boring but Critical
Never let pots sit in water.
Standing water causes root rot, fungus gnats, and mold smell. Always empty trays after watering.
Raise pots slightly so air can move underneath. It helps more than people expect.
If you smell sour soil or a musty odor, something is staying wet too long. That smell is an early warning, not a minor issue.
Fertilizer: Mostly Stop
This is where a lot of winter damage happens.
If a plant is not actively growing, fertilizer does not help. It hurts.
In winter, most indoor tropicals are in maintenance mode, not growth mode. Feeding during this time leads to salt buildup, root burn, and weak, floppy growth.
Green leaves do not mean the plant is growing. They often just mean the plant has not given up yet.
Growth shows up as new leaves, longer stems, or expanding roots. No growth means no feeding.
When light feeding is acceptable
Only if all of these are true:
The plant is warm.
Light is strong.
You see real new growth.
Even then, feed lightly and less often than summer.
Spring will come. You do not need to force it.
Common Winter Care Mistakes
Watering on a schedule.
Misting instead of humidifying.
Fertilizing to fix poor light.
Ignoring cold windowsills.
Placing pots on cold tile or stone.
Repotting out of boredom.
Letting trays stay wet.
Assuming green leaves mean growth.
Assuming winter leaf drop always means death.
Quick Winter FAQ
My soil stays wet forever.
Too little light, too cold, or pot too large. Water less.
Leaves are crispy but soil is wet.
Low humidity combined with overwatering.
Should I mist every day?
No. Fix the air, not the leaves.
Can I fertilize just a little?
Only if the plant is clearly growing.
Why do I suddenly have fungus gnats?
Wet soil indoors is the invitation.
My plant looks fine but has not grown in months. Is that bad?
No. Stability is success in winter.
Date: 16 May 2024
When Bigger
means Better
Everybody loves shopping online nowadays, and plants are no exception.
Buying plants by mail order is not uncommon anymore; it only takes one click,
and luckily, there are many sources - from big shopping malls like Amazon to
small backyard nurseries that sell their seedlings on eBay or Facebook - all
delivered to your door. But plants are alive... So when doing your online
plant shopping, you must ensure that you fully enjoy your experience and are
happy with a healthy plant that a) doesn't die; b) recovers quickly; and c)
starts growing fast, so you can see flowers and fruit as soon as possible.
The rule of thumb for shipping plants: bigger plants undergo shipping
better, experience less stress, less leaf drop, and recover quicker than plants
with smaller root systems. So when it comes to buying plants online, the
bigger, the better. Unfortunately, many mail-order plant sources may sell you a
tiny twig that has very few chances of surviving. Shipping is very expensive
today, so shipping a bigger size plant may cost more than the plant
itself.
Below is a piece of advice on how to make the best plant selection for
your garden...
1. Find a source with bigger plants. Check reviews, ask friends
for recommendations, inquire from the company about the size of their plants
and how they pack their plants for shipping. TopTropicals offers well-established, strong plants with developed root
system, in container sizes 1, 3, 7, 15 gallon, directly from a tropical
Florida growing farm. Our unique plant-packing techniques are state of the art!
2. Price not always reflects the size and quality of the plant
TopTropicals offers many deals, discounts and sales, while still
providing the biggest and strongest plants grown in real tropical conditions.
3. Most fruit trees must be grafted to produce good fruit. Make
sure you are not purchasing a seedling when it comes to Mango, Avocado,
Peaches and some other trees with named varieties that don't come true to seed. TopTropicals offers only grafted - Mango,
Avocado and a large number of other tropical cultivars.
4. Pick up when possible from the nursery your ordered from, or
get a delivery, instead of shipping the plants. A drive to the nursery will save you more time and money in the
future, plus you can hand-pick the biggest and healthiest specimens. TopTropicals is open 7 days a week for your convenience. Visit our Ft Myers Garden Center or Sebring Farm to select the biggest plants.
5. Take advantage of X-Large size plant material if you live
outside the tropical zone and are trying to zone-push your tropical garden.
Bigger plants will establish faster and have more chances to survive cold winters.
Again, it will save you money in a long run (although bigger plants may be
more expensive, but their survival rate is much higher when it comes to cold
nights). TopTropicals offers X-Large flowering and fruiting trees (7-15-25
gallons), and most of the varieties you see in our online
store can be custom-ordered in big sizes. Delivery and installation
available.
Photo above: Magnolia champaca - Joy Perfume Tree in 25 gal container.
Date: 15 Jan 2026
When the Black Bat Lily decides to
bloom
Every so often a plant blooms and the whole greenhouse seems to slow
down.
That is what happened this week with the Black Bat Lily, Tacca
chantrieri. We have grown Taccas for years, but
when the black ones open properly, it still feels special. The flowers are
dark and quiet, almost unreal up close. They do not shout for attention.
They make you lean in.
Right now, we have a lot of them blooming at the same time. If you have
never seen one in person, photos only get you part of the way there. The
wings are darker than you expect, and the whiskers seem to go on forever.
People walk into the greenhouse, stop, stare, and usually ask the same
question:
"Is that real?" - Yes. It is.
A quick honest note, because this matters. The blooms themselves are
delicate and may not travel well. That is just the nature of this plant. The
plants, however, are strong, well established. With the right conditions,
they bloom again. This is not a one-time trick.
Black Tacca is not a beginner houseplant, but it is also not impossible.
It likes filtered
light, steady warmth, and humidity. It does especially well in a greenhouse
or a
bright indoor spot where you already keep plants that enjoy moisture. It is
the kind of plant you keep
close, not one you forget in the corner.
We are offering them now simply because they are ready and looking their
best. If you have been waiting for one,
this is a good moment.
You can see the Black Bat Lily here:
https://toptropicals.com/store/item/2345.htm
Just wanted to share something we are enjoying in the greenhouse right
now. Some plants come and go. Some stay with you.
Tacca (Bat Lily) FAQ
What is Tacca?
Tacca, also known as Bat Lily or Devil Flower, is a tropical plant grown
for its unusual bat-shaped flowers with long whisker-like filaments. The
most popular species
is Tacca chantrieri, the Black Bat Lily.
Is Tacca hard to grow?
Tacca is not a beginner plant, but it is not impossible. It does best
with warmth, humidity, and filtered light. Gardeners who
already grow orchids, calatheas, or other humidity-loving plants usually do
well
with Tacca.
Does Tacca need a greenhouse?
A greenhouse is ideal, but not required. Tacca can be grown indoors in a
bright spot with indirect light and good humidity, such as near a humidifier
or in a bright bathroom with a window or skylight.
Will my Tacca arrive in bloom?
Plants may be blooming in the greenhouse, but flowers are often removed
before shipping because they are
delicate and do not travel well. The plants are well established and capable
of blooming again with proper care.
How often does Tacca bloom?
Tacca does not bloom constantly. It may take time to establish before
flowering, but once settled, it can bloom seasonally and may produce
multiple flowers
in warm, humid conditions.
Does Tacca grow from a bulb?
Tacca grows from a rhizome, not a bulb. The rhizome stores energy and
allows the plant to regrow and bloom again.
Why does Tacca have long whiskers?
The long filaments are thought to help attract pollinators such as flies
by mimicking the look of decaying organic matter. While unusual, this is
part of the plant's natural pollination strategy.