Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 27 Feb 2025

What Fertilizer to Use Now and How?
Five important keys to healthy plants

Sunshine  Boosters  Selection

Q: It's early Spring this year. Should I start fertilizing my plants sooner than usual?

A: Most fertilizer instructions recommend fertilizing tropical plants from March to November. This is because plants don't need as much food during the cooler months when many go dormant, and excess nutrients can burn the roots if not absorbed. However, for the most effective fertilizer program and healthy plants, consider these points:

1. Sunshine Boosters Year-Round

Liquid amino-acid-based fertilizers like Sunshine Boosters are safe to use year-round. Since watering is reduced in cooler weather, the intake of water-soluble fertilizer is also lower, providing plants with just the essential nutrients for their minimal needs.

2. Dry Fertilizer Schedule

Be cautious with dry fertilizers. Apply them only during active growth in the hot season.

3. Temperature Is Key

If March is still cold, delay dry fertilizer use. However, if nighttime temperatures in February stay above 65F, you can start a dry fertilizer program using slow-release, granulated plant food.

4. What Fertilizers to Use and How

Check out our Sunshine Boosters selection for different types of plants and choose the right type for your needs. These can be applied as often as with every watering:

For Rapid Growth
Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster: general fertilizer for both foliage plants and small starters that need an extra boost.

For Flowers
Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster: boosts flowers on established plants; and Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster: best for fragrant flowers.

For Fruit Trees
Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster: contains all necessary elements for fruit trees and their production. Sunshine Mango Tango - specifically formulated for Mango and Avocado trees, and Sunshine Citron - ideal for citrus trees.

For Tender Perennials
Sunshine Orchidasm - Orchid Total Feed and Sunshine Ananas - Pineapple and Bromeliad Booster: mild formulas for these tender perennials.

5. Microelement Supplements Are a Must

Besides macronutrients, plants need additional microelements, just like humans need vitamins. Be sure to apply these supplements along with your regular plant food:

For Green Leaves and Health
Sunshine SuperFood - Complex Microelement Supplement: a must for healthy plants. Apply once a month.

For Stress Relief
Sunshine-Epi - Brassinosteroid Plant Hormone: essential for plants recovering from stress (shipping, transplanting, drought, insect damage, cold stress, etc.). Apply as needed.

For Sweeter, Bigger Fruit
Sunshine Honey - Fruit Sugar Booster: application on fruit trees will make fruit bigger and sweeter by directing sugars to the fruit from other plant parts, and helps to prevent bud drop. Apply 4 times a year: at bud setting, flowering, fruit setting, and after harvesting.

For Better Resistance
Sunshine Power Si - Silicon Protector - enhances resistance to insects, diseases, drought, and frost, while boosting growth. Apply once a month, along with Sunshine SuperFood.

Need Help? Our Plant Experts Are Ready to Assist!

Microelements  and  supplements  for 
 


plants

Date: 18 Oct 2019

Using SUNSHINE Complete Nutrition System

For hydroponics and potted plants

Q: I recently bought both the 5ml of the sunshine epi and the 100 ml advanced nutrition kit. I read on the paper for the Epi not to use any other strong fertilizers along with this but I was wondering if it'd be alright to use both this foliar spray and nutrition watering together?

A: All solutions in SUNSHINE Booster Nutrition System (NPK-macro and micro-boosters) are compatible.
The only exception is Sunshine-Epi - brassinosteroid bio-stimulant. Epi should be mixed with distilled water separately from other boosters. The reason is, it is very bio-active, and if mixed with other compounds, oxidizes quickly which may affect its performance.

Sunshine-Epi solution must be prepared using distilled water and applied as foliar spray only (it only works on contact with leaves and not through the root system). Epi shows extremely impressive results when you apply it before the application of other nutrients because it increases plant metabolism; so all boosters become even more effective if you spray Epi the day before.

When using Micro- and Macro-boosters, you may mix all components in one watering can/tank (except for Epi), using regular tap water. Besides watering root ball, the macro-micro solution can be also used for foliar spray. It is optional, as in some circumstances growers prefer to keep leaves dry at all times: to stay away from mold, fungus and other issues caused by the wet environment.

Here is an example of Sunshine Boosters Nutrition System application:
1. Daily watering in one can: NPK 25 ml/gal (one of 5, depending on growth stage) + Constanta 5 ml/gal + Ca-Support 5 ml/gal, mixed in tap water
2. Every 2 weeks: spray Sunshine-Epi 2.5 ml/gal - to boost the immune system and growth rate, mixed in distilled water
3. From daily to every 2 weeks: Sunshine-Power-Si 25 ml/gal to protect from diseases and keep pH at 5.5-6.5. Can be used as often as daily and mixed with a daily watering solution (1)
4. As needed: Sunshine SuperFood and GreenLeaf - for correcting deficiencies. Can be also mixed with the daily solution (1)

Make sure to prepare a solution right before use and do not store solution for more than 1 day. Keep concentrates and solutions protected from bright sunlight.

Here is also advanced information on Sunshine Boosters compatibility.

READ MORE >>>

Date: 3 Mar 2025

What Fertilizer to Use Now and How?

Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster

Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster

Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster

Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster

Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster

Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster

Sunshine Mango Tango for Mango and Avocado trees

Sunshine Mango Tango for Mango and Avocado trees

Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster

Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster

🍲 What Fertilizer to Use Now and How?
Part 2. Macro elements, or everyday plant food



Sunshine Booster for different types of plants can be applied as often as with every watering.
  • ✔️ For Rapid Growth


    Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster: general fertilizer for both foliage plants and small starters that need an extra boost.
  • ✔️ For Flowers


    Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster: boosts flowers on established plants; and Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster: best for fragrant flowers.
  • ✔️ For Fruit Trees


    Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster: contains all necessary elements for fruit trees and their production.
    Sunshine Mango Tango - specifically formulated for Mango and Avocado trees, and Sunshine Citron - ideal for citrus trees.
  • ✔️ For Tender Perennials


    Sunshine Orchidasm - Orchid Total Feed and Sunshine Ananas - Pineapple and Bromeliad Booster: mild formulas for these tender perennials.
  • ✔️ Microelement Supplements Are a Must



    Besides macronutrients, plants need additional microelements, just like humans need vitamins. We will explain in details about micro-elements in our next post 🔽


🛍 Shop Sunshine Boosters

#Fertilizers #How_to

🔴 Join 👉 TopTropicals

Date: 17 Nov 2025

❄️Cold Night Survival Guide

Smokey,  a  black-and-white  tuxedo  cat,  loads  a  wheelbarrow  with  potted 
 

tropical  plants  while  Sunshine,  a  fluffy  orange  tabby,  pretends  to  cover  a 
 

mango  tree  with  frost  cloth  as  evening  light  warms  the  tropical  garden.

Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.

Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!

When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous cold-weather newsletter.

"We all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A single cold night does not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant Expert

🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE

A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below 32 F. The tricky part is that you can get frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew point is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.

Frost  on  grass  and  leaves

Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central Florida

WHAT TO DO AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP

✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:

  1. Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed ones.
  2. Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
  3. Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
  4. Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get light.
  5. Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style 15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.

❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:

  1. Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
  2. Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
  3. Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
  4. Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows down as watering decreases.
  5. Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse than a short freeze.

TEMPERATURE ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)

  • 40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover tender tropicals.
  • 37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does not lift it.
  • 32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
  • 29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and protect roots heavily.

COLD TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE

Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in our Tropical Plants Encyclopedia — it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next cold snap hits.

  • Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
  • Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
  • Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must be protected
  • Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch

QUICK-ACTION TABLE

Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.

  • Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright light.
  • Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not plastic on leaves.
  • Leave Outside: Eugenias, Peaches, Persimmons, Longan, Lychee, Papaya, Citrus, Loquat, Hardy Avocado. Add mulch and monitor overnight lows.

🛒 Check out cold tolerant tropicals

Covering  large  mango  and  avocado  trees  in  pots

Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during cold nights

GADGETS AND TOOLS THAT HELP

  • Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats, timers.
  • Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.

Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety check can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.

And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather, and gives plants an extra edge.

AFTER THE COLD PASSES

In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air, light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic must come off as soon as the sun rises.

Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze, but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring. That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.

Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the branch survives.

Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like Sunshine Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning tender tissue.

Dwarf  Ceiba  Pink  Princess  in  full  bloom

Dwarf Ceiba Pink Princess (Grafted) - a unique compact cultivar covered with pink flowers in Winter. Watch short video: How this breath-taking flowering tree stays so compact.

WHAT NOT TO DO

  • Do not prune right after a freeze.
  • Do not overwater cold soil.
  • Do not fertilize heavily until spring.
  • Do not leave covers on in full sun.

CLOSING THOUGHT

Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants, have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your collection healthy all winter.

Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in, keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last minute. Sunshine Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather returns.

A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana, citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to grow.

🛒 Shop Garden Supplies

Add Heat Pack to your plant order

Cats  adding  heat  pack  to  plant  shipment

Date: 23 Feb 2026

Macadamia Tree Care

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

Mature  macadamia  tree  with  well-shaped  canopy  growing  in  Florida 
 


orchard.

Macadamia tree maturing into a productive, manageable canopy.

🌳 Growing Macadamia Tree

Macadamia is not a fragile tree, but it does have preferences. If you respect them from the beginning, the tree rewards you for decades.

  • Start with the site. Drainage is everything. Macadamia will tolerate cool weather better if planted in a well-drained area. Avoid low spots where water sits after rain. If your soil is dense or clay-like, build a mound or improve drainage before planting.
  • Choose full sun whenever possible for the best nut production.
  • Planting location matters. A south or southeast exposure near a wall can create a warmer microclimate that buffers cold nights. Freeze plus wind is more damaging than temperature alone. Macadamia handles cold better when protected from winter wind.
  • Dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root ball. Set the tree level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
  • Water regularly during the first three months while the tree establishes roots.
  • Fertilize lightly. Macadamia does not respond well to over-fertilizing. Macadamias prefer mild liquid fertilizers, SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta is ideal for it. You may also use controlled release Green Magic every 6 months, it is especially formulated for hot climate. To keep leaves healthy deep green without yellowing, micro elements must be applied on regular basis, we recommend to always have handy Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
  • Young trees should be protected if temperatures drop below freezing. Once established, they become far more resilient.
  • Harvest timing: Nuts mature 6-7 months after flowering. Husk splits naturally when ready. Fallen nuts should be collected quickly.
  • Flower and Nut Drop: Many gardeners panic when they see flowers or small nuts drop, but Macadamia naturally sheds excess fruit. It does not mean failure; the tree simply keeps what it can afford to feed.
  • Macadamia is relatively low-maintenance, but watch for squirrels and rats. They love the rich nuts as much as humans do, so be sure to collect fallen nuts quickly.
  • Root Sensitivity: Macadamia roots dislike disturbance. Transplant carefully. Avoid root damage.
  • Macadamia is not a fast-return crop. It begins producing a few years and increases gradually. But once mature, it becomes a steady, reliable part of your garden.

Learn more: Macadamia - Hard Sweet Nut and Hardy Tree

Fresh  green  macadamia  fruit  and  brown  hard-shelled  nuts  collected  in  a 
 


bowl.

Macadamia fruit showing green outer husk and mature brown shell inside.

🌱 Growing Macadamia in a Pot

  • Container size: Start large. A 15-25 gallon pot is ideal for long-term growth.
  • Drainage: Critical. Use a container with multiple drainage holes.
  • Soil mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot growing
  • Light: Full sun is best. Strong light improves flowering and nut production.
  • Watering: Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again. Avoid constant saturation.
  • Feed lightly and consistenly. SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta liquid fertilizer is safe to use with with every watering. During hot season you may add controlled release Green Magic every 6 months. It is essential to apply micro elements on Macadamias: Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
  • Cold protection: If temperatures drop below freezing, move the container to a protected area such as a garage or greenhouse.
  • Pruning: Prune lightly to control size and maintain airflow within the canopy.
  • Expectations: Container trees may produce fewer nuts than in-ground trees, but they offer mobility and climate control.
  • Smokey says: Container trees offer mobility and climate control so you never have to worry about a freeze!

✍️ More About Macadamia from Garden Blog

Green  macadamia  nuts  developing  on  tree  branch  among  glossy  leaves.

Macadamia nuts developing on the tree before the husk splits.

🚫 Common Mistakes When Growing Macadamia

  • Planting in poorly drained soil:
    The most common mistake. Macadamia will decline quickly in heavy, waterlogged ground. If drainage is questionable, plant on a mound.
  • Overwatering young trees:
    Newly planted trees need consistent moisture, not constant saturation. Wet roots lead to root problems.
  • Over-fertilizing:
    Too much fertilizer causes weak growth and nutrient imbalance. Feed lightly and avoid heavy nitrogen applications.
  • Planting too deep:
    The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
  • Ignoring micronutrients:
    Macadamia is very prone to iron, zinc, and copper deficiencies. Yellowing leaves may signal a micronutrient issue. Applly Sunshine Superfood on regular basis.
  • Expecting instant production:
    Macadamia takes time. Early years build structure. Patience is part of success.
  • Skipping cold protection for young trees:
    Established trees are tougher, but young plants should be protected below freezing.

Macadamia  tree  in  full  bloom  covered  with  long  orange  flower  racemes.

Macadamia tree in full bloom with abundant flower clusters.

❓Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

  • Is Macadamia toxic to pets? While the nuts are a superfood for humans, they are toxic to dogs. If you have a dog that tends to forage in the garden, ensure you harvest fallen nuts promptly or fence the base of the tree during the drop season.
  • Which varieties are best for the "Survivor" garden? Look for Macadamia integrifolia (smooth-shell) or hybrids like 'Beaumont' (M. tetraphylla x M. integrifolia). Hybrids often show slightly better cold tolerance and more consistent "home garden" production.
  • How tall will my tree get? In the ground, an unpruned Macadamia can reach 20–30 feet. However, they respond very well to "heading back" (pruning the top) to keep them at a manageable 12–15 feet for easy harvesting.
  • Do I need two trees for cross-pollination? Macadamias are self-fertile, meaning one tree will produce nuts. However, planting two varieties near each other often results in a significantly heavier "nut set" due to cross-pollination.
  • Why are the leaves on my Macadamia prickly? Don't panic—this is normal! Some species, particularly M. tetraphylla, have serrated, holly-like leaves. This actually makes them a great "defensive" hedge against intruders or deer.
  • When exactly should I harvest? The tree tells you when it's ready. Don't shake the tree; wait for the nuts to fall naturally. In Florida, this usually happens between August and November. If the green outer husk hasn't split yet, let them sit in a shaded, dry spot until they do.
  • My tree has "clusters" of flowers but no nuts. What happened? Macadamias produce long racemes (flower spikes) with hundreds of tiny blooms. It is normal for 90% of these to fall off. The tree only keeps what it can afford to "feed." Boost your success by using a combination of Sunshine C-Cibus liquid fertilizer and SUNSHINE Superfood micro element supplement during the flowering stage to help the tree retain more fruit.
  • Can I grow them from a nut I bought at the store? Unlikely. Commercial nuts are usually roasted or dried at high heat, killing the embryo. Even if a raw nut sprouts, it may take 10–12 years to fruit and the quality is a gamble. Buying a grafted tree saves you a decade of waiting.

We don’t just sell plants; we test them. The data from this February freeze proves that with the right selection and proper drainage, 'tropical' doesn’t have to mean 'fragile.' Don’t wait for the next cold front to find out what in your garden is vulnerable. It is time to replace those empty spots with proven survivors that offer both beauty and a premium harvest. If it can stand up to 25F in our fields, it’s ready for your backyard.

Coming in Part 2...

Smokey is already crunching the numbers on our next survivor, and Sunshine found another tree that stayed perfectly green in the wind. Stay tuned to see which fruit tree made the cut!

Macadamia  tree  covered  in  long  pink  flower  racemes  during  peak  bloom.

Macadamia flowers forming long cascading racemes before nut set.

🎥 More Macadamia videos from our channel

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden