Date: 19 Jul 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

How to grow Soursop in a pot

Q: Is it possible to grow soursop in a large pot for life?

A: Soursop, or Guanabana - Annona muricata - is actually one of those tropicals fruit trees that can be easily cultivated in a container. Most plants of genus Annona have compact nature, and these fruit trees usually start production at a young age, as early as 3 years from seed. Annona muricata seedlings take a little longer to fruit, this is why we offer grafted trees, which can start producing right away.
We have a very interesting article about growing Soursop in an apartment. The article was written by an indoor gardener who lives in a very small apartment in Moscow, Russia. He grew this tree from seed and after years of cultivation fun, he finally got several large delicious fruit! It is an amazing story. We have it published in our Tropical Treasures magazine, download the whole issue #7, get a hard copy, or you may download PDF file of the single article.

Recommended fertilizers and supplements:

Fruit Festival Plant Food - Super Crop Booster
Mango-Food - Smart Release Fruit Tree Booster
SUNSHINE-Honey - sugar booster

Date: 14 Jul 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Dwarf and Condo mangoes - easy mangoes

Q: We leave in zone 6a, could you tell us what is the list of different types of mango plants that could be planted indoor and that they can bear fruits?

A:There is a large group of mangoes called "Condo Mango" - they literally can be grown in your apartment! Those are dwarf varieties that can remain compact in containers with minimal pruning and successfully bear fruit providing bright light and proper care, including plant food.

The best dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties are: Carrie, Cogshall, Cushman, Fairchild, Graham, Ice Cream, Julie, Mallika, Nam Doc Mai, Pickering, Irwin, Jahangir, Juliette, Lancetilla, Little Gem, Manilita, Sia Tong, Torbert, Pim Seng Mun, Super Julie.

They produce juicy, fiberless sweet fruit. Julie is also a very popular dwarf variety, however, it is very cold sensitive and not the easiest to grow. If you get a 3 gal size mango, step it up to 7 gal when the plant reaches 4 ft; you may use a bigger container as the root system grows, up to 15 gal or even 25 gal, space permitting. Trim the tree under 6-8 ft after production season is over (summer-fall).

See more information on growing condo mangoes

RECOMMENDED FERTILIZERS:

Mango-Food - Smart Release Fruit Tree Booster
Fruit Festival Plant Food - Super Crop Booster
For sweeter fruit, use SUNSHINE-Honey - sugar booster

Date: 9 Jul 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Growing desert roses

Q: I purchased a Desert Rose and planted it in Adenium mix. I keep it in full sun with once a week watering assuming this is a desert plant that likes lots of sun. Some leaves turned yellow and now I am not sure should I move it into shade or need to water more? Or maybe fertilize with something?

A: Desert Rose - Adenium, unlike cacti and other succulents, prefers filtered light. It can grow in full sun but leaves look healthier in light shade. Watering must be very moderate, however don't let soil harden like a rock: water again right after the soil gets dry. We suggest to use special Adenium Mix. Cactus mix may work well, as well as regular potting mix, in which case it is recommended to add a bit of limestone (we simply put sea shells on top of the pot - it looks very pretty!) - because adeniums prefer slightly alkaline soil (while most of tropical plants like acidic soils). If leaves turn yellow, this may be a sign of underwatering. Use water soluable fertilizer with high phosphate as foliage spray, and only on healthy plants, according to label dosage. It helps both caudex growth and flowering. Make sure to avoid fertilizer contact with a caudex.

Read more about growing Adeniums:
What you need for successful growing Adeniums
Growing Exotic Adeniums

Date: 4 Jun 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Plants for South Texas and other hot states

Q: Pretty much adore last newsletter. Haven't been buying because our weather here in deep south Texas is so bad it is stunting and killing even the Tamaulipan Scrub! Do you have a cure for that? :) I have every expectation the new grafted Plumeria I purchased from you last year will bloom soon. One of my favorite plants. Thanks again and keep up the good works.

A: Yes, there is a "cure" - using biostimulants that improve drought- and heat- resistance (SUNSHINE boosters), plus the right plant selection. In fact, there is a large number of tropical rare plants that can be successfully grown in hot climates like yours. One of our partners lives in hot and dry Arizona area and has an amazing tropical garden that includes many fruit trees (Mango, Persimmons, Pomegranates, Loquats, etc). Here you can see a few pics from his garden.
Your choice is absolutely right about plumerias. Other easy plants would be Desert roses - Adeniums, and Fancy Euphorbia millii - all these come in so many varieties of colors and bloom throughout most of the year. Our special recommendations for you would be also:

Bougainvillea Dwarf Pixie
Jasmine sambac
Calliandra selloi Pink Lilian
Dracaena marginata Tricolor - Colorama, Money Tree
Hamelia patens Lime Sizzler - Variegated Fire Bush
Jatropha berlandieri - Buddah Belly
Pedilanthus tithymaloides - Devils Backbone
Trachelospermum asiaticum Mandaianum - Dwarf Confederate Jasmine

See full list of more plants that are suitable for hot and dry landscapes.

Apply fertilizers, miscroelements, and plant stimulants for improving heat tolerance

Date: 30 May 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Triple Sec Mango

By Onika Amell, tropical plant specialist

Q: I live in Mesa, Arizona. I am considering purchasing two of you Triple Sec Mango trees. Can you please give me some information on this variety and how to grow it successfully here in hot and arid Arizona, if at all?

A: Triple Sec Mango is a new name for the superior variety Seacrest. The aroma of this fruit resembles Triple Sec - an orange liqueur. It's a juicy, mid-season variety that has good disease resistance.
Mango has pretty good heat and drought tolerance. It loves sun, but there are a lot of factors to consider when growing Mango in your area.
Check your soil. Soil quality is always first and foremost: when you live in an area of Arizona with hardpan (extremely compacted desert soil) or caliche (layers of soil cemented by calcium carbonate) you will have to learn how to deal with such soil types. Amend the soil as needed.
The best time to plant is spring or fall to give your Mango a chance to get established before the really intense Summer heat starts. Alternatively, protect the tree with a shade cloth. Tender, new growth will not stand a chance unprotected, especially newly planted and/or young trees.
Mangoes are tropical and sensitive to frost and freeze damage. Young trees especially will also need winter protection when temperatures go near or below freezing. Always plant trees in a location where they will be protected from cold wind. Consider staking your newly planted Mango trees for the first year. It's never a bad idea to even stake during periods of high winds.
Make sure your planting site has very good drainage. Always use a good quality mulch around your tree as it helps to trap moisture, keeping the ground and the roots beneath it cool. Keep mulch a couple of inches from the trunk of the tree. Avoid a location that gets full day sun. Morning sun, afternoon shade is ideal. Give regular watering until the tree is established. Once established, water only when the soil feels dry.
Fertilizer with a Mango-Food. A foliar spray of micronutrient solution is always recommended during the active growing period. Use plant stimulants and microelements to improve cold hardiness and vigor.

See more info on growing mango in hot climate and container grown mangoes in Arizona.

Date: 30 May 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Selecting the right jasmine

Q: Would you please help me select the right jasmine? I want to find a jasmine that smells like lily of the valley or honeysuckle or roses, not the one that smells like gardenia. I'm in Missouri, zone 6, so I want a jasmine for my deck for the summer, so I want it to bloom this season.

A: There are 3 major types of tropical flower fragrances - Sweet, Fresh, and Fruity (including Lemony). Below are the most interesting fragrant tropical flowers, excluding Gardenias (which are sweet type). These are all same-year bloomers, so you can enjoy the fragrance this year assuming proper care and bloom booster feeding.

* - The fastest growers that can be treated as annuals. Others can be grown in a pot and brought inside for winter, and be enjoyed every year.

Synergy of SUNSHINE, biostimulants, and macro-micro

Q: I've heard that plants grow better and bigger with SUNSHINE boosters and when using Myco-Mix instead of regular soil mix. Do they work like fertilizers? If I use a Myco-mix, do I still need a fertilizer?

A: SUNSHINE boosters are not fertilizers, they are natural plant hormones, or biostimulants, as well as Myco-Mix which is a naturally occurring compound or microbes. Biostimulants are becoming increasingly attractive to folks interested in sustainable agriculture, and very popular for plant growth or pest resistance. A plant biostimulant is not a fertilizer because it provides no nutritional value to the plants. But, it can promote greater nutrient and water use efficiency, increase resistance to pests and diseases, reduce abiotic stresses, and in turn, lead to plant growth and health.

To answer your question, you can not replace regular fertilizers (NPK) and micro-elements with plant boosters and stimulants. However, fertilizers and microelements will work more efficiently when used in combination with biostimulants. Together they create a synergy, so plants use the most of fertilizer's potential, and will grow a lot better, faster, and healthier.

4 components for the best growing results

1. SUNSHINE boosters. They are a must during the juvenile stage of plant development - seedlings and cuttings. They are especially important for recovery of weak or stressed plants (boosting their immune system).
2. SuperFood microelements
3. NPK fertilizers. Select from water-soluble and smart-release types and make sure do not exceed the recommended concentration. Lower dose and more frequent use is always better for a plant.
4. Specialized soilless mixes: Myco-Mix (with biostimulant Mycorrhiza) for exclusive growing projects and special/unique plants, Professional potting mix for potted plants, and Propagation mix for seeds and cuttings.

Date: 2 May 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

How to propagate plants from cuttings. Top (Tropicals) secrets.

Q: After pruning my jasmine, I have so many branches and I don't have a heart to through them away, can I use them to make more plants? Please tell me what size cuttings and do I need to remove leaves? Should I just stick them in the ground? Will they root? I don't know if you will be willing to share your secrets?

A: We are always happy to know that you grow more plants, and make our World better! These are some useful tips for the propagation of tropical plants using cuttings:

- Cuttings and leaves. Use cuttings 2-5" long. Strip leaves from the bottom. Cut larger leaves in half to reduce evaporation.
- Soak cuttings for 15-30 min in SUNSHINE solution.
- Mix. Use special well-drained mix with lots of soil conditioner: we have a special professional propagation mix for cuttings.
- Mist. Put community pots or trays with cuttings in mist, or if you don't have mist - cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse.
- Shade. Keep propagation pots in bright shade and never allow direct sun rays.
- Rooting hormone: yes, use it if you have it. Not only it promotes root formation but also prevents from fungus so the cuttings won't rot. We use Dip-N-Grow.
- Rooting and food. Check in 2-3 weeks for roots. Once you see the little roots, begin fertilizing with a special Baby-Plant Food and make sure never exceed recommended doze otherwise you may kill the cuttings.
- Establishing. Once roots start growing, plant in 4" pots in a well-drained potting mix and watch the beauty grow! Gradually move to the full sun only when little plants establish and start new growth.

If you are lucky to make more rare plants than you can use, contact us, we will buy them from you or trade for your dream plants! In fact, one of our customers from many years ago started selling us baby plants that he propagated from our plants, and now has a successful business (Karma Nursery); we buy a lot of plants from him every month!

For more ideas on tropical plant propagation, see also:
- Secrets of turtle tank propagation
- 5 secrets of propagation

Date: 23 Apr 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

Fruit tree size and production

Q: I am interested in a Strawberry Tree... does this tree produce fruit while still small or do I have to wait until it is large before it produces? Should I fertilize it so it produces sooner? I ask because my garden is not large and I prefer to keep my fruit growing trees in a smaller size. Also, how big is the fruit and does it have a seed?

A: Strawberry Tree, Muntingia Calabura, is one of those fascinating fruit trees that starts flowering and fruiting in small size. We have plants growing in 1 gal containers that already have flowers. This tree is nearly year-round producer providing warm conditions. It is a fast grower, although a compact tree when mature, and can be trimmed to desirable size without affecting production.
Muntingia fruit is one of our favorites. It is super sweet and juicy, and the seeds are tiny small, not bigger than the strawberry seeds, so you don't have to spit them out. The fruit size normally about 1/2 inch, but we have a tree in our garden that produces almost cherry-size fruit! See picture above. The secret is, good watering and using fruit booster - SUNSHINE honey micro-element supplement. We also fertilize our fruit trees using Fruit Festival and Mango-Food fertilizers.

Date: 20 Apr 2019 Top Tropicals Newsletter

More about Mulberries

Customer comment on our Mulberry column in the previous newsletter:

...I planted a Himalayan mulberry, Morus macroura, about six years ago. For several maddening years, it shot only very long, un-branching tentacles out there, and it resisted my efforts to force some branching by pruning. It would send another long, reaching shoot from the tip of the pruned branch, with NO laterals. Several times, it did this. Finally, two years ago, it broke buds that looked like they meant it all along those long branches, and in one season, it fluffed out. The next season it elaborated on this, acting much more like a proper tree. The fruit is fabulous, three or more inches long, very sweet, with a rich berry flavor that’s more raspberry than mulberry. I guess it just needed more time. My understanding is that mulberries don’t really like to be pruned, but it needed to happen in this case, along a driveway, so I reigned it in, and now it’s a treasure. Be patient.
Cheers, your admirer, C

Check out our Mulberry trees.

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