Macadamia Tree Care

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals with Smokey & Sunshine help

🌳 Growing Macadamia Tree

Macadamia is not a fragile tree, but it does have preferences. If you respect them from the beginning, the tree rewards you for decades.

• Start with the site. Drainage is everything. Macadamia will tolerate cool weather better if planted in a well-drained area. Avoid low spots where water sits after rain. If your soil is dense or clay-like, build a mound or improve drainage before planting.
• Choose full sun whenever possible for the best nut production.
• Planting location matters. A south or southeast exposure near a wall can create a warmer microclimate that buffers cold nights. Freeze plus wind is more damaging than temperature alone. Macadamia handles cold better when protected from winter wind.
• Dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, but no deeper than the root ball. Set the tree level with the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
• Water regularly during the first three months while the tree establishes roots.
• Fertilize lightly. Macadamia does not respond well to over-fertilizing. Macadamias prefer mild liquid fertilizers, SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta is ideal for it. You may also use controlled release Green Magic every 6 months, it is especially formulated for hot climate. To keep leaves healthy deep green without yellowing, micro elements must be applied on regular basis, we recommend to always have handy Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
• Young trees should be protected if temperatures drop below freezing. Once established, they become far more resilient.
• Harvest timing: Nuts mature 6-7 months after flowering. Husk splits naturally when ready. Fallen nuts should be collected quickly.
• Flower and Nut Drop: Many gardeners panic when they see flowers or small nuts drop, but Macadamia naturally sheds excess fruit. It does not mean failure; the tree simply keeps what it can afford to feed.
• Macadamia is relatively low-maintenance, but watch for squirrels and rats. They love the rich nuts as much as humans do, so be sure to collect fallen nuts quickly.
• Root Sensitivity: Macadamia roots dislike disturbance. Transplant carefully. Avoid root damage.
• Macadamia is not a fast-return crop. It begins producing a few years and increases gradually. But once mature, it becomes a steady, reliable part of your garden.

Learn more: Macadamia - Hard Sweet Nut and Hardy Tree

🌱 Growing Macadamia in a Pot

• Container size: Start large. A 15-25 gallon pot is ideal for long-term growth.
• Drainage: Critical. Use a container with multiple drainage holes.
• Soil mix: Use a high-quality, well-draining container mix. Avoid heavy garden soil. Top Tropicals Abundance soil-less mix is specially formulated for pot growing
• Light: Full sun is best. Strong light improves flowering and nut production.
• Watering: Water deeply, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again. Avoid constant saturation.
• Feed lightly and consistenly. SUNSHINE Boosters Robusta liquid fertilizer is safe to use with with every watering. During hot season you may add controlled release Green Magic every 6 months. It is essential to apply micro elements on Macadamias: Sunshine Superfood micro nutrients complex.
• Cold protection: If temperatures drop below freezing, move the container to a protected area such as a garage or greenhouse.
• Pruning: Prune lightly to control size and maintain airflow within the canopy.
• Expectations: Container trees may produce fewer nuts than in-ground trees, but they offer mobility and climate control.
• Smokey says: Container trees offer mobility and climate control so you never have to worry about a freeze!

✍️ More About Macadamia from Garden Blog

🚫 Common Mistakes When Growing Macadamia

• Planting in poorly drained soil:
  The most common mistake. Macadamia will decline quickly in heavy, waterlogged ground. If drainage is questionable, plant on a mound.
• Overwatering young trees:
  Newly planted trees need consistent moisture, not constant saturation. Wet roots lead to root problems.
• Over-fertilizing:
  Too much fertilizer causes weak growth and nutrient imbalance. Feed lightly and avoid heavy nitrogen applications.
• Planting too deep:
  The top of the root ball should sit level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Do not bury the trunk.
• Ignoring micronutrients:
  Macadamia is very prone to iron, zinc, and copper deficiencies. Yellowing leaves may signal a micronutrient issue. Applly Sunshine Superfood on regular basis.
• Expecting instant production:
  Macadamia takes time. Early years build structure. Patience is part of success.
• Skipping cold protection for young trees:
  Established trees are tougher, but young plants should be protected below freezing.

❓Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• Is Macadamia toxic to pets? While the nuts are a superfood for humans, they are toxic to dogs. If you have a dog that tends to forage in the garden, ensure you harvest fallen nuts promptly or fence the base of the tree during the drop season.
• Which varieties are best for the "Survivor" garden? Look for Macadamia integrifolia (smooth-shell) or hybrids like 'Beaumont' (M. tetraphylla x M. integrifolia). Hybrids often show slightly better cold tolerance and more consistent "home garden" production.
• How tall will my tree get? In the ground, an unpruned Macadamia can reach 20–30 feet. However, they respond very well to "heading back" (pruning the top) to keep them at a manageable 12–15 feet for easy harvesting.
• Do I need two trees for cross-pollination? Macadamias are self-fertile, meaning one tree will produce nuts. However, planting two varieties near each other often results in a significantly heavier "nut set" due to cross-pollination.
• Why are the leaves on my Macadamia prickly? Don't panic—this is normal! Some species, particularly M. tetraphylla, have serrated, holly-like leaves. This actually makes them a great "defensive" hedge against intruders or deer.
• When exactly should I harvest? The tree tells you when it's ready. Don't shake the tree; wait for the nuts to fall naturally. In Florida, this usually happens between August and November. If the green outer husk hasn't split yet, let them sit in a shaded, dry spot until they do.
• My tree has "clusters" of flowers but no nuts. What happened? Macadamias produce long racemes (flower spikes) with hundreds of tiny blooms. It is normal for 90% of these to fall off. The tree only keeps what it can afford to "feed." Boost your success by using a combination of Sunshine C-Cibus liquid fertilizer and SUNSHINE Superfood micro element supplement during the flowering stage to help the tree retain more fruit.
• Can I grow them from a nut I bought at the store? Unlikely. Commercial nuts are usually roasted or dried at high heat, killing the embryo. Even if a raw nut sprouts, it may take 10–12 years to fruit and the quality is a gamble. Buying a grafted tree saves you a decade of waiting.

We don’t just sell plants; we test them. The data from this February freeze proves that with the right selection and proper drainage, 'tropical' doesn’t have to mean 'fragile.' Don’t wait for the next cold front to find out what in your garden is vulnerable. It is time to replace those empty spots with proven survivors that offer both beauty and a premium harvest. If it can stand up to 25F in our fields, it’s ready for your backyard.

Coming in Part 2...

Smokey is already crunching the numbers on our next survivor, and Sunshine found another tree that stayed perfectly green in the wind. Stay tuned to see which fruit tree made the cut!

🎥 More Macadamia videos from our channel

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

❄️ The Hardiness Report: February 2026 ❄️

🐾 Smokey & Sunshine’s real-world survival data from our Sebring, Florida Research Gardens. Smokey analyzed the data. Sunshine just stayed happy. Here is what they found.

📊 Weather Data – February 1–6, 2026

Sebring, Florida – 132 years of recorded observations
This was not a light frost. It was a prolonged, windy, penetrating hard freeze.

• 🌡 Minimum temperature: 25F
• ❄️ Wind chill: 14F
• ⏳ Duration: 3 nights of 8–10 hour hard freeze
• ☀️ Daytime temperatures: around 50F for 7 days
• 🌀 Wind: sustained 20 mph, gusts 40–50 mph

While all our plants in pots were protected in greenhouses, our in-ground plantings faced the freeze outdoors. We covered what we could. Even so, some plants were damaged, some died, and some surprised us by surviving.

In the next few newsletters, we will share the real survivors - the plants that proved themselves in the ground, under real conditions. Smokey and Sunshine have been out in the fields assessing the damage from the February 1–6 freeze. While many plants struggled, the Macadamia proved to be a true standout. This is how we grow them to handle the tough years.

Why does this matter? Because we have gotten used to warm winters, and this freeze was a rude awakening. Not everyone lives in Miami. If you garden in places where a real cold event can happen, you have to be prepared - and you have to plant what can take it.

🌰 Macadamia: Freeze Tested and Standing

When temperatures dropped to 25F with wind chill near 14F, our established macadamia trees remained upright, green, and structurally intact. Leaves held. Branches stayed firm. No collapse, no panic.

That is not luck. That is macadamia hardiness.

Often considered a "tropical luxury nut," macadamia proved it can handle more than many gardeners expect. In USDA Zones 9b-11, with proper drainage and site selection, it is not just ornamental - it is a long-term food tree with real resilience.

In a winter that reminded us not to take warmth for granted, macadamia earned its place on the survivor list.

The nut itself is famous for its strength. The shell is among the hardest in the nut world, requiring serious pressure to crack. Inside, the kernel is creamy, buttery, rich, and deeply satisfying. High in monounsaturated fats and naturally low in sugar, macadamias have long been valued both for flavor and for nutrition.

The tree is equally impressive. An evergreen with tough leaves and elegant spring flowers, it matures into a productive, manageable canopy. Nuts develop slowly over six to seven months. Production begins in a few years and increases steadily as the tree matures. Plant it once, and it can reward you for decades.

Cold will come again. It always does. The question is not whether winter will test your garden. The question is whether your trees are ready. Macadamia proved it is. If you are building a garden that feeds you for decades, this is a tree worth planting.

🛒 Add Macadamia Tree to your garden

⭐️ Choosing the Right Variety of Jasmine Sambac

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals

One of the reasons Jasmine Sambac is so fascinating is that it does not come in just one form. Each variety has its own personality.

If you want a compact patio plant, Arabian Nights or Little Duke are excellent choices. They stay tidy, bloom generously, and are easy to manage in containers.

If you prefer elegant, elongated petals and a refined look, Belle of India is a favorite. It can be grown as a small bush or trained lightly as a vine.

For those who love full, carnation-like double flowers, Grand Duke of Tuscany and Grand Duke Supreme are classic selections. They are vigorous and make impressive shrubs in warm climates.

If you need a stronger climber for fences or hedges, Maid of Orleans performs beautifully in full sun while Mysore Mulli prefers semi-shade.

Collectors often enjoy rare forms like Mali Chat or newer hybrids such as Gundu Malli, which combine traits from different lines.

How to Grow Jasmine Sambac Successfully

Sambac is not difficult, but it responds best to consistency.

Light: Full sun produces the most flowers. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade is acceptable. Indoors, place it in the brightest window available.

Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix such as Sunshine Abundance. Sambac does not like heavy, constantly wet soil.

Water: Water thoroughly, then allow the top layer to dry slightly before watering again. Reduce watering during cooler months.

Pruning: Light trimming after a bloom cycle encourages branching. More branches mean more flower buds.

Feeding: Sambac is a heavy bloomer, and fragrance takes energy. During active growth, feed regularly with a balanced fertilizer that supports flowering such as Green Magic (controlled release every 6 months) or liquid Sunshine Boosters Pikake (formulated especially for fragrant flowers) - with every watering. I prefer formulas slightly higher in potassium to encourage stronger bud formation and richer bloom cycles. Consistent feeding during warm months makes a visible difference in both flower count and intensity of scent.

With proper care, Jasmine Sambac will reward you not just with flowers, but with perfume that changes the atmosphere of your entire garden.

❓Frequently Asked Questions About Jasmine Sambac

• Does Jasmine Sambac need full sun?
  It flowers best in full sun. In very hot climates, light afternoon shade is acceptable. Indoors, give it the brightest window possible.
• Can I grow it in a pot?
  Yes. Sambac performs beautifully in containers. Many gardeners prefer pots because it is easier to control size and move during cold weather.
• How often does it bloom?
  With proper light and feeding, it blooms in cycles throughout the warm season. Consistency in care makes flowering more reliable.
• Why is my plant not blooming?
  The most common reasons are insufficient light or irregular feeding. Increase light first, then review your fertilizing routine.
• Is it difficult to grow indoors?
  Not if you provide strong light and good air circulation. Compact varieties adapt especially well.
• Is it frost tolerant?
  No. Jasmine Sambac is tropical. Protect it from temperatures below 40F and bring it indoors before frost.

🌸 Year of the Horse Special – Jasmine Bonus

Celebrate 2026 with the fragrance of Jasmine plants. For a limited time, enjoy special savings when you grow one of the most wanted perfume plants in cultivation.

🛒 Explore varieties of Sambac

🔥 Blazing into the 2026 with hot jasmines

Sunshine: I'm blazing into the 2026 Year of the Horse! Call me Mister Fahrenheit. Don't stop me now! 'Cause I'm having a good time — I'm a shooting star, leaping through the sky like a tiger, defying the laws of gravity!
Smokey: It's jasmine, Tiger. A shrub. Not Wembley. Calm down.

💮 2026 Year of the Horse - and the Plant I Trust Most

By Tatiana Anderson, Horticulture Expert at Top Tropicals

Every new year carries its own energy.

2026 is the Year of the Horse - a year of movement, fire, momentum, and bold decisions. It is not a quiet year. It pushes us forward.

When fellow gardeners ask me what to grow in a year like this, my answer is simple:
Grow something that balances strength with grace.

For me, that plant is Jasmine Sambac.

In many cultures, Sambac represents devotion, purity, and deep affection. In the Philippines it is the national flower - Sampaguita - woven into garlands for weddings and sacred ceremonies. In Hawaii, it becomes leis - a symbol of welcome and connection - Pikake. In India, it perfumes temples and homes.

This is not just a fragrant shrub.
It is a plant tied to love, loyalty, and continuity.

The Horse runs forward.
Jasmine anchors the heart.

In a fiery year like 2026, I believe we need both.

And that is why I always return to Jasminum sambac.

🛒 Explore Jasmine varieties

✅ Why Jasmine Sambac?

Over the years I have grown thousands of plants, but very few have the staying power of Jasmine Sambac.

It is not just fragrant. It is intensely, unmistakably fragrant. One open flower can perfume an entire patio. In the evening, the scent becomes deeper and richer.

But what makes Sambac truly special is its adaptability.

It can grow as a compact patio shrub, a flowering hedge, or a climbing vine. It performs beautifully in containers. It tolerates both full sun and partial shade. The more light you give it, the more flowers it rewards you with.

And unlike many tropicals, Sambac does not bloom just once. With proper care, it flowers in cycles throughout the warm season.

For gardeners, that combination is rare: beauty, perfume, flexibility, and repeat bloom.

That is why it has remained one of the most wanted fragrant plants in cultivation.

✍️ More About Jasmines from Blog

🛒 Explore Jasmine plants

🍭 From Vine to Bean: A Practical Guide

How to Grow Vanilla: quick how-to

Vanilla is not complicated, but it does have preferences. Start with a pot and regular, well-draining mix. It does not need anything exotic. Give it:

• Bright, indirect light
• Warm temperatures
• Good humidity
• Air movement

Most importantly, give it something solid to climb. A wooden trellis, a log, or a burlap-covered board works well. The surface should be porous so the aerial roots can grip.

As it grows, guide the vine gently. You can prune it to control size. Vanilla is slow to mature. That is normal.

The Bloom Secret

Vanilla does not bloom just because it looks healthy. It blooms when it feels secure.

This is a climbing orchid. It must attach firmly to a solid, porous support such as a wood log, trellis, or burlap-covered board. When the aerial roots grip and the plant reaches maturity, flowering becomes possible.

Once the flowers appear, they usually need to be hand pollinated to produce pods. Each flower stays open for only a short time, so timing matters.

How to pollinate vanilla: In this video, we show you exactly how to pollinate vanilla step by step

❓Vanilla care: quick FAQ

• Does Vanilla planifolia really produce vanilla beans?
  Yes. Vanilla planifolia is the commercial source of vanilla. After flowering, it can form long green pods (vanilla beans). The aroma develops later during curing.
• What is the secret to getting vanilla to bloom?
  Let it climb. Vanilla is a climbing orchid and usually will not bloom until its aerial roots attach firmly to a solid, porous support like a wood log, trellis, or burlap-covered board.
• Do I need to pollinate vanilla flowers?
  Yes. In most home growing conditions, vanilla flowers must be hand pollinated to produce pods. Each flower is open for only a short time, so timing matters.
• Can I grow vanilla indoors?
  Yes, if you can provide bright, indirect light, warmth, humidity, and a support to climb. A sunny room with filtered light and a trellis or log can work well.
• What should I use for support?
  Use a sturdy trellis, a wood log, or a burlap-covered board. The key is a porous surface that aerial roots can grip. Avoid chemically treated wood. Check out this very unusual way to grow Vanilla Orchid over a wall.
• What potting mix should I use for Vanilla plant?
  Start in a pot with a regular, well-draining potting mix such as Sunshine Abundance. As the plant matures, it relies more on its support and aerial roots than the soil.
• What fertilizer should I use?
  Sunshine Boosters Orchidasm is formulated specifically for orchids and will work perfecty for Vanilla orchid as well.
• How big will it get?
  As big as you let it. Train it and prune it. Vanilla grows according to the structure and space you provide.
• How long until it flowers?
  Typically a few years. Vanilla is a long-term project, but it is very rewarding once established.

For Collectors and Enthusiasts:

We also offer Vanilla dilloniana, a rare Florida native species with distinctive flowers.

One remarkable specimen of this species, grown by our friend Robert Riefer, became so vigorous over many years that it outgrew a 100 gallon container and was eventually moved into a 250 gallon pool on wheels.

The plants we offer are propagated from that very specimen:

That kind of growth reflects deliberate cultivation and ideal conditions - not something that happens unintentionally.

Vanilla grows according to the space and structure you provide.

For gardeners focused on producing real vanilla beans for the kitchen, Vanilla planifolia remains the right place to start.

✍️ More About Vanilla Orchids from Blog

🎁 Shop Vanilla Orchids