I acquired this rare and freaky aroid, (Typhonium roxburghii) when my wife
Suzie and I were living in So. California in the early 1990's... When I first
saw this plant (growing in a few pots of bamboo, along with other weeds), it
had perhaps the most unusual flowers of anything I had ever seen...
Q: I just ordered a mango tree. I live in Southern California and
was wondering if you have any tips on how to acclimate the mango to our
climate. I know it is coming from hot and humid Florida to hot and dry Southern
California and don't want to kill it because of the differences in climate.
A: Mangos in fact prefer dry conditions rather then humid. It may
be perfect conditions for a mango tree at your place. Plant your tree in a
pot size of the root ball; give it ample water and then let the soil surface
slightly dry before watering again. Keep the plant in bright shade and
gradually move into full sun. Once the tree is recovered from shipping stress, you
may plant it in the ground and make sure to protect from freezing temperatures
in winter. Use Mango Food for quick establishing and better fruit production. More to
read:
Mango boosters How to grow Mango in hot climates Growing Mango in Arizona.
Customer comment on our Mulberry column in the previous newsletter:
...I planted a Himalayan mulberry, Morus macroura, about six years ago.
For several maddening years, it shot only very long, un-branching tentacles
out there, and it resisted my efforts to force some branching by pruning. It
would send another long, reaching shoot from the tip of the pruned branch,
with NO laterals. Several times, it did this. Finally, two years ago, it broke
buds that looked like they meant it all along those long branches, and in one
season, it fluffed out. The next season it elaborated on this, acting much
more like a proper tree. The fruit is fabulous, three or more inches long, very
sweet, with a rich berry flavor that’s more raspberry than mulberry. I
guess it just needed more time. My understanding is that mulberries don’t
really like to be pruned, but it needed to happen in this case, along a driveway,
so I reigned it in, and now it’s a treasure. Be patient.
Cheers, your admirer, C
Q: When I visited Hawaii I saw their everblooming bougainvilles,
flowering non-stop! How come our bougainvilles in Florida are not flowering
as much? Is there any special secret to make them bloom?
A: Bougainvilleas prefer drier climate and especially drier
summers. Florida summers are rainy and humid. The steaming greenhouse conditions
are favorable for most tropical plants (except desert plants like most cacti).
Bougainvilleas also grow vigorously in Florida heat and frequent rains, but
most cultivars prefer dryer conditions for profuse flowering. These are a few
tips that can help you grow happy Bougainvilleas and enjoy their showy
flowers even in humid climates:
- In Florida, Bougainvilleas bloom mostly in Winter. If you are a
snowbird, this plant is definitely for you!
- Choose sunny, dry, and elevated location for Bougainvilleas, never a
low spot and never a shade spot. Give it as many hours of sun as possible.
- Use only well-draining soil. Usually, sandy soils work well when
mixed with some compost. If your soil is too heavy, add soil conditioners like
perlite, bark, sand.
- Take advantage of cultivars that are well adapted to humid climates:
Dwarf
Everblooming Pixie, Thornless B. arborea.
- Remember Bougainvilleas are the easiest and the most rewarding potted
plants.
- Use bloom boosters along with well-balanced slow release plant food.
We recommend these: Pink-N-Good flower booster and smart-release granulated Tropical Allure.
- Do not overwater and keep the plant on a dry side.
Q: What is the difference between Pakistani and Australian
Mulberry plants? Would one be better suited for South Florida backyard? Can one be
maintained/pruned to be a tall shrub vs a large tree? Which one has the
sweetest fruit? Thank you for the previous plants we've purchased from you.
They're all doing great.!
A: These two varieties are very similar indeed.
Both fruit are very large. Var. Pakistani fruit is a little longer than var. Australia and the tree is a more vigorous grower, but they both are
very sweet, even before the fruit fully ripen. Both trees are a good choice and
start fruiting at a young age.
We've had Australia in the ground in our garden for 4 years by now and
for some reason, it has been very slow growing which is normally not the case
with Mulberries. Maybe it is not fully happy with FL humid conditions.
There are two Mulberry varieties that can be maintained as bushes: Issai
and Dwarf
Everbearing. However, even vigorous Mulberry trees respond well to
pruning and can be kept compact for easy harvesting. Just make sure to prune before
the flowering season starts; here in S Florida Mulberries start flowering in
March, and fruit start ripening during April-May.
The Great Green Wall is an African-led movement with an epic ambition to
grow a 7775km (4831 miles) natural wonder of the world across the entire
width of Africa.
A decade in and roughly 15% underway, the initiative is already
bringing life back to Africa’s degraded landscapes at an unprecedented scale,
providing food security, jobs and a reason to stay for the millions who live
along its path.
The Wall promises to be a compelling solution to the many urgent threats
not only facing the African Continent, but the global community as a whole -
notably climate change, drought, famine, conflict, and migration.
Once complete, the Great Green Wall will be the largest living structure on
the planet, 3 times the size of the Great Barrier Reef... Continue reading...
You don't have to live in Sahara to make the difference.
To keep our Planet green - start planting now!
Q: I've just recently moved to Florida from North Carolina. I
don't know much about tropical plants. Can you perhaps suggest an easy and
pretty flowering plant for a beginner which I can plant around my garden pond for
a tropical feeling?
A: For adding that tropical look to your garden, few plants beat
beautiful ginger! Alpinia purpurata, the Dwarf Red Cone Ginger with its bright red floral
spikes and lush, lance-shaped foliage is no exception. This striking
perennial will add a tropical effect to your garden that will definitely take your
breath away.
The Dwarf Red Cone grows between 3 and 4 feet tall and blooms 8-9
months of the year! The blooms will hold on the plant for up to 3 weeks! It makes
a very attractive and distinctive backdrop for other plants.
Red Cone Ginger likes partial shade and moist, humid conditions, but
will tolerate full sun. It is fast growing, easy to grow and resistant to
disease, heat, and insects. The plant is a wonderful accent in a garden and works
well as a focal point specimen, show-stopping when planted around garden
ponds or near entryways. This ginger also works very well in containers and
planters. Either in mass plantings or smaller groups, all gingers add tropical flair which never disappoints.
In addition, the beautiful flower spikes make for great, long-lasting
cut flowers and is an interesting addition to bouquets.
An added bonus? Dwarf Red Ginger is super easy to propagate. If stems
are cut at the base and placed in water, they will generally root within a few
weeks. Eventually, you can make a whole flowering hedge just from one
plant!
Who does not like a plant that is non-fussy and not only beautiful but
easy to grow?
Dwarf
Red Ginger is more than just a pretty face!
A word from the owner... ...When I first started growing tropical fruit trees, I noticed that
Lychee just can't be grown from seed, period. The seed germinates readily, a
little happy seedling grows like crazy... but only for the first couple weeks.
Then it stops. Then it shrinks. Then it dies.
My teacher, tropical fruit tree expert Murray Corman (Garden of Delights), made fun of me for growing Lychee
from seed, and explained his sarcasm with two words - "Need Mycorrhiza!" It
appears that in Nature, Lychee seedlings can only grow around its mother plant
which has this magic plant-friendly fungus around its roots! The only way to
succeed with some seedlings is using this amazing Nature symbiosis... Check
out Mycorrhiza - and try it, works 100% in all stubborn cases!
Myco Mix is an amazing underground secret to a better garden! This
professional growing medium with Mycorrhiza is a must for establishing plants,
recovering weak plants, and for transplanting applications, including seedlings and
cuttings...Learn more...
Q: I live in northwestern Washington state. I was wondering if I
can grow a Sapodilla tree indoors in a container? Are they self-fertile, and
which variety do you think would do best in a large container?
A: A: All Sapodillas are self-fertile. They can be successfully
grown in pots due to their slow growth rate and compact nature. The most
important requirement for successful growing and fruiting is a bright light, other
than that it is a very undemanding plant and is not fussy about watering.
The best variety for potting culture is Silas Woods which is a dwarf kind. This variety is the most profuse
producer, flowering and fruiting nearly year round providing bright light and
warmth. Although the fruit are smaller than other varieties and average 3-4"
size.
Sapodillas require regular fertilizer applications for good production.
We recommend Fruit Festival slow release fertilizer for the best results.
The name of this cool unusual tree comes from the shape of the thorns
which do indeed resemble the horns of a bull! The tree has a strong, symbiotic
relationship with a species of an ant, Pseudomyrmex sphaerocephala for
which it is the obligate habitat. The ants act as caretakers for the tree,
and clear the ground and keep it free of any other plants and even prune
surrounding branches of other trees that threaten to outshade the acacia. Without
the protection of the ant colony, the acacia tree would fall vulnerable to
chewing insects such as beetles or caterpillars, and surrounding trees and
shrubs would quickly outcompete the acacia without the maintenance work of the
ants to keep the tree safe.