Garden Blog - Top Tropicals

Date: 7 Oct 2025

🌸 Caring for Winter-Blooming Trees

Smokey  the  tuxedo  cat  plants  a  young  Bauhinia  blakeana  tree  in  the 
 ground  while  Sunshine,  a  ginger  cat,  relaxes  in  a  wicker  recliner  with  a  cup
    of  pumpkin  latte.  A  Callistemon  Little  John  bottlebrush  blooms  beside  him, 
 surrounded  by  pumpkins,  autumn  leaves,  and  warm  golden 
 light.

Tips from Top Tropicals Plant Expert - Tatiana Anderson

When northern gardens fade into gray, our tropicals wake up. Winter is color season here - and even if you live up north, you can still enjoy these same flowering trees indoors or on a sunny patio.

From the fiery Royal Poinciana to the golden Tabebuia and violet Jacaranda, these eight trees prove that winter can bloom anywhere

How to Care for Winter-Flowering Trees

We're often asked, at Top Tropicals, “Can I really grow tropical trees in winter?” Yes — with the right light and care, you can. Here’s what works best both outdoors and indoors, according to our expert, Tatiana Anderson.

🌡️ Fall Planting Guide

Let’s talk about timing, because that’s the part most people get nervous about. Everyone asks: “Isn’t it too cool to plant now?” — and the answer is no! Fall and early winter are actually the best months for tropicals in Zones 9 to 11.

Here’s why: the air has cooled off, but the soil is still warm. Roots love that combination. They quietly spread underground while the rest of the plant takes a break. By spring, those roots are ready to feed a burst of new growth — and that’s when you’ll see the first big flush of flowers.

Pick a sunny spot that gets plenty of light — six to eight hours if you can. Loosen the soil and mix in compost or pine bark so it drains well. Dig a hole about twice as wide as the pot and just as deep. Set the plant level with the ground, backfill, and water it deeply to settle everything in. Then add mulch — two or three inches is plenty — but keep it away from the trunk so it can breathe.

Tatiana’s tip: “Fall planting builds roots while everyone else is resting. By spring, your tree wakes up ready to grow.”

🌳 Outdoor Care (Warm Climates Zones 9–11)

Now, let’s talk about what happens after planting — because real gardening starts once the plant is yours. Tropical trees thrive on routine: steady sunlight, deep watering, and just a bit of attention.

Water them about once a week when the weather is mild, more often if it’s dry or windy. Always check the soil first — if it feels dry two inches down, go ahead and water. Mulch helps more than most people realize — it keeps roots cool in summer and warm in winter, and it saves you from watering as often.

Now, for those of you in Zone 9, here’s the truth: your trees can take a chill, but they don’t love surprises. A quick night in the upper 20s F won’t hurt mature plants, but young ones appreciate a little help — a frost cloth or being planted at the south side.

And don’t underestimate the wind. Cold, dry gusts can burn leaves faster than frost. Use fences, hedges, or taller shrubs as windbreaks, and take advantage of microclimates — those warm pockets next to the house, brick patios, or corners that get extra afternoon sun.

Tatiana’s tip: “A tropical garden in Zone 9 isn’t about fighting nature — it’s about cooperating with it. Find the warm corners, protect from the cold wind, and your trees will thank you with flowers all winter.”

🏚️ Indoor & Patio Care (Cooler Climates)

For our northern friends — yes, you can grow tropicals indoors! You just need good light, warm air, and a little attention.

Pick a large pot, with drainage holes and a light tropical soil mix. Place it in a bright window — south or southwest if you can — or under grow lights for about 12–14 hours a day. Keep temperatures between 65 and 85 F, and water when the top inch of soil dries out.

Misting helps keep leaves clean and adds humidity. Rotate the pot every couple of weeks so all sides get sun. In summer, move your plant outdoors gradually so it can enjoy real sunlight — then bring it back in before nights drop below 40 F.

Tatiana’s tip: “Don’t be afraid of growing trees in pots. They adapt beautifully — just select the right trees and pay attention to their needs.”

✔️ Learn more: Secrets of Winter planting - tropical planting breaks the rules.

🎥 Watch short videos about Winter Bloomers:

Royal  poinciana,  Flamboyant  tree,  Delonix  regia

💲 Special Offer – 20% off Winter Bloomers!

Get 20% OFF winter bloomers with code

BLOOM2025

Min order $100. Excluding S/H, valid online only, cannot be combined with other offers.

Hurry, offer expires October 13, 2025!

👉 Explore Winter Flowering Plants

Date: 28 Dec 2018

How to get a Jasmine to bloom.
Caring for jasmines as container plants during Winter

TopTropicals.com

Locate the jasmine plant where it will receive bright filtered light at least six hours every day.

Put a few pebbles in a shallow plate or tray and pour fresh water over the pebbles. Set the pot on the pebbles, but don't let the water level touch the bottom of the pot. This increases the humidity in the air around the jasmine. Keep the plant away from wood stoves, heat vents and radiators.

Water the jasmine when the top 1/2 inch of the soil feels dry. Don't let the soil get soggy, and never let the pot sit in water. Water the plant sparingly during the winter.

Feed jasmine twice a month between Spring and early Fall, using a granulated slow-release, or water-soluble houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Don't fertilize during the winter months.

Prune the jasmine as needed to maintain the desired shape. Never prune in winter, as the plant will be preparing to bud.

Encourage the jasmine to bloom by putting it in a cool room at night for four to five weeks during Fall to Early Winter. The plant should get plenty of sunlight during the day, but during the night, move it to a pitch-dark room where the temperature is between 40 and 50 degrees F. After four to five weeks, leave the plant in its regular, daytime location. The plant should start blooming in mid-Winter to early Spring.

See all jasmine plants...

Date: 6 Dec 2018

Why starting tropicals from seed indoors is better than outside?

TopTropicals.com

Q: I am in Texas, it is getting cold, but I bought these seeds the last two packs, as I didn't want to miss them, was looking for a long time and found you had them. Should I wait until spring to plant them?

A: You can grow tropical plants from seed year round and don't have to wait until warm weather outside. It is, in fact, beneficial to start tropicals indoors in a controlled temperature, moisture and humidity. Seeds of some species are very sensitive to excess water and/or require a certain range of temperature for germination... Besides, it's so much fun!
First, read the basics: Happy Hobby: growing tropicals from seeds

Advantages of indoor growing from seed

It is easier to keep under control indoors:

1) Temperature and Light. Although many tropical seeds require higher temperature and bright light for germination (hot sun may help), it may be hard to avoid overheating and drying out when you put trays in full sun. Using heat pads and additional lighting indoors makes germination smooth, even may take a little longer than in hot sun.
2) Soil moisture. If you ever lost your seeds or tiny seedlings to a heavy summer rain, you sure will appreciate your own moisture-controlled environment! Just make sure to use the right soil mix.
3) Air humidity. Indoor air is drier than outside. It may not be best for some tropical plants, but definitely perfect for seed health - they will never get moldy considering you keep your eye on the plantings.
4) Pre-treatment. Some seeds require scarification (sanding down hard shell), others stratification (cold treatment), but all seeds will benefit from SUNSHINE-S soak before planting. It is easier to do in your home lab. Based on our experience, using Sunshine pre-treatment reduces the risk of fungal damage and improves germination from 30 to 65%.
5) After germination culture. Watching seedlings closely in your home environment and giving them all that is needed for healthy, fast growth - miscroelements and first fertilizer - will help to establish young plants just in time before planting them out in Spring-Summer.

Read more: From Kristi - how to grow tropicals from seed.

Check out our seeds selection...

Date: 19 Sep 2018

A Sacred Earthworm: benefit or damage?

by Mark Hooten

TopTropicals.com

Q: We have lots of earthworms in our soil. I've heard they are beneficial for the plants, it it true? Or should I try (and how) to get rid of them at least for container plants?

A: From my earliest childhood, I remember learning that "earthworms" are wonderful, beneficial creatures for our gardens. I had heard that they improved the soil by both aerating it via the tiny tunnels they dig from burrowing activities, AND leaving their droppings which act as fertilizer. However, both my personal experiences and studies have shown otherwise. The truth is that the vast majority of earthworms we encounter in our daily horticultural practices are not even native to North America. In fact, they were introduced from Europe, beginning with the colonial period, mostly accidentally in things like the ballasts of ships, and from soil from around the roots of plants being imported. However, once they arrived here, they began to irreparably alter the natural eco-systems of our forests... Continue reading...

Date: 11 Aug 2018

From Anna Banana: Shipping and planting during hot weather

TopTropicals

Q: I received email notification that my order was delayed due to hot weather. Why? And do I need to do anything special if I plant when it is hot?

A: When plants are shipped via FedEx Ground, it is hot in the truck! According to our FedEx area manager information, if outside temperature is 100 degrees, inside the truck it can be 130! We don't want to put your plants through that much stress. We monitor the weather at destination, and as soon as it cools down a little bit, your order will be shipped.

Planting during hot weather:
1. For a mail-ordered plant follow planting instructions and never plant it from the box directly into the ground. Keep it in a pot the size of a root ball until the plant recovers from shipping stress, re-grows root system and adjusts from several days of darkness to a bright light. Move the pot gradually into brighter light, eventually into a spot of its permanent home. Do not over water the pot. Once you see new growth - the plant is ready to be transplanted into the ground.
2. Use only quality soil, containing lots of organic matter (compost, peat moss); soil conditioner is beneficial (pine bark). Plant it on a little hill, so growing point is elevated 1-1.5"above the rest of the surface.
3. Put a good layer of mulch around the plant, at least 1-2" thick, and not too close to the trunk as it may cause stem rot on contact.
4. Water daily with a garden hose until the plant shows active growth - then watering may be reduced every other day or less, or you may rely on sprinklers and/or rains.
5. If the sun is too hot, use shade cloth (or simply a white bed sheet) to cover the plant for the first few days (use bamboo sticks for support). It will help the plant to establish without heat stress. If leaves start dropping - this may be a sign of excessive light and heat. Shading is the way to reduce it.
6. Use SUNSHINE booster to help plants overcome heat stress, and shipping stress. It really works!

Remember that a plant has a very slow nature, unlike creatures from animal world. Give it some time and never rush it into new conditions. Go slowly and patiently - this is the only way to get a reward of a fruit crop or a beautiful flower.