October Tropical Garden: to do list

1. Prune. Last pruning before winter. Check the trees and shrubs one more time. Cut away dead wood and remove crossing limbs and branches.

2. Mulch. Continue to mulch to stop weeds and get ready for winter. Keep mulch 1-2 inches away from the stems. Evenings are starting to cool, so it is more comfortable working in the garden.

3. Pest control. Check for mealy bugs and scales. Remember that a garden with many kinds of plants has fewer pests than gardens with lots of mass plantings. So keep up with variety! Avoid pest magnets like Oleander, Oak, Hibiscus which require constant spraying.

4. Propagation. You still can take cuttings but do it as soon as possible. Days are getting shorter and less sunlight signals thу plants to slow down their growth. Cuttings will not root as quickly.

5. Seeds. Consider growing vegetables and perennials from seeds. In mild cooler conditions, seedlings have less stress and get a good start.

Information on new exotic fruit variety:
Artocarpus x integer (Jackfruit x Chempedak), Cheena cv. TopTropicals

FRESH SEEDS! Grow exotic Chempedak from seeds and you will have the trees for only $1 each!

Check out a short video of the opened fruit.

Cheena is a natural hybrid between jackfruit and chempedak. Comes true from seed. This highly recommended variety has grown in TopTropicals garden from a seedling of Cheena (Jackfruit x Chempedak) that fruited within 3 years from planting. The fruit (20-25"size) is probably the best we ever tasted! It is super sweet, crunchy and has a rich, pleasant, excellent flavor. It has very little latex which makes it easy to handle when cutting up. The tree produces at the very base of the trunk, so you can prune it as short as you want. Our tree survived light frosts as well as 48 hours of 3ft flooding, with no damage!
The tree has an open, low and spreading growth habit and can be maintained at a height and spread of 8 ft with annual pruning. It is very easy to grow and is not as cold hardy as we thought for a Jackfruit x Chempedak types of plants. The only two recommendations are - good fertilу soil with a high content of compost and regular watering.
Cheena is a consistent producer. The fruit is up to 5 lbs, long, narrow and uniform in size and shape. The skin is green, with blunt spines that yellow and open slightly upon maturity.

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Checklist - Preparing for winter in subtropical areas

Watering. Start reducing the amount you water your plants in early fall, once the temperature drops below 65F. Avoid watering your plants during cool nights, as this may cause serious root rot.

Mulch. When a plant is protected by a thick layer of mulch, the root system stays healthy.

No Pruning. Avoid pruning, trimming, or pinching branch tips altogether during the fall and winter which encourages new shoots that are soft, tender, and very cold sensitive. Last trimming should be done no later than September - early October.

No Fertilizer. Avoid fertilizers during the winter. The main reason being the same as above for pruning: fertilizing promotes growth of the upper plant parts which should be avoided during the winter months. The last time for fertilizer should be no later than October.

6 things NOT to do in Summer planting

Q: What a hot summer we have... everything I plant in the ground seem to be unhappy and doesn't seem to grow. I water a lot but it seems not enough? leaves stay droopy or get burned. Are there any secrets for summer planting?

A: End of Summer is still a good time for planting in the South, because there are a few more warm months until winter and your plants need enough time to establish before cold season. However because of high temperatures, a few things should be avoid to reduce stress on the plant:

1. Do not plant mail-ordered plant directly from a box into the ground. Keep it in a pot for a week or two and gradually move the pot from shade into permanent location in full sun.

2. Do not expose to full time direct sun even if potted plant was adjusted to sun. Cover newly planted tree with a shade cloth or simply a bed sheet for a few days. Use bamboo stakes to support the cloth. Even tough, sun-loving plants may get a leaf burn if not established.

3. Do not put mulch too close to the stem/trunk. Keep it 1-1.5 inches away from the plant for air circulation.

4. Do not keep wet. Combination of extreme heat and wet is not good for roots (as well as cold and wet). If you notice that soil dries too quickly - water more frequently but lightly, without creating soggy hot swamp.

5. Do not overfertilize. A handful of slow-release fertilizer is good at time of planting, however do not try to push your plant to grow and do not apply more chemicals or manure until you see a new growth.

6. Do not get discouraged and give the plant some time to establish. In most cases, a new growth starts with roots which you can't see. Sometimes it takes a few months until you see the upper part of the tree suddenly starts growing rapidly.

Care for a Baobab Bonsai

Q: How to grow Baobab bonsai properly? How long does it take to shape a nice little bonsai tree?

A: Baobab, or Adansonia digitata, is a unique addition to a bonsai collection. Native to Africa, it has an unusual structure and appearance. Some legends say that the tree was cast down from the heavens and landed upside down, where it began to grow. This story is no doubt a result of its appearance in the winter, when the upper branches of the tree look more like roots than treetops. The Baobab has some specific needs, but if you pay careful attention to its requirements, this tree is not difficult to grow and makes an excellent bonsai specimen.
1. Keep Baobab warm, it is sensitive to freeze.
2. Place Baobab in a bright, sunny window. Baobabs need at least six hours of full sunlight per day, so a window with a western or southern exposure is best. If your house doesn't get enough light, supplement natural light with artificial grow lights. See article Indoor lighting for tropical plants.
3. Water Baobab regularly during the growing season whenever the soil is dry. Never water the tree when it is dormant (dropped leaves).
4. Feed Baobab a good-quality fertilizer about once a month. Apply micro-element solution SUPERFOOD once a month, as well as SUNSHINE-BC plant booster for Bonsai and Caudex plants.
5. Prune the branches of your Baobab bonsai as often as they need it to give the tree the shape you desire, pruning or pinching off branches that are growing at odd angles or are too long. Trim early in the spring before new growth appears.
6. Repot the baobab bonsai every year in Spring. Remove it from pot and trim the roots back by one-third of their length, completely removing any that are damaged or dead. Place it in a container that is twice the size of the root ball and fill the pot with a well-drained soil like Adenium Mix.

It is believed that it takes forever to form a nice shaped tree, up to a few years. However if you provide warmth and bright light, branches grow very quickly, and an experienced bonsai hobbyist can make a unique specimen within 2-3 years. And then, the tree will stay with you for 5000 years - it can be passed from generation to generation!

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