Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 15 Dec 2025

🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide. Part 3. Watering and Humidity. ❄️


💦 Water, Humidity, and the Small Things That Decide Who Makes It to Spring

Smokey  the  tuxedo  cat  checks  soil  moisture  and  wipes  a  monstera  leaf 
 while  Sunshine  the  ginger  cat  relaxes  with  a  watering  can  beside  indoor 
 tropical  plants  in  winter.

Smokey:"Still damp. No watering today."
Sunshine:"Great. I am excellent at not watering."
Smokey:"You have been practicing not doing any work your whole life."

In Part 1 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) we covered the foundation: light, placement, and acclimation. That is the survival layer.

Part 2 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) is about what quietly ruins plants indoors in winter. Not overnight. Slowly.

Most winter losses come from good intentions and habits that worked fine outdoors or in summer, but fail indoors when growth slows.

Watering: Where Most Indoor Plants Die in Winter

If there is one winter skill that matters more than anything else, it is knowing when not to water.

In winter, light is weaker, temperatures are lower, roots stay cold longer, and growth slows or stops. Plants simply do not drink the way they do in summer.

How winter watering actually works

Do not water on a schedule. Winter does not care about your calendar.

Instead:

  • Water thoroughly when you do water.
  • Let excess drain out.
  • Then wait longer than feels comfortable.

Before watering, test the soil with your finger. Water only when the top inch or so is dry.

If the soil below still feels cool and damp, do nothing. That is the hardest skill to learn.

Remember what we covered in Part 1: in winter, soil and roots stay cold much longer. Cold roots absorb water very slowly. Wet, cold soil is not helpful moisture. It is stress.

Waiting is often the correct move.

Common winter watering traps

  • The soil surface looks dry, but the root ball is still wet.
  • Pots near windows dry unevenly.
  • Large pots stay wet for weeks.

Always check below the surface. If the pot feels cold and heavy, roots are not asking for water yet.

Signs you are watering too much

  • Soil stays wet for many days.
  • Pot feels heavy long after watering.
  • Leaves yellow and soften.
  • Fungus gnats appear.

As a rough guideline, most indoor tropicals need 25 to 50 percent less water than summer, sometimes even less in low light.

Always use room temperature water. Cold water shocks roots and slows recovery.

Humidity: Invisible Winter Stress

Winter indoor air is dry. Often far drier than people realize.

Heating systems pull moisture out of the air, and many homes sit at 20 to 30 percent humidity all winter. Most tropical plants prefer something closer to 50 to 60 percent.

Low humidity rarely kills plants outright. It weakens them first. That is why pests show up more often in winter. The plant is already stressed before insects arrive.

What low humidity looks like

  • Brown or crispy leaf edges.
  • Curling leaves.
  • New leaves stuck while unfolding.
  • Spider mites appearing suddenly.

What actually helps

  • Group plants together.
  • Use pebble trays.
  • Run a room humidifier.
  • Use bathrooms if light allows.

Humidity works best when plants are grouped. One isolated plant in dry air struggles far more than a group sharing moisture.

Misting leaves feels helpful, but it only raises humidity for minutes. It does not fix dry air.

Cleaning Leaves: More Important Than It Sounds

Winter light is already weak. Dust makes it worse.

Dusty leaves block light, clog stomata, and create hiding places for pests.

Wiping leaves is one of the simplest winter care steps, and one of the most ignored.

How to clean

  • Soft cloth.
  • Plain water.
  • Mild soap if needed.

Gently wipe. No scrubbing. Every few weeks is enough.

Plants with fuzzy leaves, like African violets, should only be brushed gently with a dry brush.

Clean leaves also make problems easier to see. You will spot mites, scale, or damage early instead of discovering it weeks later.

Winter is not the season to be surprised.

Soil and Pots Behave Differently Indoors

Soil that works outdoors often behaves badly indoors. No wind, lower evaporation, and cooler roots mean the same soil stays wet far longer than expected.

In winter, roots care more about oxygen than water. Soil that stays wet pushes oxygen out, even if the plant looks fine above the soil line.

This is why rot often appears suddenly in late winter, not right after watering mistakes.

Pot size matters

Large pots dry slowly. Slow drying plus cool soil equals rot.

If a plant is barely growing, a very large pot is not doing it any favors.

About repotting

Winter is not the time to repot unless you must.

Only repot if:

  • Roots are rotting.
  • Pests are severe.
  • The plant is clearly failing.

Repotting in winter slows recovery and often makes things worse.

Airflow: Quietly Important

Indoor winter air is still. Still air leads to mold, fungus, and spider mites.

Airflow is not about cooling plants. It is about breaking stagnant air layers that pests and fungus love.

A small fan on low, not blowing directly on plants, makes a big difference. Even gentle movement helps more than people expect.

Drainage and Mold: Boring but Critical

Never let pots sit in water.

Standing water causes root rot, fungus gnats, and mold smell. Always empty trays after watering.

Raise pots slightly so air can move underneath. It helps more than people expect.

If you smell sour soil or a musty odor, something is staying wet too long. That smell is an early warning, not a minor issue.

Fertilizer: Mostly Stop

This is where a lot of winter damage happens.

If a plant is not actively growing, fertilizer does not help. It hurts.

In winter, most indoor tropicals are in maintenance mode, not growth mode. Feeding during this time leads to salt buildup, root burn, and weak, floppy growth.

Green leaves do not mean the plant is growing. They often just mean the plant has not given up yet.

Growth shows up as new leaves, longer stems, or expanding roots. No growth means no feeding.

When light feeding is acceptable

Only if all of these are true:

  • The plant is warm.
  • Light is strong.
  • You see real new growth.

Even then, feed lightly and less often than summer.

Spring will come. You do not need to force it.

Common Winter Care Mistakes

  • Watering on a schedule.
  • Misting instead of humidifying.
  • Fertilizing to fix poor light.
  • Ignoring cold windowsills.
  • Placing pots on cold tile or stone.
  • Repotting out of boredom.
  • Letting trays stay wet.
  • Assuming green leaves mean growth.
  • Assuming winter leaf drop always means death.

Quick Winter FAQ

My soil stays wet forever.
Too little light, too cold, or pot too large. Water less.

Leaves are crispy but soil is wet.
Low humidity combined with overwatering.

Should I mist every day?
No. Fix the air, not the leaves.

Can I fertilize just a little?
Only if the plant is clearly growing.

Why do I suddenly have fungus gnats?
Wet soil indoors is the invitation.

My plant looks fine but has not grown in months. Is that bad?
No. Stability is success in winter.

Date: 29 Jun 2026

😾 When Orange Isn't a Good Thing

Smokey,  a  tuxedo  cat  dressed  as  a  rust  detective,  examines  a  plumeria 
 leaf  with  a  magnifying  glass  while  Sunshine,  a  relaxed  orange  tabby,  lounges
    with  a  coffee  mug  inside  a  greenhouse  filled  with  healthy  blooming 
 plumerias.  Outside  the  greenhouse,  rain  falls  on  rust-infected  plumeria 
 leaves,  illustrating  how  wet  foliage  promotes  plumeria 
 rust.
Smokey: Those orange spots are plumeria rust.
Sunshine: Orange is an excellent color.
Smokey: On cats, yes. On plumeria leaves, no.
Sunshine: I represent the good kind of orange.

🌸 Plumeria Rust in Humid Climates:
What Finally Worked for Us

By Tatiana Anderson, Plant Expert, Top Tropicals

Side-by-side  photos  of  healthy  plumeria  plants  with  lush  green  foliage 
 and  no  signs  of  rust,  growing  in  pots  inside  a  greenhouse  and  outdoors  at  a 
 tropical 
 nursery.

Healthy plumerias with clean, vibrant foliage after successful rust management. Good airflow, bright conditions, and effective fungicide treatment help keep plants growing strong through Florida's rainy season.

If you grow plumerias in Florida, you probably know what comes next. Around June, when the rainy season begins and afternoon thunderstorms become part of the daily routine, orange-yellow spots start appearing on the undersides of plumeria leaves. Plumeria rust arrives almost like clockwork. If you have ever tried to fight it, you know how frustrating that battle can be.

Close-up  of  the  underside  of  a  plumeria  leaf  covered  with  bright  orange
    plumeria  rust  spores  during  rainy  weather,  with  a  lush  tropical  garden 
 blurred  in  the 
 background.

Plumeria rust appears as bright orange powdery spores on the underside of leaves. Warm, humid, rainy conditions allow the fungus to spread quickly, making it a common sight in tropical and subtropical gardens.

Let me be clear about something right away: Plumeria rust is rarely fatal to an otherwise healthy plant.

In our experience, we have never lost a healthy plumeria to rust alone. The disease is mostly cosmetic, but it causes significant yellowing, triggers premature leaf drop, and can turn a beautiful specimen into something that looks ragged throughout the best months of the growing season. For a plant grown as much for its attractive foliage as its spectacular flowers, that matters.

At Top Tropicals, we have grown plumerias for many years and have tried most of the approaches gardeners typically recommend: sulfur-based fungicides, neem oil, copper sprays, improving drainage, and removing infected leaves before they hit the ground. Some of those things helped to varying degrees. None of them felt like a real breakthrough until recently.

The Fungicide That Actually Did Something

Comparison  image  showing  healthy  plumeria  leaves  after  treatment  with 
 Southern  Ag  Garden  Friendly  Fungicide,  alongside  an  inset  photo  of  a  leaf 
 covered  with  orange  plumeria  rust  spores  before  treatment.

Real-world results after treating plumeria rust with Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide. The inset shows a leaf heavily infected with orange rust spores before treatment, while the main image shows clean, healthy new foliage after the fungus was brought under control.

A few seasons ago, on the recommendation of another grower, we tried Southern Ag Garden Friendly Fungicide . This biological fungicide contains the beneficial bacterium Bacillus sp, and I want to be careful here: I am not suggesting it is the best product for everyone or that it will produce the same results in every situation. What I can say is that, in our experience, it was the first fungicide that consistently produced visible improvement when applied according to the label directions.

We applied it at the first sign of rust, repeated applications according to the label, and actually saw the progression slow down while new infections became less severe. Whether that was the product, the timing, or some combination of factors, I cannot say with certainty. But after cycling through several options over the years, it was the one that felt like it was doing something real. If you are looking for a starting point, it is worth trying.

But the fungicide wasn't our main discovery. That came this past season, and it changed how we think about this disease.

☔️ What This Season Taught Us About Leaf Wetness

Healthy  plumeria  plants  with  lush,  dry  green  leaves  growing  inside  a 
 greenhouse.  The  foliage  is  clean  and  free  of  rust,  showing  vigorous  new 
 growth  under  bright  filtered  light.

Healthy, dry plumeria foliage is one of the best defenses against plumeria rust. Good airflow, bright light, and keeping leaves dry whenever possible help prevent the fungus from taking hold during the rainy season.

This season we moved our prized container plumerias under a covered growing area with a clear plastic roof and approximately 30 percent shade cloth overhead. The structure provides excellent light, warm temperatures, and very good air circulation while protecting the plants from Florida's frequent summer rains. It is not a climate-controlled greenhouse, but rather a protected outdoor growing area.

Here is the important part: these plants were still irrigated regularly, every two to four days, with overhead watering. The leaves did get wet. But because they were not sitting outside during Florida's daily summer downpours, the foliage dried within a reasonable amount of time instead of remaining wet for hours, which is common after a heavy rain followed by cloudy skies and still air.

The result? Not a single case of rust developed on those plants throughout the season. Considering how consistently plumeria rust appears each summer in our nursery, that result immediately caught our attention. The most significant difference was how long the foliage remained wet after watering or rain. Meanwhile, plumerias growing in the ground nearby, fully exposed to the weather, showed rust infection at the usual time.

💦 Ambient Humidity vs. Standing Water

That observation made us rethink what we believed was driving the disease. We had always assumed Florida's high humidity was the primary factor. Humidity certainly plays a role. But this experience suggested that prolonged leaf wetness may be a much more significant factor than ambient humidity by itself.

There is a real difference between air that feels humid and leaves that stay wet for four, six, or eight hours after a rain. Humid air means the moisture content of the atmosphere is high. Wet leaves means there is standing water on the leaf surface. Both conditions can occur together, but they are not the same thing. A leaf in a humid but breezy location can dry within an hour. A leaf in still, wet conditions after a heavy rain may stay wet most of the day. That difference may be far more important than many gardeners realize.

We are not plant pathologists, and we do not want to overstate what we learned from one growing season. But after many years of growing plumerias in Florida, the results were convincing enough that we now protect our best container specimens from prolonged summer rainfall whenever possible.

👉 What We Recommend

Based on many years of growing plumerias in Florida, here are the practices that have worked best for us:

  • Grow plumerias in full sun whenever conditions allow. Good light means faster drying after rain or irrigation, and plants grown in low light often seem to show rust symptoms more readily.
  • Keep your plumerias well-fed. Healthy, vigorously growing plants recover from stress and disease much better than weak ones. We apply Green Magic controlled-release fertilizer every six months for a steady supply of nutrients, and supplement with Sunshine Boosters Megaflor during the growing season. Because Megaflor is gentle, it can be safely applied with every watering, all year long.
  • During extended rainy periods, consider moving valuable container plants under cover if possible. Even a covered patio can make a difference if it keeps the leaves from remaining wet for most of the day.
  • Provide air circulation. Plants crowded together stay wet longer. Space them properly and position them where they receive good airflow.
  • Remove infected fallen leaves. They can continue serving as a source of spores. Pick them up and dispose of them rather than leaving them beneath the plants.
  • If rust begins to appear, start fungicide applications early. Slowing an infection at the beginning is much easier than trying to control one that is already well established.

💡 A Realistic Conclusion

Five  healthy  potted  plumeria  varieties  displaying  white,  pink,  yellow, 
 magenta,  and  multicolored  blooms,  arranged  in  a  row  with  lush  green  foliage 
 and  clean,  rust-free 
 leaves.

A parade of healthy plumerias in full color. Clean foliage, bright blooms, and vigorous growth show what plumerias can look like when rust is kept under control, letting each variety shine in its own unique colors.

Plumeria rust is mostly a cosmetic problem rather than a life-threatening one. Healthy plants usually recover well, but yellowing foliage and premature leaf drop can take much of the beauty out of an otherwise beautiful blooming season.

We cannot promise these methods will eliminate rust in every garden. Every growing environment is different. However, after years of battling this disease, reducing how long the leaves remain wet made a bigger difference than any other single change we have tried. If you grow plumerias in a humid climate and continue struggling with rust, it may be worth focusing not only on humidity itself, but also on how quickly the foliage dries after the rain stops.

📚 Plumerias in Top Tropicals Garden Blog

👉 Start your Plumeria collection

Plumeria Special
Buy 2 or More Plumerias, Save 25%
Mix and match your favorite varieties! Purchase 2 or more plumerias and receive 25% off all plumerias in your order. No coupon code required. Discount is applied automatically when qualifying items are added to your cart.
Valid through July 3, 2026
Offer applies to new orders only. Not valid on previous purchases, pending orders, gift certificates, shipping charges, or combined with other discounts or promotional offers.

Collage  of  sixteen  plumeria  varieties  showcasing  an  extraordinary  range
    of  flower  colors,  including  white,  yellow,  pink,  red,  orange,  multicolored,
    and  variegated  foliage,  highlighting  the  remarkable  diversity  of  plumeria 
 blooms.

Plumerias come in an amazing spectrum of colors and forms. From pure white and buttery yellow to fiery reds, soft pinks, rainbow blends, and even variegated foliage, there is a plumeria to match every tropical garden and collector's taste.

Sunshine: Healthy plumerias need sunshine... that's me... good airflow, and dry leaves.
Smokey: That's a surprisingly accurate summary.
Sunshine:We can help with all of that. Donut worry. Coffee first.

Date: 26 Mar 2026

🌸 How to Grow Adeniums Without Overthinking It

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

Adenium  desert  roses  blooming  in  greenhouse  during  winter  freeze,  rows 
 of  potted  plants  with  colorful 
 flowers

Adenium Plant Facts

Botanical name: Adenium sp.
Also known as: Adenium, Desert Rose, Impala Lily
USDA Zone: 9 - 10
Highligths Plant with caudexLarge shrub 5-10 ft tallSmall tree 10-20 ftFull sunWater Requirement: Low. Allow soil to dry out between wateringsWatering: Moderate. Water when top soil feels dryYellow, orange flowersRed, crimson, vinous flowersUnusual colorBlue, lavender, purple flowersWhite, off-white flowersPink flowersToxic or Poisonous
Get personalized tips for your region
Adeniums blooming inside the Top Tropicals greenhouse during the record freeze of February 2026 - protected from the cold, kept above 40F, and fed with liquid Sunshine Megaflor. They responded with a spectacular, synchronized winter bloom. Quite a surprize!

✅ Simple rules that actually make them bloom and grow well

  • Light - The more light, the better the growth and flowering. Full sun is ideal, but in very hot climates, filtered bright light keeps plants looking healthier.
  • Water - Water well, then let soil dry on the surface. Sitting in wet soil damages roots, but letting plants dry out too often can push them into early dormancy.
  • Pot and shaping - Use a shallow pot with excellent drainage. To develop a sculptural caudex, lift the plant slightly each time you repot and remove some of the top soil so upper roots become exposed. Over time, this creates a thicker, more prominent base.
  • Soil - Use a fast-draining Adenium potting Mix.
  • Adenium desert rose plant, fast draining soil mix in hand, and bonsai 
style adeniums blooming indoors

    Healthy adeniums start with the right foundation - a fast-draining soil mix and careful watering only when dry to avoid caudex rot.

  • Cold hardiness - Adeniums are tropical and do not tolerate frost. Keep above 40 F. Brief drops to mid 30s may be tolerated if dry, but cold and wet conditions can damage or kill the plant. In cooler climates, bring indoors or protect during cold nights.
  • Indoor winter care - Move plants indoors before cold nights. Place in the brightest spot possible, ideally a south-facing window. Or use additional lighting. Water very lightly and less often, as growth slows. Do not fertilize during dormancy. Some leaf drop is normal in winter.
  • Freshly grafted Adenium desert rose plants in dormancy arranged in 
greenhouse rows with bare branches

    Freshly grafted adeniums in dormancy - a crucial resting phase. Keep watering low (once a month) and avoid overcare; this is the time to let them rest and etablish.

  • Feeding - Adeniums respond best to liquid fertilizer. We apply Sunshine Megaflor Booster with each watering throughout the year. During dormancy, watering is reduced, so fertilizer use decreases accordingly. Consistent, light feeding promotes strong roots, a thicker caudex, and improved flowering.
  • Pruning - For multiple blooms, regular pruning is essential. After flowering, cut back long or leggy growth to stimulate branching. Each new branch can produce more buds, leading to a much fuller bloom in the next cycle.

Pruned  and  unpruned  Adenium  desert  rose  plants  showing  difference  in 
 branching  and  flowering

Pruned vs. unpruned - the difference is clear. The four plants on the left were trimmed 6 months ago, while the two on the right were not. Same species, very different results.

✍️ Learn more about Adeniums from our Blog

🎥 Watch videos of Adenium Rainbow

Free Shipping on Adeniums
Add bold color and unique forms to your collection with no extra shipping cost.

🛒 Explore Exotic Adenium varieties

Leggy  Adenium  desert  rose  plants  with  sparse  branching  and  flowers, 
 ready  for 
 pruning

These Adeniums are screaming for pruning so they can bush out and produce more blooms

Date: 1 Feb 2026

Valentines plants from around the world that symbolize love, connection, and appreciation

Valentines plants that symbolize love: Plumeria, Orchids, Gardenias, Heliconia, Stephanotis, Sweetheart Hoya, Cacao, Figs, Pomegranate

Valentines plants that symbolize love: Plumeria, Orchids, Gardenias, Heliconia, Stephanotis, Sweetheart Hoya, Cacao, Figs, Pomegranate

💕 Valentine’s plants from around the world that symbolize love, connection, and appreciation



💘 When we think of Valentine’s plants, roses usually steal the spotlight. But in many parts of the world, love has long been expressed through tropical plants - not only through flowers, but also through scent, ritual, shared food, and sensory experience.

💘 Across cultures, tropical plants have symbolized romance, friendship, devotion, fertility, desire, and emotional connection. Some speak through heart-shaped leaves and fragrant blooms. Others through taste, warmth, and the way they bring people together.

💘 Love beyond flowers? Together, these tropical plants show that love is expressed in many ways - through beauty, scent, taste, ritual, warmth, and shared moments. Valentine’s traditions around the world remind us that love is not only something we see, but something we experience with all our senses.

💘 In our upcoming collection we will explore Valentine’s plants from the tropics, grouped by how they express love:

💖 1. Plants of romance, affection, and emotional connection
💖 2. Plants of friendship, appreciation, and shared connection
💖 3. Plants of love, desire, and the senses

👉 Stay tuned, coming up next:
Plants of romance, affection, and emotional connection

🛒 Explore gift plants
🎁 Get a Gift Card

📚 Learn more:


Valentines day Best Gift Plant Ideas
Eight favorite plants of romance, affection, and emotional connection
Four popular plants of friendship, appreciation, and shared connection
Top nine plants of love, desire, and the senses: aphrodisiacs and sensory connections

#Shade_Garden #Container_Garden

🟢 Join 👉 TopTropicals

Date: 15 Jan 2026

When the Black Bat Lily decides to bloom

Blooming  Black  Bat  Lily  (Tacca  chantrieri)  with  dark  bat-shaped  flower 
 and  long  whisker-like  filaments  surrounded  by  green  leaves

Every so often a plant blooms and the whole greenhouse seems to slow down.

That is what happened this week with the Black Bat Lily, Tacca chantrieri. We have grown Taccas for years, but when the black ones open properly, it still feels special. The flowers are dark and quiet, almost unreal up close. They do not shout for attention. They make you lean in.

Bat Head Lily Plant Facts

Botanical name: Tacca chantrieri
Also known as: Bat Head Lily, Bat Flower, Devil Flower, Black Tacca
USDA Zone: 9 - 11
Highligths Small plant 2-5 ftShadeWatering: Regular. Let topsoil dry slightlyOrnamental foliageUnusual color
Get personalized tips for your region

Right now, we have a lot of them blooming at the same time. If you have never seen one in person, photos only get you part of the way there. The wings are darker than you expect, and the whiskers seem to go on forever. People walk into the greenhouse, stop, stare, and usually ask the same question: "Is that real?" - Yes. It is.

Group  of  blooming  Black  Bat  Lily  plants  (Tacca  chantrieri)  with  dark 
 bat-shaped  flowers  and  long  whisker-like  filaments  in  a  greenhouse

A quick honest note, because this matters. The blooms themselves are delicate and may not travel well. That is just the nature of this plant. The plants, however, are strong, well established. With the right conditions, they bloom again. This is not a one-time trick.

Black Tacca is not a beginner houseplant, but it is also not impossible. It likes filtered light, steady warmth, and humidity. It does especially well in a greenhouse or a bright indoor spot where you already keep plants that enjoy moisture. It is the kind of plant you keep close, not one you forget in the corner.

We are offering them now simply because they are ready and looking their best. If you have been waiting for one, this is a good moment.

You can see the Black Bat Lily here: https://toptropicals.com/store/item/2345.htm

Just wanted to share something we are enjoying in the greenhouse right now. Some plants come and go. Some stay with you.

Tacca (Bat Lily) FAQ

What is Tacca?

Tacca, also known as Bat Lily or Devil Flower, is a tropical plant grown for its unusual bat-shaped flowers with long whisker-like filaments. The most popular species is Tacca chantrieri, the Black Bat Lily.

Is Tacca hard to grow?

Tacca is not a beginner plant, but it is not impossible. It does best with warmth, humidity, and filtered light. Gardeners who already grow orchids, calatheas, or other humidity-loving plants usually do well with Tacca.

Does Tacca need a greenhouse?

A greenhouse is ideal, but not required. Tacca can be grown indoors in a bright spot with indirect light and good humidity, such as near a humidifier or in a bright bathroom with a window or skylight.

Will my Tacca arrive in bloom?

Plants may be blooming in the greenhouse, but flowers are often removed before shipping because they are delicate and do not travel well. The plants are well established and capable of blooming again with proper care.

How often does Tacca bloom?

Tacca does not bloom constantly. It may take time to establish before flowering, but once settled, it can bloom seasonally and may produce multiple flowers in warm, humid conditions.

Does Tacca grow from a bulb?

Tacca grows from a rhizome, not a bulb. The rhizome stores energy and allows the plant to regrow and bloom again.

Why does Tacca have long whiskers?

The long filaments are thought to help attract pollinators such as flies by mimicking the look of decaying organic matter. While unusual, this is part of the plant's natural pollination strategy.

✍️ More about growing Tacca
🛒 Get your own Tacca plant
🎥Watch our videos about Tacca