🌿 Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 2.Temperature. ❄️

Smokey: Too cold. We need more heaters so the plants feel comfortable.
Sunshine: I feel comfortable.
Smokey: You are not part of my plant collection, but I am glad you are comfortable.

🌡️ TEMPERATURE: THE TROPICAL DORMANCY LINE

In Part 1 (Winter Survival Guide: Temperature) we covered the foundation: light, placement, and acclimation. That is the survival layer.

Most tropicals stop growing below 70 to 75 F. They stay green, but their engine shuts down.

Below 70F:

• Water intake drops.
• Roots slow down.
• Fertilizing becomes risky.
• Root root becomes easy.

If you WANT your plants to grow in winter, you must take care of everything: Warmth, light, humidity, water. It all works together.

• Aim for 75 F with bright light. Water lightly. No fertilizer.
• Watch out for drafts. Cold windows. Door blasts. Garage entryways. Even one gust can trigger leaf drop.
• Vents are the opposite problem: hot, dry, dusty air. That gives you crispy edges and mites.
Root zone temperature matters just as much as room air. Your thermostat may say 72 F, but your pot on a tile floor may be sitting at 55 F. Fix this by elevating pots on boards or stands. Use Styrofoam. Never keep pots directly on cold tile o windowsill
• Extra winter heat: Space heaters are fine if used smartly. Do not blow hot air directly on plants. Keep heaters away from cords, trays, and water. Oil filled radiators are the safest option for plant rooms.
• Use a humidifier if you want growth or want to prevent spider mites. But do not blow mist directly onto leaves. Always place the unit lower than the plant canopy.
• Grouping helps. Put tropical plants close together to share humidity. Do not mix succulents with humidity lovers.
• Cats and dogs love to knock over lights and stands. Secure your fixtures. Trust us.
• Airflow: Light airflow is healthy. Direct fan blast is not. Still, dry corners invite mites.
• A mild night drop is OK. A big one below 55 F will stop growth completely.

A mandevilla thriving indoors with bright pink blooms and glossy green leaves.

☂️ PLACEMENT: MICROCLIMATES RULE EVERYTHING

Indoors is one big tradeoff: light but cold near windows, warm but dim away from them. The winning combo is a warm room with supplemental light.

Best zones to keep plants in winter:

• South or east windows with additional light
• Warm living spaces
• Bright bathrooms for natural humidity

Worst zones to keep plants in winter:

• Behind curtains
• Directly on windowsills
• Near heaters or vents
• Against cold exterior walls
• Dark corners without supplemental lighting

A vigorous indoor philodendron stretching across the window.

💨 ACCLIMATION

Moving a plant from outdoors to indoors is a shock. Light drops. Humidity drops. Airflow stops. Soil cools. Even healthy plants may drop some leaves for a few weeks. That is normal.

Before you bring them inside:

• Rinse foliage to remove dust and pests. We recommend Sunshine NoBug - and organic, safe solution.
• Check for ants.
• Trim weak branches.
• Treat soil if fungus gnats are present.

Try to bring plants inside before the first cold front, not after. If you are reading this too late, do the prep now and expect a little leaf drop.

If you nail light and temperature, winter becomes simple. In the next mail-list we will cover watering, fertilizer timing, humidity, and other indoor tricks that keep tropicals happy till spring. Stay tuned.

Cat Bob is inspecting his indoor garden around the tub with a bright skylight

✔️ WINTER INDOOR FAQ: TEMPERATURE AND PLACEMENT

Q: Why are leaves dropping only on the window side?
A: Cold glass. The room may be warm, but the glass surface can be much colder.

Q: Is a cold room OK for tropicals?
A: They may survive, but they will not grow below about 65F to 75F. When nights stay below 65F for a week, many plants enter dormancy.

Q: My room feels warm. Why is my plant still not growing?
A: Check the soil temperature. Pots on cold tile can be 10 to 20F colder than the air.

Q: Can plants sit directly on the floor?
A: Not on cold tile. Always elevate them on boards, stands, or trays.

Q: Is it OK to keep plants near a heater or vent?
A: No. Vents and heaters blast hot, dry air and cause crispy leaves and mites.

Q: My plant is dropping leaves after coming indoors. Why?
A: Normal acclimation to reduced light and humidity right after the move.

Q: Can I keep plants in a bright bathroom?
A: Yes. Bathrooms can have good humidity. Just keep pots off cold tile.

Q: Do I need a humidifier?
A: Not for survival. Yes if you want better growth and fewer pests like spider mites.

Q: Do I need a grow tent?
A: No. A bright LED plus a warm room is enough for winter holding.

Q: Should I fertilize in winter?
A: Not now. Winter fertilizer rules will be covered in the next mail-list.

Q: Should I water the same as in summer?
A: No. Indoor plants need much less water in winter. Watering rules also coming soon.

🛒 Shop Indoor Garden

📚 Learn more:

• Bring the Jungle Inside: Winter Survival Guide Part 1: Lighting
• SUNSHINE NoBug - Natural Plant Protector
• How to overwinter tropical plants indoors
• Feeding indoor plants
• Overwintering Adeniums outside of tropics

🎄 Holiday Plant Market:
Saturday, Dec 13, 2025, 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM 🎉

Smokey: We invited people, so we need to be prepared for the crowd.
Sunshine: I am prepared. I saw yummy donuts on the flyer.
Smokey: Of course you did, genius. You are responsible for donuts and coffee.

It is almost here. Our big end-of-season Plant Day. All year we grow the rare and unusual plants that will be featured at this event, and Saturday is the day they finally meet their new homes. The garden turns into a small holiday escape: fresh air, bright colors, music, snacks, and the PeopleCats greeting everyone like they have known you for years.

Meet PeopleCats crew in charge

King

Sushi

Snitch

Paisley

Persephone

Loki

Why you should come

It is December in Florida - warm breeze, sunshine, and perfect planting weather. While the rest of the country is scraping frost off windshields, you're choosing which banana tree to take home. Come enjoy a colorful Saturday surrounded by plants, music, snacks, and friendly PeopleCats. This is your holiday escape, your plant-hunting adventure, and your chance to bring home something amazing before the season ends.

Not Local?

Learn more about the event

🛒 Go Shopping

❄️ The Hardiness Report: February 2026 ❄️

🐾 Smokey & Sunshine’s real-world survival data from our Sebring, Florida Research Gardens. Smokey analyzed the data. Sunshine just stayed happy. Here is what they found.

📊 Weather Data – February 1–6, 2026

Sebring, Florida – 132 years of recorded observations
This was not a light frost. It was a prolonged, windy, penetrating hard freeze.

• 🌡 Minimum temperature: 25F
• ❄️ Wind chill: 14F
• ⏳ Duration: 3 nights of 8–10 hour hard freeze
• ☀️ Daytime temperatures: around 50F for 7 days
• 🌀 Wind: sustained 20 mph, gusts 40–50 mph

While all our plants in pots were protected in greenhouses, our in-ground plantings faced the freeze outdoors. We covered what we could. Even so, some plants were damaged, some died, and some surprised us by surviving.

In the next few newsletters, we will share the real survivors - the plants that proved themselves in the ground, under real conditions. Smokey and Sunshine have been out in the fields assessing the damage from the February 1–6 freeze. While many plants struggled, the Macadamia proved to be a true standout. This is how we grow them to handle the tough years.

Why does this matter? Because we have gotten used to warm winters, and this freeze was a rude awakening. Not everyone lives in Miami. If you garden in places where a real cold event can happen, you have to be prepared - and you have to plant what can take it.

🌰 Macadamia: Freeze Tested and Standing

When temperatures dropped to 25F with wind chill near 14F, our established macadamia trees remained upright, green, and structurally intact. Leaves held. Branches stayed firm. No collapse, no panic.

That is not luck. That is macadamia hardiness.

Often considered a "tropical luxury nut," macadamia proved it can handle more than many gardeners expect. In USDA Zones 9b-11, with proper drainage and site selection, it is not just ornamental - it is a long-term food tree with real resilience.

In a winter that reminded us not to take warmth for granted, macadamia earned its place on the survivor list.

The nut itself is famous for its strength. The shell is among the hardest in the nut world, requiring serious pressure to crack. Inside, the kernel is creamy, buttery, rich, and deeply satisfying. High in monounsaturated fats and naturally low in sugar, macadamias have long been valued both for flavor and for nutrition.

The tree is equally impressive. An evergreen with tough leaves and elegant spring flowers, it matures into a productive, manageable canopy. Nuts develop slowly over six to seven months. Production begins in a few years and increases steadily as the tree matures. Plant it once, and it can reward you for decades.

Cold will come again. It always does. The question is not whether winter will test your garden. The question is whether your trees are ready. Macadamia proved it is. If you are building a garden that feeds you for decades, this is a tree worth planting.

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

🌞 Spring Nutrition Strategy: How to Identify and Fix Plant Nutrient Starvation

Fellow gardeners,

Spring has arrived, and plants are coming back to life. New shoots are appearing, fresh leaves are unfolding, and roots are beginning to grow actively again. As plants enter this important stage of the season, they need more than just water to support their growth. Proper nutrition is essential for strong development and healthy plants. SUNSHINE Boosters provide the balanced nutrition plants need to start the growing season strong.

A simple rule we follow in our nursery: new growth responds best to foliar feeding. When nutrients are sprayed directly on the leaves, plants can absorb them quickly and efficiently.

• Immediate action – nutrients are absorbed through the leaves and start working right away.
• No delay traveling through soil – plants do not need to wait for nutrients to move down to the roots.
• Avoids soil lockout – micronutrients can become unavailable in high pH soils, but foliar feeding bypasses this problem.
• Supports stressed plants – when roots are cold, damaged, or newly transplanted, foliar feeding helps plants recover faster.

However, sometimes plants begin to show visible nutrient deficiencies. Yellow leaves, slow growth, brown leaf edges, or distorted new leaves are often early signs that the plant is missing essential elements needed for healthy development.

These symptoms are especially common in container plants, where nutrients can be quickly depleted or become unavailable due to soil pH and watering conditions.

Use the quick reference table below to identify common nutrient-related symptoms and the recommended SUNSHINE solution to correct them.

🌿Foliar Feeding: How Much and How Often

For most plants, foliar feeding works best when applied lightly and regularly during active growth.

• Regular feeding (maintenance): Mix with tap water according to the ratio on the label. For SUNSHINE Robusta use 25 ml (5 tsp)per gallon of water and spray leaves every 5-7 days during active growth.
• Correction feeding ("medicine" dose): if plants show visible nutrient deficiencies, combine SUNSHINE Robusta with SUNSHINE Superfood and spray every 5–7 days until new growth appears healthy. All SUNSHINE Boosters products are compatible and can be mixed with water in the same sprayer.
• Best time to spray: early morning or evening when temperatures are cooler and leaves can absorb nutrients efficiently.
• Important: spray both the top and underside of leaves for maximum absorption.

🛒 Feed your plants

🌈 Adeniums: More Than Just Plants

🌱 Shape, Color, and Why Each Adenium Feels Unique

Adeniums can stop you in a strange way. It is not only the flowers, although they help. It is the whole plant. The swollen base, the curves, the way no two look quite the same. Some are thick and heavy, some more refined, almost like they were shaped on purpose. After a bit, you stop seeing them as regular plants and start treating them more like objects you want to keep and look at.

That is usually how a collection starts. One plant, then another that feels different, and then you want contrast. Light next to dark, soft next to bold, one with a wide base next to a taller form. It is not really about having many. It is about how they look together. And over time, each one changes a little, so the collection never stays the same.

🛒 Explore Exotic Adenium varieties