Photo above: Avocado Joey - very buttery fruit, coldhardy variety.
Q: I bought an anise leaf-scented avocado from
you, and it is finally quite large and doing great. I live in California, the
coldest temperatures we seem to get in some winters is around 25 to 28F, and
it never lasts long. The tree might get a bit of frost nipping on the new
growth, but it has done very well. It has flowered profusely for the last two
years but hasn't set any fruit. What variety you might recommend to help with
pollinating?
A: We are glad your avocado is doing great. Anise is
one of our favorite varieties, with the wonderful smell of leaves and tasty
fruit.
Cold hardiness and flower quality
It is true that cold damage may affect avocado production, especially in
setting fruit. To improve the tree's cold hardiness, make sure to provide
balanced plant food, especially during the season of active growth. For our
avocado trees, we use Sunshine C-Cibus year-round.
If you prefer to use dry (granulated, slow-release) fertilizers, make
sure they contain micronutrients, or apply Sunshine Superfood microelement complex once a month.
To improve flower quality (including the ability to set fruit), we
recommend a special micronutrient supplement called Sunshine Honey. It contains Boron and Molybdenum - elements that are
responsible for setting fruit and for developing fruit (meaning not dropping at
the early stage of development).
Cross-pollination and crop
In general, every avocado tree is self-fertile, meaning it can produce
some fruit with its own pollen and doesn't necessarily require a second tree
for pollination. So even if you don't do anything, sooner or later your tree
will set fruit. However, it is also true that the amount of fruit and crop
reliability depends on pollination factors. One type of avocado classification
is by flowering and pollination behavior - type A or B.
When both types of trees are grown in proximity to each other, their
overlapping flowering patterns significantly enhance the chances of
cross-pollination. This can lead to improved fruit set and higher yield, making it
especially important for commercial production and, to a lesser extent, for home
growers.
Therefore, it's advisable to plant different varieties of avocado in
your garden - the more, the merrier! The greater the diversity of avocado trees
with overlapping flowering periods, the better your crop is likely to be. If
you're growing an avocado tree without other avocados nearby, it becomes
helpful to have more than one tree with different flowering patterns (A and B) to
increase yield in your garden.
To learn more about avocado types, fruit characteristics, cold hardiness
and much more, refer to our Avocado Variety Guide - a page with very convenient interactive chart
allowing you to quickly sort types of avocado by requirements of your choice
(just click on column header to sort data). You may also buy a Book or download a PDF.
"What is the best variety of Avocado?"
"Do you have the one with small black fruit and bumpy skin?"
"I have avocado with very large green fruit, what variety is it?"
These are frequently asked questions we get from our customers. This
basic "classification" by black/green doesn't encompass all the wonderful
qualities avocados have to offer. There are numerous hybrids in cultivation, and
once you plant your first tree and taste the REAL fruit (not from the grocery
store), you'll be eager to explore other varieties. While it's true that
avocado fruit can vary in "butter" content, most superior varieties are equally
delicious. First comes first -
The most popular Avocado varieties this year are:
1.
Brogdon - red-purple pear-shaped fruit, 7-15 oz. Skin is very thin,
yellow buttery flesh. Fruit ripens in late summer-fall. Very coldhardy.
2. Hass - probably the most popular, but this tree prefers drier climate
(Florida is humid, so we plant adaptable Florida Hass here). The fruit is
dark-colored with a rough and bumpy skin, turns black when ripe.
3.
Fuerte - a dwarf and a very cold hardy variety. Everybody's favorite
"Condo Avocado": perfect for container culture and small yards. The mature tree in
the ground is under 15 ft; 6-7 ft in containers.
4.
Oro Negro - Oro Negro means "black gold" in Spanish, which is an
incredibly appropriate name for this fruit. This Monroe hybrid (with big size
fruit) is crossed with a Mexican type which would explain the black skin. The
flesh is rich and buttery with a creamy texture.
5. Winter Mexican - one of most cold hardy varieties, Guatemalan x
Mexican origin. Mature trees may withstand temperatures in the mid 20s. Oblong
fruit, 12-18 oz, thick green skin. Very vigorous tree, bears heavily and
regularly in December-January.
Learn more: Avocado Variety Guide - check this out for interactive chart of Avocado
varieties and sort them by flower type A or B, tree habit, fruit shape and
quality, cold hardiness, origin, season and more!
How to protect Avocado from cold and how hardy is it?
Avocado tree fruiting indoors
❄️ How to protect Avocado from cold and how hardy is it?
Growing Avocado trees in cooler regions is possible with the right variety and care. By choosing Cold Hardy types and protecting them during cold spells, you can successfully grow avocados outside tropical climates. The more mature your tree, the better it handles the cold.
❄️ What is Avocado cold hardiness?
Most Avocados are sensitive to frost, but some Mexican varieties can survive lows around 15°F once established, and brief dips near 10°F with good care.
👉 Cold tolerance depends on:
✦ Duration of cold: Short freezes are easier to survive. ✦ Sun exposure: More sun means better cold resistance. ✦ Wind protection: Wind can do more harm than temperature alone. ✦ Tree health: Regular fertilization, such as Sunshine Boosters, helps strengthen plants.
❄️ How to protect avocados from cold
✦ Bigger is better: Mature trees resist cold better than young ones. ✦ Wind protection: Plant on the south or southeast side of a building for warmth. ✦ Good fertilization: Healthy trees are stronger and more resilient. ✦ Watering: Water less in winter; overwatering in cold weather can cause root rot.
❄️ Protection for young plants
✦ Cover and mulch: Before a freeze, mound mulch around the base and cover with a blanket. Add Christmas lights or a small heater for extra warmth (use caution). ✦ Use microclimates: Plant near walls or buildings where it’s warmer and wind is reduced.
With a little planning and protection, you can enjoy fresh avocados even in cooler climates!
✔️ Check outAvocado Variety Guide interactive chart. Sort them by flower type A or B, tree habit, fruit shape and quality, cold hardiness, origin, season and more!
Avocado Variety Guide: Snack or Guacamole?
Collector's inspiration
Photo above: It's NOT an
egg plant! It's a Red Russell :)
A comprehensive guide to Avocado varieties by:
flower type A or B, tree habit, fruit shape and quality, cold hardiness, origin, season and more!
Many gardeners who are eager to purchase their first avocado tree often wonder which variety to choose. Most people are
familiar with two primary classifications commonly found in grocery stores: Small & Black or Large & Green.
Frequently, we hear customers ask, "Do you have the one I like, the
smaller fruit with bumpy skin? Not that big, tasteless, and watery one!" What they may not realize is that this basic (but practical!) classification doesn't encompass all the wonderful qualities avocados have to offer. There are numerous hybrids in cultivation, and once you plant your first tree and taste the REAL fruit (not from the grocery store), you'll be eager to explore other varieties. It's a guarantee! While it's true that avocado fruit can vary in "butter" content and how "watery" or "buttery" it is, most superior varieties are equally delicious. Or perhaps
we should say they are so versatile and distinct in taste that you'll start building your collection of these trees, much like fruit enthusiasts do with mango
varieties.
Every garden has unique requirements based on climate, temperature, and property size. These factors must be considered before
planning your avocado garden. Additionally, many gardeners may wonder about Type A vs. Type B classifications and whether they need more than one tree to yield fruit. You'll find all this valuable information in our Avocado Variety Guide.
Basic classifications of avocados
1) By flowering pattern and pollination behavior: Type A and Type B
2) By origin: Mexican, Guatemalan, and West Indian (along with many hybrids)
3) By fruit appearance, texture and taste: Guacamole Avocado ("Smooth skin") and Snack Avocado
("California" or "Hass" type)
4) By growth habit: full size trees, free branching or upright,
semi-dwarf low growing, and dwarf ("condo avocados")
5) By cold hardiness: Cold sensitive (requiring frost-free
conditions), cold tolerant (able to withstand light frost), and cold hardy (capable of enduring some hard freezes once established)
6) By ripening season: Early or Spring (March-June), Mid or Summer (July-September), and Late or Fall-Winter (October-February).
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardyavocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.
