Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 17 Nov 2025

❄️Cold Night Survival Guide

Smokey,  a  black-and-white  tuxedo  cat,  loads  a  wheelbarrow  with  potted 
 

tropical  plants  while  Sunshine,  a  fluffy  orange  tabby,  pretends  to  cover  a 
 

mango  tree  with  frost  cloth  as  evening  light  warms  the  tropical  garden.

Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.

Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!

When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous cold-weather newsletter.

"We all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A single cold night does not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE

A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below 32 F. The tricky part is that you can get frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew point is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.

Frost  on  grass  and  leaves

Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central Florida

WHAT TO DO AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP

✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:

  1. Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed ones.
  2. Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
  3. Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
  4. Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get light.
  5. Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style 15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.

❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:

  1. Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
  2. Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
  3. Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
  4. Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows down as watering decreases.
  5. Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse than a short freeze.

TEMPERATURE ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)

  • 40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover tender tropicals.
  • 37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does not lift it.
  • 32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
  • 29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and protect roots heavily.

COLD TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE

Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in our Tropical Plants Encyclopedia — it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next cold snap hits.

  • Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
  • Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
  • Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must be protected
  • Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch

QUICK-ACTION TABLE

Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.

  • Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright light.
  • Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not plastic on leaves.
  • Leave Outside: Eugenias, Peaches, Persimmons, Longan, Lychee, Papaya, Citrus, Loquat, Hardy Avocado. Add mulch and monitor overnight lows.

🛒 Check out cold tolerant tropicals

Covering  large  mango  and  avocado  trees  in  pots

Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during cold nights

GADGETS AND TOOLS THAT HELP

  • Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats, timers.
  • Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.

Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety check can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.

And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather, and gives plants an extra edge.

AFTER THE COLD PASSES

In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air, light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic must come off as soon as the sun rises.

Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze, but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring. That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.

Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the branch survives.

Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like Sunshine Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning tender tissue.

Dwarf  Ceiba  Pink  Princess  in  full  bloom

Dwarf Ceiba Pink Princess (Grafted) - a unique compact cultivar covered with pink flowers in Winter. Watch short video: How this breath-taking flowering tree stays so compact.

WHAT NOT TO DO

  • Do not prune right after a freeze.
  • Do not overwater cold soil.
  • Do not fertilize heavily until spring.
  • Do not leave covers on in full sun.

CLOSING THOUGHT

Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants, have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your collection healthy all winter.

Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in, keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last minute. Sunshine Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather returns.

A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana, citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to grow.

🛒 Shop Garden Supplies

Add Heat Pack to your plant order

Cats  adding  heat  pack  to  plant  shipment

Date: 20 Feb 2017

Flowering plant for a front yard

Q: I need your expertise. I had a plant in the front of my house that when I moved in (two years ago) wasn't doing well. It was infested with grasshoppers and snails. I treated it with a pesticide and fertilizer and it flourished. Had beautiful flowerings and was almost the size of the mulch area. Then the property management company hired some terrible grass cutters that I believed destroyed it. I would come home and find the red mulch and leaves from the plant all over the front lawn. And since then it has gone down hill. I am attaching a picture. As of now the larger of the remaining two trunks (out of six that were there) is falling over and it doesn't seem to be doing well. So I was wondering if you can recommend a nice plant that I can replace this one with. Nothing extravagant but nice enough to fill in that area. Also since I only lease here don't want to get to pricey either. Thanks for any advice and plants you have.

A: The plant you have is called Spider Lily. It is one of the easiest landscape plants that doesn't require much care and is great for low maintenance yards. In your case, besides possible damage from the grass cutter, looks like the plant is very old judging by the thick woody stem. It is not a bad idea to replace it with something more pretty rather than trying to baby it. Other suggestions for this location would be something easy and low maintenance, especially if you don't have reliable sprinkler system in that area of your yard and don't want to spend time hand-watering with a house:
Sweet mimosa - grows into very large bush, Pony tail, Dwarf poinciana, Powderpuff, Clusia, Devils backbone (smaller bush 3 ft tall), Cordyline, Ti leaf - these are very colorful.
There are more low maintenance plants you can chose from.
And always remember that traditional "landscapers" that only mow grass, may not be experts on plants. You may always call TopTropicals Garden Doctor and get professional help with keeping your plants healthy. We are always here to help your garden!

Date: 4 Feb 2017

Groundhog Day Feb 2

On Groundhog Day Feb 2: Groundhog Punxsutawney Phil saw his shadow on Thursday morning, predicting six more weeks of winter during Groundhog Day festivities at Gobbler's Knob, a small hill just outside Phil's hometown.
According to folklore, if it is cloudy when a groundhog emerges from its burrow on this day, then the spring season will come soon; if it is sunny, the groundhog will supposedly see its shadow and retreat back into its den, and winter weather will persist for six more weeks.
Phil promised long winter, however, we should not cry in despair but starting to get ready for Spring!

Spring Check List:
- Make sure min temperatures are above 45F before you start bringing potted plants outside.
- When active new growth appears from buds, after-winter pruning can be done.
- You may start weekly fertilizing as soon as night temperatures raise above 55F.
- Start planting in the ground as soon as there are no more chances of frost, until then keep newly arrived plants in pots so they get better established.
- Low chill cold hardy fruit trees including Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Apples, Mulberry, Loquats go in the ground first, so you can enjoy their blooms and early fruit set. Plant Pomegranates, blueberries and cranberries, raspberries and blackberries, grapes.
- Water as needed, still keeping on dry side until afternoons get hot and plants start using more water.
- Start seeds indoors. The sooner the better, to give seedlings more time to establish before planting out in the ground.

Overwintering Magnolia (Michelia)

Michelia alba Question: I have a question about Michelia alba. My Michelia alba leaves turning yellow and losing leaves. When I brought it inside for the winter, after the leaves falling off new one grow back not all of them grow back and now the new the branches start to die. I water once a week.

A: Whenever moving a plant in or out of the home it is always best to do it gradually. Moving a plant all in one day will cause stress to the plant due to environmental changes such as, new humidity levels, new light levels and new watering requirements. Michelias usually loose their leaves once in the spring and once before winter but grow them back right away. Now that your plant is inside with less humidity, light and leaves, you only need to water once the soil as almost dried out. You will need to stick your finger in the soil to see if it is still wet as the top layer dries before the under layer. If the branches are starting to die at the tips this usually means too much water. Move the plant to a bright light window, decrease water and you may want to also use a humidifier.

Date: 21 Feb 2020

When plants are ready for a meal?

Q: We have an early Spring here in Florida. All plants in my garden flushing out new leaves and buds opening. Can I start fertilizing? I have Mango, Avocado, Peach trees, many medicinal herbs and flowering shrubs: Angel trumpets, plumerias, bromeliads. I prefer mild organic fertilizers; can you suggest something that is safe for edibles and butterflies?

Q: As a rule of thumb, tropical gardeners start regular fertilizing when the minimum temperatures (at night) go above 65F. Keep in mind that Sunshine Boosters fertilizers can be applied year around because they have mild formulas and used with every watering; during cooler period, you water less frequently, so feeding is reduced accordingly. Another advantage of Sunshine Boosters - they are natural (derived from organic amino acids which is the basics of Life). They are safe for edibles as well as pollinating insects.

Here is the feeding plan for your plants:
1. The most universal solution for all plants (both potted and in-ground): get a complete set of Sunshine Boosters Pro system: Advantage-Pro for vegetative growth, BloomBoom Pro for flowering stage, and Ca-Support-Pro + Constanta-Pro as necessary daily supplements. You will need all these 4 components for your garden.
2. Start adding these liquid boosters with every watering according to dozing directions and you will notice amazing growth boost within a week.
3. Apply Sunshine Epi plant hormone every 2 weeks as a foliar spray to boost immune system and metabolism of plants and protect them from diseases. Epi makes plants (especially young plants and those "waking up" from dormancy) grow twice faster! It also enhances effect of fertilizers by increasing plant metabolism.
4. After cool winter temperatures, some plants may develop element deficiencies like chlorosis (yellowing leaves). Additional microelement boost can be provided with Sunshine Greenleaf (iron supplement) and Sunshine Superfood (micro-elements).
5. For additional boosting of flowering and setting fruit, use the following individual boosters:
Sunshine Robusta - for foliage plants and when you need rapid vegetative growth
Sunshine TotalFeed - for Plumerias and other fragrant plants
Sunshine Megaflor - for Brugmansias and other flowering heavy feeders
Sunshine C-Cibus - for improving fruit production and quality
Sunshine Honey - for sweeter fruit (must be applied 4-5 times a year)
6. For young/small plants (seedlings, rooted cuttings) as well as tender tropicals like bromeliads, and orchids - Sunshine Bombino is a perfect choice due to its mild formula.
7. To save money, order complete sets rather than individual boosters; you will be able to safe up to 40%! Sunshine Complete Nutrition System Kits: Combo Kit, and Pro Kit.

If you are a fan of organic gardening, do not use dry fertilizers. While water-soluble and granulated (smart-realease) fertilizers are popular choice in plant nurseries due to their convenience, they are not as safe as liquid boosters because they create salt build-up in soil and have a high risk of overdosing/burning plant roots, especially potted plants, plants at breaking dormancy, at establishing, and at early stages of plant development. Besides, dry fertilizers may affect the taste of your fruit and herbs. See advantages of liquid boosters over dry fertilizers.

Learn more about Sunshine Nutrition System - a Natural solution for your garden.

Date: 4 Jun 2019

Plants for South Texas and other hot states

Q: Pretty much adore last newsletter. Haven't been buying because our weather here in deep south Texas is so bad it is stunting and killing even the Tamaulipan Scrub! Do you have a cure for that? :) I have every expectation the new grafted Plumeria I purchased from you last year will bloom soon. One of my favorite plants. Thanks again and keep up the good works.

A: Yes, there is a "cure" - using biostimulants that improve drought- and heat- resistance (SUNSHINE boosters), plus the right plant selection. In fact, there is a large number of tropical rare plants that can be successfully grown in hot climates like yours. One of our partners lives in hot and dry Arizona area and has an amazing tropical garden that includes many fruit trees (Mango, Persimmons, Pomegranates, Loquats, etc). Here you can see a few pics from his garden.
Your choice is absolutely right about plumerias. Other easy plants would be Desert roses - Adeniums, and Fancy Euphorbia millii - all these come in so many varieties of colors and bloom throughout most of the year. Our special recommendations for you would be also:

Bougainvillea Dwarf Pixie
Jasmine sambac
Calliandra selloi Pink Lilian
Dracaena marginata Tricolor - Colorama, Money Tree
Hamelia patens Lime Sizzler - Variegated Fire Bush
Jatropha berlandieri - Buddah Belly
Pedilanthus tithymaloides - Devils Backbone
Trachelospermum asiaticum Mandaianum - Dwarf Confederate Jasmine

See full list of more plants that are suitable for hot and dry landscapes.

Apply fertilizers, miscroelements, and plant stimulants for improving heat tolerance