New
article! By Jane Jordan, a horticulturist who
studied and worked at the RHS botanical gardens in
Cannington, England. She now lives in Sarasota, Florida.
Alongside her passion for horticulture, she is also a
novelist.
"...The name Frangipani is derived from a 16th century
Italian Marquess, who invented a plumeria scented perfume.
While in Hawaii they are known as Lei trees. Lei means
garland or wreath, and Lei flower garlands are famously
given as a symbol of affection. Hawaii has become
synonymous with this beautiful flower, although
Frangipani, is native to warm tropical areas of the
Mexico, Central America, India and the Caribbean,
accordingly, this plant is well suited to the Floridian
climate and hardy to USDA planting zones 9-11..."
Date: 17 Nov 2025
❄️Cold Night Survival Guide
Smokey and Sunshine Prepare Plants for the Cold Night.
Smokey: Come on, Sunshine, help me move these plants inside before it gets
dark!
Sunshine: I am helping... see? I’m supervising the mango
tree.
Smokey: You call that supervising? The frost cloth’s upside down!
When the forecast drops into the 30s, panic is not a plan. This is your
simple, clear checklist to protect every tropical in your garden. Think of
it as the quick emergency manual that goes hand in hand with the previous
cold-weather newsletter.
"We
all love our tropical flowers, mangoes, bananas, and rare fruit trees. A
single cold night does
not have to be a disaster. The key is knowing what to do, when to do it, and
what mistakes to avoid." - Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
🌡️ FROST AND FREEZE
A frost and a freeze are not the same. A frost is when you see ice crystals
on leaves or grass, while a freeze is when the air temperature drops below
32 F. The tricky part is that you can get
frost even when the air is above freezing, and you can have a freeze with no
frost at all. It all depends on humidity and the dew point. If the dew
point
is below freezing, the ground can cool faster than the air, letting frost
form even when your thermometer reads 35 or 36 F. And once the air itself
drops below 32 F, even for an hour, tender tropicals can be damaged. For
plants, a freeze is far more dangerous, because freezing air pulls heat out
of stems, branches, and roots. Frost usually burns leaves, but a true freeze
can injure wood, kill buds, and damage the entire plant.
Frost on the grass and leaves on Winter morning in Central
Florida
WHAT TO DO
AND NOT TO DO BEFORE A COLD SNAP
✔️ 5 THINGS TO DO:
Water well. Hydrated plants tolerate cold better than dry, stressed
ones.
Add mulch. A thick layer around the base keeps roots warm.
Block the wind. Move pots to a sheltered corner or patio.
Cover at night, uncover in the morning. Let plants breathe and get
light.
Add gentle heat if needed. Non-LED Christmas lights or a small old style
15-20W light can raise temps a few degrees.
❌ 5 THINGS NOT TO DO:
Do not prune or trim. Fresh cuts freeze first.
Do not overwater. Wet, cold soil invites root rot.
Do not let plants dry out either. Wilted plants freeze more easily.
Do not use dry fertilizer. Gentle liquid feeds like Sunshine
Boosters are safe to use with every watering: its intake naturally slows
down as watering decreases.
Do not look only at the thermometer. A long, windy night can be worse
than a short freeze.
TEMPERATURE
ACTION GUIDE (40 to 25 F)
40 to 38 F: Move potted plants to shelter, water soil, and cover
tender tropicals.
37 to 33 F: Use frost cloth and anchor it down so the wind does
not lift it.
32 to 30 F: Add a heat source like non-LED lights.
29 to 25 F: Double-cover sensitive plants, wrap trunks, and
protect roots heavily.
COLD
TOLERANCE BY PLANT TYPE
Before a cold night, it really helps to know your plant’s exact
cold limits. Every species is different, and young plants are always more
sensitive than mature ones. Take a few minutes to look up your varieties in
our Tropical
Plants Encyclopedia
— it will tell you the safe temperature range, how much protection
each plant needs, and which ones must be covered or moved before the next
cold snap hits.
Bananas: leaf burn below 37 F
Mango, Annona: hurt around 32 F
Cold hardy avocados: Mature tree can take about 25 F. Young trees must
be protected
Olives, Citrus, Guava, Jaboticaba: usually OK outside with mulch
QUICK-ACTION
TABLE
Before the cold arrives, make yourself a quick list of every plant and
what action each one needs. It saves time when temperatures start dropping
and keeps you from scrambling in the dark. Check that you have enough frost
cloth, blankets, and supplies on hand so you can cover everything without
rushing. Planning ahead makes cold nights much less stressful.
Bring Indoors: Cacao, Bilimbi, Coffee. They need warm, bright
light.
Cover Outdoors: Mango, Jackfruit, Banana, Annona. Use frost cloth, not
plastic on leaves.
Covering large mango and avocado trees in pots at TopTropicals during
cold nights
GADGETS AND
TOOLS THAT HELP
Indoor helpers: LED lights, small heaters, bottom-heat mats,
timers.
Outdoor helpers: frost cloth rolls, mini greenhouses, non-LED Christmas
lights or small incandescent lights, smart thermometers.
Always keep electrical safety in mind, especially if you are using extension
cords outdoors. Use only weather-rated cords, keep all connections off the
ground, and protect plugs from moisture. Make sure heaters and lights are
stable, secured, and never touching fabric covers. A few minutes of safety
check
can prevent a dangerous situation on a cold, wet night.
And if you want to keep plants strong through winter, add Sunshine
Boosters to your watering routine. It is gentle, safe in cold weather,
and gives plants an extra edge.
AFTER THE
COLD PASSES
In the morning, uncover plants. Leaving covers on during the day can trap
heat and cook the tender new growth, especially under the sun. The only
exception is true frost cloth designed for all-day use, which allows air,
light, and moisture to pass through. Regular blankets, sheets, and plastic
must come off as soon as the sun rises.
Do not cut anything yet. A plant can look completely dead after a freeze,
but many branches are still alive under the bark. Cutting too soon removes
wood that would recover on its own. Wait until new growth begins in spring.
That is when you can see exactly which branches are truly dead.
Use the scratch test. Gently scratch the bark with your nail or a small
knife. If the layer underneath is green, the branch is alive. If it is brown
and dry, it is likely dead. But even then, wait until warm weather to be
sure, because sometimes only the tips die back while the lower part of the
branch survives.
Once the weather stabilizes, resume light feeding. Plants coming out of cold
stress need gentle support, not heavy fertilizer. A mild liquid feed like
Sunshine
Boosters helps them rebuild roots and push new growth without burning
tender tissue.
Your tropical garden can survive any cold night if you prepare right. Cold
snaps always feel stressful in the moment, but once you know your plants,
have the right supplies, and follow a simple plan, it becomes routine. A few
minutes of preparation before dark can save months of growth and keep your
collection healthy all winter.
Frost cloth is the true workhorse of cold protection: it keeps heat in,
keeps frost off, and will not suffocate plants the way plastic or blankets
can. Having a few rolls ready means you never have to scramble at the last
minute. Sunshine
Boosters give your plants gentle support during the colder months so
they stay strong enough to bounce back quickly when warm weather
returns.
A little planning now will pay off in spring, when your mango, banana,
citrus, and all your favorite tropicals come back happy and ready to
grow.
Smokey and Sunshine Wrap Up the Garden with Frost Cloth Before the
Chill.
Smokey: "Thermometer says 45. Time to wrap the bananas!"
Sunshine: "You wrap the bananas. I’ll guard the mulch… from this
sunny spot."
Smokey: "Teamwork, Sunshine. Teamwork."
🌡️ Cold nights are coming - but your
tropicals do not need to shiver!
Even in sunny Florida and other warm zones, one cold snap
can undo months of growth. Preparation is everything. Tropical plants can
handle a lot, but they dislike surprises. Let’s make sure
your garden stays safe, strong, and happy all winter long.
Tips from Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
👉 Group and Check Your Plants
You already know which plants are in pots and which are in the ground.
What matters now is prioritizing by cold sensitivity.
Identify the tender tropicals – papaya, banana, plumeria, adenium,
heliconia – and decide which ones get covered first when temperatures
drop.
Keep frost cloths or old sheets near those areas, ready to grab fast. If
your garden is large,
label protection zones or mark plants that always need extra care. The goal
is to have a plan, not a panic, when the cold alert hits.
Once you know your priorities, you can plan the rest of your protection
strategy.
👉 Feed and Mulch
Stop using high-nitrogen fertilizers by late fall. They push soft new growth
that freezes easily.
Add compost around the base of your plants and top with 3 to 4 inches of
mulch. Mulch acts like a blanket: it keeps warmth in, protects the roots,
and keeps soil moisture steady. Just make sure the soil drains well; cold
and soggy soil leads to root rot. In raised beds, check that water flows
away easily.
After you feed and mulch, it is time to look at how your local zone changes
the game.
👉 Zone-by-Zone Tips
Moving Tropical Plants Indoors for Winter Protection
Zone 10: You are lucky! This is mostly a maintenance season.
Watch for root rot after heavy rain, trim lightly if needed, and protect
tender young trees during surprise chills. Keep some frost cloth ready just
in case.
Zone 9: This is the main action zone. Nights can dip into the
30s. Deep-water your trees once before cold nights to insulate the roots.
Apply heavy mulch, and have frost protection ready to go. If you grow
tropical fruit like mango or guava, consider wrapping young trunks in burlap
or foam pipe insulation.
Zone 8: This is where tropical gardening becomes creative. Stick
to cold-hardy tropicals such as loquat, guava, or cold-hardy avocado
varieties. Use portable greenhouses, wrap trunks, and move smaller plants
indoors or to a heated porch when frost threatens.
Now that the garden beds are set, let’s look at your pots and
containers – your most mobile plants.
👉 Container and Patio Plants
Potted plants are the easiest to protect but also the quickest to freeze.
Start reducing watering now so roots do not stay too wet in cooler weather.
Before moving them, check for insects hiding under leaves or in the soil.
Group your pots close to a wall for reflected heat and wind protection.
If you plan to bring them indoors, do it gradually. Move them closer to the
house for a few days before bringing them all the way inside to help them
adjust to lower light and humidity.
When the chill starts, many gardeners rush to move everything inside at once
– but a smooth transition works much better.
👉 Indoor Plants
When bringing plants inside, give them a good rinse to remove dust and bugs,
and flush the soil to wash out salts from summer fertilizing. Keep
them separate from your houseplants for a week to make sure no pests come
along. Expect some leaf drop – it is normal as they adjust to lower
light. Give them bright light near a window, and cut watering by about half
until spring. Avoid misting too much; good airflow matters more than
humidity during winter.
Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a
while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.
👉 Timing Is Everything
The key is to prepare before the first cold warning. Check your weather app
regularly once nights start dropping into the 50s. Keep covers, mulch, and
supplies ready so you are not running outside at midnight with a flashlight
and a frozen hose. Have your frost cloths labeled by plant group and stored
in an easy spot. A little organization now saves a lot of stress later.
Many tropicals, like hibiscus, brugmansia, and crotons, may look tired for a
while, but they will bounce back quickly once days get longer.
Remember: the goal is to help your plants rest safely. Many gardeners prune
or fertilize too late in the season – we will talk about why that can
be risky next week."— says Tatiana Anderson, Top Tropicals Plant
Expert
Coming next mail-list: The best gadgets for cold protection (lights,
heaters, frost covers) and what NOT to do in winter.
Protecting Tropical Plants with Frost Covers at Top Tropicals
Nursery
Date: 12 Jan 2025
How to protect tropical plants in Winter
Winter tips and podcast
Photo above: wrapping plants with frost cloth
Winter can be tough on plants, especially on tropical varieties. But with a little preparation, you can protect your garden and keep your plants safe from the cold. Here's how:
Winter Care Tips for Tropical Plants
Cut watering: Reduce watering to prevent root rot. Cold + wet = dead roots.
Water before frost: Thirsty plants are more vulnerable. Water them before a cold night to prevent damage.
Wind protection: Wind is more harmful than temperature drops. Plant near structures like houses or trees for shelter.
Prepare for long cold periods: If cold weather lasts for hours, use all available protection, including Christmas lights and propane heaters.
Don't use dry fertilizer in winter: Heavy fertilizing encourages tender growth, which is more susceptible to cold damage. Sunshine Boosters liquid fertilizers are safe to use year around as their intake is controlled by reduced watering. Use fabric covers, not plastic: Plastic can cook plants in the sun, while fabric allows better ventilation.
Photo above: we cover our plants in the nursery with a thin synthetic fabric (sintepon) called "frost cloth" or "strawberry cloth". It is light, breathable and allows light and water to go through unlike plastic that creates heavy water pockets.
Prepare for Cold Nights
Wrap plants: On cold nights, cover individual plants or trees with sheets or blankets to shield them from wind chill.
Use Christmas lights: A simple string of lights can add extra warmth, protecting your plants during frosty nights.
Use propane heaters: For added warmth in a larger area, place a propane heater near your plants. Make sure to follow safety guidelines and keep the heater at a safe distance from flammable materials. This can help maintain a few extra degrees of warmth, especially in more open garden spaces or temporary greenhouses. Always ensure proper ventilation to avoid harmful gas buildup.
Photo above: we use both propane and kerosene heaters at the nursery
Large Collections? Build a Temporary Greenhouse
Affordable winter greenhouse: For large plant collections, you don't need an expensive greenhouse. A mobile carport with plastic or fabric covering, costing around $200, can house up to 100 plants!
Photo above: Temporary wrapping around plant collection with a plastic or frost cloth protects from a windchill. It may also win you a few degrees even without a heater. In this particular case, according to our temp sensors, with 30F outside, it was 41F inside this "dome", no heaters used.
Southern Exposure and Garage Storage
Southern windowsills: Compact tropicals can thrive on southern-facing windowsills, getting plenty of sunlight during the day.
Move plants inside: If you have larger collections, move them into a well-lit garage for the colder nights or longer periods.
Photo above: using Christmas lights around plants while wrapping with frost cloth.
Key Factors for Survival
Cold duration: Tropical plants can survive brief cold spells but long durations, even above freezing, can be deadly.
Wind-chill: Wind chill can be harsher than the temperature itself.
Exposure: Southern-facing slopes hold heat longer, making them ideal for your plants.
Humidity: Proximity to lakes or oceans can create a milder micro-climate.
Gradual temperature Drops are safer. Plants adjust better to slow temperature changes than sudden cold blasts. Gradual cooling allows plants to prepare, reducing the risk of damage.
Strengthen Plant Hardiness
Health and maturity: Well-established, healthy plants are more cold-hardy. Boost plant immunity: Use products like SUNSHINE-Epi to improve cold resistance. Apply it before and during cold snaps to protect your plants. Healthy plant is hardy. Make sure to fertilize your plants on regular basis - healthier and stronger plants are more cold hardy.
With these steps, you can protect your plants and help them survive the winter months. Stay
warm and keep your garden thriving!
Podcast with Horticulturist Mark Hooten:
How to Protect Tropical Plants in Winter
Spring has arrived, and plants are coming back to life. New shoots are
appearing, fresh leaves are unfolding, and roots are beginning to grow
actively again. As plants enter this important stage of the season, they
need more than just water to support their growth. Proper nutrition is
essential for strong development and healthy
plants. SUNSHINE
Boosters provide the balanced nutrition plants need to start the growing
season strong.
A simple rule we follow in our nursery: new growth responds best to foliar
feeding.
When nutrients are sprayed directly on the leaves, plants can absorb them
quickly and efficiently.
Immediate action – nutrients are absorbed through the
leaves and start working right away.
No delay traveling through soil – plants do not need to
wait for nutrients to move down to the roots.
Avoids soil lockout – micronutrients can become unavailable
in high pH soils, but foliar feeding bypasses this problem.
Supports stressed plants – when roots are cold, damaged, or
newly transplanted, foliar feeding helps
plants recover faster.
However, sometimes plants begin to show visible nutrient deficiencies.
Yellow leaves, slow growth, brown leaf edges, or distorted new leaves are
often early signs that the plant is missing essential elements needed for
healthy development.
Piper sarmentosum - Vietnamese Pepper - with
fertilizer (left) and without (right)
Chaa-plu Plant Facts
Botanical name: Piper sarmentosum Also known as: Chaa-plu, Vietnamese Pepper, Lalot, La Lot, Wild Betel Leaf
USDA Zone: 9 - 11
Highligths
These symptoms are especially common in container plants, where nutrients
can be quickly depleted or become
unavailable due to soil pH and watering conditions.
Use the quick reference table below to identify common nutrient-related
symptoms and the recommended SUNSHINE solution to correct them.
Symptom you see
What to do
Pale leaves, slow growth, weak new shoots
(often nitrogen related)
For most plants, foliar feeding works best when applied lightly and
regularly during active growth.
Regular feeding (maintenance): Mix with tap water according to
the ratio on the label. For SUNSHINE Robusta use 25 ml (5 tsp)per gallon
of water and spray leaves every 5-7
days during active growth.
Correction feeding ("medicine" dose): if plants show visible
nutrient deficiencies, combine SUNSHINE Robusta with SUNSHINE Superfood and
spray every 5–7 days until new growth appears healthy. All SUNSHINE
Boosters
products are compatible and can be mixed with water in the same sprayer.
Best time to spray: early morning or evening when temperatures
are cooler and leaves can absorb nutrients efficiently.
Important: spray both the top and underside of leaves for
maximum absorption.
Coffee plants before and after regular Sunshine
Robusta applications