Healthy Plant Food

Establishing Avocado Tree

Q: I received my avocado Wurtz tree yesterday. Per instructions I have put the tree in a pot first. However I am having difficulty deciding what to trim off. Yesterday I removed obvious damaged leaves. However as you can see, the leaves are lighter in some areas and contain yellow and red in some spots. What would you advise? Given this is a critical state as I do not want to shock the tree after the trip, I would like to do everything possible to protect it and ensure viability.

A: Your Avocado tree looks great and healthy overall. You've done excellent job planting it. Wurtz is a good, vigorous variety, while the tree is somewhat dwarf, great for containers.
You are right, it is the best for the tree to leave it alone and do not trim or remove leaves any more, until it starts showing new growth. Then it will be obvious what needs to be trimmed. Reddish/orange color of young leaves is normal. If any spots or dots - no need to remove those leaves yet. Wait until the plant grows more leaves. It needs them for photosynthesis, in order to become stronger.

Keep the tree in bright shade and gradually move from filtered sun to full sun. Water daily. Within a week or two after planting, you can start applying mild fertilizer and micro-elements. We recommend at this growth stage:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster
SUNSHINE SuperFood - Micro-element Plant Booster

❄️Cold Night Survival Guide

Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.

Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!

When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous cold-weather newsletter.

"We all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A single cold night does not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE

A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below 32 F. The tricky part is that you can get frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew point is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.

Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central Florida

WHAT TO DO AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP

✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:

1. Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed ones.
2. Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
3. Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
4. Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get light.
5. Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style 15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.

❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:

1. Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
2. Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
3. Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
4. Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows down as watering decreases.
5. Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse than a short freeze.

TEMPERATURE ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)

• 40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover tender tropicals.
• 37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does not lift it.
• 32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
• 29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and protect roots heavily.

COLD TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE

Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in our Tropical Plants Encyclopedia — it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next cold snap hits.

• Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
• Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
• Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must be protected
• Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch

QUICK-ACTION TABLE

Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.

• Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright light.
• Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not plastic on leaves.
• Leave Outside: Eugenias, Peaches, Persimmons, Longan, Lychee, Papaya, Citrus, Loquat, Hardy Avocado. Add mulch and monitor overnight lows.

🛒 Check out cold tolerant tropicals

Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during cold nights

GADGETS AND TOOLS THAT HELP

• Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats, timers.
• Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.

Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety check can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.

And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather, and gives plants an extra edge.

AFTER THE COLD PASSES

In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air, light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic must come off as soon as the sun rises.

Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze, but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring. That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.

Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the branch survives.

Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like Sunshine Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning tender tissue.

Dwarf Ceiba Pink Princess (Grafted) - a unique compact cultivar covered with pink flowers in Winter. Watch short video: How this breath-taking flowering tree stays so compact.

WHAT NOT TO DO

• Do not prune right after a freeze.
• Do not overwater cold soil.
• Do not fertilize heavily until spring.
• Do not leave covers on in full sun.

CLOSING THOUGHT

Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants, have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your collection healthy all winter.

Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in, keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last minute. Sunshine Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather returns.

A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana, citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to grow.

🛒 Shop Garden Supplies

Add Heat Pack to your plant order

How to grow Cerbera and make it flower

Q: I purchased Cerbera manghas - Enchanted Incense a year ago. As you see from the photo, it's doing great however, no blooms. I fertilize properly and very often and use worm castings for micronutrients. Yes it's not "your" fertilizer, but my plumerias, that are also in pots they are over 5 feet tall and blooming like crazy. I don't see any inflows coming on the Cerbera at all and it is hot and humid here in North Carolina, so it's happy but no sign of blooming. What is your advice?

A: Top Tropicals first brought Cerbera manghas into the US plant market a few years ago, it was recommended to us by our friend, plant taxonomist John Mood who visited Thailand, and among other exotic plants noted this fragrant beauty. Since then we've been successfully growing this plant, it has become one of everybody's favorites.

Generally speaking, Cerbera culture is very similar to Plumerias. These plants are closely related. So if you know how to grow Plumeria, you sure will succeed with Cerbera. Hot and sunny location, well-drained mix, moderate water and bloom boom fertilizer will do the trick. However, we have noticed a few distinctive features that make this plant somewhat challenging at times.

1) Flowers

For past years, we've been studying what triggers its flowering. Sometimes these plants start flowering in 1 gal pot, 1 ft tall. Other times a large developed tree 5-6 ft tall, in 5-7 gal pot, grows beautiful foliage with no signs of flowers. Eventually all of them bloom, no matter how stubborn they are, it's just some individual plants start flowering sooner than others, all grown in the same conditions.
One of our plants in the ground, a well-branched tree, was covered with flowers for a few months, but only on the 3d year after planting. Before that, it only produced a few random blooms. Others bloomed in pots at very young age.
The following factors benefit to Cerbera flowering:
- full sun at least 10 hours a day
- hot temperatures above 85F
- regular water but not heavy rains
- regular fertilizer - Bloom Booster type
- very good drainage and drying out before waterings. If root ball stays moist, the plant may look healthy but won't set flower buds. Keeping on a dry side will encourage flowering. Very similar to Jasmines: they bloom like crazy in April while it's hot and dry in Florida, but once our summer rainy season starts, they reduce blooming.

We highly recommend using Sunshine Megaflor bloom booster or SUNSHINE Pikake in combination with micro-element supplements Sunshine Honey (B-Mo) and Sunshine Superfood (complex micro) that induce flowering. Dry and granulated fertilizers may not supply exactly what a plant needs: certain elements that trigger flowering may be missing. Sunshine Boosters formulas are scientifically balanced, they contain precise amounts of nutrients needed for setting flowers. Besides, excessive salts from regular dry fertilizers create nutrient lock up that may retard plant metabolism; with liquid amino-acid based Sunshine boosters, plants consume the whole menu of elements without building them up in the soil.

2) Fruit

Fruit of Cerbera are very pretty and cover the tree after profuse flowering. To inexperienced eye they may look very much like small mango or avocado fruit - so make sure kids or visitors don't try to eat them! Cerbera seeds are extremely poisonous.

3) Leaves

If you ever grew Passiflora or Milkweed, you know how leaves can be eaten by caterpillars overnight. This may happen to Cerbera too, as we discovered. In Florida environment this exotic plant doesn't have natural predators for protection from certain insect species that may feed on it. So watch out and if noticed first signs of leaves damage - its time for insect control.
Other than that, Cerbera foliage is usually beautiful and colorful, here in Florida it looks much healthier than that of Plumerias often affected with rusty residue during high humidity months.

Hope this helps. The Cerbera fragrance is enchanting, it is worth the efforts and waiting!

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

Fertilizing in Winter

Q: I have many tropical plants in my garden, both in the ground and in pots. I realize it is wintertime and some of them, the Hydrangea, Hibiscuses, and roses are in bloom but the rest of them seem wilty and droopy. Is it alright to fertilize them now, or should I wait for a few days? I have an all purpose tropical fertilizer and a 20-20-20 also. Please advise what to do.

A: During wintertime, tropicals may suffer from low temperatures and lack of sunshine which causes droopy leaves, and leaf loss.
Regardless of the cause and plant condition, you should NEVER apply traditional dry fertilizers during cool months. When cold, dry fertilizers (EDTA-chelated) may create nutrient lock up in soil and damage the roots. Dry fertilizers (both granulated and water-soluble) can be used only during hot season - when min temperatures stay above 65F for at least a week in a row, and daytime temperatures are over 75-80F. During hot, active growth season plant metabolism increases. This provides less chance for a chemical root burn, as the nutrients are used up quickly.

However, liquid fertilizers, as long as they are amino-acid based, can be used year round. From our own experience last winter, we discovered that fertilizing sickly looking plants (with signs of cold damage and root issues) with Sunshine Boosters actually revived those plants. Sunshine Boosters even brought back to life some hopeless specimens. Take a look at this gardenia that grows in our garden (picture above). See full article.
In your case, it would be beneficial to use a mild formula of liquid boosters in combination with Sunshine Epi -a natural plant hormone that boost their growth and helps to cope with cold-, temperature- and low-light-related stress.

These are the products we recommend:
- Sunshine Bombino - add to every watering
- Sunshine Epi - twice a month as foliage spray

Since you grow plants in pots, feeding program is especially essential, because plants are limited with a container size where roots can't reach out to more food in the outer soil. In professional nursery set up with injector irrigation systems, container plants are fed daily (depending on season, more than once a day) with every watering. This is why greenhouse plants are so healthy looking.
So feel free to give your plants Sunshine boosters with every watering, dozing according to the label. During cold period, plants need less frequent watering, so fertilizer input will be balanced accordingly, it will depend on temperature and plant metabolism.