Date: 4 Jul 2025
Happy Independence Day!
4th of July Sale
"Independence is happiness." - Susan B. Anthony
Happy 4th of July from the tropics! Whether you're staying local or escaping for the long weekend, it's the perfect time to enjoy your garden, start something new, or grab that plant you've been eyeing. Red Desert Roses, white fragrant Gardenias and Jasmines, rare Blue Ginger - tropical blooms are showing off right now, and we are celebrating with a hot summer sale: 20% off everything with code HAPPY4TH25, plus extra savings on combined DEALS and BOGO! Add some color to your summer and let your garden do the fireworks!
Use the code below to save 20% on your entire order:
HAPPY4TH25
Min order $200. Excluding S/H. Exp. 7-7-25
Reminder: use our FREE and DISCOUNTED SHIPPING for qualified orders
Shop Now
In the photo above: Bauhinia madagascariensis
Date: 28 Dec 2018
FEATURED BUTTERFLY PLANT:
Duranta variegata - Variegated Sky Flower
Variegated Sky Flower is grown for its summer flowers and ornamental fruit. This evergreen fast-growing shrub spreads and arches to 10 feet tall and wide and is great for live hedges and covering fences and corners. In the summer, cascading clusters of blue tubular flowers appear followed by wonderfully contrasting orange-yellow berries. This variegated form has creamy-yellow margins around the one inch long serrated leaves. In mild climates, this plant can be in flower nearly year round with flowers and fruit appearing at the same time. It does best in full sun with frequent deep watering and is hardy to about 20-25F. A good choice for espaliers, as a small tree or large bush; all forms benefit from frequent selective pruning. Flowers are very attractive to butterflies. Great for providing a color contrast in the landscape, and is especially well-suited as a bright-colored background or screening. Prune back in late winter to encourage a more compact shape and strong flush of fresh spring foliage. Requires moderate watering in a well-drained soil.
Date: 22 Oct 2025
Detailed Cassia and Bauhinia Care Guide
Outdoor Cassia and Bauhinia Care
- Light: Both Cassia and Bauhinia need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Cassias handle intense heat; Bauhinias can take light afternoon shade.
- Soil: Use loose, fast-draining soil. Mix equal parts garden soil, coarse sand, and compost.
- Watering: Keep evenly moist but never soggy. Cassias tolerate dry spells once established; Bauhinias prefer steady moisture. Water when the top inch feels dry.
- Feeding: For profuse flowering, feed with liquid Sunshine Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering, year around. You may also apply Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months. Bauhinias and Cassias respond quickly to feeding.
- Pruning: After flowering, prune lightly to shape and remove dead tips. Cassias can be trimmed to shrub form; Bauhinias stay bushy with pinching.
- Mulch: Add a 2-inch mulch layer around the base to conserve moisture and prevent weeds, but keep mulch off the trunk.
- Cold protection: Most Cassias handle brief frost; some Bauhinias like B. acuminata and B. monandra must be sheltered below freezing. For cold nights, cover with frost cloth or move containers into shelter.
- Dormancy: Outside of tropics, most Bauhinias drop leaves in winter for a short period of time, right before flowering and are called "semi-deciduous". Cassias stay evergreen.
Indoor or Porch Care (cool-climate growers)
- Container: Choose a sturdy pot with several drainage holes, one size larger than the root ball. Unglazed clay or thick plastic pots work best for heat regulation. Use a light, well-drained mix such as professional soilless mix Abundance. Both Cassias and Bauhinias dislike soggy roots. Add a thin layer of coarse gravel at the bottom to improve drainage. Repot every 1–2 years in spring
- Light: Brightest spot possible - south-facing window or heated sunroom. Supplement with a grow light if sunlight is weak.
- Temperature: Keep potted trees in warm environment for best results. The optimum temperature for Cassias and Bauhinias is between 60–85 F, although many species can tolerate cooler temperatures. Avoid cold drafts and sudden drops.
- Humidity: Average indoor humidity is fine; occasional misting keeps foliage glossy.
- Watering: Water sparingly in winter when growth slows; allow the top inch to dry between waterings. Do not let roots sit in water.
- Fertilizing: Feed with Sunshine Boosters Megaflor that is safe to use with every watering, year around, to maintain flowering indoors. You may also apply Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 6 months.
- Pest watch: Check undersides of leaves for aphids or whitefly. A light spray of neem oil or insecticidal soap clears them fast.
"Whether you crave golden summer fireworks or soft orchid blooms that last nearly all year, both Cassia and Bauhinia bring pure joy to the garden. 💖 Bring color that never quits."
Did you know: Fall is the best planting season — roots grow faster and you’ll have flowers by spring!
Date: 6 Dec 2025
🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 2.Temperature. ❄️
Smokey: Too cold. We need more heaters so the plants feel comfortable.
Sunshine: I feel comfortable.
Smokey: You are not part of my plant collection, but I am glad you are comfortable.
🌡️ TEMPERATURE: THE TROPICAL DORMANCY LINE
In Part 1 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) we covered the foundation: light, placement, and acclimation. That is the survival layer.
Most tropicals stop growing below 70 to 75 F. They stay green, but their engine shuts down.
Below 70F:
- Water intake drops.
- Roots slow down.
- Fertilizing becomes risky.
- Root root becomes easy.
If you WANT your plants to grow in winter, you must take care of everything: Warmth, light, humidity, water. It all works together.
- Aim for 75 F with bright light. Water lightly. No fertilizer.
- Watch out for drafts. Cold windows. Door blasts. Garage entryways. Even one gust can trigger leaf drop.
- Vents are the opposite problem: hot, dry, dusty air. That gives you crispy edges and mites. Root zone temperature matters just as much as room air. Your thermostat may say 72 F, but your pot on a tile floor may be sitting at 55 F. Fix this by elevating pots on boards or stands. Use Styrofoam. Never keep pots directly on cold tile o windowsill
- Extra winter heat: Space heaters are fine if used smartly. Do not blow hot air directly on plants. Keep heaters away from cords, trays, and water. Oil filled radiators are the safest option for plant rooms.
- Use a humidifier if you want growth or want to prevent spider mites. But do not blow mist directly onto leaves. Always place the unit lower than the plant canopy.
- Grouping helps. Put tropical plants close together to share humidity. Do not mix succulents with humidity lovers.
- Cats and dogs love to knock over lights and stands. Secure your fixtures. Trust us.
- Airflow: Light airflow is healthy. Direct fan blast is not. Still, dry corners invite mites.
- A mild night drop is OK. A big one below 55 F will stop growth completely.
A mandevilla thriving indoors with bright pink blooms and glossy green leaves.
☂️ PLACEMENT: MICROCLIMATES RULE EVERYTHING
Indoors is one big tradeoff: light but cold near windows, warm but dim away from them. The winning combo is a warm room with supplemental light.
Best zones to keep plants in winter:
- South or east windows with additional light
- Warm living spaces
- Bright bathrooms for natural humidity
Worst zones to keep plants in winter:
- Behind curtains
- Directly on windowsills
- Near heaters or vents
- Against cold exterior walls
- Dark corners without supplemental lighting
A vigorous indoor philodendron stretching across the window.
💨 ACCLIMATION
Moving a plant from outdoors to indoors is a shock. Light drops. Humidity drops. Airflow stops. Soil cools. Even healthy plants may drop some leaves for a few weeks. That is normal.
Before you bring them inside:
- Rinse foliage to remove dust and pests. We recommend Sunshine NoBug - and organic, safe solution.
- Check for ants.
- Trim weak branches.
- Treat soil if fungus gnats are present.
Try to bring plants inside before the first cold front, not after. If you are reading this too late, do the prep now and expect a little leaf drop.
If you nail light and temperature, winter becomes simple. In the next mail-list we will cover watering, fertilizer timing, humidity, and other indoor tricks that keep tropicals happy till spring. Stay tuned.
Cat Bob is inspecting his indoor garden around the tub with a bright skylight
✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT
Q: Why are leaves dropping only on the window side?
A: Cold glass. The room may be warm, but the glass surface can be much colder.
Q: Is a cold room OK for tropicals?
A: They may survive, but they will not grow below about 65F to 75F. When nights stay below 65F for a week, many plants enter dormancy.
Q: My room feels warm. Why is my plant still not growing?
A: Check the soil temperature. Pots on cold tile can be 10 to 20F colder than the air.
Q: Can plants sit directly on the floor?
A: Not on cold tile. Always elevate them on boards, stands, or trays.
Q: Is it OK to keep plants near a heater or vent?
A: No. Vents and heaters blast hot, dry air and cause crispy leaves and mites.
Q: My plant is dropping leaves after coming indoors. Why?
A: Normal acclimation to reduced light and humidity right after the move.
Q: Can I keep plants in a bright bathroom?
A: Yes. Bathrooms can have good humidity. Just keep pots off cold tile.
Q: Do I need a humidifier?
A: Not for survival. Yes if you want better growth and fewer pests like spider mites.
Q: Do I need a grow tent?
A: No. A bright LED plus a warm room is enough for winter holding.
Q: Should I fertilize in winter?
A: Not now. Winter fertilizer rules will be covered in the next mail-list.
Q: Should I water the same as in summer?
A: No. Indoor plants need much less water in winter. Watering rules also coming soon.
📚 Learn more:
- Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 1: Lighting
- SUNSHINE NoBug - Natural Plant Protector
- How to overwinter tropical plants indoors
- Feeding indoor plants
- Overwintering Adeniums outside of tropics
Date: 6 Dec 2025
🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 1: Lighting ❄️
Smokey: "Winter lighting must be precise. I need this light exactly at 14
inches."
Sunshine: "Sure. I am holding this… little number thing."
Smokey: "It reads humidity. Your main job is to look cute."
🌞 LIGHT, TEMPERATURE, PLACEMENT
Winter indoors is a different kind of battlefield. Dark rooms. Dry air. Cold windows. Random drafts. Weak light. Sad plants. We've been talking about keeping your tropicals alive outdoors previously. But some of you have no choice this time of year. You have to bring the jungle inside.
If that is you, then this is your plant survival guide.
☀️ LIGHT: THE WINTER LIFELINE
Light advice here comes straight from our in-house expert, Michael Dubinovsky, a high-tech lighting engineer with over 30 years of hands-on experience. If he says brightness beats hours, trust him.
Here is the truth: Indoor light in winter is 10 to 50 times weaker than outdoors. Short days. Low-angle sun. Windows filtering half the useful light. It all adds up.
Tropicals need 10 to 12 hours of real brightness. Winter sun cannot do that on its own. Not even in a big window. So we help them.
Use bright LED shop lights or utility lights. 5000K to 6500K CCT. High lumen output. Skip decorative bulbs. Skip purple grow fancy toy lights. If you want a single plant light, even a clamp lamp is fine if you screw in a bright daylight LED bulb.
Panels work best for plant clusters. Bars for shelves. Bulbs for single plants. And grouping plants under one bright panel always beats spreading them out.
Distance matters: keep LEDs about 12 to 18 inches above the leaves. Too close: leaf burn. Too far: stretching, weak stems.
Leaves reaching up? Light is too high or too weak. Leaves curling down? Light is too close.
If you want a reality check, download any smartphone lux meter app. Most indoor corners are 50 to 200 lux without supplemental light. Tropicals want much more
And a quick tip about windows: winter sun comes in sideways. A spot that looks bright at noon can go dull by 2 PM. Don't count of window light
Bright light or long hours
People try to fix weak light by running it for 16 or 18 hours. That does not work. Plants care more about light intensity. A few hours of strong light beats all-day dim light. If the light is weak, adding more hours will not change anything except your electric bill.
Simple rule: Short duration but bright is always better than long duration but weak. - by Michael, Top Tropicals lighting expert
No need for fancy horticultural panels
You do not need purple grow lights. You do not need special horticultural fixtures. You do not need expensive panels unless you want real winter growth.
For winter plant holding till spring, the inexpensive solution works great:
- Bright LED daylight bulbs (5000K to 6500K) from hardware store
- High lumen output
- Inexpensive clamp lamps
- Aim directly at the plant from 12 to 18 inches
This setup keeps tropicals happy until spring without buying anything fancy. Save the money for soil, pots, or your next plant.
Indoor plant lighting safety note:
- Use timers. Keep cords dry. Do not overload outlets.
- Do not hang lights over humidifiers.
- And do not put fixtures on piles of books to raise them. People do this.
✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT
Q: I am in Home Depot. Which light do I buy?
A: LED shop light, daylight color (5000K to 6500K), high lumens. Skip fancy plant bulbs.
Q: Can I use clamp lamps or floor lamps for plants?
A: Yes. Clamp lamps with a bright daylight LED bulb work great for winter holding.
Q: Do I need special horticultural grow lights?
A: No. A bright LED daylight bulb works fine for winter. Save the fancy lights for real growth projects.
Q: How far should the light be from the plant?
A: About 12 to 18 inches above the leaves. Too close burns. Too far stretches.
Q: Can I run weak lights for 18 hours to compensate?
A: No. Weak light plus long hours still equals a weak plant. Brightness matters more than hours.
Q: How do I know if a spot is bright enough?
A: Use a free phone lux app. Most indoor corners are much too dim for tropicals.
Q: I have a huge window. Why do I still need LEDs?
A: Indoor winter light is weak, short, and filtered by glass. Plants want intensity, not just a big window.
Q: My window faces north. Now what?
A: North windows are decorative only. Use supplemental lighting or move the plant.