Q: I live in California and about a month ago ordered several plants from you, including fruit trees (Carambola, Mango, Avocado) and flowering trees (Xanthostemon, Adeniums, Champaca, Ylang Ylang). They were all doing well until I tried to move them into full sun, when they got leaf burn immediately. Ylang Ylang was doing great in a shade, but I repotted it from 1 gal into 3 gal and it is drooping leaves now. It has been very hot (over 100F) and dry (humidity is less than 25%). Any suggestions?

A: Hot summer can be pretty challenging time for establishing new plants. These are some guidelines to make your summer gardening more successful and rewarding.

1. You can order plants at any time, but keep your eye on your local weather forecast and try to chose cooler periods to schedule your plant shipments. Here at TopTropcals we monitor weather at destinations, and we can also delay shipment per your request until more favorable conditions.

2. During hot Summer months, many plants are still OK to ship, and to be planted, many species are heat tolerant. It's usually safe to ship most succulents, including Desert roses and Euphorbias. Some fruit trees are pretty easy too, like Loquats, Mango, Eugenias. Many flowering trees can take heat: Acacias, Clusias, Jatropha, Sausage Tree, Plumerias and many others. Check our full list of plants suitable for hot and dry conditions. Most jasmines, including Jasmine Sambac and Trachelospermum make also a safe choice for hot weather planting.

3. Use shade cloth or simply white sheets to protect young plants and new plantings from hot sun.

4. When establishing mail ordered plants during hot weather, keep them in shade for longer period of time than average recommended 1-2 weeks. Give them a chance to establish really well. In areas with low air humidity, try to create a simple mist system. It can be purchased in your local Home Depot for only $20 and set up takes only 10 minutes! It makes a big difference and can help you save many plants from hot weather stress.

5. Although it may seem that during hot weather plants need more water due to high evaporation, be careful with watering, and check soil with your finger before watering - don't water if it is still wet. Combination of "hot and wet" can be as harmful for the root system as "cold and wet" during winter. Protect root systems from overheating: covering black pots with white cloth will work. Remember when temperature is above 90F, most of plants slow down their metabolism, which means roots slow down or even stop pumping water and become more vulnerable to overwatering. For the same reason, do not hurry to step up into bigger container if roots haven't filled yet the existing pot.

Spring is coming, plants need food! Time to fertilize...

Last winter was long and snowy in the most part of our country. Hold on fellow gardeners up North, it is almost over!
Here in Florida we have been blessed again with a mild winter without serious cold snaps. Early Spring that is already in the air. Look at this picture of flowers in our front yard now.
If the weather is already warm in your area (low temperatures above 55), it is time to start fertilizing. We are sending our love and support to tropical Puerto Rico suffered from hurricane last year, and will be happy to help you guys to restore your lost gardens!

CHECK LIST

what to do to give your garden a good kick start:

1. Slow release granulated food. Apply Slow Release Fertilizer and continue once a month. 1 tsp per gallon of pot, or a handful for in-ground plants. This will provide essential macro elements (NPK) required for a plant growth.

2. Water soluble micro-elements. Besides macro-elements, plants need many other elements that most of the time missing in soil. A lack of micro-elements causes different deficiencies, resulting in weak root systems, slow growth, deformed leaves, leaves yellowing, lack or no flowers/fruit. Apply these supplements as a foliar spray once a month to induce healthy growth and flower/fruit development. We recommend the following micro-element products to keep your plants healthy and vigorous year round:
a) SUNSHINE SuperFood - plant health booster. This revolutionary new liquid complex contains ALL microelements needed and can fix all possible problems occuring to your tropical plants - from roots to flowers and fruit. We have convenient dropper bottles of 5 ml for small plant collections, 50 ml for larger gardens, and 100 ml for professional landscape applications.
b) SUNSHINE-Micro - Microelement booster - for common iron deficiency (pale leaves)
c) SUNSHINE-Super-Iron - Microelement booster - for severe iron deficiency (severe yellowing leaves)

3. SUNSHINE plant boosters - SUNSHINE-E, -BC (caudex plants and bonsai), -H (house plants). Apply these natural plant stimulants to help plants recover from cold, dormancy, increase plant's metabolism and make a plant more readily absorb both Macro- and Micro-elements. SUNSHINE boosters also will help plants grow vigorously, withstand Summer heat and drought, and produce bigger and better flowers and fruit.

4. Kickstart a sweeter fruit. To get a better and sweeter crop in Summer and Fall, you need to start first application now. SUNSHINE Honey - is natural, Amber-colored, honey-like liquid microelement product for fruiting and edible plants that will make them sweeter, tastier and more flavorful! Very effective for tropical fruits, tubers, vegetables. Great for tropical fruit trees: Mango, June Plum, Annonas, Tropical Cherries, Carambola, Citrus; subtropical fruit trees: Peaches, Apricots, Loquat and berry plants (blackberry, mulberry, etc.)

5. SUNSHINE-S. Don't forget to plant seeds! It's a perfect timing now to start your tropical garden indoors even if it is still cold outside. Soak them in SUNSHINE-S solution to increase germination rate.

See full list of SUNSHINE boosters. All these products are essential plant elements. They are not toxic and can be used safely for edible landscapes.

Cold protection - winter action for your plant collection

A note from our customer: Last winter was very cold here in Arizona, lower 30's. I used white synthetic sheets (called frost cloth, it is very light and yet effective) to cover my fruit trees, and kept simple light garlands on for the whole night. Sending you couple photos so you can share with others. It worked pretty well for my plants and no cold damage!

With winter approaching, it is time to take some actions to protect your rare plants from cold stress and damage.
If you live in a mild climate, you still need to get ready for the cold nights. When expecting a cold night, individual plants and trees can be wrapped with sheets, or blankets, to protect them from the wind chill. Christmas lights is a good idea for an additional warm up.

For large collections of tropical plants, temporary winter greenhouse doesn't have to be expensive. An easy-assembly mobile carport from a hardware store covered with a plastic or fabric will cost you $100-200. It can fit a hundred plants or more!

If you live in area with a hard freeze, Southern exposure windowsill will work for most of the compact tropicals providing proper care. Larger collections may also move into your garage for a few cold nights, or for longer periods if the garage has a bright light source.

Factors affecting tropical plant winter survival:

1. Duration of cold period. Tropical plants can't stand long periods of cold. A few days of even upper 30's may kill a tropical plant. A few hours of frost may cause leaf drop but the plant will recover.
2. Minimum temperature - of course, the warmer the better. But see 1) - if cold is not for too long, it may be OK.
3. Wind-chill can be more dangerous than low temperatures.
4. Exposure. Southern slopes get warm during daytime and stay warm longer.
5. Protection with a house, fence, larger trees - where a "pocket" of warm air forms and stays - is beneficial.
6. Humidity. A lake or a river nearby (especially ocean) will mild the micro-climate.
7. Individual species hardiness. Don't try to grow Orchid Tree outdoors in New York.
8. Plant maturity and health. A well-established plant with developed root system has more chances to survive cold. If a plant had a good change to develop during warm season (bright light, enough water, fertilizer), it will be more cold hardy. Healthy plant can withstand lower temperature, so proper nutrition is important, including micro-element applications. Large specimens, even ultra-tropical, may survive cooler winter than they normally do in their natural habitat. The Nature provided plants with better hardiness level than it is normally used. To boost plant immune system and improve cold tolerance even more, use SUNSHINE plant boosters. SUNSHINE-T - thermo-protection booster, is specially formulated for winter protection of tropical plants. To improve cold hardiness, spray 1-2 days prior to cold with 5 ml/1 gal solution and continue applications with 2.5 ml/1 gal solution every 10-15 days throughout winter period.
9. Gradual temperature decrease is less dangerous than a sudden drop since it gives a plant a chance to adjust. One sudden freeze in December with prior warm fall may create more damage than a gradual temperature adjustment. If it starts to get cold early in the Fall, plants slow down their metabolism, and the new tender growth won't get hurt later in winter, since the plants are "expecting" the cold.
10. Do not fertilize plants during cool months. Not only because they don't need much food beyond growing season, but also because fertilizer (especially Nitrogen) encourages rapid tender growth that will be damaged by cold and this will stress the whole plant.

Stay warm!

Our honest advise on Holiday Gift Plants

Q: Any suggestions on gift plants? With Holidays around the corner, I've been thinking of getting a present for my grandma, she lives in FL and is an experienced gardener. I also have a friend that lives in CA, also warm climate, but she doesn't have a green thumb. Any "easy" plants I can try for her?

A: Live plant is a perfect gift, as we all know. However when ordering a plant online as a present, for a happy experience, you should have three things to consider:
1) Gardener's experience. Planting instructions are included with every order, and usually success is there if you follow them. But all plants go through shipping stress (some more, others less) and need time, patience and love to recover. Also, a plant will need a new home after shipping: a pot and a good soil mix. It would be wise if you add potting mix with a gift order; the plant should be planted in a permanent pot as soon as possible, but normally can wait a day in a packing bag until its new owner gets a pot, if it is not ready yet.
2) How easy the plant is? If buying a plant for a beginner, chose something easy, as well as showy. Adeniums - Desert Roses, Jasmines, Clerodendrums, Cordylines are always a good choice. Calatheas, Gingers and Heliconias are always showy, even when not in bloom. Spice trees and herbs are fun, easy to grow and one can enjoy their aroma right away without waiting on them growing bigger. Miracle Fruit is an awesome present, it comes with detailed instructions how to grow the Miracle!
3) How easy the plant ships? Some plants can be easy in cultivation, but they don't take shipping well. After being in a dark box for a few days, most plants usually recover well in experienced hands. When making a present, you want something showy, not just a stick to arrive. Besides Adeniums and Jasmines, many fruit trees usually take shipping without a problem - such as Mango or Sapote trees. You may not want to start with Avocado, Papaya, Carambola, or Cacao - unless they go to an experienced grower - these may take some time and skill to etanblish. Fig trees are super easy in shipping, but figs may drop leaves in Winter - for this same reason, you may think twice about deciduous plants like Sugar Apples, Grapes, Mulberries or Persimmons to be sent as gifts. On the other hand, if you are sending a deciduous tree to a gardener who can appreciate the variety, this may be a good choice - dormant plants take shipping with less stress!

Holiday special: On the picture: Adenium Xmas Santa. A Holiday Special Desert Rose with Christmas-colored flowers - deep-red and white.

Still not sure which plant to choose? You may buy a Top Tropicals Gift Certificate, it ships well and has no expiration date!

Overwintering Adeniums outside of tropics

Q: We bought several adenium plants from you. We are moving to the Denver area of Colorado. How can we make sure the plants survive? Should we use a green house?

A: Adeniums are perfect container plants, and house plants. They can be easily grown outside of tropical climate. During winter, Adeniums drop leaves and go into dormancy which makes it easy to keep these plants in a dormant stage in a warm location of your house, or possibly even in well-lit spot of garage (with a window), with temperatures above 50-60F.
Here in South Florida, during time of cold, when chances of freeze are high, we move our own Adenium collection into lanai, with plastic sheet protection around lanai.

In colder climates, Adeniums can be kept indoors as house plants during winter. There are some requirements/tips for you:

• Temperature. Move Adeniums indoors when temperature starts dropping below 45F.
• SUNSHINE. Use SUNSHINE boosters to improve cold resistance of Adeniums, and essure healthy plant throughout winter. SUNSHINE-BC formula is specifically designed for plants with caudex, and bonsai.
• Water. Reduce watering to minimum, especially when plants drop leaves - this means they went into dormancy. Once a week light watering is enough. Water very carefully during cooler months. When it is hot (85-100F), excessive water usually won't harm adeniums: it will be partially used by a plant, and partially will evaporate. Especially be careful with water when temperatures drop below 65F - then tropical plants simply stop growing process and go dormant. Once adeniums start losing leaves, this is a sign to reduce watering to once a week to once a month, and in very small quantity (couple tablespoons per pot).
• Light. Bright light is not necessary, but do not keep them in dark either, even if all leaves dropped. Good light is necessary to maintain healthy stems and caudex. Keep in mind, the less light, the less watering too. Ideal spot is a windowsill, however if your space is limited and all windows occupied by other "leafy" plants, location close to window will be enough as long as watering is reduced, to avoid rot. We keep our big collection specimens on a roofed porch during winter, where level of light is very low. Last winter we haven't lost a single plant due to low light. They take shade pretty well considering minimum or no water. However bright light is always better - it creates healthier environment for a plant. We all know about space limitations for our large collections, especially in winter. So if you can afford a bright spot for adenium during winter - the plant will be lucky!
• Soil. Use only well drained mix with much higher content of perlite than you would use for most tropical plants. For adeniums, we use mix with 30-40% of perlite in it, while regular mix has 10-15%. Adeniums like alkaline soil, unlike most of tropical plants (hard to say what else likes alkaline... Ficus for sure!). This means, regular mix with high content of peat moss may cause root rot. To increase alkalinity, you may add dolomite. Here in Florida where we have natural supply of shell rock handy, it is easy to add some shell to a potting mix (shell sand, rather than quartz sand). We always add a few large shells on top of a pots with a big specimen. Besides increasing soil pH (making it more alkaline), shells look very decorative.
• Fertilizer. No fertilizer until Spring when plants start showing new growth and new leaves.
• Move your Adeniums outside in Spring, when chances of freeze are zero. More sunlight and air circulation is beneficial for breaking the dormancy and providing plants with a quick growth start.