Guava varieties: Pink flesh (upper left quarter), White flesh and Cas
(upper right quarter), Red Cattley Guava (bottom left quarter) and Golden
Cattley (bottom right quarter).
Let’s talk Guava. Few fruits check as many boxes: flavor,
productivity, health, and adaptability. We’ve grown guava trees at Top
Tropicals for years here in Florida, and it never fails to surprise people
with how
easy it is — and how quickly it rewards you.
🌿 Health Benefits
We know the first question: "Why guava in addition to all the other
fruit trees I could plant?" Because guava is one of the healthiest tropical
fruits you can eat and grow — and it produces faster than almost
anything
else.
Vitamin C powerhouse — guava has four times more vitamin C than
oranges. One fruit covers your daily needs and then some.
Potassium and fiber — good for balancing blood pressure and
keeping your heart strong.
Antioxidants like lycopene and vitamin C — these keep your skin
glowing and help protect your cells from damage.
Dietary fiber — aids digestion and helps keep blood sugar
steady.
Guava is a true "food as medicine" tree you can plant right in your
backyard or in pot.
♥️ Our Favorite Varieties are Available Now
We currently have a DOZEN excellent guava varieties in stock selected by
our plant expert Tatiana Anderson — something special for every
garden. Our top picks are:
Pink Guavas
Barbie Pink
– Yellow pear-shaped fruit with thick pink flesh, sweet and juicy.
Cold
hardy for a tropical fruit. The best seller.
Hong Kong
– Large, round, smooth pink fruit. Sweet flavor, very few seeds, and
very
productive.
Tikal
– Our top pick. Fast-growing, disease-resistant, and produces the
sweetest
pink guavas with very few seeds.
White Guavas
Indonesian White
– Aromatic, classic white-fleshed guava with an excellent
tropical flavor.
Kilo White
– Giant fruit up to 2 lbs (1 kilo) each! Few seeds, creamy white
flesh,
and fruits even in containers.
Brazilian Araca
Pera – Rare hybrid used for Guava Wine in Brazil. Tart,
concentrated juice makes excellent wine, sorbet, or jelly. Learn more...
Pineapple Guava,
Guavasteen – Feijoa sellowiana. Strongly perfumed fruit, best
enjoyed when the pulp is mixed with sugar – like forest strawberries.
Cold-hardy, tolerates freeze, and doubles as a great windbreak. Learn more...
Why starting tropicals from seed indoors is better than outside?
Q: I am in
Texas, it is getting cold, but I bought these seeds the last two packs, as I
didn't want to miss them, was looking for a long time and found you had
them. Should I wait until spring to plant them?
A: You can
grow tropical plants from seed year round and don't have to wait until warm
weather outside. It is, in fact, beneficial to start tropicals indoors in a
controlled temperature, moisture and humidity. Seeds of some species are very
sensitive to excess water and/or require a certain range of temperature for
germination... Besides, it's so much fun!
First, read the basics: Happy Hobby: growing tropicals from seeds
Advantages of indoor growing from seed
It is easier to keep under control indoors:
1) Temperature and Light. Although many tropical seeds require
higher temperature and bright light for germination (hot sun may help), it may
be hard to avoid overheating and drying out when you put trays in full sun.
Using heat pads and additional lighting indoors makes germination smooth, even
may take a little longer than in hot sun.
2) Soil moisture. If you ever lost your seeds or tiny seedlings
to a heavy summer rain, you sure will appreciate your own moisture-controlled
environment! Just make sure to use the right soil mix.
3) Air humidity. Indoor air is drier than outside. It may not be
best for some tropical plants, but definitely perfect for seed health - they
will never get moldy considering you keep your eye on the plantings.
4) Pre-treatment. Some seeds require scarification (sanding down
hard shell), others stratification (cold treatment), but all seeds will
benefit from
SUNSHINE-S soak before planting. It is easier to do in your home lab.
Based on our experience, using Sunshine pre-treatment reduces the risk of
fungal damage and improves germination from 30 to 65%.
5) After germination culture. Watching seedlings closely in your
home environment and giving them all that is needed for healthy, fast growth
- miscroelements and first fertilizer - will help to establish young plants just in time before
planting them out in Spring-Summer.
Light: Both Cassia and Bauhinia need at least 6 hours of direct
sunlight daily. Cassias handle intense heat; Bauhinias can take light
afternoon shade.
Soil: Use loose, fast-draining soil. Mix equal parts garden
soil, coarse sand, and compost.
Watering: Keep evenly moist but never soggy. Cassias tolerate
dry spells once established; Bauhinias prefer steady moisture. Water when
the
top inch feels dry.
Feeding:
For profuse flowering, feed with liquid Sunshine
Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering,
year around. You may also apply Green
Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months. Bauhinias and
Cassias respond quickly to feeding.
Pruning:
After flowering, prune lightly to shape and remove dead tips. Cassias can
be trimmed to shrub form; Bauhinias stay bushy with pinching.
Mulch:
Add a 2-inch mulch layer around the base to conserve moisture and prevent
weeds, but keep mulch off the trunk.
Cold protection:
Most Cassias handle brief frost; some Bauhinias like B. acuminata
and B. monandra must be sheltered below freezing. For cold nights,
cover
with frost cloth or move containers into shelter.
Dormancy: Outside of tropics, most Bauhinias drop leaves in
winter for a short period of time, right before flowering and are called
"semi-deciduous". Cassias stay evergreen.
Indoor or Porch Care (cool-climate growers)
Container: Choose a sturdy pot with several drainage holes, one
size larger than the root ball. Unglazed clay or thick plastic pots work
best
for heat regulation. Use a light, well-drained mix such as professional
soilless mix
Abundance. Both Cassias and Bauhinias dislike soggy roots. Add a thin
layer
of coarse gravel at the bottom to improve drainage. Repot every 1–2
years in spring
Light:
Brightest spot possible - south-facing window or heated sunroom. Supplement
with a grow light if sunlight is weak.
Temperature:
Keep potted trees in warm environment for best results. The optimum
temperature for Cassias and Bauhinias is between 60–85 F, although
many
species can tolerate cooler temperatures. Avoid cold drafts and sudden
drops.
Humidity:
Average indoor humidity is fine; occasional misting keeps foliage
glossy.
Watering:
Water sparingly in winter when growth slows; allow the top inch to dry
between waterings. Do not let roots sit in water.
Fertilizing:
Feed with Sunshine
Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering,
year around, to maintain flowering indoors. You may also apply Green
Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months.
Pest watch:
Check undersides of leaves for aphids or whitefly. A light spray of neem
oil or insecticidal soap clears them fast.
"Whether you crave golden summer fireworks or soft orchid blooms that last
nearly all year, both Cassia and Bauhinia bring pure joy to the garden.
💖 Bring color that never quits."
Did you know: Fall is the best planting season —
roots grow faster and you’ll have flowers by spring!
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.