Garden Blog - Top Tropicals
Date:
True love of Night Blooming Jasmine
By Onika Amell, tropical plant specialist
Q: I live in New Cumberland, West Virginia. I love the smell of Night-Blooming jasmine. Is it possible to grow it in the northern panhandle of West Virginia? Do I have to plant it every year or do I keep it in a pot and take it inside during the winter months?
A: Technically, Night Blooming Jasmine is not a true jasmine
(those plants belong to Oleaceae, or Olive family). Night Blooming Jasmine
belongs to the Solanaceae family, also known as the Nightshade or "Potato" family
of plants. Yes, this sweet fragrant flower called Jasmine for its perfume is
related to potatoes and tomatoes!
Night Blooming Jasmine - Cestrum nocturnum - is loved by many gardeners for its beautiful
fragrance at night. It is one of the most fragrant tropical evergreen shrubs
available. Cascading clusters of tiny, tubular pale yellow to white flowers open at
night and release a heavenly fragrance throughout the garden, especially on
warm summer evenings. The fragrance is much lighter during the day.
Night Blooming Jasmine is grown year-round in zones 9-11. It is at its
happiest in a sunny to a partially sunny spot in your garden in well-drained soil
but can be grown in cooler climates as a container or greenhouse plant.
You would absolutely be able to enjoy this plant during the warm months
in West Virginia, but it will most certainly not survive outside during the
winter. You will have to bring it inside. Take it outside again only once you
are confident there is no more possibility of frost. When grown indoors, be
sure to give it the sunniest, South facing window in your home. When grown in
a container, you will need to re-pot it every two to three years so it
doesn't become root-bound.
For those who are lucky to live in frost-free areas, in ideal growing
conditions outside, it can easily reach 8 feet with a spread of 5 feet. It has
a lovely informal look that can soften a more manicured garden. Add organic
matter to the planting hole when you plant to enrich the soil around the root
ball. Water well in the summer, but allow them to dry out a bit between
watering in the winter. Plant this Jasmine near pools, porches, doors, windows,
and walkways where its lovely fragrance can be enjoyed. The shrub is also an
excellent plant for privacy hedges and screens. When grown as a hedge, plant 3
feet apart.
Trim lightly after a bloom cycle to shape and then do a hard pruning in
fall or spring to control the size of this plant. Fertilize 3 times a year -
in spring, summer, and autumn - with a good quality granular fertilizer.
Recommended fertilizers:
Pink N Good Daily Plant Food - Flower Booster
Tropical Allure - Smart-Release Booster
Interesting facts:
Night-blooming jasmine is an excellent mosquito repellent. The powerful
scent of the flowers attracts moths and bats that feed on mosquitoes and
other small insects.
The flowers of the Night Blooming jasmine are widely used in India and
other countries of South Asia for perfumery, medicinal applications and in
religious ceremonies.
Limited time special offer:
Instant $5 off Night Blooming Jasmine
Date:
Plant of the Month: Golden Dewdrop - Duranta erecta
Stevie's Pick: what's in bloom?
Our exotic plant grower Steven Gowdy is featuring the most interesting plants he discovers and recommends today while working in TopTropicals greenhouses.
Duranta - Golden Dewdrop - is simply stunning with cascading flowers in
abundance. Either it has lavender, blue, or solid white flowers, it is a
sight to behold. The popular name Golden Dewdrop is inspired by the clusters of
bright orange-yellow berries that follow the flowers, in such quantities that
they often cause the slender branches to droop gracefully.
Duranta erecta blooms off and on all year and can be pruned to size as a
bush or a standard tree. If let go, it can grow up to 20 feet tall and wide.
Durantas are excellent butterfly and hummingbird attractors. They will
complement your tropical garden or a stand alone in your Southern landscape.
Great for providing a color contrast in the landscape, they are especially
well-suited as a bright-colored background or screening.
White
Golden Dewdrop has pure white flowers that appear in loose clusters, and
both berries and blossoms are often seen on a plant. This evergreen fast
growing shrub spreads and arches to 10 feet tall and wide and is great for live
hedges and covering fences and corners.
Variegated variety, also called Variegated Sky Flower, is grown for its summer flowers, and very showy
leaves that are dark green with bright white variegation and creamy-yellow
margins around the one inch long serrated leaves.. In the summer, cascading
clusters of blue tubular flowers appear followed by wonderfully contrasting
orange-yellow berries.
In mild climates, Durantas can be in flower nearly year round with flowers
and fruit appearing at the same time. It does best in full sun with frequent
deep watering and is pretty hardy, to about 20-25F. It is a good choice for
espaliers, as a small tree or large bush; all forms benefit from frequent
selective pruning. Prune back in late-winter to encourage a more compact shape
and strong flush of fresh spring foliage. Requires moderate watering in a
well-drained soil.
Date:
FEATURED BUTTERFLY PLANT:
Duranta variegata - Variegated Sky Flower
Variegated Sky Flower is grown for its summer flowers and ornamental fruit. This evergreen fast-growing shrub spreads and arches to 10 feet tall and wide and is great for live hedges and covering fences and corners. In the summer, cascading clusters of blue tubular flowers appear followed by wonderfully contrasting orange-yellow berries. This variegated form has creamy-yellow margins around the one inch long serrated leaves. In mild climates, this plant can be in flower nearly year round with flowers and fruit appearing at the same time. It does best in full sun with frequent deep watering and is hardy to about 20-25F. A good choice for espaliers, as a small tree or large bush; all forms benefit from frequent selective pruning. Flowers are very attractive to butterflies. Great for providing a color contrast in the landscape, and is especially well-suited as a bright-colored background or screening. Prune back in late winter to encourage a more compact shape and strong flush of fresh spring foliage. Requires moderate watering in a well-drained soil.
Date:
From Anna Banana: Shipping and planting during hot weather
Q: I received email notification that my order was delayed due to hot weather. Why? And do I need to do anything special if I plant when it is hot?
A: When plants are shipped via FedEx Ground, it is hot in the truck! According to our FedEx area manager information, if outside temperature is 100 degrees, inside the truck it can be 130! We don't want to put your plants through that much stress. We monitor the weather at destination, and as soon as it cools down a little bit, your order will be shipped.
Planting during
hot weather:
1. For a mail-ordered plant follow planting instructions and never
plant it from the box directly into the ground. Keep it in a pot the size of a
root ball until the plant recovers from shipping stress, re-grows root system
and adjusts from several days of darkness to a bright light. Move the pot
gradually into brighter light, eventually into a spot of its permanent home. Do
not over water the pot. Once you see new growth - the plant is ready to be
transplanted into the ground.
2. Use only quality soil, containing lots of organic matter (compost, peat
moss); soil conditioner is beneficial (pine bark). Plant it on a little hill,
so growing point is elevated 1-1.5" above the rest of the surface.
3. Put a good layer of mulch around the plant, at least 1-2" thick, and not
too close to the trunk as it may cause stem rot on contact.
4. Water daily with a garden hose until the plant shows active growth -
then watering may be reduced every other day or less, or you may rely on
sprinklers and/or rains.
5. If the sun is too hot, use shade cloth (or simply a white bed sheet) to
cover the plant for the first few days (use bamboo sticks for support). It
will help the plant to establish without heat stress. If leaves start dropping
- this may be a sign of excessive light and heat. Shading is the way to
reduce it.
6. Use SUNSHINE booster to help plants overcome heat stress, and shipping
stress. It really works!
Remember that a plant has a very slow nature, unlike creatures from animal world. Give it some time and never rush it into new conditions. Go slowly and patiently - this is the only way to get a reward of a fruit crop or a beautiful flower.
Date:
December Fest on Dec 10, mark your calendars!
Topic: Edible landscape. 10:00am - 2:00pm. Agenda:
Class @ 11:00am by Robert Riefer. How to keep pests off of maturing fruit.
Class @12:00pm Super foods by Zoe Merring. Benefits of Soursop, barbados cherry, goji, moringa. Benefits and recipes.
Discounts on all edibles
Prize giveaways at 12:00pm and 2:00pm (must be present to win)
20% off After-Cyber-Monday sale! Now that everybody is done with shopping for monitors and speakers, it is time to get some happy stuff! 20% off on all fruit trees, 1 day only! Enjoy your shopping and get the plants you always wanted at a low price!
Date:
Healthy Plant Food: Q&A from Mr Booster
Why my Sapodilla is not fruiting?
Q: I bought a Sapodilla tree from you several years ago, Silas Woods. I live in Houston area. The tree grows and produces blossoms for fruits, but then they just dry up and fall off. To-date, I have not gotten any fruits off the tree. Is there a reason for this? I really want a fruiting tree because Sapodilla is one of my favorite fruits. I have attached pictures of the tree. Please help.
A: Silas Woods is a free-flowering variety and in favorable conditions it should produce fruit almost year round, considering warm temperatures. The fact that the tree is producing flowers indicates that it is strong, overall healthy and ready for production, but for some reason these flowers don't set fruit. There may be several reasons for such behavior.
1) Too high temperature and too low humidity
In Houston area, humidity should be good in summer. However, if
temperatures stay above 90F for a long time, this may cause flower dry-n-drop.
Solution: try to move the potted tree into filtered light, or in a
spot where it does not get direct burning sun during the hottest hours of the
day (morning sun is the best)
2) Root bound.
Solution: check if the tree needs stepping up into a larger
container.
3) Lack of certain nutrients that are responsible for proper fruit
formation.
In particular, elements B (Boron), Mo (Molybdenum), and a few other
micro-elements (Fe - iron, Cu - Copper, etc.). This is most likely the cause of a
flower drop. This is very common reason for undeveloped fruit or lack of fruit
in container-grown fruit trees. When grown in the ground, plants can reach
out to all necessary elements in surrounding soil (considering soils are not
too poor on necessary elements). In a pot, a supply of nutrients can be
exhausted very quickly, so a quality fertilizer program is very important.
Fertilizer must include all necessary nutrients in easy accessible form, and a plant
must have their constant supply for proper development.
Solution: prescribe to your Sapodilla tree the following combination
of plant food:
- SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster. It will provide
well-balanced amounts of high absorption Nitrogen, as well as other macro-elements - to
provide enough energy to the tree, plus a combination of all necessary
micro-elements. It is safe to apply this fertilizer as frequent as with every
watering, including winter time.
- SUNSHINE-Honey - sugar booster. This supplement has a high content of
elements Mo and B - once the tree starts getting them on regular basis (a few
times a year, according to the label), it will change its habit dropping
flowers and/or premature fruit drop. As extra bonus, Sunshine Honey makes fruit
sweeter by bringing sugars from all over the plant and concentrating them into
fruit.
4) Lack of pollinating insects.
Solution: For most effective pollination, we always recommend to put
some pieces of fruit under the tree, apple peels, or even banana peel. Those
attract tiny beetles that are responsible for small flower pollination.
With winter time approaching, fruiting season is about to end, however, do not get discouraged and start the fertilizing program right away: this will bring up the plant into a healthy stage within a few months, and by next season it should be covered with fruit you like so much! Remember, Sunshine liquid fertilizers can be used year round, including winter, without a risk to burn roots or overdose, as long as you follow label instructions.
SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster from Garden Series, or Combo Total Feed Collection - all nutrients in just one bottle, for fruit trees and edibles.
Date:
URBAN TROPICAL GARDENING:
10 secrets of successful Container Mango growing on a
balcony.
Q: I live in Miami in apartment on a second floor, and I have a balcony with SE exposure. I wonder if I can grow a mango tree in a pot? Will it fruit for me? I recently moved to South Florida and I don't know much about tropical plants; but I tasted real fiberless mangos from someone's garden - it was so delicious and different from those in the grocery store. I wonder if I can have a fruiting tree on my balcony? And if yes, how do I plant and take care of it?
A:
Yes, you can! Here is what you need to do:
1) Temperature. You are lucky to live in Tropics,
keep it on a balcony year round.
2) Light. Position the pot in a spot with the most
sun exposure. Mango trees can take filtered light too, but
the less sun, the less fruit you will get.
3) Soil and Container. Use only
well drained potting mix. Step up the purchased
plant into next size container (3 gal into 7 gal, 7 gal
into 15 gal). When transplanting, make sure to keep growth
point (where roots meet the trunk) just at the top of the
soil. Covering base of the trunk with soil may kill the
plant.
4) Water. Water daily during hot season, but only
if top of soil gets dry. If it still moist, skip that day.
Mangoes (unlike
Avocados!) prefer to stay on a dry side.
5) Fertilizer. Use
balanced fertilizer once a month, 1 tsp per 1 gal of
soil. Do not fertilize during fruiting - this may cause
fruit cracks.
6) Microelements. Apply
SUNSHINE-Superfood once a month. This will help your
mango healthy, vigorous, and resistant to diseases. Use SUNSHINE-Honey to make your
fruit sweeter.
7) Insect control. Watch for scales and mealybugs,
clean with solution of soapy water + vegetable oil (may
need to repeat 2-3 times with 10 days interval), or with
systemic insecticide like imidacloprid only as needed (if
non-harsh treatment didn't help). Most Flea shampoo for
dogs contain that chemical, you may try that shampoo
solution.
8) Trimming. Once potted, do not remove leaves
that are discolored or have spots until new growth
appears. Dark dots on mango leaves, especially in humid
climate like Florida, may be signs of fungus. Treat with
fungicide according to label, and remove only badly
damaged leaves. Trim crown as needed after flowering and
fruiting (by Fall). Train into a small tree, and you may
remove some lower branches eventually.
9) Flower and fruit. Mangoes are winter bloomers
with bunches of tiny flowers coming in thousands. Many of
them set fruit (if pollinating insects present). Keep in
mind that young trees can only bare a few fruit. Normally
a tree will drop excessive fruit and keep only a few that
it can manage. To save the young tree some energy, remove
fruit if too many and leave only 2-3 for the first year.
It will pay you next year with more abundant crop.
10) Variety. Last but not least: Choose the right
variety for container culture! Pick from "condo" dwarf
varieties such as Icecream, Nam Doc Mai, Carrie, Cogshall, Julie, Fairchild, Pickering, Graham, Mallika, and a few others -
check out Mango Chart pdf
and full list of our Mango varieties.
Date:
Seeds germination in summer
Q: What is the best way to germinate seeds in summer? Should I keep trays indoors or put them outside?
A: Summer is the best growing season for plants, and for their propagation. Seed germination process of tropical plants usually benefits from warm, and even hot temperatures, so keeping pots with seeds outside in full or partial sun can be the best way. However some seeds may be more sensitive than others, or require slightly cooler or higher temperature for germination. These are a few tips that may help:
- For seed germination, use only well drained mixes, containing either peat moss or coconut fiber to retain moisture. Some succulents may require adding sand to the germination mix. You may also try our Professional Formula Seed Germination Mix.
- Large tropical seeds, like palms, or seeds of Fabaceae (Bean) family, can be grown in full sun. Their germination will benefit from higher temperatures (up to 90-95F). Make sure to keep soil moist. Cover them well, with 3/4 to 1 inch of soil.
- Fruit seeds (large size) should be germinated either in individual cells or small pots (3-4" diameter).
- Small to medium size seeds can be grown in so-called community pots. Seedlings can be separated after they establish their first roots.
- Tiny seeds should be planted closer to the surface, covered with only 1/4-1/8 inch of soil; some seeds require bright light for germination, so full sun will be a plus. Some small seeds like Ficus for example, prefer to be broadcasted on the surface, uncovered. Put containers with such seeds in bright shade, as you don't want the surface of the soil to dry out.
- Once your seeds sprouted, move them in filtered light - bright to medium shade depending on tenderness of the species. (Gingers prefer shade, while succulent sprouts can stay in brighter light). Regardless of water/sun needs of the species, all young sprouts and first leaves are sensitive to hot sun and may get burned or even killed. Once a baby plant has a few leaves and well-branched root system, you may start moving trays into a brighter light.
- Do not overwater young seedlings, keep soil slightly moist but not soggy.
Date:
Winter mulching in Southern landscapes
"My rule of green thumb for mulch is to double my initial estimate of bags needed, and add three. Then I'll only be two bags short." (Author unknown)
Q: What is the best time for mulching in Florida? What type of mulch do you recommend and how much should I use?
A:
Every gardener knows that spreading mulch in the garden
helps to protect the soil in general, prevents weeds from
growing, plus it has specific benefits during harsh winter
conditions. A layer of mulch will keep the soil insulated,
roots protected from possible freezing, so you'll also end
up with better results in spring by laying down mulch in
the cold months.
When? We lay mulch in our Florida garden right
now. It is cool so we work twice more efficient. After
rainy summer-fall season, most of mulch around plants had
broken down and in many areas soil is exposed: easy target
for weeds.
In general, in warm climates Fall and Winter mulching is
the most effective. Mulch creates an insulating barrier
between the soil and air, thereby protects plant roots
from rapid fluctuations in soil temperature.
How much? There is never too much mulch. Just make
sure to put it 2-3 inches away from the trunk to prevent
rotting and mold.
What kind? Different types of mulch can be used,
including wood chips, shredded leaves, straw and hay. Yes,
leaves and hay too! Remember all green parts of a plant (=
your leaves and grass) are full of Nitrogen so important
for plant vigor, it eventually will go back into the soil
as extra benefit. Unless you want to spend a fortune on a
fancy red or cypress mulch, you may use these natural
materials that are handy in every garden. After raking
leaves, pile them up and in couple weeks of drying and
breaking down leaves will become a perfect, soft mulch
that is best to use around fragile and herbaceous plants.
After mowing your lawn, save the cut grass and use the hay
as mulch. It always works the best in our garden, keeps
weeds away better than wood chips, and in spite of a
common belief that cut grass is full of weed seeds, we
never seen grass or weeds sprouting from that hay.
Happy mulching and stay warm!
Date:
Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster
How to keep bugs away naturally?
Q: I started moving my tropical plant collection indoors as it's getting colder... And all of a sudden, I noticed bugs on leaves! I know for sure all my plants were bug-free when I kept the pots outside in my lanai. What happened? And how can I keep them clean and healthy without using any harsh chemicals? I have many edibles and herbs that I use in my cooking and prefer to stay away from insecticides. Any suggestions?
A: It is very common when healthy looking plants, once moved
indoors for the winter, get insect infestations. The main reason is change of
environment that puts a plant into stress and makes it susceptible to parasites
and diseases. Just think about what a plant is missing, a whole combination
of necessary conditions that provided a good life:
- Bring light -> light level reduced, so beneficial UV spectrum is gone
- Air circulation -> less wind = more bugs thriving
- Warm temperature -> from upper 80's in summer to 70's in your AC room
- Air humidity -> although humid air is believed to be causing some issues
(for example fungus), however, reducing humidity overall puts a plant into
stress and makes it more vulnerable.
Many gardener prefer to avoid chemicals, especially when it comes to treating edible plants and indoor collections. The solution to your problems is - Organic Solution!
SUNSHINE NoBug - Natural Plant Protector.
Shampoo for Plants - for both indoors and garden
SUNSHINE NoBug - is a natural solution to keep your plants healthy and
bug-free without harsh chemicals. It is great for organic gardening and
edibles, eco-safe and non-toxic for humans and pets.
It kills, repels and prevents: spider-mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, aphids
and many more. No wait time required - spray and play! And it smells like
jasmine, forget stinky insecticides!
How does it work? Just look at these ingredients: Kosher Glycerine, Organic
Coconut Oil, Organic Palm Oil, Oat Protein, Organic Soap, Horticultural Oil,
Jasmine Oil, Water. Yum! But bugs hate it - they suffocate in it! This is
why your plants will have NO BUGS with NoBug, that's it!
Directions are simple:
- Mix 100 ml (3-4 oz) with 1 qt (32 oz) of water, or 500 ml (16 oz) in 1
gal of water - for larger applications
- Spray foliage to drip point, including underneath leaves.
- Repeat the treatment in 7 days.
- As a preventive care, spray leaves once a month to keep insects away.
- You may use a paper towel saturated with this solution to wipe the leaves
and remove residue from insects.
- Store at room temperature.
This poor Pepper plant was tossed into garbage can by a neighbor... it looked hopeless, infested with mealybugs. We saved it with NoBug ! In 2 days it perked up, and after 4 weeks its healthy and fruiting!















