Information on new exotic fruit variety:
Artocarpus x integer (Jackfruit x Chempedak), Cheena cv. TopTropicals

FRESH SEEDS! Grow exotic Chempedak from seeds and you will have the trees for only $1 each!

Check out a short video of the opened fruit.

Cheena is a natural hybrid between jackfruit and chempedak. Comes true from seed. This highly recommended variety has grown in TopTropicals garden from a seedling of Cheena (Jackfruit x Chempedak) that fruited within 3 years from planting. The fruit (20-25" size) is probably the best we ever tasted! It is super sweet, crunchy and has a rich, pleasant, excellent flavor. It has very little latex which makes it easy to handle when cutting up. The tree produces at the very base of the trunk, so you can prune it as short as you want. Our tree survived light frosts as well as 48 hours of 3ft flooding, with no damage!
The tree has an open, low and spreading growth habit and can be maintained at a height and spread of 8 ft with annual pruning. It is very easy to grow and is not as cold hardy as we thought for a Jackfruit x Chempedak types of plants. The only two recommendations are - good fertilу soil with a high content of compost and regular watering.
Cheena is a consistent producer. The fruit is up to 5 lbs, long, narrow and uniform in size and shape. The skin is green, with blunt spines that yellow and open slightly upon maturity.

Check out Chempedak Cheena seeds - FRESH - FRESH - FRESH
Check out Chempedak Cheena plants - special offer $30 OFF!

How to get Passion Vine to flower?
From Mark Hooten, the Garden Whiz

Q: Several months ago, I purchased a passionflower vine, a red one with lots of flowers. I ended up putting it in a much larger pot with a large trellis, using a popularly advertised bagged potting soil recommended at a big box store. I have given it a blue colored water-soluble fertilizer every couple of weeks as recommended. However, while the vine seems very happy, growing faster than i can keep winding it around the trellis, it has not flowered all summer. I there something I am doing wrong?

A: Passionvines as a group (and there are some 500 different kinds!) are sort-of unusual among popularly grown ornamentals because they have "nitrogen issues". This is because, even though unrelated, they are much like most legumes, as they maintain a symbiotic relationship with certain beneficial soil bacteria which allows them to gather atmospheric nitrogen and store it in their roots. When they have an overabundance of nitrogen, they simply stop flowering and produce rampant leafy growth while never flowering. They only flower well after a period of healthy vine growth, because the plant had finally used up all of its stored nitrogen.
Since you had both used a bagged potting soil which likely already contained fertilizer with nitrogen added, as well as bi-monthly doses of a liquid fertilizer which also contains nitrogen, it has been receiving so much nitrogen it only knows to grow more vineage until the nitrogen is used up. If and when that happens, it will again begin to flower. This rule applies of course not only to flowering but also to fruiting varieties of Passiflora: the more flowers, the more fruit you get!
So the answer is - for the time being, just stop giving it supplemental fertilizer and it will start flowering for you sooner than later!

See all passion vines from TopTropicals.

A Sacred Earthworm: benefit or damage?

by Mark Hooten

Q: We have lots of earthworms in our soil. I've heard they are beneficial for the plants, it it true? Or should I try (and how) to get rid of them at least for container plants?

A: From my earliest childhood, I remember learning that "earthworms" are wonderful, beneficial creatures for our gardens. I had heard that they improved the soil by both aerating it via the tiny tunnels they dig from burrowing activities, AND leaving their droppings which act as fertilizer. However, both my personal experiences and studies have shown otherwise. The truth is that the vast majority of earthworms we encounter in our daily horticultural practices are not even native to North America. In fact, they were introduced from Europe, beginning with the colonial period, mostly accidentally in things like the ballasts of ships, and from soil from around the roots of plants being imported. However, once they arrived here, they began to irreparably alter the natural eco-systems of our forests... Continue reading...

Season Colors from Kristi, TopTropicals Flower Queen

Q: I live in New Jersey and I have a collection of potted tropical plants in my sun room. Our Fall season comes in bright colors, do you have something with colorful foliage for Fall?

A: For our northern customers it's almost time for the changing of the seasons. It is a very exciting and enjoyable time. The onset of fall means, less humidity, cooler nights and the Fall foliage. Here in Florida we do not get the chance to see the changing of the leaves, except maybe a few like Florida Maple Tree. So we use plants that mimic the season change, for all year round color! These are a few examples of the plants with colorful leaves that you may use for your Fall colors, plus remember - there is always a big list of Fall and Winter Flowering Tropicals!

Colorful tropical plants for Fall

See Fall and Winter Flowering Tropicals.

6 reasons to buy tropical plants in Fall

1) Easy planting. No sweat. Enjoy your gardening fun during cooler weather!

2) Easy shipping. With cooler weather, there are less chances for the mail order plants to get overheated in transit or at your doorstep in case you miss the delivery. But don't wait too long, another few weeks and too much cold will put another restriction for deliveries up North.

3) Easy establishing. Stress-free roots = stress-free plants = happy gardeners. Cooler weather is always better for planting and quick establishing.

4) Easy maintenance. Plant growth rate slows down during cool period, so your garden maintenance will be minimal.

5) Winter bloomers will brighten your days! Look at these winter-flowering plants that create a spectacular show during Fall-Winter in subtropical climates. If you grow them as houseplants, this is your chance to have flowers in Winter!

6) House plants Many tropical species suitable for indoor cultivation are available year round, but when you buy them in Fall - they are in their fullest and best shape after Summer vigorous growth.

One the photo: Barleria cristata Striped Lavender Lace.

Checklist - Preparing for winter in subtropical areas

Watering. Start reducing the amount you water your plants in early fall, once the temperature drops below 65F. Avoid watering your plants during cool nights, as this may cause serious root rot.

Mulch. When a plant is protected by a thick layer of mulch, the root system stays healthy.

No Pruning. Avoid pruning, trimming, or pinching branch tips altogether during the fall and winter which encourages new shoots that are soft, tender, and very cold sensitive. Last trimming should be done no later than September - early October.

No Fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers during the winter. The main reason being the same as above for pruning: fertilizing promotes growth of the upper plant parts which should be avoided during the winter months. The last time for fertilizer should be no later than October.

6 Things to Do on Labor Day Weekend

1. Plant a tree... or a shrub, even just a small perennial will do. This plant will make you feel good and accomplished for the whole year, until next Labor Day (or even longer!). You will always see this fruit of your work and remember your motivation, so things are not that bad with you!

2. Pull 66 weeds. Needless to say, you have plenty of those in your yard at the moment. Why 66? Just do it and see what happens. If you don't see any happy results, pull another 66.

3. Fertilize all plants in your garden or potted collection with slow release fertilizer and microelements. Remember, this is the last chance to give them food and strength to survive, before winter. Starting October, all leftover fertilizer goes to storage, even in tropical gardens.

4. Apply SUNSHINE booster to protect your plants from cool temperature, help to go into dormancy and rest without stress.
Remember, there are products for all your pre-winter needs: Sunshine-T for improving cold tolerance, Sunshine-BC for caudex and bonsai plants, Sunshine-H for houseplants, and general booster Sunshine-E to cover all occasions... 50 and 100 ml bottles available for large plant collections.
Sunshine-Honey should be applied on all fruit trees to ensure their next year successful crop.

5. Add extra mulch in those areas where it was washed off with summer rains or broke down. One day of mulch work will provide 6 months of safe overwintering for your plants.

6. Have a BBQ or simply a nice meal with your friends or family. Enjoy your holiday relaxation after hard work weekend and recharge your Happiness for many days to come.

When and How Much to Water?

Q: I have an automatic sprinkler system that waters my lawn. I purchased a tree from you and want to plant it in the middle of the back yard where sprinklers cover that area very well. Will it be enough water? Is there any specific time of the day I should set up the sprinklers and for how long?

A: Do not rely on sprinkler system until the tree is established and starts growing. Right after planting, saturate the soil around the root ball really well. If the weather is hot, water with a garden house daily for at least a week. Once the tree starts new growth, you may rely on sprinkler system.
Twice a day usually is enough, with 10-15 min of zone duration. As far as start times of your irrigation system, water first time in early morning (as early as 4-5 am in Summer time), and second time in late afternoon, when it cools down a little bit. It is important to give leaves a chance to dry before plants go to bed. This will help to eliminate fungus problems as fungus develops in dark moist environment. Usually 4-5 p.m. is a good time for second watering in Summer. As days get shorter, reschedule second watering time to earlier hours.

6 things NOT to do in Summer planting

Q: What a hot summer we have... everything I plant in the ground seem to be unhappy and doesn't seem to grow. I water a lot but it seems not enough? leaves stay droopy or get burned. Are there any secrets for summer planting?

A: End of Summer is still a good time for planting in the South, because there are a few more warm months until winter and your plants need enough time to establish before cold season. However because of high temperatures, a few things should be avoid to reduce stress on the plant:

1. Do not plant mail-ordered plant directly from a box into the ground. Keep it in a pot for a week or two and gradually move the pot from shade into permanent location in full sun.

2. Do not expose to full time direct sun even if potted plant was adjusted to sun. Cover newly planted tree with a shade cloth or simply a bed sheet for a few days. Use bamboo stakes to support the cloth. Even tough, sun-loving plants may get a leaf burn if not established.

3. Do not put mulch too close to the stem/trunk. Keep it 1-1.5 inches away from the plant for air circulation.

4. Do not keep wet. Combination of extreme heat and wet is not good for roots (as well as cold and wet). If you notice that soil dries too quickly - water more frequently but lightly, without creating soggy hot swamp.

5. Do not overfertilize. A handful of slow-release fertilizer is good at time of planting, however do not try to push your plant to grow and do not apply more chemicals or manure until you see a new growth.

6. Do not get discouraged and give the plant some time to establish. In most cases, a new growth starts with roots which you can't see. Sometimes it takes a few months until you see the upper part of the tree suddenly starts growing rapidly.

Care for a Baobab Bonsai

Q: How to grow Baobab bonsai properly? How long does it take to shape a nice little bonsai tree?

A: Baobab, or Adansonia digitata, is a unique addition to a bonsai collection. Native to Africa, it has an unusual structure and appearance. Some legends say that the tree was cast down from the heavens and landed upside down, where it began to grow. This story is no doubt a result of its appearance in the winter, when the upper branches of the tree look more like roots than treetops. The Baobab has some specific needs, but if you pay careful attention to its requirements, this tree is not difficult to grow and makes an excellent bonsai specimen.

1. Keep Baobab warm, it is sensitive to freeze.
2. Place Baobab in a bright, sunny window. Baobabs need at least six hours of full sunlight per day, so a window with a western or southern exposure is best. If your house doesn’t get enough light, supplement natural light with artificial grow lights. See article Indoor lighting for tropical plants.
3. Water Baobab regularly during the growing season whenever the soil is dry. Never water the tree when it is dormant (dropped leaves).
4. Feed Baobab a good-quality fertilizer about once a month. Apply micro-element solution SUPERFOOD once a month, as well as SUNSHINE-BC plant booster for Bonsai and Caudex plants.
5. Prune the branches of your Baobab bonsai as often as they need it to give the tree the shape you desire, pruning or pinching off branches that are growing at odd angles or are too long. Trim early in the spring before new growth appears.
6. Repot the baobab bonsai every year in Spring. Remove it from pot and trim the roots back by one-third of their length, completely removing any that are damaged or dead. Place it in a container that is twice the size of the root ball and fill the pot with a well-drained soil like Adenium Mix.

   It is believed that it takes forever to form a nice shaped tree, up to a few years. However if you provide warmth and bright light, branches grow very quickly, and an experienced bonsai hobbyist can make a unique specimen within 2-3 years. And then, the tree will stay with you for 5000 years - it can be passed from generation to generation!

   Check out this plant... with FREE shipping to all states!