🔥 Blazing into the 2026 with hot jasmines

Sunshine: I'm blazing into the 2026 Year of the Horse! Call me Mister Fahrenheit. Don't stop me now! 'Cause I'm having a good time — I'm a shooting star, leaping through the sky like a tiger, defying the laws of gravity!
Smokey: It's jasmine, Tiger. A shrub. Not Wembley. Calm down.

💮 2026 Year of the Horse - and the Plant I Trust Most

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals

Every new year carries its own energy.

2026 is the Year of the Horse - a year of movement, fire, momentum, and bold decisions. It is not a quiet year. It pushes us forward.

When fellow gardeners ask me what to grow in a year like this, my answer is simple:
Grow something that balances strength with grace.

For me, that plant is Jasmine Sambac.

In many cultures, Sambac represents devotion, purity, and deep affection. In the Philippines it is the national flower - Sampaguita - woven into garlands for weddings and sacred ceremonies. In Hawaii, it becomes leis - a symbol of welcome and connection - Pikake. In India, it perfumes temples and homes.

This is not just a fragrant shrub.
It is a plant tied to love, loyalty, and continuity.

The Horse runs forward.
Jasmine anchors the heart.

In a fiery year like 2026, I believe we need both.

And that is why I always return to Jasminum sambac.

🛒 Explore Jasmine varieties

✅ Why Jasmine Sambac?

Over the years I have grown thousands of plants, but very few have the staying power of Jasmine Sambac.

It is not just fragrant. It is intensely, unmistakably fragrant. One open flower can perfume an entire patio. In the evening, the scent becomes deeper and richer.

But what makes Sambac truly special is its adaptability.

It can grow as a compact patio shrub, a flowering hedge, or a climbing vine. It performs beautifully in containers. It tolerates both full sun and partial shade. The more light you give it, the more flowers it rewards you with.

And unlike many tropicals, Sambac does not bloom just once. With proper care, it flowers in cycles throughout the warm season.

For gardeners, that combination is rare: beauty, perfume, flexibility, and repeat bloom.

That is why it has remained one of the most wanted fragrant plants in cultivation.

✍️ More About Jasmines from Blog

🛒 Explore Jasmine plants

Macadamia Tree Care

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

🌳 Growing Macadamia Tree

Macadamia is not a fragile tree, but it does have preferences. If you respect them from the beginning, the tree rewards you for decades.

• Start with the site. Drainage is everything. Macadamia will tolerate cool weather better if planted in a well-drained area. Avoid low spots where water sits after rain. If your soil is dense or clay-like, build a mound or improve drainage before planting.
• Choose full sun whenever possible for the best nut production.
• Planting location matters. A south or southeast exposure near a wall can create a warmer microclimate that buffers cold nights. Freeze plus wind is more damaging than temperature alone. Macadamia handles cold better when protected from winter wind.
• Dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root ball. Set the tree level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
• Water regularly during the first three months while the tree establishes roots.
• Fertilize lightly. Macadamia does not respond well to over-fertilizing. Macadamias prefer mild liquid fertilizers, SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta is ideal for it. You may also use controlled release Green Magic every 6 months, it is especially formulated for hot climate. To keep leaves healthy deep green without yellowing, micro elements must be applied on regular basis, we recommend to always have handy Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
• Young trees should be protected if temperatures drop below freezing. Once established, they become far more resilient.
• Harvest timing: Nuts mature 6-7 months after flowering. Husk splits naturally when ready. Fallen nuts should be collected quickly.
• Flower and Nut Drop: Many gardeners panic when they see flowers or small nuts drop, but Macadamia naturally sheds excess fruit. It does not mean failure; the tree simply keeps what it can afford to feed.
• Macadamia is relatively low-maintenance, but watch for squirrels and rats. They love the rich nuts as much as humans do, so be sure to collect fallen nuts quickly.
• Root Sensitivity: Macadamia roots dislike disturbance. Transplant carefully. Avoid root damage.
• Macadamia is not a fast-return crop. It begins producing a few years and increases gradually. But once mature, it becomes a steady, reliable part of your garden.

Learn more: Macadamia - Hard Sweet Nut and Hardy Tree

🌱 Growing Macadamia in a Pot

• Container size: Start large. A 15-25 gallon pot is ideal for long-term growth.
• Drainage: Critical. Use a container with multiple drainage holes.
• Soil mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot growing
• Light: Full sun is best. Strong light improves flowering and nut production.
• Watering: Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again. Avoid constant saturation.
• Feed lightly and consistenly. SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta liquid fertilizer is safe to use with with every watering. During hot season you may add controlled release Green Magic every 6 months. It is essential to apply micro elements on Macadamias: Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
• Cold protection: If temperatures drop below freezing, move the container to a protected area such as a garage or greenhouse.
• Pruning: Prune lightly to control size and maintain airflow within the canopy.
• Expectations: Container trees may produce fewer nuts than in-ground trees, but they offer mobility and climate control.
• Smokey says: Container trees offer mobility and climate control so you never have to worry about a freeze!

✍️ More About Macadamia from Garden Blog

🚫 Common Mistakes When Growing Macadamia

• Planting in poorly drained soil:
  The most common mistake. Macadamia will decline quickly in heavy, waterlogged ground. If drainage is questionable, plant on a mound.
• Overwatering young trees:
  Newly planted trees need consistent moisture, not constant saturation. Wet roots lead to root problems.
• Over-fertilizing:
  Too much fertilizer causes weak growth and nutrient imbalance. Feed lightly and avoid heavy nitrogen applications.
• Planting too deep:
  The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
• Ignoring micronutrients:
  Macadamia is very prone to iron, zinc, and copper deficiencies. Yellowing leaves may signal a micronutrient issue. Applly Sunshine Superfood on regular basis.
• Expecting instant production:
  Macadamia takes time. Early years build structure. Patience is part of success.
• Skipping cold protection for young trees:
  Established trees are tougher, but young plants should be protected below freezing.

❓Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Is Macadamia toxic to pets? While the nuts are a superfood for humans, they are toxic to dogs. If you have a dog that tends to forage in the garden, ensure you harvest fallen nuts promptly or fence the base of the tree during the drop season.
• Which varieties are best for the "Survivor" garden? Look for Macadamia integrifolia (smooth-shell) or hybrids like 'Beaumont' (M. tetraphylla x M. integrifolia). Hybrids often show slightly better cold tolerance and more consistent "home garden" production.
• How tall will my tree get? In the ground, an unpruned Macadamia can reach 20–30 feet. However, they respond very well to "heading back" (pruning the top) to keep them at a manageable 12–15 feet for easy harvesting.
• Do I need two trees for cross-pollination? Macadamias are self-fertile, meaning one tree will produce nuts. However, planting two varieties near each other often results in a significantly heavier "nut set" due to cross-pollination.
• Why are the leaves on my Macadamia prickly? Don't panic—this is normal! Some species, particularly M. tetraphylla, have serrated, holly-like leaves. This actually makes them a great "defensive" hedge against intruders or deer.
• When exactly should I harvest? The tree tells you when it's ready. Don't shake the tree; wait for the nuts to fall naturally. In Florida, this usually happens between August and November. If the green outer husk hasn't split yet, let them sit in a shaded, dry spot until they do.
• My tree has "clusters" of flowers but no nuts. What happened? Macadamias produce long racemes (flower spikes) with hundreds of tiny blooms. It is normal for 90% of these to fall off. The tree only keeps what it can afford to "feed." Boost your success by using a combination of Sunshine C-Cibus liquid fertilizer and SUNSHINE Superfood micro element supplement during the flowering stage to help the tree retain more fruit.
• Can I grow them from a nut I bought at the store? Unlikely. Commercial nuts are usually roasted or dried at high heat, killing the embryo. Even if a raw nut sprouts, it may take 10–12 years to fruit and the quality is a gamble. Buying a grafted tree saves you a decade of waiting.

We don’t just sell plants; we test them. The data from this February freeze proves that with the right selection and proper drainage, 'tropical' doesn’t have to mean 'fragile.' Don’t wait for the next cold front to find out what in your garden is vulnerable. It is time to replace those empty spots with proven survivors that offer both beauty and a premium harvest. If it can stand up to 25F in our fields, it’s ready for your backyard.

Coming in Part 2...

Smokey is already crunching the numbers on our next survivor, and Sunshine found another tree that stayed perfectly green in the wind. Stay tuned to see which fruit tree made the cut!

🎥 More Macadamia videos from our channel

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

Dragon Fruit Plant Care – Tips from the Garden Expert

Dragon fruit is one of those plants that look exotic but are surprisingly easy once you know the basics. Here is what works best in the garden:

• Soil: They hate wet feet. A sandy, fast-draining soilless-mix is your friend. If water sits around the roots, rot comes fast.
• Watering: Deep watering is better than frequent sips. Let the soil dry between waterings. In rainy season they cope well, but in pots you need to be careful.
• Sunlight: Full sun is great, but in very hot places a touch of afternoon shade keeps them happy.
• Support: They are natural climbers. A wooden post, concrete pole, or trellis will give them something to grab and makes harvest easier.
• Fertilizer: Feed lightly but often. A gentle liquid like Sunshine C-Cibus liquid booster with every watering, or Green Magic controlled release fertilizer every 5-6 months. It encourages strong roots, lush growth, and lots of flowers.
• Pruning: Trim off tangled or weak stems. This guides energy into strong branches that will flower and fruit.

Think of it as training a cactus vine into a small tree. Once it settles in, it almost takes care of itself — and pays back with fruit you can’t buy in stores.

🌱 Dragon Fruit Plant Care – Outdoors and Indoors

Outdoors: Dragon fruit thrives in USDA Zones 10–11 year-round. In warm regions like Florida, Texas, California, and Hawaii, you can grow it outside in the ground. Give it fast-draining soil, full sun with a little afternoon shade in the hottest months, and a sturdy trellis or post to climb. Deep watering with drying periods in between keeps roots healthy. A yearly pruning shapes the plant and boosts flowering.

Indoors or Patio Pots: Gardeners in cooler zones can still enjoy dragon fruit in containers. Use a large pot with sandy, well-draining mix or soilless-mix and a pole for support. Place the pot in the brightest spot — a greenhouse, sunroom, or patio that gets 6+ hours of light daily. Move pots inside when temperatures drop below 40F. Even indoors, a healthy plant can bloom and fruit if it has enough light and warmth.

❓ Dragon Fruit FAQ

How soon will a dragon fruit start producing?

Cuttings can flower and fruit in as little as 2–3 years. Seed-grown plants take longer, often 4–6 years. Large developed specimens can start flowering and fruiting within a year or even the same season.

Do I need more than one plant for pollination?

Some varieties are self-fertile, others need a second plant for cross-pollination. Even self-fertile types usually set more fruit with a partner nearby.

How big do they get?

In the ground, dragon fruit can climb 15–20 ft if you let it. With pruning and a trellis, you can keep it shaped like a small tree, 6–8 ft tall.

Can I grow it in a pot?

Yes. A large container with sandy mix or soilless-mix and a pole for climbing works well. Indoors it will need bright light or a grow lamp.

What does a dragon fruit taste like?

Sweet and juicy, like a blend of blackberry and raspberry. Varieties differ: flesh can be white, pink, deep red, or purple, wrapped in skins of red, pink, or yellow. White flesh is mild and refreshing, red flesh is sweeter, and yellow flesh is the sweetest with a honey-pineapple flavor.

What zones can I grow dragon fruit outside?

USDA Zones 10–11 are best for year-round outdoor planting. In cooler areas, grow it in containers and bring inside for winter.

How often should I water?

Deep water, then let the soil dry. Too much water causes root rot. Think “desert cactus with a taste for rain.”

Is dragon fruit easy to grow?

Yes. Pitayas grow like cactus trees on strong supports, but they are easy to care for — little water, sun or semi-shade, and they thrive.

How long do they live?

A healthy dragon fruit cactus can produce for 10 years or more with proper care.

What are the health benefits?

Dragon fruit is high in fiber, supports digestion, and is low in calories. It is rich in antioxidants and vitamin C, making it good for immunity and overall wellness. Many gardeners enjoy it as a healthy snack or in smoothies.

Explore Dragon Fruit varieties

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

How to keep bugs away naturally?

Q: I started moving my tropical plant collection indoors as it's getting colder... And all of a sudden, I noticed bugs on leaves! I know for sure all my plants were bug-free when I kept the pots outside in my lanai. What happened? And how can I keep them clean and healthy without using any harsh chemicals? I have many edibles and herbs that I use in my cooking and prefer to stay away from insecticides. Any suggestions?

A: It is very common when healthy looking plants, once moved indoors for the winter, get insect infestations. The main reason is change of environment that puts a plant into stress and makes it susceptible to parasites and diseases. Just think about what a plant is missing, a whole combination of necessary conditions that provided a good life:
- Bring light -> light level reduced, so beneficial UV spectrum is gone
- Air circulation -> less wind = more bugs thriving
- Warm temperature -> from upper 80's in summer to 70's in your AC room
- Air humidity -> although humid air is believed to be causing some issues (for example fungus), however, reducing humidity overall puts a plant into stress and makes it more vulnerable.

Many gardener prefer to avoid chemicals, especially when it comes to treating edible plants and indoor collections. The solution to your problems is - Organic Solution!

SUNSHINE NoBug - Natural Plant Protector.
Shampoo for Plants - for both indoors and garden

SUNSHINE NoBug - is a natural solution to keep your plants healthy and bug-free without harsh chemicals. It is great for organic gardening and edibles, eco-safe and non-toxic for humans and pets. It kills, repels and prevents: spider-mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, aphids and many more. No wait time required - spray and play! And it smells like jasmine, forget stinky insecticides!
How does it work? Just look at these ingredients: Kosher Glycerine, Organic Coconut Oil, Organic Palm Oil, Oat Protein, Organic Soap, Horticultural Oil, Jasmine Oil, Water. Yum! But bugs hate it - they suffocate in it! This is why your plants will have NO BUGS with NoBug, that's it!

Directions are simple:

- Mix 100 ml (3-4 oz) with 1 qt (32 oz) of water, or 500 ml (16 oz) in 1 gal of water - for larger applications
- Spray foliage to drip point, including underneath leaves.
- Repeat the treatment in 7 days.
- As a preventive care, spray leaves once a month to keep insects away.
- You may use a paper towel saturated with this solution to wipe the leaves and remove residue from insects.
- Store at room temperature.

This poor Pepper plant was tossed into garbage can by a neighbor... it looked hopeless, infested with mealybugs. We saved it with NoBug ! In 2 days it perked up, and after 4 weeks its healthy and fruiting!