What
Fertilizer to Use Now and How?
Five important keys to healthy plants
Q: It's early Spring this year. Should I start
fertilizing my plants sooner than usual?
A: Most fertilizer instructions recommend
fertilizing tropical plants from March to November. This is because plants don't
need as much food during the cooler months when many go dormant, and excess
nutrients can burn the roots if not absorbed. However, for the most effective
fertilizer program and healthy plants, consider these points:
1. Sunshine Boosters
Year-Round
Liquid amino-acid-based fertilizers like Sunshine Boosters are safe to use year-round. Since watering is reduced
in cooler weather, the intake of water-soluble fertilizer is also lower,
providing plants with just the essential nutrients for their minimal needs.
2. Dry Fertilizer Schedule
Be cautious with dry fertilizers. Apply them only during active growth
in the hot season.
3. Temperature Is Key
If March is still cold, delay dry fertilizer use. However, if nighttime
temperatures in February stay above 65F, you can start a dry fertilizer
program using slow-release, granulated plant food.
4. What Fertilizers to Use and
How
Check out our Sunshine Boosters selection for different types of plants and choose
the right type for your needs. These can be applied as often as with every
watering:
For Rapid Growth
Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster: general fertilizer for both foliage
plants and small starters that need an extra boost.
For Flowers
Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster: boosts flowers on established plants; and Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster: best for fragrant flowers.
For Fruit Trees
Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster: contains all necessary elements for fruit trees and their production. Sunshine Mango Tango - specifically formulated for Mango and Avocado
trees, and Sunshine Citron - ideal for citrus trees.
For Tender Perennials
Sunshine Orchidasm - Orchid Total Feed and Sunshine Ananas - Pineapple and Bromeliad Booster: mild formulas for these tender perennials.
5. Microelement Supplements Are a Must
Besides macronutrients, plants need additional microelements, just like
humans need vitamins. Be sure to apply these supplements along with your
regular plant food:
For Green Leaves and Health Sunshine SuperFood - Complex Microelement Supplement: a
must for healthy plants. Apply once a month.
For Stress Relief Sunshine-Epi - Brassinosteroid Plant
Hormone: essential for plants recovering from stress (shipping, transplanting,
drought, insect damage, cold stress, etc.). Apply as needed.
For Sweeter, Bigger Fruit
Sunshine Honey - Fruit Sugar Booster: application on fruit trees will make
fruit bigger and sweeter by directing sugars to the fruit from other plant parts, and helps to prevent bud
drop. Apply 4 times a year: at bud setting, flowering, fruit setting, and
after harvesting.
For Better Resistance
Sunshine Power Si - Silicon Protector - enhances resistance to insects, diseases, drought, and frost, while boosting growth. Apply once a
month, along with Sunshine SuperFood.
Q: I recently bought both the 5ml of the sunshine epi and the 100 ml
advanced nutrition kit. I read on the paper for the Epi not to use any other strong fertilizers along with this but I was
wondering if it'd be alright to use both this foliar spray and nutrition
watering together?
A: All solutions in SUNSHINE Booster Nutrition System (NPK-macro and micro-boosters) are
compatible.
The only exception is Sunshine-Epi - brassinosteroid bio-stimulant. Epi
should be mixed with distilled water separately from other boosters. The
reason is, it is very bio-active, and if mixed with other compounds, oxidizes
quickly which may affect its performance.
Sunshine-Epi solution must be prepared using distilled water and
applied as foliar spray only (it only works on contact with leaves and not through
the root system). Epi shows extremely impressive results when you apply it
before the application of other nutrients because it increases plant
metabolism; so all boosters become even more effective if you spray Epi the day
before.
When using Micro- and Macro-boosters, you may mix all components in one watering can/tank
(except for Epi), using regular tap water. Besides watering root ball, the
macro-micro solution can be also used for foliar spray. It is optional, as in some
circumstances growers prefer to keep leaves dry at all times: to stay away
from mold, fungus and other issues caused by the wet environment.
Here is an example of Sunshine Boosters Nutrition System application:
1. Daily watering in one can: NPK 25 ml/gal (one of 5, depending on growth stage) + Constanta 5 ml/gal + Ca-Support 5 ml/gal, mixed in tap water
2. Every 2 weeks: spray Sunshine-Epi 2.5 ml/gal - to boost the immune system and growth rate,
mixed in distilled water
3. From daily to every 2 weeks: Sunshine-Power-Si 25 ml/gal to protect from diseases and keep pH at
5.5-6.5. Can be used as often as daily and mixed with a daily watering solution
(1)
4. As needed: Sunshine SuperFood and GreenLeaf - for correcting deficiencies. Can be also mixed with the
daily solution (1)
Make sure to prepare a solution right before use and do not store
solution for more than 1 day.
Keep concentrates and solutions protected from bright sunlight.
🍲 What Fertilizer to Use Now and How?
Part 2. Macro elements, or everyday plant food
Sunshine Booster for different types of plants can be applied as often as with every watering.
✔️ For Rapid Growth
Sunshine Robusta - Rapid Growth Booster: general fertilizer for both foliage plants and small starters that need an extra boost.
✔️ For Flowers
Sunshine Megaflor - Bloom Booster: boosts flowers on established plants; and Sunshine Pikake - Fragrant Plant Booster: best for fragrant flowers.
✔️ For Fruit Trees
Sunshine C-Cibus - Crop Booster: contains all necessary elements for fruit trees and their production. Sunshine Mango Tango - specifically formulated for Mango and Avocado trees, and Sunshine Citron - ideal for citrus trees.
✔️ For Tender Perennials
Sunshine Orchidasm - Orchid Total Feed and Sunshine Ananas - Pineapple and Bromeliad Booster: mild formulas for these tender perennials.
✔️ Microelement Supplements Are a Must
Besides macronutrients, plants need additional microelements, just like humans need vitamins. We will explain in details about micro-elements in our next post 🔽
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.
By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top
Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help
Macadamia
tree maturing into a productive, manageable canopy.
🌳 Growing Macadamia Tree
Macadamia is not a fragile tree, but it does have preferences. If you
respect them from the beginning, the tree rewards you for decades.
Start with the site. Drainage is everything. Macadamia will tolerate
cool weather better if planted in a well-drained area. Avoid low spots where
water sits after rain. If your soil is dense or clay-like, build a mound or
improve drainage before planting.
Choose full sun whenever possible for the best nut production.
Planting location matters. A south or southeast exposure near a wall can
create a warmer microclimate that buffers cold nights. Freeze plus wind is
more damaging than temperature alone. Macadamia handles cold better when
protected from winter wind.
Dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the
root ball. Set the tree level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the
trunk.
Water regularly during the first three months while the tree establishes
roots.
Fertilize lightly. Macadamia does not respond well to over-fertilizing.
Macadamias prefer mild liquid fertilizers, SUNSHINE
Boosters Robusta is ideal for it. You may also use controlled release Green
Magic every
6 months, it is especially formulated for hot climate. To keep leaves
healthy deep green without yellowing, micro elements must be applied on
regular basis, we recommend to always have handy Sunshine
Superfood micro nutrients complex.
Young trees should be protected if temperatures drop below freezing.
Once established, they become far more resilient.
Harvest timing: Nuts mature 6-7 months after flowering. Husk splits
naturally when ready. Fallen nuts should be collected quickly.
Flower and Nut Drop: Many gardeners panic when they see flowers or small
nuts drop, but Macadamia naturally sheds excess fruit. It does not mean
failure; the tree simply keeps what it
can afford to feed.
Macadamia is relatively low-maintenance, but watch for squirrels and rats.
They love the rich nuts as much as humans do, so be sure to collect fallen
nuts quickly.
Macadamia is not a fast-return crop. It begins producing a few years and
increases gradually. But once mature, it becomes a steady, reliable part of
your garden.
Macadamia fruit showing green outer husk and mature
brown shell inside.
🌱 Growing Macadamia in a Pot
Container size: Start large. A 15-25 gallon pot is ideal for long-term
growth.
Drainage: Critical. Use a container with multiple drainage holes.
Soil mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy
garden soil. Top
Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot
growing
Light: Full sun is best. Strong light improves flowering and nut
production.
Watering: Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before
watering again. Avoid constant saturation.
Macadamia nuts developing on the tree before the husk
splits.
🚫 Common Mistakes When Growing Macadamia
Planting in poorly drained soil:
The most common mistake. Macadamia will decline quickly in heavy,
waterlogged ground. If
drainage is questionable, plant on a mound.
Overwatering young trees:
Newly planted trees need consistent moisture, not constant saturation. Wet
roots lead to root problems.
Over-fertilizing:
Too much fertilizer causes weak growth and nutrient imbalance. Feed lightly
and avoid heavy nitrogen applications.
Planting too deep:
The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the
surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
Ignoring micronutrients:
Macadamia is very prone to iron, zinc, and copper deficiencies. Yellowing
leaves may signal a micronutrient issue. Applly Sunshine
Superfood on regular
basis.
Expecting instant production:
Macadamia takes time. Early years build structure. Patience is part of
success.
Skipping cold protection for young trees:
Established trees are tougher, but young plants should be protected below
freezing.
Macadamia tree in full bloom with abundant flower
clusters.
❓Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is Macadamia toxic to pets?
While the nuts are a superfood for humans, they are toxic to dogs. If
you have a dog that tends to forage in the garden, ensure you harvest
fallen nuts promptly or fence the base of the tree during the drop season.
Which varieties are best for the "Survivor" garden?
Look for Macadamia integrifolia (smooth-shell) or hybrids like
'Beaumont' (M.
tetraphylla x M. integrifolia). Hybrids often show slightly better cold
tolerance and more
consistent "home garden" production.
How tall will my tree get?
In the ground, an unpruned Macadamia can reach 20–30 feet. However,
they respond very well to "heading back" (pruning the top) to keep them at a
manageable 12–15 feet for easy harvesting.
Do I need two trees for cross-pollination?
Macadamias are self-fertile, meaning one tree will produce nuts. However,
planting two varieties near each other often results in a significantly
heavier "nut
set" due to cross-pollination.
Why are the leaves on my Macadamia prickly?
Don't panic—this is normal! Some species, particularly M.
tetraphylla, have serrated, holly-like leaves. This actually makes them
a great "defensive" hedge against intruders or deer.
When exactly should I harvest?
The tree tells you when it's ready. Don't shake the tree; wait for the nuts
to fall naturally. In Florida, this usually happens between August and
November. If the green outer husk hasn't split yet, let them sit in a
shaded, dry spot until they do.
My tree has "clusters" of flowers but no nuts. What happened?
Macadamias produce long racemes (flower spikes) with hundreds of tiny
blooms. It is normal for 90% of these to fall off. The tree only keeps what
it can afford to "feed." Boost your
success by using a combination of Sunshine
C-Cibus liquid
fertilizer and SUNSHINE
Superfood micro element supplement during the flowering stage to help
the tree retain more fruit.
Can I grow them from a nut I bought at the store?
Unlikely. Commercial nuts are usually roasted or dried at high heat, killing
the embryo. Even if a raw nut sprouts, it may take 10–12 years to
fruit and the quality is a gamble. Buying a grafted tree saves you a decade
of waiting.
We don’t just sell plants; we test them. The data from this
February freeze proves that with the right selection and proper drainage,
'tropical' doesn’t have to mean 'fragile.' Don’t wait for the
next cold front to find out what in your garden is
vulnerable. It is time to replace those empty spots with proven survivors
that offer both beauty and a premium harvest. If it can stand up to 25F in
our fields, it’s
ready for your backyard.
Coming in Part 2...
Smokey is already crunching the numbers on our next survivor, and Sunshine
found another tree that stayed perfectly green in the wind. Stay tuned to
see which fruit tree made the cut!
Macadamia
flowers forming long cascading racemes before nut set.