Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 18 Apr 2016

Seeds germination in summer

Q: What is the best way to germinate seeds in summer? Should I keep trays indoors or put them outside?

A: Summer is the best growing season for plants, and for their propagation. Seed germination process of tropical plants usually benefits from warm, and even hot temperatures, so keeping pots with seeds outside in full or partial sun can be the best way. However some seeds may be more sensitive than others, or require slightly cooler or higher temperature for germination. These are a few tips that may help:

- For seed germination, use only well drained mixes, containing either peat moss or coconut fiber to retain moisture. Some succulents may require adding sand to the germination mix. You may also try our Professional Formula Seed Germination Mix.

- Large tropical seeds, like palms, or seeds of Fabaceae (Bean) family, can be grown in full sun. Their germination will benefit from higher temperatures (up to 90-95F). Make sure to keep soil moist. Cover them well, with 3/4 to 1 inch of soil.

- Fruit seeds (large size) should be germinated either in individual cells or small pots (3-4"diameter).

- Small to medium size seeds can be grown in so-called community pots. Seedlings can be separated after they establish their first roots.

- Tiny seeds should be planted closer to the surface, covered with only 1/4-1/8 inch of soil; some seeds require bright light for germination, so full sun will be a plus. Some small seeds like Ficus for example, prefer to be broadcasted on the surface, uncovered. Put containers with such seeds in bright shade, as you don't want the surface of the soil to dry out.

- Once your seeds sprouted, move them in filtered light - bright to medium shade depending on tenderness of the species. (Gingers prefer shade, while succulent sprouts can stay in brighter light). Regardless of water/sun needs of the species, all young sprouts and first leaves are sensitive to hot sun and may get burned or even killed. Once a baby plant has a few leaves and well-branched root system, you may start moving trays into a brighter light.

- Do not overwater young seedlings, keep soil slightly moist but not soggy.

See full list of available seeds.

Date: 10 Apr 2016

Growing by the sea

Q: Please recommend me some interesting plants that can grow on my waterfront property and can withstand some salt wind. All my neighbors have Sea Grape trees and bougainvilleas, and I want something different and special. I would love to have some colorful or fragrant flowers, or fruit around my paradise home.

Q: Considering your neighbors successfully grow Sea Grape (Coccoloba), and Bougainvilleas, you have a mild, frost free climate. There is a number of spectacular and useful tropical plants that are salt tolerant. Orchid Trees - Bauhinias, Poincettia - Delonix, and Geiger trees - Cordias, are very showy flowering trees. For large size bushes, try Dwarf Poincianas - Caesalpinias, and Scarlet-Coral Erythrinas. Frangipani - Plumeria, come in different colors and bring you perfume fragrance from Hawaii. And of course, Desert Roses - Adeniums, can be grown and showy specimens anywhere in your yard, both in the ground or as potted bonsai.

Most palms, especially popular Coconut Palm, source of tasty fruit and drink, are highly tolerant to salt breeze. If you are looking for something that nobody has, Lipstick palm, or Sealing wax palm - Cyrtostachys lakka, is definitely the most spectacular palm you can find. It is a stunning feather palm that develops a brilliantly red trunk. Palm is originally from Malaysia, but has been introduced to Costa Rica and other tropical areas of the world. Sealing Wax Palm seeds are very slow to germinate, up to a year, and large specimens are very rare and hard to find even in rare tropical plant nurseries. This palm will require a good overhead light, and constant warmth (above temperature 55F). It is definitely worth an effort to grow this beauty.

You may add more tropical accents to your landscape by the sea with many varieties of showy heliconias.

See full list of salt tolerant trees.

Date: 20 Mar 2016

Easter Lily Vine creates a fragrant privacy fence of virtually unlimited size

By Ron, South Florida. Easter Lily Vine (Beaumontia grandiflora) is a magnificent woody evergreen climber of unlimited growth potential. A branch of this vine will grow simply until you cut it. I have branches of up to 30 ft. and longer.

I've used two plants to turn a chain-link fence into a privacy screen that is 40 ft. wide by 10 ft. tall, but even a single plant can cover a much wider space if trained properly.

Easter Lily Vine's growth rate is moderate, so it doesn't require constant pruning to keep under control like other vigorous vines. I bought mine in 7 gallon pots, and planted them in the ground immediately. It took about 2 years to completely cover the fence. Since then, I prune it 3-4 times a year.

Keep in mind that these plants are heavy and require a solid structure as support. They twine by nature, but only around items with 3” diameter or more. Mine twined around a near-by lighting pole!

The absolute key in training Easter Lily Vine is to force it to grow horizontally. I recommend planting a young 3 gallon size vine in the ground diagonally, so it grows horizontally. Tie it no more than a foot above ground and let it grow a single branch until the end of the space you want to cover. Then force it to make a U-turn and let it grow the other way. See the following diagram for illustration..

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See step-by-step full size pictures and the rest of the article...

Date: 25 Jan 2021

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

How to get Canistel tree to produce
without dropping flowers and fruit

Q: My Canistel tree is 3 1/2 years old and is growing very well, see the picture below. It gets hundreds of pea sized "berries" but then they fall off. No canistel fruit. What's wrong?

A: You have such a nice looking tree, it is a shame you can't get any fruit to ripen.
In our experience, Pouteria trees dropping fruit prematurely is a very common problem. There may be one of the following reasons, or a combination of them:
- Cold winters may affect production, and while Canistel is generally pretty hardy tropical plant that can easily withstand short periods of chill, the fruit may never form properly if it had a cold winter.
- Lack of water. Canistel tree is pretty drought tolerant, but for the proper production cycle it needs regular irrigation. Especially during hot summer.
- The tree may be not strong enough; young trees drop fruit very often when they don't have enough "fruiting energy" built up in their system.
Your tree looks well established and vigorous, however, flower/fruit drop is often a sign of insufficient nutrients of particular kind, usually Boron (B) and/or Molybdenum (Mo): either when a tree is too young and not strong enough, or because of poor soils and lack of necessary elements.

Here is what can be done, considering you live in a warm, frost-free climate.

1. Provide regular fertilizing program. We recommend liquid fertilizers Sunshine Boosters that are safe to use with every watering and year around. It is beneficial to switch plants from traditional "slow-release" fertilizer to the liquid one because it makes a huge difference in plant growth and flower/fruit quality and quantity. See also:
- Why liquid fertilizers are better than dry
- Article about benefits of liquid fertilizers.

Use this plant food for your Canistel tree:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster

2. Apply micro-element remedies that are very effective for improving fruit production, especially when flower or fruit drop occurs:

SUNSHINE Honey - promotes more efficient blossoming and pollination, makes flowers bigger and reduces bud drop.
SUNSHINE SuperFood - improves plant vigor and quality and size of flowers These are all natural, eco-friendly supplements that work great for fruit trees and other edibles.

Date: 14 Feb 2026

🍭 From Vine to Bean: A Practical Guide

Vanilla  planifolia  vine  climbing  a  support,  close-up  of  vanilla  flower,
    and  cured  vanilla  beans

Vanilla planifolia Vine, Flower, and Cured Vanilla Beans

How to Grow Vanilla: quick how-to

Vanilla is not complicated, but it does have preferences. Start with a pot and regular, well-draining mix. It does not need anything exotic. Give it:

  • Bright, indirect light
  • Warm temperatures
  • Good humidity
  • Air movement

Most importantly, give it something solid to climb. A wooden trellis, a log, or a burlap-covered board works well. The surface should be porous so the aerial roots can grip.

As it grows, guide the vine gently. You can prune it to control size. Vanilla is slow to mature. That is normal.

The Bloom Secret

Vanilla does not bloom just because it looks healthy. It blooms when it feels secure.

This is a climbing orchid. It must attach firmly to a solid, porous support such as a wood log, trellis, or burlap-covered board. When the aerial roots grip and the plant reaches maturity, flowering becomes possible.

Once the flowers appear, they usually need to be hand pollinated to produce pods. Each flower stays open for only a short time, so timing matters.

How to pollinate vanilla: In this video, we show you exactly how to pollinate vanilla step by step

❓Vanilla care: quick FAQ

  • Does Vanilla planifolia really produce vanilla beans?
    Yes. Vanilla planifolia is the commercial source of vanilla. After flowering, it can form long green pods (vanilla beans). The aroma develops later during curing.
  • What is the secret to getting vanilla to bloom?
    Let it climb. Vanilla is a climbing orchid and usually will not bloom until its aerial roots attach firmly to a solid, porous support like a wood log, trellis, or burlap-covered board.
  • Do I need to pollinate vanilla flowers?
    Yes. In most home growing conditions, vanilla flowers must be hand pollinated to produce pods. Each flower is open for only a short time, so timing matters.
  • Can I grow vanilla indoors?
    Yes, if you can provide bright, indirect light, warmth, humidity, and a support to climb. A sunny room with filtered light and a trellis or log can work well.
  • What should I use for support?
    Use a sturdy trellis, a wood log, or a burlap-covered board. The key is a porous surface that aerial roots can grip. Avoid chemically treated wood. Check out this very unusual way to grow Vanilla Orchid over a wall.
  • What potting mix should I use for Vanilla plant?
    Start in a pot with a regular, well-draining potting mix such as Sunshine Abundance. As the plant matures, it relies more on its support and aerial roots than the soil.
  • What fertilizer should I use?
    Sunshine Boosters Orchidasm is formulated specifically for orchids and will work perfecty for Vanilla orchid as well.
  • How big will it get?
    As big as you let it. Train it and prune it. Vanilla grows according to the structure and space you provide.
  • How long until it flowers?
    Typically a few years. Vanilla is a long-term project, but it is very rewarding once established.

For Collectors and Enthusiasts:

Vanilla  dilloniana  vine  covered  in  yellow-green  flowers  with  red 
 centers  growing  outdoors  in  100  gal  pot

Vanilla dilloniana in Bloom - Rare Florida Native Orchid

We also offer Vanilla dilloniana, a rare Florida native species with distinctive flowers.

One remarkable specimen of this species, grown by our friend Robert Riefer, became so vigorous over many years that it outgrew a 100 gallon container and was eventually moved into a 250 gallon pool on wheels.

The plants we offer are propagated from that very specimen:

That kind of growth reflects deliberate cultivation and ideal conditions - not something that happens unintentionally.

Vanilla grows according to the space and structure you provide.

For gardeners focused on producing real vanilla beans for the kitchen, Vanilla planifolia remains the right place to start.

✍️ More About Vanilla Orchids from Blog

🎁 Shop Vanilla Orchids