From
Mark, the Garden Whiz. Since working in the
horticultural field for nearly 50 years, at either
nurseries or botanical gardens both in Florida and
southern California, I have come into contact with a LOT
of very cool plants. So many of them in-fact, that it's
becoming increasingly difficult to run across new ones
that really make me take special notice. Since being at
Top Tropicals for a while now, there are a few species I
had not met before which really stand out. Among them are
a couple of kinds of Portlandia. Continue reading...
Q:
A few months ago, i was given a Hoya vine. At the time, I
was told to not cut-off the flowers but was never told
why. However now that it IS flowering, they are so
wonderful I would like to. Is there really a reason to not
clip them off?
A:
Actually, that was very good advise. Unlike most plants we
encounter, hoyas develop perennial flower spikes. This
means that each spike flowers more than just once! In
other words, after the flowers on such a spike have gotten
old and fall off, the knobby ended spike remains. Then,
after a period of time, that same spike will develop
another ring of flower buds. Depending on what kind of
hoya it is, these perennial flower spikes may continue to
periodically make more flowers for several years! And
while the plant will continue to make more of these
perennial spikes its whole life, the flowering display
becomes better all the time as more and more spikes grow.
(By the way, these are technically called "flowering
spurs"). So every time a spur might be cut for ornamental
purposes, it'll be one less place the vine can flower from
in future years.
Cheena is a natural hybrid between jackfruit and
chempedak. Comes true from seed.
This highly recommended variety has grown in TopTropicals
garden from a seedling of Cheena (Jackfruit x Chempedak)
that fruited within 3 years from planting. The fruit
(20-25" size) is probably the best we ever tasted! It is
super sweet, crunchy and has a rich, pleasant, excellent
flavor. It has very little latex which makes it easy to
handle when cutting up. The tree produces at the very base
of the trunk, so you can prune it as short as you want.
Our tree survived light frosts as well as 48 hours of 3ft
flooding, with no damage!
The tree has an open, low and spreading growth habit and
can be maintained at a height and spread of 8 ft with
annual pruning. It is very easy to grow and is not as cold
hardy as we thought for a Jackfruit x Chempedak types of
plants. The only two recommendations are - good fertilу
soil with a high content of compost and regular watering.
Cheena is a consistent producer. The fruit is up to 5 lbs,
long, narrow and uniform in size and shape. The skin is
green, with blunt spines that yellow and open slightly
upon maturity.
Q: We have
lots of earthworms in our soil. I've heard they are beneficial for the
plants, it it true? Or should I try (and how) to get rid of them at least for
container plants?
A: From my
earliest childhood, I remember learning that "earthworms" are wonderful,
beneficial creatures for our gardens. I had heard that they improved the soil by
both aerating it via the tiny tunnels they dig from burrowing activities,
AND leaving their droppings which act as fertilizer. However, both my personal
experiences and studies have shown otherwise. The truth is that the vast
majority of earthworms we encounter in our daily horticultural practices are not
even native to North America. In fact, they were introduced from Europe,
beginning with the colonial period, mostly accidentally in things like the
ballasts of ships, and from soil from around the roots of plants being imported.
However, once they arrived here, they began to irreparably alter the natural
eco-systems of our forests... Continue reading...
Season Colors from Kristi, TopTropicals Flower Queen
Q: I live
in New Jersey and I have a collection of potted tropical plants in my sun
room. Our Fall season comes in bright colors, do you have something with
colorful foliage for Fall?
A: For our
northern customers it's almost time for the changing of the seasons. It is a
very exciting and enjoyable time. The onset of fall means, less humidity,
cooler nights and the Fall foliage. Here in Florida we do not get the chance to
see the changing of the leaves, except maybe a few like Florida Maple Tree. So we use plants that mimic the season change, for
all year round color! These are a few examples of the plants with colorful
leaves that you may use for your Fall colors, plus remember - there is always a
big list of Fall and Winter Flowering Tropicals!
1) Easy planting. No sweat. Enjoy your gardening fun during
cooler weather!
2) Easy shipping. With cooler weather, there are less chances for
the mail order plants to get overheated in transit or at your doorstep in
case you miss the delivery. But don't wait too long, another few weeks and too
much cold will put another restriction for deliveries up North.
3) Easy establishing. Stress-free roots = stress-free plants =
happy gardeners. Cooler weather is always better for planting and quick
establishing.
4) Easy maintenance. Plant growth rate slows down during cool
period, so your garden maintenance will be minimal.
5) Winter bloomers will brighten your days! Look at these winter-flowering plants that create a spectacular show during
Fall-Winter in subtropical climates. If you grow them as houseplants, this is
your chance to have flowers in Winter!
6) House plants Many tropical species suitable for indoor cultivation are available year round, but when you
buy them in Fall - they are in their fullest and best shape after Summer
vigorous growth.
Checklist - Preparing for winter in subtropical areas
Watering. Start reducing the amount you water your plants in
early fall, once the temperature drops below 65F. Avoid watering your plants
during cool nights, as this may cause serious root rot.
Mulch. When a plant is protected by a thick layer of mulch, the
root system stays healthy.
No Pruning. Avoid pruning, trimming, or pinching branch tips
altogether during the fall and winter which encourages new shoots that are soft,
tender, and very cold sensitive. Last trimming should be done no later than
September - early October.
No Fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers during the winter. The main
reason being the same as above for pruning: fertilizing promotes growth of the
upper plant parts which should be avoided during the winter months. The last
time for fertilizer should be no later than October.
1. Plant a
tree... or a shrub, even just a small perennial will do. This plant will
make you feel good and accomplished for the whole year, until next Labor Day
(or even longer!). You will always see this fruit of your work and remember
your motivation, so things are not that bad with you!
2. Pull 66 weeds.
Needless to say, you have plenty of those in your yard at the moment.
Why 66? Just do it and see what happens. If you don't see any happy results,
pull another 66.
3. Fertilize
all plants in your garden or potted collection with slow release fertilizer and microelements. Remember, this is the last chance to give them food and
strength to survive, before winter. Starting October, all leftover fertilizer
goes to storage, even in tropical gardens.
4. Apply SUNSHINE
booster to protect your plants from cool temperature, help to go into
dormancy and rest without stress.
Remember, there are products for all your pre-winter needs: Sunshine-T for improving cold tolerance, Sunshine-BC for caudex and bonsai plants, Sunshine-H for houseplants, and general booster Sunshine-E to cover all occasions... 50 and 100 ml bottles available for large plant collections.
Sunshine-Honey should be applied on all fruit trees to ensure their next
year successful crop.
5. Add extra
mulch in those areas where it was washed off with summer rains or broke
down. One day of mulch work will provide 6 months of safe overwintering for
your plants.
6. Have a BBQ
or simply a nice meal with your friends or family. Enjoy your holiday
relaxation after hard work weekend and recharge your Happiness for many days to
come.
Q: I have
an automatic sprinkler system that waters my lawn. I purchased a tree from
you and want to plant it in the middle of the back yard where sprinklers cover
that area very well. Will it be enough water? Is there any specific time of
the day I should set up the sprinklers and for how long?
A: Do not
rely on sprinkler system until the tree is established and starts growing.
Right after planting, saturate the soil around the root ball really well. If
the weather is hot, water with a garden house daily for at least a week. Once
the tree starts new growth, you may rely on sprinkler system.
Twice a day usually is enough, with 10-15 min of zone duration. As far
as start times of your irrigation system, water first time in early morning
(as early as 4-5 am in Summer time), and second time in late afternoon, when
it cools down a little bit. It is important to give leaves a chance to dry
before plants go to bed. This will help to eliminate fungus problems as fungus
develops in dark moist environment. Usually 4-5 p.m. is a good time for second
watering in Summer. As days get shorter, reschedule second watering time to
earlier hours.
Q: What a
hot summer we have... everything I plant in the ground seem to be unhappy and
doesn't seem to grow. I water a lot but it seems not enough? leaves stay
droopy or get burned. Are there any secrets for summer planting?
A: End of
Summer is still a good time for planting in the South, because there are a
few more warm months until winter and your plants need enough time to establish
before cold season. However because of high temperatures, a few things
should be avoid to reduce stress on the plant:
1. Do not plant mail-ordered plant directly from a box into the
ground. Keep it in a pot for a week or two and gradually move the pot from
shade into permanent location in full sun.
2. Do not expose to full time direct sun even if potted plant was
adjusted to sun. Cover newly planted tree with a shade cloth or simply a bed
sheet for a few days. Use bamboo stakes to support the cloth. Even tough,
sun-loving plants may get a leaf burn if not established.
3. Do not put mulch too close to the stem/trunk. Keep it 1-1.5
inches away from the plant for air circulation.
4. Do not keep wet. Combination of extreme heat and wet is not good
for roots (as well as cold and wet). If you notice that soil dries too
quickly - water more frequently but lightly, without creating soggy hot
swamp.
5. Do not overfertilize. A handful of slow-release fertilizer is
good at time of planting, however do not try to push your plant to grow and
do not apply more chemicals or manure until you see a new growth.
6. Do not get discouraged and give the plant some time to
establish. In most cases, a new growth starts with roots which you can't see.
Sometimes it takes a few months until you see the upper part of the tree suddenly
starts growing rapidly.
