The most rewarding hardy fruit trees

Q: Recently I started working remotely and I kinda like it, no need to commute, it saves me so much time so I can have life now! My friend got me involved into growing some small houseplants but I really want to take advantage of our Florida climate and sun. I want to plant some cool fruit trees since I have a decent size yard. But I live in Florida Panhandle and we do have some occasional freeze in winter, although not for too long. But it gets very hot in summer! Are there any tropical fruit trees that will be happy here? Or should I keep everything in pots? I am excited to have my own tropical plant collection!

A: There is a perfect plant for everyone, and a perfect tree for every climate. Many tropical and especially subtropical plants can be much hardier than they are believed to be, both flowering and fruiting trees among them. You may keep the most sensitive species in pots and bring them inside for winter, while there are so many trees that will be happy in your area. Start with these that are perfect for climates with hot summers and cool winters:

1. Peaches and Plums

Low-chill, Heat-tolerant Peaches, Nectarines, Plums are especially selected for Florida hot summers. They produce well and do not require many "chill" hours like temperate fruit trees. They only need 150 chill hours and grow well in even in Arizona, so you know they are taking the heat.

2. Figs

2) Fig trees - they are easy to grow, heat- and drought- resistant trees. They are prized for their delicious fruit, which can be one to three inches in length, violet, brown or black. There are even varieties with yellow fruit. Most fruits are borne from early summer to late fall on new growth, and the fruits generally mature very quickly. These trees are sensitive to frost only when actively growing, but can withstand 10F when dormant. Read more about Fig trees.

🌸 How to Grow Adeniums Without Overthinking It

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

✅ Simple rules that actually make them bloom and grow well

• Light - The more light, the better the growth and flowering. Full sun is ideal, but in very hot climates, filtered bright light keeps plants looking healthier.
• Water - Water well, then let soil dry on the surface. Sitting in wet soil damages roots, but letting plants dry out too often can push them into early dormancy.
• Pot and shaping - Use a shallow pot with excellent drainage. To develop a sculptural caudex, lift the plant slightly each time you repot and remove some of the top soil so upper roots become exposed. Over time, this creates a thicker, more prominent base.
• Soil - Use a fast-draining Adenium potting Mix.



Healthy adeniums start with the right foundation - a fast-draining soil mix and careful watering only when dry to avoid caudex rot.


• Cold hardiness - Adeniums are tropical and do not tolerate frost. Keep above 40 F. Brief drops to mid 30s may be tolerated if dry, but cold and wet conditions can damage or kill the plant. In cooler climates, bring indoors or protect during cold nights.
• Indoor winter care - Move plants indoors before cold nights. Place in the brightest spot possible, ideally a south-facing window. Or use additional lighting. Water very lightly and less often, as growth slows. Do not fertilize during dormancy. Some leaf drop is normal in winter.



Freshly grafted adeniums in dormancy - a crucial resting phase. Keep watering low (once a month) and avoid overcare; this is the time to let them rest and etablish.


• Feeding - Adeniums respond best to liquid fertilizer. We apply Sunshine Megaflor Booster with each watering throughout the year. During dormancy, watering is reduced, so fertilizer use decreases accordingly. Consistent, light feeding promotes strong roots, a thicker caudex, and improved flowering.
• Pruning - For multiple blooms, regular pruning is essential. After flowering, cut back long or leggy growth to stimulate branching. Each new branch can produce more buds, leading to a much fuller bloom in the next cycle.

✍️ Learn more about Adeniums from our Blog

🎥 Watch videos of Adenium Rainbow

🛒 Explore Exotic Adenium varieties

7 reasons to get an Aroid Houseplant

1. It's almost Winter... You need something tropical in your home! Aroids have the most tropical look!
2. Aroids tolerate low light conditions of indoors.
3. Aroids require almost no care. Care is easy because if you watch for the signals, the plant will tell you exactly what it needs
4. Aroids adapt to wide range of conditions. Many of them thrive in neglect and survive even in sub-optimal conditions... Unlike most tropicals, Aroids don't experience much stress when moving from indoor to outdoor settings and adapt readily to conditions inside the home.
5. Aroids are compact and easy to manage.
6. Aroids are fast growing while still being compact.
7. They are on sale now!

Check out our Philodendrons, Monsteras, Fancy Syngoniums, Alocasias, Colocasias.

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

Dragon Fruit Magic Tricks

Q: I purchased two sweet red pitayas, that arrived and were planted on May 28, 2020, they were damaged but not serious. my question is this one pitaya is a beautiful green, and has grown 6or 8 "already, the other is bigger and is a grayish green and has not shown any sign of growth at all in six weeks, how long do I wait before I throw it out and buy another?

A: Being a cactus, sometimes Pitaya slows down its growth waiting for more favorable conditions. If one of your plants doesn't show any new growth, just give a it some more time and make sure the plant stays happy. To make pitaya happy, provide the following:
- Water. Unlike most cacti, Pitaya prefers regular watering (but not a wet soil). Make sure it is planted in well-drained media. Do not water again if soil remains moist, wait until it dries out on the surface. During hot weather, Pitaya enjoys light daily watering.
- Light. Unlike most cacti, Pitaya benefits from a filtered light especially while establishing. Try to create a temporary shade over the plant until it starts active growth (if grown in the ground), or move the pot in filtered light. Dull color or dry spots are signs of sun burn. Once the plant shows new growth, you may remove sun protection, or move the pot gradually into the full sun.
- Food. Pitayas are heavy feeders. Use the following fertilizer:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster

Q: I've been growing dragon fruit cuttings from Okinawa, Thailand and Vietnam for several years in pots and cannot get them to fruit. Any fertilizer suggestions? I live in Northern Virginia so I bring the massive pots in the garage under lights and a heater for the winter but back outside once the temperature warms up.

A: There is a little trick to get Dragon fruit to flowering and fruiting. This plant likes flowering when it is attached to a strong support. In commercial plantations, they use special trellises/frames made out of logs, but you can make one yourself using simple materials.
See article: Do-It-Yourself Support Structure for Dragon Fruit.
And of course, don't forget a special plant food for tropical fruit - Sunshine C-Cibus.
You can successfully get your Dragon fruits to fruit in pots, providing bright light in Summer. In Winter, keep the plants on a dry side to give them some rest and a chance to hibernate before the next fruiting season.

Establishing Mamey Sapote

Q: I purchased Mamey sapote last fall and am very excited about having it in my yard. It lost leaves during the winter, but then budded and put on a lot of beautiful leaves. I was hand watering since this covid stay at home event, and thought I'd put it in a larger container, 10 gallon. About 2 months after transplant and hand watering the leaves turned yellow. I cut back on watering, allowing some dryness between. Some leaves now have fallen off, but looks like new ones forming. What have I done and most importantly now, what do I need to do so she survives? I haven't yet decided exactly where to plant her... so hoping she can stay in container for a bit longer while recovering.

A: It is possibly a combination of over-watering and seasonal changes (re-leaf). During this time of the year, Pouteria sapote loses old leaves and grows new ones. This plant is semi-deciduous, which means, it drops leaves during unfavorable conditions (too dry, too wet, too cold, to hot, etc. = any stress). The new buds are healthy. Give it a couple of weeks. Reduce watering. Don't water again if the soil is still moist. If planted in the ground, it will be easier to control the moisture, as long as you plant it high enough (at least 3-4"above the surrounding area, like on a little hill, for a better drainage. See how to plant a tree.
Once you notice a new growth and healthy leaves, give the plant some food:
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster
Mango-Food - Smart Release Fruit Tree Booster