🍲 What Fertilizer to Use Now and How?
Part 2. Macro elements, or everyday plant food
Sunshine Booster for different types of plants can be applied as often as with every watering.
✔️ For Rapid Growth
Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster: general fertilizer for both foliage plants and small starters that need an extra boost.
✔️ For Flowers
Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster: boosts flowers on established plants; and Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster: best for fragrant flowers.
✔️ For Fruit Trees
Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster: contains all necessary elements for fruit trees and their production. Sunshine Mango Tango - specifically formulated for Mango and Avocado trees, and Sunshine Citron - ideal for citrus trees.
✔️ For Tender Perennials
Sunshine Orchidasm - Orchid Total Feed and Sunshine Ananas - Pineapple and Bromeliad Booster: mild formulas for these tender perennials.
✔️ Microelement Supplements Are a Must
Besides macronutrients, plants need additional microelements, just like humans need vitamins. We will explain in details about micro-elements in our next post 🔽
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.
Synergy of SUNSHINE, biostimulants, and macro-micro
Q: I've heard that plants grow better and bigger with SUNSHINE
boosters and when using Myco-Mix instead of regular soil mix. Do they work like
fertilizers? If I use a Myco-mix, do I still need a fertilizer?
A:SUNSHINE boosters are not fertilizers, they are natural plant hormones,
or biostimulants, as well as Myco-Mix which is a naturally occurring compound or microbes.
Biostimulants are becoming increasingly attractive to folks interested in sustainable
agriculture, and very popular for plant growth or pest resistance. A plant
biostimulant is not a fertilizer because it provides no nutritional value to the plants. But,
it can promote greater nutrient and water use efficiency, increase
resistance to pests and diseases, reduce abiotic stresses, and in turn, lead to plant
growth and health.
To answer your question, you can not replace regular fertilizers (NPK)
and micro-elements with plant boosters and stimulants. However, fertilizers
and microelements will work more efficiently when used in combination with
biostimulants. Together they create a synergy, so plants use the most of
fertilizer's potential, and will grow a lot better, faster, and healthier.
4 components for the best growing results
1. SUNSHINE boosters. They are a must during the juvenile stage of plant
development - seedlings and cuttings. They are especially important for
recovery of weak or stressed plants (boosting their immune system).
2. SuperFood microelements
3. NPK fertilizers. Select from water-soluble and smart-release types and
make sure do not exceed the recommended concentration. Lower dose and more
frequent use is always better for a plant.
4. Specialized soilless mixes: Myco-Mix (with biostimulant Mycorrhiza) for exclusive growing projects
and special/unique plants, Professional potting mix for potted plants, and Propagation mix for seeds and cuttings.
Date: 2 Mar 2026
Eugenia Cherries 🍒
By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top
Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help
Eugenia brasiliensis - Grumichama fruit on the branch
Growing Eugenia Cherries (Cherry of the Rio Grande & Grumichama)
Cherry of the Rio Grande and Grumichama are compact, adaptable tropical
fruit trees well suited to Southern landscapes. While forgiving, they
perform
best when planted correctly from the beginning.
Site and Planting
Drainage is essential. Avoid low areas where water collects. Plant on
a slight mound if soil is heavy or clay-like.
Choose full sun for best flowering and fruit production. Partial shade
is tolerated.
A south or southeast exposure near a wall improves cold resilience and
reduces wind stress.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root
ball.
Set the tree level with surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
Water and Feeding
Water regularly during the first few months while roots establish.
Once established, trees tolerate short dry periods but fruit best with
moderate, consistent moisture.
Established Cherry of the Rio Grande can tolerate brief drops into the
low 20s.
Established Grumichama tolerates temperatures into the upper 20s.
Harvest and Production
Cherry of the Rio Grande fruits from late spring into summer. Pick
when fully dark and slightly soft.
Grumichama ripens quickly, often within four weeks after flowering.
Pick when glossy and deep purple-black.
Both trees often begin fruiting within 2–3 years and increase
production steadily with maturity.
Growing in Containers
Use at least a 10–20 gallon pot for long-term growth.
Ensure multiple drainage holes.
Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden
soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot
growing
Place in full sun for best fruiting.
Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering
again.
Move containers to a protected area during hard freezes.
Prune lightly to maintain shape and airflow.
Common Mistakes
Planting in poorly drained soil.
Overwatering and keeping soil constantly saturated.
Over-fertilizing with excessive nitrogen.
Planting too deep and burying the trunk.
Expecting heavy crops immediately instead of allowing time for
maturity.
Which one tastes better – Cherry of the Rio Grande or
Grumichama?
Cherry of the Rio Grande has a deeper, classic “sweet cherry”
flavor with slight richness. Grumichama is softer, juicier, and often
described as cherry with hints of grape and plum. Both are excellent fresh;
Grumichama is especially popular for jam.
Which tree produces more fruit?
Grumichama typically produces heavier crops once mature and can carry
hundreds of fruits in a season. Cherry of the Rio Grande produces
consistently but
in slightly smaller volumes.
Do birds take all the fruit?
Birds are attracted to both trees, especially Grumichama. Netting during
peak ripening or harvesting promptly usually solves the issue.
Are these true "tropical" trees or subtropical?
They are best described as subtropical tropicals. Unlike ultra-tender
tropical fruits, Eugenia cherries tolerate occasional frost once
established,
making them more reliable in Southern landscapes.
Do they drop fruit messily?
Fruit will fall if overripe, but the trees are compact and manageable.
Regular harvesting prevents ground drop and keeps the area clean.
Can they be used for hedging or screening?
Yes. Their dense evergreen foliage and upright growth make them suitable
for edible hedges or privacy screens while still producing fruit.
Choosing between them is not about survival — both have proven
resilient. It is about flavor preference, crop volume, and how you want to
use
the fruit in your kitchen and landscape.
Eugenia brasiliensis - Grumichama fruit close up
Eugenia aggregata (cv. Calycina), Cherry of the Rio Grande
The year is almost over but the winter is not. This Christmas weekend at
our Sebring B-farm we had it down to 30F. As a tropical gardener, winter can
be challenging, especially if you grow plants outside of tropical zones.
To protect your garden from the cold, consider the following:
1. Monitor freeze watches and be prepared to take action if
necessary.
2. Create temporary structures like mini-greenhouses using PVC pipes,
carport frames, or bamboo sticks to support covers.
3. Use covers such as frost cloth, cardboard boxes, blankets, and bed
sheets.
4. Use Christmas lights and other heating elements, including propane
heaters, to keep plants warm.
5. Add a layer of heavy mulch around plant trunks to protect them from the
cold.
6. Apply plant boosters that improve cold hardiness, such as Sunshine Epi,
Sunshine-Si, and Sunshine Superfood.
At TopTropicals B-Farm, we sprayed our plants with a special cold hardiness treatment Sunshine-Si and covered and wrapped
everything we could. We also moved cold sensitive species inside greenhouses.
All of our plants are looking great and happy!
Photo above: Mulching mango trunks and using Christmas lights for
cold protection
Photo above: Temporary wrapping of a section of a greenhouse with a
plastic or frost cloth protects from a windchill. It may also win you a few
degrees even without a heater. In this particular case, according to our temp
sensors, it was 30F outside, and 41F inside this "dome", no heaters used.
Sunshine Boosters:
Last chance to stock up at a lower price!
Sunshine
Boosters are natural, amino acid-based liquid fertilizers made with only
the highest quality ingredients. Starting in 2023, the pricing for Sunshine
Boosters will be adjusting to reflect the increasing cost of supplies. This is
your last chance to stock up on Sunshine Boosters before the end of the year!
Sunshine Boosters are safe to use year around, with every watering.
Don't miss out on this opportunity to get the best
value for your money!