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Index > Garden Blog

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Grow lights overview

By Benjamin Thorton. If you are an avid gardener living in a place where there are distinct seasons, then you probably know the feeling of dread that sets in when summer ends, because that means that soon you will have to harvest what has grown and put gardening on hold until next spring. However, there is a way how you can continue gardening even when it is cold and snowy outside, and that is to use grow lights to create an indoors garden. So if you want to find out more about what are grow lights and how to use them, then keep on reading...

For more information on grow lights, visit T5fixtures.com, a website that provides all the latest information on indoors gardening and lighting, that you can use to facilitate plant growth. Have this information as a guide to growing healthy, big-yielding plants without having to leave your house.

This week only, 20% OFF on all plants well suitable for indoor culture. Most tropical plants can be grown in containers and many of them indoors, but this selection is the best for beginners, check them out!

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Top Tropicals Video: Orchids 101. Part 1.

Part 1. What is an orchid? Orchids come in many shapes, sizes and colors. There are approximately between 25,000 species as well as over 250,000 of hybrids. It's one quarter of a million! Learn about these amazing plants from series of Orchid videos with our orchid expert Robert Riefer.
Check out this video: Top Tropicals Orchids 101. Part 1. What is an orchid?...

Stay updated with TopTropicals Videos by subscribing to our channel at YouTube.com/TopTropicals and get our latest video news of what's fruiting and blooming!

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Growing gardenias indoors

From Brian B, WI: Just wanted to share this photo of one of the plants my parents got from you 3 months ago.

Q: Gardenia taitensis is my favorite gardenia. I would need to keep it indoors under a grow light. Is it worth trying to grow indoors or is really difficult? If so, can you recommend and indoor plant that has big fragrance and blooms often?

A: When growing gardenias indoors, four most important factors must be taken in consideration:

  1. Bright light (Southern window and/or proper lighting set up)
  2. Proper watering (gardenias love water, but roots are very sensitive to excessive water)
  3. Rich organic soil with perfect drainage characteristics, regular feeding with high phosphate component and micro-elements containing Iron or Ferovit.
  4. Insect control (inspect underneath leaves regularly and apply systemic or on-contact treatments as needed). See Top Tropicals video on easy insect control.


We definitely recommend Gardenia taitensis (both single and double flower varieties) for indoor culture. Another species, Gardenia vietnamensis, is even easier in cultivation as it takes wide range of conditions and may tolerate slight overwatering (unlike other varieties which are more sensitive). These three mentioned gardenias are somewhat tolerant to low light conditions. Under a proper care, they will grow successfully even in bright shade, however for blooming they require as much light as you can provide. Properly adjusted growing light may be helpful. You may refer to our article about indoor plant lighting in our magazine Tropical Treasures, Issue # 15, or website page.

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Musings of a butterfly gardener about the milkweed bug

By Kevin Piotrowicz, FL. This spring I was excited! My milkweed was blooming and going to seed. I have 3 healthy clumps of it, each one with seed pods. I counted the seed pods at one time... 22... I had 22 seed pods on 3 plants! Could it be possible? Could I finally have reached the point that I had a sustainable amount of milkweed growing that would not be decimated by monarch caterpillars?

I was telling my friends, "My milkweed is growing great! I may be able to support a population of monarchs!" There were even a couple of them flying around the yard, landing on the milkweed, and frolicking amount the wax myrtle.

With great joy I watched 3 monarch caterpillars munch on my milkweed. The small plant colony even survived as the caterpillars pupated. Not only survived, it expanded! More shoots came out from the bases of the plants! More flowers! More seed pods! All was right with my garden. The zebra longwings and gulf fritillaries had new friends to play with... But what's this??? ... Continue reading...

Click here to see for full list of butterfly attractors currently available for sale, with 15% OFF! See also Complete Alphabetical list of plants that attract butterflies and hummingbirds (very long list).

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Leo Zodiac lucky plants

Leo - 7/23-8/22. Naturally, Leo is a FIRE sign ruled by the brilliant Sun. Leo's plants are usually large and gold or orange in color, have heart-shaped leaves or a radiating shape, or have association with victory (like the Bay Leaf). Leo loves this colorful and special spice, which is known for amplifying prosperity and abundance.

The part of the body ruled by Leo the Lion is the heart. Plants related to Leo are primarily associated with the cardiac system, but also with the spine, the thymus gland, and the eyes. They strengthen and tone the heart, regulate blood pressure, raise the spirits and have an uplifting effect. Keep in mind that all cardio-active medicinal herbs should be used only in consultation with a qualified professional.

Leo Zodiac lucky plants: Sunflower tree, Delonix, Hibiscus, Abutilon, Mahoe, Hawaiin Sunset Vine (Stictocardia), Campsis, Passion flower, Calendula, Mexican Flame Vine, Bay Leaf, Safflower, Mint, Rosemary, Ruda - Ruta graveolens, Marigolds, Sunflowers, Palm trees, Lemon and orange trees, Grapefruit, Dieffenbachia , Croton, Lemon Balm, Chamomile, Tarragon, Kaligottu (Stereospermum chelonoides), Bel Fruit, White Madaar, Peppers, Pineapple, Coconut, Anise, Heliotrope, Gingers, Lavender, Ashoka Tree, Dombeya, Jacquemontia, Lychee, Mulberry, Philodendrons, Macaranga, Anthuriums, Aphelandra, Orchid trees, Leonotis.

For other signs information, see full Plant Horoscope.

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RARE AFRICAN GINGERS

By John Banta. The rarity of African gingers is only matched by their beauty. The rarest, and most costly is the remarkable blue flowered, Siphonchilus beachystemon. It was discovered in Kenya in 1957 by an English tourist. It reminded her of the beautiful blue Himalayan poppy, Meconopsis grandis, she often admired at the Edinburgh Botanical Garden so she had her guide collect a plant or two that she took back to Edinburgh. The few plants available in horticulture today come from that original collection over 50 years ago. Fortunately there are about 15 species of Siphonchilus found in Africa and some of most outstanding ones make grand additions to our gardens. Listed in order of their vigor and availability they are:
Siphonochilus decorus. The large butter yellow flowers only last for a day but they continue to develop for weeks. In Zimbabwe it is considered one of the outstanding native plants. It is closely related to the next ginger and forms hybrids with it that are usually sterile. Read more...

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Growing fruit trees in containers

Will it fruit in a pot? YES! Many tropical fruit trees can be grown in a pot. We get many calls from customers in cooler climates asking if our tropical trees can grow and fruit in a pot. The answer is yes!

Several plants fruit well in pots. Blackberries and raspberries, barbados cherries, blueberries and many more start fruiting even in their 1 gallon containers. We are especially excited about our new Pixie grapes, which are heavily laden with grapes even at only a foot long!

While some plants are small and will fruit easily in a container, others are large trees. For the tree type fruits, we recommend growing only non-seedling plants for pot culture. We have cuttings, air layers and grafted plants that are great options. These have the ability to fruit right away, as they are the same age as the parent tree. Some horticulturists recommend removing the first year fruit to allow the plant to focus on growth and establishing. If the plant is being kept in a pot, this is not necessary.

We also have several dwarf varieties of fruit trees that will thrive in a pot. For avocados, we carry the Wurtz variety which is a dwarf tree... read more...

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Cancer Zodiac lucky plants

Cancer - 6/21-7/22. Cancer is a WATER sign and is ruled by the Moon. Cancer's plants generally have soft or Moon-shaped leaves, contain a lot of moisture, or are found near water. Oftentimes they have white, pale blue or pale yellow flowers. Cancer rules the stomach, diaphragm, and liver, so plants that aid digestion or affect the subconscious are associated with the sign of the Crab. Maternal Cancer also governs the breasts, the womb, and the ovaries. It rules all fluid secretions, including menstrual blood, fluids in the eye, and tears. The moon is often associated with conditions involving irregular periodicity: irregular menstruation and related moods, epilepsy, insomnia, hysteria. Lunar herbs tend to have white or yellow flowers and soft, juicy leaves. They often live in or near water. As they are so nurturing and warm, Cancer loves the homey smell of cinnamon. This sweet spice is good for gently heating things up; it also promotes movement and flow in life. Its familiar scent is soothing and calming for those who need a little retreat every now and again.

Cancer Zodiac lucky plants: Lilies, Eucomis, Magnolia, Nicotiana, Brugmansia, Dombeya, White flowers, Water lilies, Lotus, Maidenhair fern, Monstera, Cinnamon, Sage, Aloe, Lemon Balm, Bay leaf, Palasa - Butea monosperma, Acai, Mahogany, Mango, Banana, Apple, Pear, Geranium - Pelargonium, White roses, Solandra Chalice Vine, Butter Cup, Acalypha, Cornutia, Ruda, Oregano, Camphor plant, Grapes, Brunfelsia, Alocasia, Colocasia, Canna, Cyperus, Iris, Equisetum, Mangroves.

For other signs information, see full Plant Horoscope.

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Spathodea campanulata - African Tulip Tree

Q: I'm looking for a plant to replace a Torrey pine that was sadly cut down. The pine made the soil very acidic and it's already silty, sandy, and salty from being near a coastal marsh. I was thinking of a Kei Apple. However, there are only seeds available on the website and I'd prefer a sapling to get things started faster. Are there other trees you'd suggest for that environment?

A: Here are some fast growing salt tolerant trees that we can suggest, just to name a few: Bucida buceras - Florida Black Olive Tree, Callistemon citrinus - Weeping red Bottlebrush, Capparis cynophallophora - Jamaica Caper, Cassia fistula - Golden Shower Tree, Coccoloba uvifera - Sea Grape, Cordias, Delonix regia - Royal poinciana, Flamboyant, Elaeocarpus grandiflorus - Fairy Petticoats, Ficus lyrata - Fiddle-Leaf Ficus, Ficus religiosa - Bo-Tree, Peepal, Sacred Ficus, Mahoe, Peltophorum pterocarpum - Yellow Poinciana, Plumeria, Spathodea campanulata - African Tulip Tree (shown on right). See full list of salt tolerant plants.

15% on all mango trees! This weekend only. Offer is valid through Sunday, June 26. See all mango varieties available.

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How to get Clerodendrum to bloom?

Q: My Clerodendrum thomsoniae is not blooming. Actually it is not doing much of anything except putting out weak growth and small leaves. I purchased this plant May 26. 2015. Over the winter it was in a heated sunroom, at night 60 degrees, where it received some direct sun from the skylights. I reduced the water to prevent excessive leggy growth. I don't see how this plant can take full sun or even part sun. Temps here in Raleigh NC are 80-85 degrees and 65-70 at night, at the moment. I figured I would gradually expose it to more direct sun after being in a sunroom but the leaves burn. I had this plant in San Jose many years ago where it did quite well, blooming with no special treatment. So thought I'd give it a try again. Any advice?

A: Clerodendrums are all time favorites, appreciated by both gardeners and house plant collectors, for their showy, fragrant flowers and very easy culture. When growing Bleeding Heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), a few things should be taken in consideration:

  1. Temperature.Like most clerodendrums, this plant is semi-decidious outside of tropics and goes dormant in winter. It may lose some or all leaves if temperatures drop below 60-65F. It is not too cold sensitive, the plant can even take some light freeze. However when it is not hot and humid, it slows down metabolism. This means, water should be reduced during cooler months.
  2. Light. This plant can grow in both sun and shade like most clerodendrums - this is the beauty of this genus. However like with all flowering plants, more sun promotes more bloom. In shade, it will grow beautiful dark green foliage (leaves will be bigger than in the sun) on the account of flowering; in full sun leaves turn lighter color and sometimes may even get unattractive "faded" look, but flowering will be profuse. Also remember that Arizona full sun is different than New York full sun. Here in Florida, Bleeding Heart can take some full sun, but if exposed to sun all day long, leaves often get sun burn.
  3. Acclimation. Also called acclimatization - this is a process when a living organism adjusts to environment changes. Acclimation is always the case when growing plants indoors, even in a sun room. When Spring comes, and especially when we start taking outdoors those plants that have spent a few months indoors, light level increases dramatically, and this may cause leaf loss, and leaf burn. It is not necessarily a bad thing, it is just a mechanism of acclimation. Example: imagine yourself after living in a warm tropical climate, moving to a cold country. For a while your body will feel discomfort from "too much cold", while native residents may feel comfortable. We call it "My blood has thinned after living in Florida" - and this is a physiological fact. And vice versa, if you are a Northerner, moving to hot climate may be a challenge; it will take a while until you get used to hot and humid tropical summers. Same thing with plants: during cooler and darker period, their body (leaves and stems) becomes "winter type", with some serious chemical restructuring. Immediate environment change, like bright light and high temperature, causes a shock to those "winter cells", and as a defense mechanism, the plant gets rid of those useless "winter" leaves, replacing them with new "summer" leaves with completely new chemistry and metabolism.


From what you described, you know your plants, and you know what you are doing. You did everything right by reducing watering in winter and gradually moving the plant into brighter light. You still may see some stress, and this is normal. If you patiently keep changing environment slowly, eventually your plant will generate new healthy "summer" growth, it will also improve more vigorous root grown which will help the plant to establish better and to be stronger. You will see larger, thicker leaves, and definitely some flowers.