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These bizarre hybrids appeared on the market a few years ago. At first, pictures looked confusing and unreal. When our first Black adeniums went into bloom, we were disappointed with red buds popped up on the plants... However after the dark red flowers opened, they started to darken as they aged, and some varieties turned so dark in color that it was close to black or brown. Some varieties have only black contour around red flower. So, black flower is actually a very old flower! So be, patient and let it age as an old good vine. See picture of darkening process.
Adeniums have many spectacular hybrids. The basic culture is very similar to orchids. A small pot with excellent drainage is a must. Adeniums do not like both over-watering or drying-out. There is a little secret of how to create a weird shape of the base: lift the plant a bit every time you re-pot the plant, so that the upper part of roots will be a little exposed. The plant will form more roots that will go down. To make your plant develop a large swollen base/trunk, you'll need a good quality fertilizer. Fertilizer requirement for swelling up trunks is also used to increase flowering. It shouldn't be too high in nitrogen, the middle number should be the highest. Never apply fertilizer directly on roots and do not liquid feed when a plant is thirsty: always water first slightly to avoid root burn and leaf drop. Do not wet leaves. Adeniums need lots of light for heavy flowering. Most hybrids and species start blooming in the spring when the conditions are warm and days get longer, and continue blooming through the fall and winter in warmer climates. Adeniums like a neutral to hard water. Acidic water tends to sour the soil too fast and may cause root rot. Water plants preferably in the early morning, and allow them to drink up throughout the day. Watering can be done daily to every few days. Never allow your plants to sit in a saucer of water, but don't let them to dry out too often - this causes adeniums to go into early dormancy.
Aeschynanthus longicaulis, commonly referred to as Zebra Basket Vine, is a unique, semi-evergreen, perennial, flowering vine native to Southeast Asia. It is an ornamental climber with the eye-catching glossy green foliage, marked with an unmistakable maroon central venation pattern which gives the plant its distinct zebra-like stripe. This tropical vine is perfect to be grown in most climates as an evergreen wall cover or climber on overhead structures.
While growing in its native tropical climates, its preferred position is semi-shade, such as on side of a building or under a tree. However, in cooler zones, the Aeschynanthus longicaulis can successfully be grown in pots and moved indoors in winter, providing they are kept warm. The caring and growing requirements of Aeschynanthus longicaulis are quite simple and easy to follow. It requires regular water in a well drained soil and should be fed with a balanced liquid fertilizer a few times during the growing season.
The Aeschynanthus longicaulis performs best in USDA Hardiness Zone 9 to 11. Given the right conditions and growing requirements, it will attractively bloom in summer with unusual small, tubular flowers in attractive shades of pink, yellow and orange. Combining its attractive foliage and interesting blooms, it's not difficult to see why this vine can make a lovely addition to virtually any garden.
Overall, Aeschynanthus longicaulis offers an unusual color combination and eye-pleasing ornamental foliage and flowers, making it a great container plant for patios and terraces and an ideal choice for planting along walls and trellises. The Zebra Basket Plant, if provided with sufficient indirect sunlight and regular water, will surely make a wonderful show because of its stunning foliage and extraordinary bloom.
Afzelia xylocarpa is easy to grow and is best suited for full sun and moderate water. The trees can tolerate drought, freezing temperatures, and a wide range of soil types. This species of tree requires moist, well-drained soil to thrive. It is not suitable for growing in pots in cold regions. The tree can grow in USDA hardiness Zone 9-11, and proper location and fertilization will keep it healthy and vibrant.
Afzelia xylocarpa is an unusual tree with its combination of broadleaf leaves and conifer-like bark with peeling stripes. The irregularly shaped leaves that turn yellow, yellow-green or yellow-gold in autumn make it an attractive choice for landscape design. Its large clusters of yellow-orange, seedpods up to 8 inches long are a striking contrast to the green of the tree.
The tree is traditionally used as an ethnomedical plant. The seed was traditionally used to treat diarrhea, dysentery, eye infections, and toothaches. In Cambodia, Afzelia xylocarpa (locally known as Beng) are planted as shading trees due to its wide-ranging branches. At roadsides and waterways, the tree provides a good wind barrier and protection from water-driven soil erosion.
Parrotlily is a small, evergreen to sparsely deciduous shrub, usually 2-5 ft tall and 3-4 ft wide. A woody perennial that is grown commercially as a root ball plant and is known for its bright unusual color and as a long blooming perennials. Parrotlily loves regular water, when established tolerates more moderate water. In cold regions, grow parrotlily in a pot and bring it in during winter months to prevent it from freezing. It should be grown in USDA Zones 7 -10 and is mature cold hardy in temperatures at least to the lower 30s F for a short time.
Parrotlily is attractive to bees and butterflies and hummingbirds, making it an ideal plant to attract pollinators to the garden. The unusual color and long blooming season of these flowers make them popular in cut flower arrangements. Plantings of parrotlily in mass can be quite striking.
When growing in containers, as houseplants, or in colder climates, make sure to provide containers that are 18 to 24 inches in diameter with adequate drainage. The parrotlily prefers slightly acidic, fertile soil and full sun. Keep the soil evenly moist and water the plant from above to prevent water from getting into the center of the plant and rotting the root system. Keep the soil temperature warm, but not hot. Add a layer of mulch to help keep the soil moist and regulate temperature during the colder months. Fertilize parrotlilies, depending on the soil pH, once or twice a year with a slow- release granular fertilizer. Prune any dead or damaged branches anytime and always deadhead spent flowers to encourage new blooms.
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