👻 When plants grow wings...

🌴 Twilight in the garden. Smokey is holding a glowing pumpkin. Sunshine is sipping cocoa.

Sunshine: "Smokey, why does that plant look like it wants to fly away?"
Smokey: "That’s the Bat Lily - Tacca. It’s rare, it’s weird, and it’s in bloom just in time for Halloween."
Sunshine: "Figures. You always find the spooky ones."

Meet the Bat Lily (Tacca)

Tacca is also called the Bat Lily or Devil Flower. This tropical wonder grows bat-shaped wings and foot-long whiskers. The black form (Tacca chantrieri) looks straight out of a gothic dream, while the white one (Tacca nivea) is ghost-like and elegant.

Some of our plants are blooming right now in the nursery — true Halloween magic! Blooms are delicate and may not travel, but the plants are strong and will flower again soon in your care.

Black Bat Lily (Tacca chantrieri) with dark maroon wings and long whiskers

White Bat Lily (Tacca nivea) in bloom with wide ivory wings

"The White Bat Lily (Tacca nivea) is bold and sculptural, with oversized ivory wings that command attention. Its pale bracts stretch wide above clusters of deep maroon flowers, and long, silvery whiskers spill gracefully through the foliage. In filtered light, the plant seems to glow from within — elegant, crisp, and perfectly balanced between the strange and the beautiful. If I could pick, I’d go with the White Tacca. It feels more architectural, more balanced — those oversized wings catch light in a way that shows off every vein and curve. It looks engineered by nature, almost like an alien design prototype that actually works.

The Black Bat Lily (Tacca chantrieri) feels alive with shadow. Its dark maroon wings and wiry whiskers make it look like something that fluttered out of the jungle at dusk. The bloom’s layered structure and near-black sheen give it a quiet power — mysterious, understated, but impossible to ignore. But if I were designing mood lighting for a greenhouse at night, the Black Tacca wins. It’s subtle, mysterious, like a secret only visible up close. Together, they’re perfect opposites — yin and yang of the tropical underworld: white for daylight, black for moonlight." — says Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

👉 Collect Tacca plants:

Black - Tacca chantrieri

White - Tacca nivea

Green - Tacca leontopetaloides

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❄️ How to Prepare Your Tropical Garden for Winter

Smokey and Sunshine Wrap Up the Garden with Frost Cloth Before the Chill.

Smokey: "Thermometer says 45. Time to wrap the bananas!"
Sunshine: "You wrap the bananas. I’ll guard the mulch… from this sunny spot."
Smokey: "Teamwork, Sunshine. Teamwork."

🌡️ Cold nights are coming - but your tropicals do not need to shiver!

Even in sunny Florida and other warm zones, one cold snap can undo months of growth. Preparation is everything. Tropical plants can handle a lot, but they dislike surprises. Let’s make sure your garden stays safe, strong, and happy all winter long.

Tips from Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

👉 Group and Check Your Plants

You already know which plants are in pots and which are in the ground. What matters now is prioritizing by cold sensitivity. Identify the tender tropicals – papaya, banana, plumeria, adenium, heliconia – and decide which ones get covered first when temperatures drop. Keep frost cloths or old sheets near those areas, ready to grab fast. If your garden is large, label protection zones or mark plants that always need extra care. The goal is to have a plan, not a panic, when the cold alert hits.

Once you know your priorities, you can plan the rest of your protection strategy.

👉 Feed and Mulch

Stop using high-nitrogen fertilizers by late fall. They push soft new growth that freezes easily. Add compost around the base of your plants and top with 3 to 4 inches of mulch. Mulch acts like a blanket: it keeps warmth in, protects the roots, and keeps soil moisture steady. Just make sure the soil drains well; cold and soggy soil leads to root rot. In raised beds, check that water flows away easily.

After you feed and mulch, it is time to look at how your local zone changes the game.

👉 Zone-by-Zone Tips

Moving Tropical Plants Indoors for Winter Protection

• Zone 10: You are lucky! This is mostly a maintenance season. Watch for root rot after heavy rain, trim lightly if needed, and protect tender young trees during surprise chills. Keep some frost cloth ready just in case.
• Zone 9: This is the main action zone. Nights can dip into the 30s. Deep-water your trees once before cold nights to insulate the roots. Apply heavy mulch, and have frost protection ready to go. If you grow tropical fruit like mango or guava, consider wrapping young trunks in burlap or foam pipe insulation.
• Zone 8: This is where tropical gardening becomes creative. Stick to cold-hardy tropicals such as loquat, guava, or cold-hardy avocado varieties. Use portable greenhouses, wrap trunks, and move smaller plants indoors or to a heated porch when frost threatens.

Now that the garden beds are set, let’s look at your pots and containers – your most mobile plants.

👉 Container and Patio Plants

Potted plants are the easiest to protect but also the quickest to freeze. Start reducing watering now so roots do not stay too wet in cooler weather. Before moving them, check for insects hiding under leaves or in the soil. Group your pots close to a wall for reflected heat and wind protection. If you plan to bring them indoors, do it gradually. Move them closer to the house for a few days before bringing them all the way inside to help them adjust to lower light and humidity.

When the chill starts, many gardeners rush to move everything inside at once – but a smooth transition works much better.

👉 Indoor Plants

When bringing plants inside, give them a good rinse to remove dust and bugs, and flush the soil to wash out salts from summer fertilizing. Keep them separate from your houseplants for a week to make sure no pests come along. Expect some leaf drop – it is normal as they adjust to lower light. Give them bright light near a window, and cut watering by about half until spring. Avoid misting too much; good airflow matters more than humidity during winter.

Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.

👉 Timing Is Everything

The key is to prepare before the first cold warning. Check your weather app regularly once nights start dropping into the 50s. Keep covers, mulch, and supplies ready so you are not running outside at midnight with a flashlight and a frozen hose. Have your frost cloths labeled by plant group and stored in an easy spot. A little organization now saves a lot of stress later.

Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.

Remember: the goal is to help your plants rest safely. Many gardeners prune or fertilize too late in the season – we will talk about why that can be risky next week."— says Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

Coming next mail-list: The best gadgets for cold protection (lights, heaters, frost covers) and what NOT to do in winter.

📚 Learn more from Top Tropicals Blog:

Cold protection - winter action for your plant collection

What plants are good to order in Winter?

How to take care of house plants in Winter

How to protect tropical plants in Winter

How to take care of a mango tree in winter

How to protect Avocado from cold

Overwintering Adeniums outside of tropics

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Smokey and Sunshine

Sunshine: Newsletter?
Smokey: Yes.
Sunshine: Another article?
Smokey: No.
Sunshine: Advice?
Smokey: Also no.
Sunshine: Just plants?
Smokey: Just plants. New arrivals and top picks by our horticulturist
Sunshine: Perfect. I just enjoy the plants and coffee. Hope everyone reading does too.

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❄️ The Hardiness Report: February 2026 ❄️

🐾 Smokey & Sunshine’s real-world survival data from our Sebring, Florida Research Gardens. Smokey analyzed the data. Sunshine just stayed happy. Here is what they found.

📊 Weather Data – February 1–6, 2026

Sebring, Florida – 132 years of recorded observations
This was not a light frost. It was a prolonged, windy, penetrating hard freeze.

• 🌡 Minimum temperature: 25F
• ❄️ Wind chill: 14F
• ⏳ Duration: 3 nights of 8–10 hour hard freeze
• ☀️ Daytime temperatures: around 50F for 7 days
• 🌀 Wind: sustained 20 mph, gusts 40–50 mph

While all our plants in pots were protected in greenhouses, our in-ground plantings faced the freeze outdoors. We covered what we could. Even so, some plants were damaged, some died, and some surprised us by surviving.

In the next few newsletters, we will share the real survivors - the plants that proved themselves in the ground, under real conditions. Smokey and Sunshine have been out in the fields assessing the damage from the February 1–6 freeze. While many plants struggled, the Macadamia proved to be a true standout. This is how we grow them to handle the tough years.

Why does this matter? Because we have gotten used to warm winters, and this freeze was a rude awakening. Not everyone lives in Miami. If you garden in places where a real cold event can happen, you have to be prepared - and you have to plant what can take it.

🌰 Macadamia: Freeze Tested and Standing

When temperatures dropped to 25F with wind chill near 14F, our established macadamia trees remained upright, green, and structurally intact. Leaves held. Branches stayed firm. No collapse, no panic.

That is not luck. That is macadamia hardiness.

Often considered a "tropical luxury nut," macadamia proved it can handle more than many gardeners expect. In USDA Zones 9b-11, with proper drainage and site selection, it is not just ornamental - it is a long-term food tree with real resilience.

In a winter that reminded us not to take warmth for granted, macadamia earned its place on the survivor list.

The nut itself is famous for its strength. The shell is among the hardest in the nut world, requiring serious pressure to crack. Inside, the kernel is creamy, buttery, rich, and deeply satisfying. High in monounsaturated fats and naturally low in sugar, macadamias have long been valued both for flavor and for nutrition.

The tree is equally impressive. An evergreen with tough leaves and elegant spring flowers, it matures into a productive, manageable canopy. Nuts develop slowly over six to seven months. Production begins in a few years and increases steadily as the tree matures. Plant it once, and it can reward you for decades.

Cold will come again. It always does. The question is not whether winter will test your garden. The question is whether your trees are ready. Macadamia proved it is. If you are building a garden that feeds you for decades, this is a tree worth planting.

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

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Eugenia Cherries 🍒

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

Growing Eugenia Cherries (Cherry of the Rio Grande & Grumichama)

Cherry of the Rio Grande and Grumichama are compact, adaptable tropical fruit trees well suited to Southern landscapes. While forgiving, they perform best when planted correctly from the beginning.

Site and Planting

• Drainage is essential. Avoid low areas where water collects. Plant on a slight mound if soil is heavy or clay-like.
• Choose full sun for best flowering and fruit production. Partial shade is tolerated.
• A south or southeast exposure near a wall improves cold resilience and reduces wind stress.
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root ball.
• Set the tree level with surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.

Water and Feeding

• Water regularly during the first few months while roots establish.
• Once established, trees tolerate short dry periods but fruit best with moderate, consistent moisture.
• Feed lightly and consistenly. SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta liquid fertilizer is safe to use with with every watering. During hot season you may add controlled release Green Magic every 6 months. It is essential to apply micro elements: Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex

Cold Tolerance

• Protect young trees during hard freezes.
• Established Cherry of the Rio Grande can tolerate brief drops into the low 20s.
• Established Grumichama tolerates temperatures into the upper 20s.

Harvest and Production

• Cherry of the Rio Grande fruits from late spring into summer. Pick when fully dark and slightly soft.
• Grumichama ripens quickly, often within four weeks after flowering. Pick when glossy and deep purple-black.
• Both trees often begin fruiting within 2–3 years and increase production steadily with maturity.

Growing in Containers

• Use at least a 10–20 gallon pot for long-term growth.
• Ensure multiple drainage holes.
• Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot growing
• Place in full sun for best fruiting.
• Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again.
• Move containers to a protected area during hard freezes.
• Prune lightly to maintain shape and airflow.

Common Mistakes

• Planting in poorly drained soil.
• Overwatering and keeping soil constantly saturated.
• Over-fertilizing with excessive nitrogen.
• Planting too deep and burying the trunk.
• Expecting heavy crops immediately instead of allowing time for maturity.
• Skipping cold protection for young plants.

Learn more: Tropical Cherries – Eugenias

❓Frequently Asked Questions: Eugenia cherries (FAQ)

• Which one tastes better – Cherry of the Rio Grande or Grumichama?
  Cherry of the Rio Grande has a deeper, classic “sweet cherry” flavor with slight richness. Grumichama is softer, juicier, and often described as cherry with hints of grape and plum. Both are excellent fresh; Grumichama is especially popular for jam.
• Which tree produces more fruit?
  Grumichama typically produces heavier crops once mature and can carry hundreds of fruits in a season. Cherry of the Rio Grande produces consistently but in slightly smaller volumes.
• Do birds take all the fruit?
  Birds are attracted to both trees, especially Grumichama. Netting during peak ripening or harvesting promptly usually solves the issue.
• Are these true "tropical" trees or subtropical?
  They are best described as subtropical tropicals. Unlike ultra-tender tropical fruits, Eugenia cherries tolerate occasional frost once established, making them more reliable in Southern landscapes.
• Do they drop fruit messily?
  Fruit will fall if overripe, but the trees are compact and manageable. Regular harvesting prevents ground drop and keeps the area clean.
• Can they be used for hedging or screening?
  Yes. Their dense evergreen foliage and upright growth make them suitable for edible hedges or privacy screens while still producing fruit.

Choosing between them is not about survival — both have proven resilient. It is about flavor preference, crop volume, and how you want to use the fruit in your kitchen and landscape.

🛒 Add Eugenia cherries to your garden

✍️ Top Ten Fruit Tree Winners of Florida 2026 Record Freeze

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