Growing Champaka in Virginia

Q: I purchased a Magnolia champaca 1 gallon a few years ago. It is still growing as I bring it into my greenhouse in the winter. I live in VA. This spring I planted it in the ground hoping it might bloom which it did not. Will it survive our fairly mild winters with several freezing days with some special attention? What would you do?

A: Magnolia champaca is a tropical tree and won't survive winter in VA. It can not take hard freeze. Your only option is, to keep it in a pot and bring inside. If the temperature inside your greenhouse is too low, this may affect the plant's ability to flower. For example, if it stays 35-40F for a whole month - although it is not a hard freeze and the plant may survive, but the duration of the cold period is more critical than the low temperature itself. Champaka can survive a few hours even at upper 20's, but not many days with cool temperatures. The temperature in winter should be maintained at least above 55F during day time (the higher the better) and at least above 45F at night.
If the tree has grown too big, you may trim it. If the root ball is too large, roots can be trimmed too (similar way like they do with bonsai) before repotting. However, trimming must be done either during warm season and active growth, or in Spring, when the tree starts waking up and promotes new growth.
To encourage flowering, start fertilizing your Champaka with a liquid bloom booster - SUNSHINE Pikake - Fragrant Flower Booster. It can be used year round including winter months, and it is safe to apply with every watering. This way you will provide to the tree enough energy for the next flowering season, so flowers can be expected in late Spring - Summer.

Read more about greenhouse growing: Greenhouse in Virginia.

Tahitian Gardenia

Q: I am interested in your Tahitian Gardenia and I would love to try and grow this plant in a large container/fabric pot. The soil here where I live is terrible as it's hard rock, clay, and sand! So I'm not sure if amending the soil would help to plant in the ground? Can you tell me if this will do okay in a container or best in ground? I live here in Las Vegas, NV (zone 9a). Any information would be great to help me make a this decision, I love the selection of cool tropical plants you offer! Also my daughter does Tahitian/Polynesian dance and this would be a cool "topping on the cake" if she could have a live Tiare flower in her performances.

A: Tahitian Gardenia will be doing best if grown in container in your area. In its natural habitat, it grows full sun but also it enjoys mild weather conditions and high air humidity. All gardenias prefer acidic soils. In your area, if planted in the ground, it may be exposed to some harsh conditions: too high temperatures, too hot sun, dry air, and as you mentioned - heavy clay and sandy soil. You can enjoy this plant grown in container, which can be moved as needed away from too much sun during summer months. Use well-drained potting mix. Use plastic pot, do not use fabric or clay pots - soil will dry out too quickly.
Also remember to fertilize this plant on regular basis with a liquid fertilizer SUNSHINE Pikake - Fragrant Flower Booster.
Grow gardenia in full sun or semi-shade during the hottest months. You may spray it with pure water if the air too dry and hot. Enjoy your Tropical Beauty and good luck!

Jasmine for a fence

In the photo: Jasmine Maid of Orleans

Q:We are looking for a jasmine variety without thorns that we can grow on a wire fence...

A: All true jasmines (Jasminum spp.) are thornless. So you are safe to get anyone you like. The most vigorous, fast growing jasmines that grow into a vine, are:
Jasminum dichotomum
Jasminum pubescens
Jasminum nitidum
Jasminum officinale
Jasminum sambac Maid of Orleans - the most fragrant!

In the photos: Jasminum nitidum (Star Jasmine)

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

Healthy Heliconia Leaves?

Q: I purchased a heliconia from you a couple months ago. The new growth seems to be doing fairly well, however some of the larger leaves are discoloring around the edges then drying up. It's potted in a large pot with potting soil with 3 holes in the bottom to help with drainage in partial sun under a Royal Palm facing northwest. I'm here in Ft Myers. I was previously watering it every other day with your rapid growth fertilizer 1 tbsp per gallon but I have cut that back to once or twice a week. Please let me know your thoughts.

A: Heliconias and Gingers tend to develop dry leaves if grown in pots, especially ceramic or clay pots, because soil in such pots dries out too fast. These dry leaves are not caused by fertilizer, and you can see lots of new healthy green growth. The plant overall seem to be healthy. Continue fertilizing it with liquid Sunshine Robusta that is great for all wide-leaf tropical species, promotes green, lush foliage, and do not use any additional dry fertilizers!
Another suggestion, try to move the plant in more shady spot. Right now it sits in pretty bright light, this may be OK for established plants in the ground, but potted heliconias are very sensitive to hot sun. They get leaf burn easily.

Leonotis leonurus:
Lion cub's tails looking out of a tall grass...

by Alex Butova, the Witch of Herbs and Cats

...When you drive along the savannah and veld of South Africa, you can see a groups of lion's cubs running among the tall savannah grass. Their ears look out of the grass as bright cheerful spots. The tips of their tails swing by the wind with the grass where the cubs hide. Why so many Lion's cubs? What a surprise! However, these are not the cubs of the King of Animals, these are the tips of pretty flowers endemic to this region...
...A curious thing, the plant continues growing through the flower! This creates a multi-level appearance...
...Leonotis has a long history of medicinal use by traditional African tribes... This plant has a history of being used for its psychoactive properties which have been compared to a mild version of the Cannabis plant... Modern herbal medicine mainly uses this plant for a calming tea infusion...

CONTINUE READING >>

In the photo: Mr B stays calm with his Lion's Ears...

Cold hardy tropical fruit trees for Zone 9

Q: Can you suggest tropical fruit that can be grown (cold hardy) in Zone 9?

A: There are quite a few tropical/subtropical trees that will grow well in zone 9. Our favorites are: Figs - very cold hardy and drought tolerant.
Loquats - grafted trees that start fruiting right away, reliable producers.
Tropical Mulberry - very fast growing trees that can take freeze, heavy producers.
Macadamia - these trees are of a compact nature, very easy to grow and start producing nuts right away.
Many different varieties of Eugenias - tropical cherries - all-time favorites. Another tropical cherry - Malpighia, or Barbados cherry - starts fruiting in small size under one food tall! Great for containers.
Tropical (Low Chill) Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums. See full list of low-chill, relatively cold hardy fruit trees.
And of course - Bananas!

Don't forget to fertilize your fruit trees to improve their cold hardiness!

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

Mango leaves and fertilizing

Q: I received a mango tree we ordered last week (I am in California) and am trying to make sure we take care of it properly. I noticed the corners of some leaves have began drying out. I wanted to see if there was anything else we should be doing or if it is something normal. Overall the tree looks good and the leaves have perked up, but I noticed the dry tips on a handful of leaves. Any help is appreciated! I have not fertilized in the pot yet or applied the mango sunshine booster.

A:Your mango tree looks pretty healthy, and these dry leaf tips may be caused by overall shipping stress. You have dry air in California, and temperatures may be getting up, this may cause additional drying effect. You may start fertilizing with a liquid fertilizer, it will help the plant to get stronger and grow faster - then heat and dry air won't be a problem as soon as the plant becomes better established and hopefully go into a bigger pot soon, or in the ground. Make sure to provide regular water if you have hot dry summers.

Healthy Plants: Q&A from Mr Booster

Why my Avocado is not flowering?

Q: I have 5 avocados. Three of your cold hardy varieties and two others that have all flowered and set fruit in the past. The last two years including this year, not a single one of them has put out any flowers. I am getting lots of new growth like one would expect on a tree too young to flower. The last two years have been very mild with out any damaging frost where in previous years they lost all their leaves due to frost yet started putting out flowers once winter was over. I am confused because they have all flowered and set fruit previous years. Any ideas would be appreciated.

A: From information you provided, and considering the trees get lots of full sun and cold was not an issue, the only explanation is - lack of nutrients. Here is an example.
Very common situation: you get a small 2-3 ft Avocado or Mango tree in 3 gal pot (or even smaller) from a nursery, full of flowers, and sometimes even a small fruit. You bring it home, plant it in the ground or a bigger pot, it looks happy and grows like crazy. Then next year - oops, no fruit, sometimes not even flowers. What happened?
When the tree lived in a nursery, it was provided with all necessary nutrients through the injector systems (continuous feed); or some nurseries may use top dress smart release on regular schedule. Regardless of fertilizer type, professional grower's set up delivers plant food non-stop, on regular basis, with balanced formulas. Plants are not only growing fast but also ready to produce, since nutrients are always available for a full growth cycle.
When you plant a tree in the ground (or larger pot), conditions change. They may be beneficial for the plant: lots of room for roots to establish, hence lots of vegetative growth. Even if you planted it using good quality fertile soil, this soil may contain mostly nutrients responsible for vegetative growth (branches and leaves). Chances are, your soil may be rich in Nitrogen (good for green growth), but poor in other elements responsible for flowering and fruiting (Phosphorous, Potassium, and many important micro-elements such as Molybdenum, Boron, Iron, etc.). Besides, existing soil gets exhausted quickly, and within a year a two, if you don't add fertilizer, flowering and fruiting may be reduced or even stopped. This is why fertilizing program is very important for fruit trees that are expected to bring a crop soon.

We recommend:

- SUNSHINE C-Cibus - Crop Nutrition Booster - balanced food for fruit trees
- SUNSHINE-Honey - sugar booster - promotes more efficient blossoming and pollination, makes flowers bigger and reduces bud drop
- SUNSHINE SuperFood - for improving fruit trees production

Also keep in mind that some fruit trees have a habit of "skipping" a year and may either produce less or not produce at all every other year. In any case, balanced nutrition program can help to fix this "bad habit".