SUNSHINE Boosters: The Professional Advantage

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

Here is why SUNSHINE Boosters are the smart choice for your garden this spring:

• Amino Acid Stability: Unlike traditional fertilizers that use synthetic EDTA chelators, our formulas are amino-acid based. This means 100% of the nutrients are bioavailable and consumed by the plant, leaving zero toxic residues or salt build-up in your soil.
• Safe for Every Watering: Because our concentrations are scientifically balanced and mild, they are safe for daily use. This eliminates the "feast or famine" cycle of dry fertilizers and prevents accidental root burn.
• Pure Taste for Edibles: Our delicate formulas do not contain excess salts, urea, or ammonium salts that can ruin the flavor of your harvest. Your fruit and vegetables will retain their pure, natural taste.
• Pollinator Friendly: Our boosters are designed to be safe for honeybees and other beneficial insects, making them the responsible choice for an organic-style garden.

🌿For Potted Plants: Breaking the "Foodless" Cycle

Container-grown plants are trapped in soilless mixes (peat, bark, perlite) that are structurally great but naturally nutrient-deficient.

• Total Nutrition: Since pots lack the natural "buffet" of the ground, SUNSHINE Boosters™ provide every essential mineral the plant cannot find on its own.
• No Salt Build-up: Our amino-acid based formulas are consumed entirely by the plant, leaving zero toxic residue or root-burning salts behind.
• Daily Safety: Our mild concentrations eliminate the "feast or famine" cycle of dry fertilizers, making them safe for use with every single watering.

For In-Ground Plants: Unlocking the Soil

Even in the ground, plants often struggle to absorb what they need because soil compounds can "lock up" nutrients.

• Enhanced Solubility: SUNSHINE Boosters create a slightly acidic environment that helps dissolve stubborn salts in the soil, making them accessible to roots again.
• Precision Delivery: We provide mobile elements like Nitrogen precisely when the plant needs to push new spring growth.

🌿The Foliar Advantage: Direct-to-Leaf Delivery

Did you know a plant leaf can absorb nutrients even more efficiently than the roots? Foliar feeding is your "emergency button" for instant results.

• Quick Fix: Foliar applications with Sunshine Superfood are the fastest way to correct yellowing leaves or visible deficiencies.
• Metabolism Boost: Sprays like SUNSHINE-Epi act as a bio-regulator, helping plants recover from the stress of spring temperature swings.
• Better Fruit: SUNSHINE Honey is applied to leaves to naturally move sugars to the fruit, increasing sweetness and flavor.

🌿The Calcium Problem: Solved

As your plants wake up this Spring, they need structural strength. Think of Calcium as the "cement" that holds plant cells together. Without it, new spring growth is doomed to fail.

Signs Your Plant is Starving for Calcium:

• Deformed Leaves: New growth looks twisted, hooked, or curled.
• Blackened Tips: The very edges of young leaves turn white, then quickly blacken and die.

The Industry Secret: The "Missing" Mineral

Most fertilizers, both dry and liquid, completely skip Calcium. Why? Because it’s a chemical nightmare to keep stable in a concentrated solution. Most manufacturers rely on your irrigation water to deliver Calcium, but tap water is inconsistent and often fails to provide what a hungry, growing plant needs.

The SUNSHINE Boosters: Stable Calcium in Every Bottle

We have successfully stabilized Calcium directly into every single Sunshine Booster formula. Whether you are using Bombino, Robusta, or Megaflor, you are delivering a precise, stable dose of Calcium with every watering. No lockout, no sediment, and no relying on the "luck" of your tap water. Just strong, healthy cell walls and perfect spring growth.

🌿SUNSHINE-Epi: The Year-Round Bio-Regulator

Whether it’s the transition of spring, the extreme heat of summer, or the dry air of indoor wintering, SUNSHINE-Epi is your plant’s primary defense. This natural Brassinosteroid acts as a powerful immune booster, helping plants navigate stress wherever it comes from.

• Universal Stress Shield: Protects against temperature swings (both heat and cold), drought, and transplant shock.
• Vigorous Development: Dramatically improves root growth and speeds up the metabolism of young seedlings and cuttings.
• Eco-Safe: 100% non-toxic to humans, pets, and pollinators.

Note: While Epi is highly effective, it is a performance booster, not a substitute for proper care. It works best when paired with the right light, water, and a consistent feeding program. It won't bring a dead plant back to life, but it will help a struggling one find its footing.

🛒 Feed your plants

❓Frequently Asked Questions: SUNSHINE Boosters™

• What water should I use for foliar spraying?
  Tap water works perfectly for most. However, if your water is very "hard" (leaving white mineral spots on leaves), switch to distilled water for a cleaner finish and better absorption.
• How long does a diluted solution last?
  For maximum potency and to avoid nutrient degradation, try to use your diluted mixture within a few hours of preparation. Keep away from direct sun. Fresh is always best!
• Can I use SUNSHINE Boosters as a daily foliar spray?
  Yes! You can mist your plants daily to maintain high vigor, but you must reduce the dosage (use half the recommended strength) to avoid over-feeding.
• Can I mix boosters with pesticides or fungicides?
  It is best to apply them separately. Mixing fertilizers with chemical pesticides in one tank can trigger reactions that "lock out" nutrients or reduce the efficacy of the treatment.
• Will the liquid stain my patio or hands?
  No. Unlike traditional fertilizers with heavy blue or pink dyes, our solutions are clear or very light-colored. If you spill it, simply rinse with water—no stains, no mess.
• Can I mix different SUNSHINE Boosters together in one sprayer?
  Yes. All SUNSHINE Boosters are chemically compatible. You can combine a "growth" booster like Robusta with a "micro-element" complex like Superfood in the same water to save time.
• Are these products safe to use around my pets?
  Absolutely. Our formulas are 100% non-toxic and amino-acid based. Just ask Smokey and Sunshine—they are perfectly safe for households with curious cats, dogs, and children.
• Can I use these boosters on indoor plants?
  Yes. They are ideal for indoor use because they don't produce a "fertilizer smell" and won't cause salt crusting on your decorative pots or furniture.
• Is it safe to use on fruit and vegetables I plan to eat?
  Yes. Because our formulas contain no urea, nitrates, or harsh salts, they don't leave a "chemical" aftertaste. They actually help improve the natural sugars and flavor profile of your harvest.
• What is the best temperature for foliar spraying?
  Apply when temperatures are below 85°F. Early morning or late evening is best; this allows the leaves to remain wet longer, giving the plant more time to absorb the nutrients.

🛒 Feed your plants

✍️ Learn more about fertilizers

🌱 💪 Green Magic + SUNSHINE Boosters: A Complete System for Strong Plant Growth

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

☀️🌱 Sunshine Boosters: Complete Plant Nutrition

Sunshine Boosters provide complete plant nutrition, including Calcium and micronutrients that plants need for strong growth. Because nutrients are delivered in liquid form, plants can absorb them quickly and respond almost immediately.

The Practical Problem

Liquid feeding works well, but it requires frequent application. In real gardens, many growers simply do not have time to add liquid fertilizer with every watering.

Green Magic: The Foundation

Green Magic solves this problem by providing steady background nutrition through controlled-release fertilizer. It feeds plants gradually, so they continue receiving nutrients even between liquid feedings.

Why This Combination Works

Together, this system provides both complete nutrition and steady feeding. Sunshine Boosters supply fast nutrients and Calcium, while Green Magic maintains a stable nutrient supply between feedings.

✍️ How to Feed Your Plants

📅 Step 1 – Start of the Growing Season

• Apply Green Magic around the root zone every 6 months.
  
  In ground:
  • Small Shrubs (1–3 feet): Use approximately 1/4 to 1/2 cup per plant
  • Established Trees: Use 1/2 lb to 1 lb of product per 1 inch of trunk diameter.
  • Small In-Ground Ornamentals: A common "spoon" rate is roughly 1 teaspoon per gallon of estimated root volume (or per sq. ft. of surface area).
  • Spread evenly around the dripline. Avoid piling the granules against the base or trunk of the plant. For best results, lightly rake the granules into the top 1–2 inches of soil.
  Container plants:
  • Apply 1 tea spoon per 1 gal of soil (mix in with soil) every 6 months during active growth period, or with every re-potting.
• Water normally after application.
• Adjustment for Temperature. Because Green Magic is temperature-controlled, adjust your rate if your local climate is extreme:
  • Cooler Climates (<60°F average): Increase the rate by 20% to ensure enough nutrients are released.
  • Hot Climates (> 80°F average): Decrease the rate by 20% to prevent over-releasing as the heat speeds up the process.

☀️🌿 Step 2 – Active Growing Season

• Apply Sunshine Boosters during the growing season.
• Regular feeding (maintenance): Mix with tap water according to the ratio on the label. For SUNSHINE Robusta use 25 ml (5 tsp)per gallon of water and spray leaves every 5-7 days during active growth.
• Correction feeding ("medicine" dose): if plants show visible nutrient deficiencies, combine SUNSHINE Robusta with SUNSHINE Superfood and spray every 5–7 days until new growth appears healthy. All SUNSHINE Boosters products are compatible and can be mixed with water in the same sprayer.
• Best time to spray: early morning or evening when temperatures are cooler and leaves can absorb nutrients efficiently.
• Important: spray both the top and underside of leaves for maximum absorption.

📊 Seasonal feeding schedule with Green Magic and Sunshine Boosters.

Quick Dose Reference

• Green Magic: 1 teaspoon per 1 gallon of soil volume.
• Sunshine Boosters: 25 ml (5 tsp) per 1 gallon of water.
• Pro Tip: Always spray in the early morning or late evening to prevent leaf scorch and ensure maximum absorption through the stomata.

✨ Green Magic - 15% Off This Week

🛒 Feed your plants

✍️ Learn more about fertilizers

💕How would you like to give a Valentine plant gift?

Choose the plant

If you already know what feels right, choose the plant now. Sweetheart Hoya is a favorite for a reason, and there are other Valentine plants to explore if you want options.

A good choice when you feel confident, love plants, or are gifting something meant to live indoors.

Let your Valentine choose

If timing, weather, or choice feels uncertain, a Gift Card keeps the moment simple. Your Valentine can choose the perfect plant when the time is right.

Especially helpful for gardeners up north, or when you want the gift to unfold later.

About shipping and timing

We ship live plants with care and pay close attention to weather along the way. If conditions are not right, we may hold a shipment briefly to keep plants safe.

If timing or weather makes you hesitate, a Gift Card is an easy way to give a Valentine gift now and choose the plant later, when conditions are perfect.

More Valentines Gift Plants

• Valentines plants from around the world that symbolize love, connection, and appreciation. 👉Learn
• Top nine plants of love, desire, and the senses: aphrodisiacs and sensory connections. 👉Learn
• Four popular plants of friendship, appreciation, and shared connection. 👉Learn
• Eight favorite plants of romance, affection, and emotional connection. 👉Learn

🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide. Part 3. Watering and Humidity. ❄️

💦 Water, Humidity, and the Small Things That Decide Who Makes It to Spring

In Part 1 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) we covered the foundation: light, placement, and acclimation. That is the survival layer.

Part 2 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) is about what quietly ruins plants indoors in winter. Not overnight. Slowly.

Most winter losses come from good intentions and habits that worked fine outdoors or in summer, but fail indoors when growth slows.

Watering: Where Most Indoor Plants Die in Winter

If there is one winter skill that matters more than anything else, it is knowing when not to water.

In winter, light is weaker, temperatures are lower, roots stay cold longer, and growth slows or stops. Plants simply do not drink the way they do in summer.

How winter watering actually works

Do not water on a schedule. Winter does not care about your calendar.

Instead:

• Water thoroughly when you do water.
• Let excess drain out.
• Then wait longer than feels comfortable.

Before watering, test the soil with your finger. Water only when the top inch or so is dry.

If the soil below still feels cool and damp, do nothing. That is the hardest skill to learn.

Remember what we covered in Part 1: in winter, soil and roots stay cold much longer. Cold roots absorb water very slowly. Wet, cold soil is not helpful moisture. It is stress.

Waiting is often the correct move.

Common winter watering traps

• The soil surface looks dry, but the root ball is still wet.
• Pots near windows dry unevenly.
• Large pots stay wet for weeks.

Always check below the surface. If the pot feels cold and heavy, roots are not asking for water yet.

Signs you are watering too much

• Soil stays wet for many days.
• Pot feels heavy long after watering.
• Leaves yellow and soften.
• Fungus gnats appear.

As a rough guideline, most indoor tropicals need 25 to 50 percent less water than summer, sometimes even less in low light.

Always use room temperature water. Cold water shocks roots and slows recovery.

Humidity: Invisible Winter Stress

Winter indoor air is dry. Often far drier than people realize.

Heating systems pull moisture out of the air, and many homes sit at 20 to 30 percent humidity all winter. Most tropical plants prefer something closer to 50 to 60 percent.

Low humidity rarely kills plants outright. It weakens them first. That is why pests show up more often in winter. The plant is already stressed before insects arrive.

What low humidity looks like

• Brown or crispy leaf edges.
• Curling leaves.
• New leaves stuck while unfolding.
• Spider mites appearing suddenly.

What actually helps

• Group plants together.
• Use pebble trays.
• Run a room humidifier.
• Use bathrooms if light allows.

Humidity works best when plants are grouped. One isolated plant in dry air struggles far more than a group sharing moisture.

Misting leaves feels helpful, but it only raises humidity for minutes. It does not fix dry air.

Cleaning Leaves: More Important Than It Sounds

Winter light is already weak. Dust makes it worse.

Dusty leaves block light, clog stomata, and create hiding places for pests.

Wiping leaves is one of the simplest winter care steps, and one of the most ignored.

How to clean

• Soft cloth.
• Plain water.
• Mild soap if needed.

Gently wipe. No scrubbing. Every few weeks is enough.

Plants with fuzzy leaves, like African violets, should only be brushed gently with a dry brush.

Clean leaves also make problems easier to see. You will spot mites, scale, or damage early instead of discovering it weeks later.

Winter is not the season to be surprised.

Soil and Pots Behave Differently Indoors

Soil that works outdoors often behaves badly indoors. No wind, lower evaporation, and cooler roots mean the same soil stays wet far longer than expected.

In winter, roots care more about oxygen than water. Soil that stays wet pushes oxygen out, even if the plant looks fine above the soil line.

This is why rot often appears suddenly in late winter, not right after watering mistakes.

Pot size matters

Large pots dry slowly. Slow drying plus cool soil equals rot.

If a plant is barely growing, a very large pot is not doing it any favors.

About repotting

Winter is not the time to repot unless you must.

Only repot if:

• Roots are rotting.
• Pests are severe.
• The plant is clearly failing.

Repotting in winter slows recovery and often makes things worse.

Airflow: Quietly Important

Indoor winter air is still. Still air leads to mold, fungus, and spider mites.

Airflow is not about cooling plants. It is about breaking stagnant air layers that pests and fungus love.

A small fan on low, not blowing directly on plants, makes a big difference. Even gentle movement helps more than people expect.

Drainage and Mold: Boring but Critical

Never let pots sit in water.

Standing water causes root rot, fungus gnats, and mold smell. Always empty trays after watering.

Raise pots slightly so air can move underneath. It helps more than people expect.

If you smell sour soil or a musty odor, something is staying wet too long. That smell is an early warning, not a minor issue.

Fertilizer: Mostly Stop

This is where a lot of winter damage happens.

If a plant is not actively growing, fertilizer does not help. It hurts.

In winter, most indoor tropicals are in maintenance mode, not growth mode. Feeding during this time leads to salt buildup, root burn, and weak, floppy growth.

Green leaves do not mean the plant is growing. They often just mean the plant has not given up yet.

Growth shows up as new leaves, longer stems, or expanding roots. No growth means no feeding.

When light feeding is acceptable

Only if all of these are true:

• The plant is warm.
• Light is strong.
• You see real new growth.

Even then, feed lightly and less often than summer.

Spring will come. You do not need to force it.

Common Winter Care Mistakes

• Watering on a schedule.
• Misting instead of humidifying.
• Fertilizing to fix poor light.
• Ignoring cold windowsills.
• Placing pots on cold tile or stone.
• Repotting out of boredom.
• Letting trays stay wet.
• Assuming green leaves mean growth.
• Assuming winter leaf drop always means death.

Quick Winter FAQ

My soil stays wet forever.
Too little light, too cold, or pot too large. Water less.

Leaves are crispy but soil is wet.
Low humidity combined with overwatering.

Should I mist every day?
No. Fix the air, not the leaves.

Can I fertilize just a little?
Only if the plant is clearly growing.

Why do I suddenly have fungus gnats?
Wet soil indoors is the invitation.

My plant looks fine but has not grown in months. Is that bad?
No. Stability is success in winter.

When the Black Bat Lily decides to bloom

Every so often a plant blooms and the whole greenhouse seems to slow down.

That is what happened this week with the Black Bat Lily, Tacca chantrieri. We have grown Taccas for years, but when the black ones open properly, it still feels special. The flowers are dark and quiet, almost unreal up close. They do not shout for attention. They make you lean in.

Right now, we have a lot of them blooming at the same time. If you have never seen one in person, photos only get you part of the way there. The wings are darker than you expect, and the whiskers seem to go on forever. People walk into the greenhouse, stop, stare, and usually ask the same question: "Is that real?" - Yes. It is.

A quick honest note, because this matters. The blooms themselves are delicate and may not travel well. That is just the nature of this plant. The plants, however, are strong, well established. With the right conditions, they bloom again. This is not a one-time trick.

Black Tacca is not a beginner houseplant, but it is also not impossible. It likes filtered light, steady warmth, and humidity. It does especially well in a greenhouse or a bright indoor spot where you already keep plants that enjoy moisture. It is the kind of plant you keep close, not one you forget in the corner.

We are offering them now simply because they are ready and looking their best. If you have been waiting for one, this is a good moment.

You can see the Black Bat Lily here: https://toptropicals.com/store/item/2345.htm

Just wanted to share something we are enjoying in the greenhouse right now. Some plants come and go. Some stay with you.

Tacca (Bat Lily) FAQ

What is Tacca?

Tacca, also known as Bat Lily or Devil Flower, is a tropical plant grown for its unusual bat-shaped flowers with long whisker-like filaments. The most popular species is Tacca chantrieri, the Black Bat Lily.

Is Tacca hard to grow?

Tacca is not a beginner plant, but it is not impossible. It does best with warmth, humidity, and filtered light. Gardeners who already grow orchids, calatheas, or other humidity-loving plants usually do well with Tacca.

Does Tacca need a greenhouse?

A greenhouse is ideal, but not required. Tacca can be grown indoors in a bright spot with indirect light and good humidity, such as near a humidifier or in a bright bathroom with a window or skylight.

Will my Tacca arrive in bloom?

Plants may be blooming in the greenhouse, but flowers are often removed before shipping because they are delicate and do not travel well. The plants are well established and capable of blooming again with proper care.

How often does Tacca bloom?

Tacca does not bloom constantly. It may take time to establish before flowering, but once settled, it can bloom seasonally and may produce multiple flowers in warm, humid conditions.

Does Tacca grow from a bulb?

Tacca grows from a rhizome, not a bulb. The rhizome stores energy and allows the plant to regrow and bloom again.

Why does Tacca have long whiskers?

The long filaments are thought to help attract pollinators such as flies by mimicking the look of decaying organic matter. While unusual, this is part of the plant's natural pollination strategy.