Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 29 Mar 2021

How to get rid of bad luck:
The story of the Garlic Vine

by Alex Butova, the Witch of Herbs and Cats

Are you a vampire? If not, then this is your Plant! Mansoa alliacea, or Garlic Vine, is a truly amazing plant. There are two special features that make it so unique...
...First, the flowers start off deep lavender with white throat and change to a lighter shade of lavender with age. Eventually fading to almost white, and you will see three different color of flowers at the same time on the plant. It's fantastic!...
...Secondly, the small of the leaves makes it a conversation piece: crushed leaves smell like garlic...
...The plant is said to help get rid of bad luck and is a favorite with hunters. Some Amazon natives offer their dogs a brew of this botanical to ensure success during the hunt. Up until now, most consider the plant to be magical or spiritual and they hang bunches of the leaves around their home for good luck or in order to drive away evil spirits...

CONTINUE READING >>

Date: 24 Jun 2018

TopTropicals

URBAN TROPICAL GARDENING:
10 secrets of successful Container Mango growing on a balcony.

Q: I live in Miami in apartment on a second floor, and I have a balcony with SE exposure. I wonder if I can grow a mango tree in a pot? Will it fruit for me? I recently moved to South Florida and I don't know much about tropical plants; but I tasted real fiberless mangos from someone's garden - it was so delicious and different from those in the grocery store. I wonder if I can have a fruiting tree on my balcony? And if yes, how do I plant and take care of it?

A: Yes, you can! Here is what you need to do:
1) Temperature. You are lucky to live in Tropics, keep it on a balcony year round.
2) Light. Position the pot in a spot with the most sun exposure. Mango trees can take filtered light too, but the less sun, the less fruit you will get.
3) Soil and Container. Use only well drained potting mix. Step up the purchased plant into next size container (3 gal into 7 gal, 7 gal into 15 gal). When transplanting, make sure to keep growth point (where roots meet the trunk) just at the top of the soil. Covering base of the trunk with soil may kill the plant.
4) Water. Water daily during hot season, but only if top of soil gets dry. If it still moist, skip that day. Mangoes (unlike Avocados!) prefer to stay on a dry side.
5) Fertilizer. Use balanced fertilizer once a month, 1 tsp per 1 gal of soil. Do not fertilize during fruiting - this may cause fruit cracks.
6) Microelements. Apply SUNSHINE-Superfood once a month. This will help your mango healthy, vigorous, and resistant to diseases. Use SUNSHINE-Honey to make your fruit sweeter.
7) Insect control. Watch for scales and mealybugs, clean with solution of soapy water + vegetable oil (may need to repeat 2-3 times with 10 days interval), or with systemic insecticide like imidacloprid only as needed (if non-harsh treatment didn't help). Most Flea shampoo for dogs contain that chemical, you may try that shampoo solution.
8) Trimming. Once potted, do not remove leaves that are discolored or have spots until new growth appears. Dark dots on mango leaves, especially in humid climate like Florida, may be signs of fungus. Treat with fungicide according to label, and remove only badly damaged leaves. Trim crown as needed after flowering and fruiting (by Fall). Train into a small tree, and you may remove some lower branches eventually.
9) Flower and fruit. Mangoes are winter bloomers with bunches of tiny flowers coming in thousands. Many of them set fruit (if pollinating insects present). Keep in mind that young trees can only bare a few fruit. Normally a tree will drop excessive fruit and keep only a few that it can manage. To save the young tree some energy, remove fruit if too many and leave only 2-3 for the first year. It will pay you next year with more abundant crop.
10) Variety. Last but not least: Choose the right variety for container culture! Pick from "condo" dwarf varieties such as Icecream, Nam Doc Mai, Carrie, Cogshall, Julie, Fairchild, Pickering, Graham, Mallika, and a few others - check out Mango Chart pdf and full list of our Mango varieties.

Date: 6 Dec 2025

🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 2.Temperature. ❄️

Smokey the tuxedo cat checks thermometers by a cold window while Sunshine the ginger tabby relaxes near a heater holding a room thermometer showing 74 F.

Smokey: Too cold. We need more heaters so the plants feel comfortable.
Sunshine: I feel comfortable.
Smokey: You are not part of my plant collection, but I am glad you are comfortable.

🌡️ TEMPERATURE: THE TROPICAL DORMANCY LINE

In Part 1 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) we covered the foundation: light, placement, and acclimation. That is the survival layer.

Most tropicals stop growing below 70 to 75 F. They stay green, but their engine shuts down.

Below 70F:

  • Water intake drops.
  • Roots slow down.
  • Fertilizing becomes risky.
  • Root root becomes easy.

If you WANT your plants to grow in winter, you must take care of everything: Warmth, light, humidity, water. It all works together.

  • Aim for 75 F with bright light. Water lightly. No fertilizer.
  • Watch out for drafts. Cold windows. Door blasts. Garage entryways. Even one gust can trigger leaf drop.
  • Vents are the opposite problem: hot, dry, dusty air. That gives you crispy edges and mites.
    • Root zone temperature matters just as much as room air. Your thermostat may say 72 F, but your pot on a tile floor may be sitting at 55 F. Fix this by elevating pots on boards or stands. Use Styrofoam. Never keep pots directly on cold tile o windowsill
  • Extra winter heat: Space heaters are fine if used smartly. Do not blow hot air directly on plants. Keep heaters away from cords, trays, and water. Oil filled radiators are the safest option for plant rooms.
  • Use a humidifier if you want growth or want to prevent spider mites. But do not blow mist directly onto leaves. Always place the unit lower than the plant canopy.
  • Grouping helps. Put tropical plants close together to share humidity. Do not mix succulents with humidity lovers.
  • Cats and dogs love to knock over lights and stands. Secure your fixtures. Trust us.
  • Airflow: Light airflow is healthy. Direct fan blast is not. Still, dry corners invite mites.
  • A mild night drop is OK. A big one below 55 F will stop growth completely.

Pink mandevilla vine blooming indoors in a white pot on a shelf.

A mandevilla thriving indoors with bright pink blooms and glossy green leaves.

☂️ PLACEMENT: MICROCLIMATES RULE EVERYTHING

Indoors is one big tradeoff: light but cold near windows, warm but dim away from them. The winning combo is a warm room with supplemental light.

Best zones to keep plants in winter:

  • South or east windows with additional light
  • Warm living spaces
  • Bright bathrooms for natural humidity

Worst zones to keep plants in winter:

  • Behind curtains
  • Directly on windowsills
  • Near heaters or vents
  • Against cold exterior walls
  • Dark corners without supplemental lighting

Large philodendron vine growing indoors across a window and dresser.

A vigorous indoor philodendron stretching across the window.

💨 ACCLIMATION

Moving a plant from outdoors to indoors is a shock. Light drops. Humidity drops. Airflow stops. Soil cools. Even healthy plants may drop some leaves for a few weeks. That is normal.

Before you bring them inside:

  • Rinse foliage to remove dust and pests. We recommend Sunshine NoBug - and organic, safe solution.
  • Check for ants.
  • Trim weak branches.
  • Treat soil if fungus gnats are present.

Try to bring plants inside before the first cold front, not after. If you are reading this too late, do the prep now and expect a little leaf drop.

If you nail light and temperature, winter becomes simple. In the next mail-list we will cover watering, fertilizer timing, humidity, and other indoor tricks that keep tropicals happy till spring. Stay tuned.

Indoor bathroom garden with tropical plants under a skylight and an orange cat walking in front.

Cat Bob is inspecting his indoor garden around the tub with a bright skylight


✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT

Q: Why are leaves dropping only on the window side?
A: Cold glass. The room may be warm, but the glass surface can be much colder.

Q: Is a cold room OK for tropicals?
A: They may survive, but they will not grow below about 65F to 75F. When nights stay below 65F for a week, many plants enter dormancy.

Q: My room feels warm. Why is my plant still not growing?
A: Check the soil temperature. Pots on cold tile can be 10 to 20F colder than the air.

Q: Can plants sit directly on the floor?
A: Not on cold tile. Always elevate them on boards, stands, or trays.

Q: Is it OK to keep plants near a heater or vent?
A: No. Vents and heaters blast hot, dry air and cause crispy leaves and mites.

Q: My plant is dropping leaves after coming indoors. Why?
A: Normal acclimation to reduced light and humidity right after the move.

Q: Can I keep plants in a bright bathroom?
A: Yes. Bathrooms can have good humidity. Just keep pots off cold tile.

Q: Do I need a humidifier?
A: Not for survival. Yes if you want better growth and fewer pests like spider mites.

Q: Do I need a grow tent?
A: No. A bright LED plus a warm room is enough for winter holding.

Q: Should I fertilize in winter?
A: Not now. Winter fertilizer rules will be covered in the next mail-list.

Q: Should I water the same as in summer?
A: No. Indoor plants need much less water in winter. Watering rules also coming soon.

🛒 Shop Indoor Garden


Indoor plants


📚 Learn more:


Date: 23 Feb 2026

Macadamia Tree Care

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

Mature macadamia tree with well-shaped canopy growing in Florida orchard.

Macadamia tree maturing into a productive, manageable canopy.

🌳 Growing Macadamia Tree

Macadamia is not a fragile tree, but it does have preferences. If you respect them from the beginning, the tree rewards you for decades.

  • Start with the site. Drainage is everything. Macadamia will tolerate cool weather better if planted in a well-drained area. Avoid low spots where water sits after rain. If your soil is dense or clay-like, build a mound or improve drainage before planting.
  • Choose full sun whenever possible for the best nut production.
  • Planting location matters. A south or southeast exposure near a wall can create a warmer microclimate that buffers cold nights. Freeze plus wind is more damaging than temperature alone. Macadamia handles cold better when protected from winter wind.
  • Dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root ball. Set the tree level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
  • Water regularly during the first three months while the tree establishes roots.
  • Fertilize lightly. Macadamia does not respond well to over-fertilizing. Macadamias prefer mild liquid fertilizers, SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta is ideal for it. You may also use controlled release Green Magic every 6 months, it is especially formulated for hot climate. To keep leaves healthy deep green without yellowing, micro elements must be applied on regular basis, we recommend to always have handy Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
  • Young trees should be protected if temperatures drop below freezing. Once established, they become far more resilient.
  • Harvest timing: Nuts mature 6-7 months after flowering. Husk splits naturally when ready. Fallen nuts should be collected quickly.
  • Flower and Nut Drop: Many gardeners panic when they see flowers or small nuts drop, but Macadamia naturally sheds excess fruit. It does not mean failure; the tree simply keeps what it can afford to feed.
  • Macadamia is relatively low-maintenance, but watch for squirrels and rats. They love the rich nuts as much as humans do, so be sure to collect fallen nuts quickly.
  • Root Sensitivity: Macadamia roots dislike disturbance. Transplant carefully. Avoid root damage.
  • Macadamia is not a fast-return crop. It begins producing a few years and increases gradually. But once mature, it becomes a steady, reliable part of your garden.

Learn more: Macadamia - Hard Sweet Nut and Hardy Tree

Fresh green macadamia fruit and brown hard-shelled nuts collected in a bowl.

Macadamia fruit showing green outer husk and mature brown shell inside.

🌱 Growing Macadamia in a Pot

  • Container size: Start large. A 15-25 gallon pot is ideal for long-term growth.
  • Drainage: Critical. Use a container with multiple drainage holes.
  • Soil mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot growing
  • Light: Full sun is best. Strong light improves flowering and nut production.
  • Watering: Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again. Avoid constant saturation.
  • Feed lightly and consistenly. SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta liquid fertilizer is safe to use with with every watering. During hot season you may add controlled release Green Magic every 6 months. It is essential to apply micro elements on Macadamias: Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
  • Cold protection: If temperatures drop below freezing, move the container to a protected area such as a garage or greenhouse.
  • Pruning: Prune lightly to control size and maintain airflow within the canopy.
  • Expectations: Container trees may produce fewer nuts than in-ground trees, but they offer mobility and climate control.
  • Smokey says: Container trees offer mobility and climate control so you never have to worry about a freeze!

✍️ More About Macadamia from Garden Blog

Green macadamia nuts developing on tree branch among glossy leaves.

Macadamia nuts developing on the tree before the husk splits.

🚫 Common Mistakes When Growing Macadamia

  • Planting in poorly drained soil:
    The most common mistake. Macadamia will decline quickly in heavy, waterlogged ground. If drainage is questionable, plant on a mound.
  • Overwatering young trees:
    Newly planted trees need consistent moisture, not constant saturation. Wet roots lead to root problems.
  • Over-fertilizing:
    Too much fertilizer causes weak growth and nutrient imbalance. Feed lightly and avoid heavy nitrogen applications.
  • Planting too deep:
    The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
  • Ignoring micronutrients:
    Macadamia is very prone to iron, zinc, and copper deficiencies. Yellowing leaves may signal a micronutrient issue. Applly Sunshine Superfood on regular basis.
  • Expecting instant production:
    Macadamia takes time. Early years build structure. Patience is part of success.
  • Skipping cold protection for young trees:
    Established trees are tougher, but young plants should be protected below freezing.

Macadamia tree in full bloom covered with long orange flower racemes.

Macadamia tree in full bloom with abundant flower clusters.

❓Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

  • Is Macadamia toxic to pets? While the nuts are a superfood for humans, they are toxic to dogs. If you have a dog that tends to forage in the garden, ensure you harvest fallen nuts promptly or fence the base of the tree during the drop season.
  • Which varieties are best for the "Survivor" garden? Look for Macadamia integrifolia (smooth-shell) or hybrids like 'Beaumont' (M. tetraphylla x M. integrifolia). Hybrids often show slightly better cold tolerance and more consistent "home garden" production.
  • How tall will my tree get? In the ground, an unpruned Macadamia can reach 20–30 feet. However, they respond very well to "heading back" (pruning the top) to keep them at a manageable 12–15 feet for easy harvesting.
  • Do I need two trees for cross-pollination? Macadamias are self-fertile, meaning one tree will produce nuts. However, planting two varieties near each other often results in a significantly heavier "nut set" due to cross-pollination.
  • Why are the leaves on my Macadamia prickly? Don't panic—this is normal! Some species, particularly M. tetraphylla, have serrated, holly-like leaves. This actually makes them a great "defensive" hedge against intruders or deer.
  • When exactly should I harvest? The tree tells you when it's ready. Don't shake the tree; wait for the nuts to fall naturally. In Florida, this usually happens between August and November. If the green outer husk hasn't split yet, let them sit in a shaded, dry spot until they do.
  • My tree has "clusters" of flowers but no nuts. What happened? Macadamias produce long racemes (flower spikes) with hundreds of tiny blooms. It is normal for 90% of these to fall off. The tree only keeps what it can afford to "feed." Boost your success by using a combination of Sunshine C-Cibus liquid fertilizer and SUNSHINE Superfood micro element supplement during the flowering stage to help the tree retain more fruit.
  • Can I grow them from a nut I bought at the store? Unlikely. Commercial nuts are usually roasted or dried at high heat, killing the embryo. Even if a raw nut sprouts, it may take 10–12 years to fruit and the quality is a gamble. Buying a grafted tree saves you a decade of waiting.

We don’t just sell plants; we test them. The data from this February freeze proves that with the right selection and proper drainage, 'tropical' doesn’t have to mean 'fragile.' Don’t wait for the next cold front to find out what in your garden is vulnerable. It is time to replace those empty spots with proven survivors that offer both beauty and a premium harvest. If it can stand up to 25F in our fields, it’s ready for your backyard.

Coming in Part 2...

Smokey is already crunching the numbers on our next survivor, and Sunshine found another tree that stayed perfectly green in the wind. Stay tuned to see which fruit tree made the cut!

Macadamia tree covered in long pink flower racemes during peak bloom.

Macadamia flowers forming long cascading racemes before nut set.

🎥 More Macadamia videos from our channel

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

◂ Previous pageNext page ▸Most recent entry ▴Blog table of contents