Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 13 Aug 2020

Healthy Plant Food

Q&A from Mr Booster

Establishing Avocado Tree

Q: I received my avocado Wurtz tree yesterday. Per instructions I have put the tree in a pot first. However I am having difficulty deciding what to trim off. Yesterday I removed obvious damaged leaves. However as you can see, the leaves are lighter in some areas and contain yellow and red in some spots. What would you advise? Given this is a critical state as I do not want to shock the tree after the trip, I would like to do everything possible to protect it and ensure viability.

A: Your Avocado tree looks great and healthy overall. You've done excellent job planting it. Wurtz is a good, vigorous variety, while the tree is somewhat dwarf, great for containers.
You are right, it is the best for the tree to leave it alone and do not trim or remove leaves any more, until it starts showing new growth. Then it will be obvious what needs to be trimmed. Reddish/orange color of young leaves is normal. If any spots or dots - no need to remove those leaves yet. Wait until the plant grows more leaves. It needs them for photosynthesis, in order to become stronger.

Keep the tree in bright shade and gradually move from filtered sun to full sun. Water daily. Within a week or two after planting, you can start applying mild fertilizer and micro-elements. We recommend at this growth stage:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster
SUNSHINE SuperFood - Micro-element Plant Booster

SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster from Garden Series, or Combo Total Feed Collection - all nutrients in just one bottle, for fruit trees and edibles.

Date: 8 Jun 2019

Chosing a good avocado tree

TopTropicals.com

Q: I'm in coastal Broward County. I'm putting together an order on your web site, and one thing that I would like is an avocado tree. I'd like to have something as close to true "Hass" as possible. Which cultivar does well here in SE Florida, and is most like Hass in texture, creaminess, and flavor? I'm not a big fan of the yellow watery Florida avocados.

A: Mexican type of Avocado have dark skin and buttery texture, while Florida green fruit types (West Indian type, with smooth skin), have lots of delicious melting pulp, so it is a matter of preference.
In coastal Broward county you can grow a wide range of varieties since your climate is very mild, so you don't have select cold-hardy varieties like Winter Mexican, Brazos Belle or Joey, etc. Yet there are many interesting varieties that rare and much more exclusive than Hass, with the same, or even better, quality buttery fruit.

One of the most popular varieties - Brogdon, with red-purple colored pear-shaped fruit, very thin skin, and yellow buttery flesh. It is also very cold hardy.

Very interesting exotic avocado is Kampong - Sushi Avocado - see photo above. The flavor of this fruit very nice, oily, creamy, nutty, reminds of almonds. At the same time, it has solid consistency and if you cut a square it remains a shape of the square. It is the best Sushi Avocado! It tastes great as an appetizer when cut in squares with some shrimp cocktail sauce.

Three collectible varieties:
Anise - leaves that smell like Anise, very rare, the fruit is of excellent quality, creamy and buttery.
Bacon - a large Mexican variety with dark-skinned medium-sized fruits, and a rich creamy flavor. It has exceptional fruit that ripen in late fall and into spring, they are easy to peel and have a light, subtle flavor. Another outstanding feature of the Bacon avocado tree is its angelic sweeping branches which helps keep the tree shorter and easier to pick its fruit.
Nishikawa is a very hot seller! Oval fruit somewhat resembles Hass, but larger, and has very high oil content.

See all Avocado trees from our store


Recommended fertilizers:
Fruit Festival Plant Food - Super Crop Booster
Mango-Food - Smart Release Fruit Tree Booster

Date: 26 Oct 2018

Improving cold hardiness before winter: fertilizer and micro-elements

TopTropicals.com

Q: I live in New Jersey and it is getting cool here, with temperatures in the upper 40s, but my tropical plant collection is in a heated sunroom (still around 70s). Should I continue fertilizing my plants? And if yes, my second question about deciduous Sugar Apple tree. Should I continue fertilizing it until it drops leaves?

A: First of all, even though you live outside tropical climate, your plants enjoy warm temperatures year round, and can be treated like if they were in a Southern garden.
Plant nutrients, both macro-elements (regular fertilizer) and micro-elements (such as iron, manganese, magnesium, copper, and other elements) play an important role not only in overall plant health but also in plant hardiness.
The rule of thumb is, even in warm climates we cut off any fertilizer by the end of October. You still have time for the last treatment this year (next will be in March, or when your plants start showing new growth). You may apply just a bit of slow-release granulated fertilizer, or water-soluble by foliar spray, diluted 1/2 of label strength, to all evergreen species in your collection.
The most important application before winter is micro-elements and other plant boosters that will help you plant collection survive winter months with a shorter daylight and cooler temperatures. Now it is a perfect time to make these simple steps:

1) Miscro-element applications, any one of: Superfood, Iron Supplement, Greenleaf.
2) Sunshine-T application: for improving cold hardiness, plus immune system resistance to insects and deceases.
3) Sunshine-Honey application for all fruit trees to encourage bigger and sweeter fruit next year.

Regarding your second question. Deciduous tropical plants like Annonas, Adeniums, Plumerias, etc - do not need regular fertilizer at this time, however, go ahead and apply microelements Superfood complex, as well as Sunshine-Honey, while leaves are still green. These two will give a kick-start to provide better flowering in spring, and production of sweeter fruit later.

Check out SUNSHINE boosters - all with free shipping!

Date: 22 Oct 2025

Detailed Cassia and Bauhinia Care Guide

Young  Bauhinia  monandra  tree  blooming  with  clusters  of  pink  and  white 
 


orchid-like  flowers,  growing  at  Top  Tropicals  nursery  with  fresh  mulch  and 
 


drip  irrigation 
 


setup

Outdoor Cassia and Bauhinia Care

  • Light: Both Cassia and Bauhinia need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Cassias handle intense heat; Bauhinias can take light afternoon shade.
  • Soil: Use loose, fast-draining soil. Mix equal parts garden soil, coarse sand, and compost.
  • Watering: Keep evenly moist but never soggy. Cassias tolerate dry spells once established; Bauhinias prefer steady moisture. Water when the top inch feels dry.
  • Feeding: For profuse flowering, feed with liquid Sunshine Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering, year around. You may also apply Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months. Bauhinias and Cassias respond quickly to feeding.
  • Pruning: After flowering, prune lightly to shape and remove dead tips. Cassias can be trimmed to shrub form; Bauhinias stay bushy with pinching.
  • Mulch: Add a 2-inch mulch layer around the base to conserve moisture and prevent weeds, but keep mulch off the trunk.
  • Cold protection: Most Cassias handle brief frost; some Bauhinias like B. acuminata and B. monandra must be sheltered below freezing. For cold nights, cover with frost cloth or move containers into shelter.
  • Dormancy: Outside of tropics, most Bauhinias drop leaves in winter for a short period of time, right before flowering and are called "semi-deciduous". Cassias stay evergreen.

Indoor or Porch Care (cool-climate growers)

  • Container: Choose a sturdy pot with several drainage holes, one size larger than the root ball. Unglazed clay or thick plastic pots work best for heat regulation. Use a light, well-drained mix such as professional soilless mix Abundance. Both Cassias and Bauhinias dislike soggy roots. Add a thin layer of coarse gravel at the bottom to improve drainage. Repot every 1–2 years in spring
  • Light: Brightest spot possible - south-facing window or heated sunroom. Supplement with a grow light if sunlight is weak.
  • Temperature: Keep potted trees in warm environment for best results. The optimum temperature for Cassias and Bauhinias is between 60–85 F, although many species can tolerate cooler temperatures. Avoid cold drafts and sudden drops.
  • Humidity: Average indoor humidity is fine; occasional misting keeps foliage glossy.
  • Watering: Water sparingly in winter when growth slows; allow the top inch to dry between waterings. Do not let roots sit in water.
  • Fertilizing: Feed with Sunshine Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering, year around, to maintain flowering indoors. You may also apply Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months.
  • Pest watch: Check undersides of leaves for aphids or whitefly. A light spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap clears them fast.

"Whether you crave golden summer fireworks or soft orchid blooms that last nearly all year, both Cassia and Bauhinia bring pure joy to the garden. 💖 Bring color that never quits."

Did you know: Fall is the best planting season — roots grow faster and you’ll have flowers by spring!

✔️ Fall Planting Guide

🛒 Shop Tropical Flowering trees

Date: 1 Jan 2026

Why young trees need staking?

Mango trees with bamboo support

Mango trees with bamboo support

Staking young trees

Staking young trees

🌳 Why young trees need staking?



Staking a young tree is simple but important. The goal is to attach a bamboo stake to support the trunk, encourage straight growth, and-most importantly-prevent the stem from wiggling.

Young trees grow fast and vigorously, but their trunks are often much taller and heavier than their root systems can support. At the same time, those trunks are still thin and flexible. Even light wind can cause the tree to rock back and forth. This movement disturbs developing roots and slows establishment.
  • ❗️ Without proper support:


  • 🔹 The trunk can break in strong wind.
  • 🔹 Roots loosen instead of anchoring.
  • 🔹 The trunk may grow crooked.
  • 🔹 The tree becomes uneven and less stable long-term.


🌳 How to stake correctly

  • 🌳 Small trees


  • 🔹 Create an A-frame with one bamboo stake.
  • 🔹 Attach near the top, forming a triangle.
  • 🔹 Do not push the stake right next to the trunk. It may look neat, but it can damage roots and will not provide proper stability.


🌳 Medium trees

  • 🔹 Use 2-3 tie points along the trunk.
  • 🔹 Use soft green garden tape, 1/2" wide.
  • 🔹 Secure firmly but allow slight movement.


🌳 Tall or heavy trees

  • 🔹 Use a strong support such as a metal pipe. We use 1" aluminum electrical conduit.
  • 🔹 Attach with wider green tape, about 1" to protect the bark.
  • 🔹 Build tripods around larger trees.


❗️ Important maintenance tips:

  • 🔸 Check ties and tape often-every few weeks to once a month.
  • 🔸 As the tree grows, re-adjust the tape so it does not cut into the trunk as it thickens and doesn't cause any rot.
  • 🔸 Re-position bamboo stakes as needed, and be ready to replace them with a larger, stronger stake as the tree grows.

These rules apply to both potted trees and trees planted in the ground. Proper staking early on helps your tree establish faster, grow straighter, and develop a strong, stable root system for the future.

📸 Mango trees in 7 gal pots with "nursery-style" bamboo stakes that create a neat "standard". When stepping up or planting in the ground, attach a new stake and keep it away from the trunk.

🛒 Explore fruit trees and flowering trees

#Food_Forest #Trees #How_to

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